snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
To my knowledge and experience, none of that will work.
Why cant it fit in the return chamber? Pics?
Why cant it fit in the return chamber? Pics?
PEZenfuego's 4 gallon Pico Tank Diary
- Thread starter pezenfuego
- Start date
pezenfuego
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary/20#post_3495719
To my knowledge and experience, none of that will work.
Why cant it fit in the return chamber? Pics?
If you refer to the second picture of my last picture post, you will see the return area. It has the L shaped pvc fitting. I can think of no way to make it fit in there.
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary/20#post_3495719
To my knowledge and experience, none of that will work.
Why cant it fit in the return chamber? Pics?
If you refer to the second picture of my last picture post, you will see the return area. It has the L shaped pvc fitting. I can think of no way to make it fit in there.
florida joe
Well-Known Member
Something to remember, you are starting out with a 4g tank anything you add from LR, heater to filtration equipment is displacing water volume also any submerged electrical equipment is a potential heat generating source
pezenfuego
Active Member
Okay, I came up with something much less sketchy. How does this look? If this is good, then I need to buy a different heater (one that is much smaller). I will put this heater in the intake portion of the tank, but the sensor/temp monitor for it will be in the DT. I might have to ditch the media basket, but that's okay because I have bags and plan on getting chaeto. I have been reading reviews of pH meters and have decided that I'd rather go with test kits for now.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Try it and see is all I can say... I hope it works. If it is set slightly above that baffle, then yes, it should work. If it is below that last baffle - then no, it will not work.
pezenfuego
Active Member
Fantastic. If it doesn't work I will have to create a new housing, which sucks, but I am confident I can make this work. I think I will fill it with tap water to test things out so that I have a better idea. I can then experiment more and figure out what I have to do. Thanks for the advice, Snake. I'll get to work and let you know.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Lol, no problem man - just making observations.
Joe is also right, you really want to limit the list of equipment that you need and get down to the basics. Since this is such a small tank, skimmers aren't needed - and in fact, you probably won't even need a powerhead as long as your return pump is pushing an adequate amount of water. The LEDs are going to help a lot as well... but since it is a small water volume, you will have to keep a constant eye on temp, salinity and pH.
When you start adding corals, you will either need to test your calcium, alkalinity and magnesium on an every other day basis and then manually dose or test them and have an autodoser do it for you.
You don't have to have all of the fancy-shmancy pieces of equipment to be successful in this hobby by any means. But, I like gadgets that make my life easier, as I am sure you do as well.
Anyways, keep up the good work and looking forward to seeing some results.
Joe is also right, you really want to limit the list of equipment that you need and get down to the basics. Since this is such a small tank, skimmers aren't needed - and in fact, you probably won't even need a powerhead as long as your return pump is pushing an adequate amount of water. The LEDs are going to help a lot as well... but since it is a small water volume, you will have to keep a constant eye on temp, salinity and pH.
When you start adding corals, you will either need to test your calcium, alkalinity and magnesium on an every other day basis and then manually dose or test them and have an autodoser do it for you.
You don't have to have all of the fancy-shmancy pieces of equipment to be successful in this hobby by any means. But, I like gadgets that make my life easier, as I am sure you do as well.
Anyways, keep up the good work and looking forward to seeing some results.
pezenfuego
Active Member
Update: So far everything seems to be working beautifully. The only problem I have is that the heater takes up way too much space. I really want to use that space for filtration. The heater is 50 watts, which is overkill. I will get a smaller one when I can and everything should be fine. I realize that I have a lot of equipment, but most of it does not add heat to the system. The heater controller and ATO add only a small sensor and no heat. The light is LED and won't add much heat, and there are no powerheads. The powerhead I bought is for mixing water. I will work on this much more this weekend, but over the next few days I just want to monitor the water's level and temperature to see how well this equipment will work (and also make sure that it is leak-proof). The sensitivity on this ATO is ridiculous (which is great), but it will need to be turned off before I touch anything in the tank. If I so much as use the magfloat, it turns on. Granted, forcing it to add an unnecessary half-teaspoon of freshwater won't hurt anything.
Also, I was not planning on dosing anything. I am only keeping softies and as such water changes should replace everything I need if they are frequent enough. However, I might add these things when I come into money (or christmas).
Also, I was not planning on dosing anything. I am only keeping softies and as such water changes should replace everything I need if they are frequent enough. However, I might add these things when I come into money (or christmas).
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
"I might add these things when I come into money (or christmas)."
Aren't they almost synonymous?
Aren't they almost synonymous?
florida joe
Well-Known Member
Quote:
The sensitivity on this ATO is ridiculous (which is great), but it will need to be turned off before I touch anything in the tank.
I don’t understand this if you add something to your tank it displaces water but the displaced water stays in your system. This raises the water level not lowering it which would not cause the ato to activate
The sensitivity on this ATO is ridiculous (which is great), but it will need to be turned off before I touch anything in the tank.
