over flow or drilled? mr x

kynekke

Member
IMO they work exactly the same with one big asthetic difference. Overflows are a big box in your tank that allows water to enter a suctioned tube down to your sump... the drilled tank looks nicer because it is less hardware in your display tank.
 

michaeltx

Moderator
also there is less likely that the intank boxes will overflow. hang on overflows if not setup properly and maintained can overflow or break the syphon if your not careful.
Mike
 

prime311

Active Member
All the drilled tank setups I've seen take up more DT space and distract more from the DT then the HOB overflows. Personally, I'd love to have drilled holes for my return, but I prefer the HOB overflows for aesthetic purposes.
 

scopus tang

Active Member
Not me man! I hate HOB overflows ~ I've mopped up too many messes! Maybe its just cause I'm too stupid to set them up right, or because the older ones I used (5 years ago) just weren't any good, and I'm sure they've probably improved them since then,
. In fact, I even find myself considering trying some DIY ones based on what I've seen on this site ~ but I'm still waiting to see the outcome of that experiment. I'm going to take a lot of convincing.
 

prime311

Active Member
The only overflows I use are the utube style that have a split rear chamber to prevent siphon breaks. Set up properly, the only way one could spill is if the piping got clogged.
 

prime311

Active Member
For the siphon it uses a U-shaped tube rather then a wall of water(like CPR overflows use), the wall shaped ones tend to lose siphon and generally require an additional pump just to keep air out.
The rear chamber(the part that drains down to your sump) is divided into 2 sections. The first section is where the utube goes and the water level in this section is much higher then the second. This way if power goes out and water is no longer being returned to your DT this section at least will have a high level of water ensuring that your utube will not get any air in it which would break the siphon and cause spillage once the power goes back on. The second section where the hole that drains down to your sump is.
Lifereef makes these types of overflows so if you look for a picture of one you could see what I mean.
 
Originally Posted by prime311
http:///forum/post/2559088
For the siphon it uses a U-shaped tube rather then a wall of water(like CPR overflows use), the wall shaped ones tend to lose siphon and generally require an additional pump just to keep air out.
The rear chamber(the part that drains down to your sump) is divided into 2 sections. The first section is where the utube goes and the water level in this section is much higher then the second. This way if power goes out and water is no longer being returned to your DT this section at least will have a high level of water ensuring that your utube will not get any air in it which would break the siphon and cause spillage once the power goes back on. The second section where the hole that drains down to your sump is.
Lifereef makes these types of overflows so if you look for a picture of one you could see what I mean.

Thats kind of scary to think that it could over flow, Is there a way of not using a sump and having a happy healthy fish and reef tank?
 

prime311

Active Member
The chance of my setup overflowing is extremely small. Minute enough I'm really not worried about it. On top of that, on the rare chance that lightning did strike me, I don't run so much water in the return section of my sump to cause too much of a mess. You're just as likely of running into a problem with a leak in your plumbing or filtering system w/o a sump as with one.
 

veni vidi vici

Active Member
Another option is a drilled tank without built in overflow .Just a bulkhead with a 90 and strainer up near the top and another hole for supply and or closed loop if you so choose.Over the top supply will work as well.
 
Originally Posted by Veni Vidi Vici
http:///forum/post/2559400
Another option is a drilled tank without built in overflow .Just a bulkhead with a 90 and strainer up near the top and another hole for supply and or closed loop if you so choose.Over the top supply will work as well.

sorry im new to this , english or pics please
 

mr_x

Active Member
corallover- i'd just do like veni vidi vici said. basically, go to your LFS, and look how they have their tanks plumbed together. you'll see the elbow with the strainer in the back. that's how i have my frag tank set up.
i woudl not recomment hang-on overflows. they are about 95% effective- this leaves a 5% margin for error. and error spells big trouble when you are dealing with a tank full of water, running expensive pumps, and carpets.....
 
Originally Posted by Mr_X
http:///forum/post/2559540
corallover- i'd just do like veni vidi vici said. basically, go to your LFS, and look how they have their tanks plumbed together. you'll see the elbow with the strainer in the back. that's how i have my frag tank set up.
i woudl not recomment hang-on overflows. they are about 95% effective- this leaves a 5% margin for error. and error spells big trouble when you are dealing with a tank full of water, running expensive pumps, and carpets.....
ok thank you !
 

prime311

Active Member
I was curious about just putting a bulkhead on a hole and letting it be the overflow, but I can't seem to find anyone that does it that way including the 2 big LFS in my area so I had figured that there is some drawback to it that just wasn't obvious to me. Even the Reef Readies I could find all have a durso standpipe. While I do think that would be the prettiest setup, it is just as likely to overflow as my setup, because if the pipe down clogs the return pump will still overflow your tank. I have confidence in my setup though and dual overflows for a larger margin of error.
 

prime311

Active Member
I still don't get it. Why do people even use durso standpipes if they can just pull water out with a small bulkhead? Its like no impact on the DT visual I would think that would be by far the most common method.
Confused
 

scopus tang

Active Member
Originally Posted by prime311
http:///forum/post/2559739
I still don't get it. Why do people even use durso standpipes if they can just pull water out with a small bulkhead? Its like no impact on the DT visual I would think that would be by far the most common method.
Confused

The issue here is that using the bulkhead means the tank has to be drilled; either by the owner or by a glass shop. There is a risk of breakage when the tank is drilled by either (personally I let the glass shop do it). So many people don't want to go to the trouble or take the risk.
 

prime311

Active Member
I guess I meant why do people do internal overflows if they can just leak the water right down the bulkhead?
 
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