P04 and silicates
- Thread starter col
- Start date
barracuda
Active Member
Phosphates and Silicates are not the same. they are 2 different elements, but both responsible for unwanted microalgae and cyanobacteria blooms. For removing silicates, phosphates should be removed first.
RO/DI wate with 1.0ppm phoshates??? Don't even think to buy this kind of water. This water will mess your tank.
RO/DI wate with 1.0ppm phoshates??? Don't even think to buy this kind of water. This water will mess your tank.
fbihunter
Member
I agree with Barracuda. If you water contains any phospates consider getting from another source.
If this is not a option then consider purchaseing a phospate/silica remover sponge or media.
I know that seachem make this (as do others ) but this seems to be the more readily available at LFS.
If this is not a option then consider purchaseing a phospate/silica remover sponge or media.
I know that seachem make this (as do others ) but this seems to be the more readily available at LFS.
col
Active Member
Thanx for info
I didn't want to buy from LFS because of the levels.
I was thinking of RO unit but I only need 5G every 2 weeks or so. It looks like you cannot turn them off for more than 2 - 3 days without damaging membrane.
So, what I have been doing is using Rowaphos to get tap water down before adding to tank. I was wondering about how to remove silicates at same time.
Po4 in my FO tank is currently .25
I didn't want to buy from LFS because of the levels.
I was thinking of RO unit but I only need 5G every 2 weeks or so. It looks like you cannot turn them off for more than 2 - 3 days without damaging membrane.
So, what I have been doing is using Rowaphos to get tap water down before adding to tank. I was wondering about how to remove silicates at same time.
Po4 in my FO tank is currently .25
barracuda
Active Member
hi again,
don't forget that tap water contains not only phosphates and silicates. There are a lot of bad "stuff" in there. Like nitrates, heavy metals, etc. As well tap water is very hard. probably harder than it should be in the tank. Of course, tap water parameters are vary from city to city, state to state.
If i was you, i would considering to buy RO unit, maybe small one. Like i have Kent Marine's bare Bones 20. It's 20 GPD unit.
don't forget that tap water contains not only phosphates and silicates. There are a lot of bad "stuff" in there. Like nitrates, heavy metals, etc. As well tap water is very hard. probably harder than it should be in the tank. Of course, tap water parameters are vary from city to city, state to state.
If i was you, i would considering to buy RO unit, maybe small one. Like i have Kent Marine's bare Bones 20. It's 20 GPD unit.
jim672
Member
col,
Aquarium Pharmacuticals sells a portable unit that I bought. The unit runs $30 to $40 depending on where you get it. The media refills will DI around 50 to 100 gallons of water and cost between $15 and $20 to replace.
I use about 5 gallons a week and this one is good for me.
Jim
Aquarium Pharmacuticals sells a portable unit that I bought. The unit runs $30 to $40 depending on where you get it. The media refills will DI around 50 to 100 gallons of water and cost between $15 and $20 to replace.
I use about 5 gallons a week and this one is good for me.
Jim
barracuda
Active Member
Originally posted by col
Baracuda
I know what you mean about tapwater, but I'm stuck on what to do.
I only need 5G per 2 weeks, so what do I do with the rest of the RO water - just throw it away? 20 GPD = 280G per 2 weeks - I only need 5G.
20gpd doesn't mean that unit should remain On all the time. You turn on when you want water and after you've done just turn it OFF.
dindi
Member
Well you are all wrong, I have the same prob, checked my phophates and slicates with my water BEFORE I used it zero on both, the same high readings in my 2 year old tank, too many phospates but zero silicates, well that means too much food for your tank, more than it can process so I'm told on this site