I don’t understand this if you add something to your tank it displaces water but the displaced water stays in your system. This raises the water level not lowering it which would not cause the ato to activate
pezenfuego
Active Member
It creates a wave. A wave propogates through the system first lowering and then raising the water level. The ATO works with overkill in mind. Even though the sensor shuts off, it pumps a little extra into the tank. Is it a big deal? No.
But the bigger concern is when I lift something from the tank. Say I want to inspect the heater or check out the media basket. The ATO would kick on.
But the bigger concern is when I lift something from the tank. Say I want to inspect the heater or check out the media basket. The ATO would kick on.
novahobbies
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary#post_3495710
The ONLY place that a top off valve can go if you have a sump - is in the return chamber - where you have your return pump. This is the only place where you will visibly see evaporation in your tank - and the place that needs to be topped off and regulated.
Everything else looks pretty good so far. Getting it all done, I see...
Why don't you just get a pH monitor - Milwalkee makes them cheap and you can just go by your tank and look at the meter and know everything is good instead of buying the test kit?
Holy crap! I found this on the big amazonian site for a steal......and free shipping....gonna get it with my next payday in fact. I'm tired of fussing with API tests for pH....thanks Seth!
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary#post_3495710
The ONLY place that a top off valve can go if you have a sump - is in the return chamber - where you have your return pump. This is the only place where you will visibly see evaporation in your tank - and the place that needs to be topped off and regulated.
Everything else looks pretty good so far. Getting it all done, I see...
Why don't you just get a pH monitor - Milwalkee makes them cheap and you can just go by your tank and look at the meter and know everything is good instead of buying the test kit?
Holy crap! I found this on the big amazonian site for a steal......and free shipping....gonna get it with my next payday in fact. I'm tired of fussing with API tests for pH....thanks Seth!
pezenfuego
Active Member
From the reviews I read, it needs to be recalibrated all the time. Fortunately the recalibration fluid is cheap.
pezenfuego
Active Member
Everything is all packed up currently. The equipment seemed to work well. I will hopefully get the (night)stand today and do another mach setup to see how things will fit and work. I picked up a new heater. I purchased a flat one that takes up essentially no room in the sump. It is only 15 watts though, which is cutting it close for this tank. The other one will be great to heat up my water change water. Right now I am thinking of doing a gallon each week. I am also throwing around the idea of half a gallon biweekly. Let me know what you think. I don't think I can really go wrong here, but I like to hear the opinions of others. It also will depend on what my corals take from the water. Since I am doing softies right now I have a feeling that dosing will be unnecessary. Also, the idea of dosing such a small tank scares me ever so slightly. But if I upgrade my lighting and get new corals, it may need to be done. I also got a light for the chaeto and finished off my list. I am psyched to get this cycle started off, but I am not looking forward to the constant questions of "when will you get fish?" and "What's with all that algae?"
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Whats with all that algae? When are you going to get a fish?
J/k
A gallon a week will be plenty for your purpose. Make sure you do proper water changes by blasting off your rocks before water changes. Youll do well. Dont over think it.
J/k
A gallon a week will be plenty for your purpose. Make sure you do proper water changes by blasting off your rocks before water changes. Youll do well. Dont over think it.
pezenfuego
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary/20#post_3496178
Whats with all that algae? When are you going to get a fish?
J/k
A gallon a week will be plenty for your purpose. Make sure you do proper water changes by blasting off your rocks before water changes. Youll do well. Dont over think it.
AHH IT BEGINS! Thanks. Here are some more pictures. Concerns:
1. The electrical equipment in here is vulnerable to getting wet.
3. The heater isn't going to be enough (right now it is hard to say-it has only been setup for a short while and the water in it was 60 degrees to start)
4. The light for the back of the tank. I was thinking of using a night light. The problem is mounting in. Ideas?
PICTURES NOTE: The actual aquarium will be rotated 90 degrees such that the actual back of the tank will face the wall. In this mach setup, if oriented correctly, the stand door would be unopenable.
What was done:
1. two holes drilled in the side (one goes to the outlet the other to the tank)
2. Painted piece of wood drilled to the top to distribute the load.
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary/20#post_3496178
Whats with all that algae? When are you going to get a fish?
J/k
A gallon a week will be plenty for your purpose. Make sure you do proper water changes by blasting off your rocks before water changes. Youll do well. Dont over think it.
AHH IT BEGINS! Thanks. Here are some more pictures. Concerns:
1. The electrical equipment in here is vulnerable to getting wet.
3. The heater isn't going to be enough (right now it is hard to say-it has only been setup for a short while and the water in it was 60 degrees to start)
4. The light for the back of the tank. I was thinking of using a night light. The problem is mounting in. Ideas?
PICTURES NOTE: The actual aquarium will be rotated 90 degrees such that the actual back of the tank will face the wall. In this mach setup, if oriented correctly, the stand door would be unopenable.
What was done:
1. two holes drilled in the side (one goes to the outlet the other to the tank)
2. Painted piece of wood drilled to the top to distribute the load.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
If this is in an office, what I would do is make sure I installed a GFCI Unit on that electrical socket - and then I would use a powerstrip with a fuse and some other electrical switches and safety things... and then put the rest of the electrical work at the bottom of the stand. Then, I'd buy one of those electrical power cord holders - the kind that you would use to hide your TV's electrical power cords to make it look nicer (do you know what I'm talking about??). It would make the electrical work much more clean looking - and it would hide the power strip so that clients, kids and coworkers don't mess with it. As long as you drip loop the cords and don't lay the power strip directly down on the bottom of the stand, you shouldn't have any electrical problems. As it stands now, one wave going off the back of the tank and your powerstrip is fried.
pezenfuego
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary/20#post_3496232
If this is in an office, what I would do is make sure I installed a GFCI Unit on that electrical socket - and then I would use a powerstrip with a fuse and some other electrical switches and safety things... and then put the rest of the electrical work at the bottom of the stand. Then, I'd buy one of those electrical power cord holders - the kind that you would use to hide your TV's electrical power cords to make it look nicer (do you know what I'm talking about??). It would make the electrical work much more clean looking - and it would hide the power strip so that clients, kids and coworkers don't mess with it. As long as you drip loop the cords and don't lay the power strip directly down on the bottom of the stand, you shouldn't have any electrical problems. As it stands now, one wave going off the back of the tank and your powerstrip is fried.
No, it's for a dorm. I left my GFCI powerstrip at school. I can't mess with the actual outlets. I was more concerned about the pump hanging over the ATO outlet (refer to picture). I don't know quite what you're talking about with the power cord holder, but I'll google around and look for it.
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary/20#post_3496232
If this is in an office, what I would do is make sure I installed a GFCI Unit on that electrical socket - and then I would use a powerstrip with a fuse and some other electrical switches and safety things... and then put the rest of the electrical work at the bottom of the stand. Then, I'd buy one of those electrical power cord holders - the kind that you would use to hide your TV's electrical power cords to make it look nicer (do you know what I'm talking about??). It would make the electrical work much more clean looking - and it would hide the power strip so that clients, kids and coworkers don't mess with it. As long as you drip loop the cords and don't lay the power strip directly down on the bottom of the stand, you shouldn't have any electrical problems. As it stands now, one wave going off the back of the tank and your powerstrip is fried.
No, it's for a dorm. I left my GFCI powerstrip at school. I can't mess with the actual outlets. I was more concerned about the pump hanging over the ATO outlet (refer to picture). I don't know quite what you're talking about with the power cord holder, but I'll google around and look for it.
snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by PEZenfuego http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary/20#post_3496234
No, it's for a dorm. I left my GFCI powerstrip at school. I can't mess with the actual outlets. I was more concerned about the pump hanging over the ATO outlet (refer to picture). I don't know quite what you're talking about with the power cord holder, but I'll google around and look for it.
In that case, I would still hide the powercords and power strip from other kids, inside the stand.
The power cord holder thing is this black snake like thing that you stuff the power cords into and it combines them all into one. You could either use one of those or use some power cord velcro to pull them all together. It would make it look nicer. It's used for Tv's... it's in the electrical section in Wal-Mart.
Originally Posted by PEZenfuego http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary/20#post_3496234
No, it's for a dorm. I left my GFCI powerstrip at school. I can't mess with the actual outlets. I was more concerned about the pump hanging over the ATO outlet (refer to picture). I don't know quite what you're talking about with the power cord holder, but I'll google around and look for it.
In that case, I would still hide the powercords and power strip from other kids, inside the stand.
The power cord holder thing is this black snake like thing that you stuff the power cords into and it combines them all into one. You could either use one of those or use some power cord velcro to pull them all together. It would make it look nicer. It's used for Tv's... it's in the electrical section in Wal-Mart.
pezenfuego
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary/20#post_3496235
In that case, I would still hide the powercords and power strip from other kids, inside the stand.
The power cord holder thing is this black snake like thing that you stuff the power cords into and it combines them all into one. You could either use one of those or use some power cord velcro to pull them all together. It would make it look nicer. It's used for Tv's... it's in the electrical section in Wal-Mart.
OH! Gotcha!. Yeah, that would be a fantastic idea.
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/393113/pezenfuegos-4-gallon-pico-tank-diary/20#post_3496235
In that case, I would still hide the powercords and power strip from other kids, inside the stand.
The power cord holder thing is this black snake like thing that you stuff the power cords into and it combines them all into one. You could either use one of those or use some power cord velcro to pull them all together. It would make it look nicer. It's used for Tv's... it's in the electrical section in Wal-Mart.
OH! Gotcha!. Yeah, that would be a fantastic idea.