Phosphate- removal of hairy algae

beckzilla

Member
I need some opinions on where to go now that I have been fighting off hairy green algae for a couple of months now. I had a bad outbreak mainly on my LR and have been scraping it off a little at a time with a brush getting as much as possible. Also have been brushing off alot of brown slimey algae off of the back wall and water outlets. My Toadstool and Hammer have not opened up for quite awhile but are now starting to slowly come back to life as I have been running carbon in a Magnum 350 and running Rowaphos through a reactor for a few weeks now. PH is still a little high but not bad and have cut down on light and feedings as well as doing alot of water changes. My question now is...is now a good time to start taking out the LR and manually scrubbing the algae off or? I am ready to do this if you guys think it would be useful at this time although my Phosphates are not down to zero yet.
 

golfish

Active Member
Get a Sea hare..it will eat all the alage. Once its gone just take it back to your LFS for credit.
 

beckzilla

Member
Originally Posted by golfish
Get a Sea hare..it will eat all the alage. Once its gone just take it back to your LFS for credit.
What exactly is a Sea Hare and where do I get one.
 

duke13

Member
Originally Posted by golfish
Get a Sea hare..it will eat all the alage. Once its gone just take it back to your LFS for credit.

Sorry, that's only a temporary solution and a very risky one. A Lettuce Nudibranch would do the same job with the toxic risks. Also, Black Long Spine Urchins have been known to eat hair algae.
Your best bet at this moment is to either take your rock out and scrub it or tape a toothbrush to end of your syphon hose and scrub that way. Do you use tap water? If so, switch to RO. Also, really restrict your feedings, do PRECISE amounts once every other day (your fish will not starve!). How old are your lights? Once lights get old, they start losing their color spectrum and that alone can promote unwanted algae growth.
If possible, try to avoid using any chemical products, they are only a temporary solution. You may also want to consider adding more clean up inverts.
Good luck.
 

golfish

Active Member
Originally Posted by Duke13
Sorry, that's only a temporary solution and a very risky one. A chLettuce Nudibran would do the same job with the toxic risks.

There's no way a Lettuce Nudibranch can come close to what Sea Hare can do when it comes to eating algea. Their no where near as hardy as the SH's and can't come close the they amount of alage consumed, I've had both. I agree that you should get to the root of the problem.
I added two SH's a few months ago. They ate a 120 gal tank FULL of Bryopsis in 1 week. Once it was gone I moved one to my frag tank, then to a fellow reefer. I have not seen the other one in over a month.
 

stuckinfla

Active Member
I wish someone around here had some seahares. I just broke down my 55 - every single rock is covered with bryops!!! I even tried an experiment. I completly buried a small rock in the sand to see what would happen. Aslo put a medium rock in my sump.
The rock in the sand had alge on it 6 MONTHS LATER!!!!! No lie.
The rock in the sump - gone in two weeks.
So now I have all my rock in a dark tubberware container with some pumps & completly covered. Hopfuly this will work and I can add the rock to my 180.
But yes, I would have added a seahare(or 10!) if I could get one.
 

sterling007

Member
I had a terrible hair algae problem a couple of years ago in my 125 gallon and here is what I resorted to and it did get rid of the hair algea completely:
1. took out every piece of rock that was affected and scrubbed with small brush under warm water....yes it kills the critters, but also kills the algae.
2. Threw away about 50 lbs of rock that was so badly covered that it was unsaveable.
3. Bought a lawnmower blenny. He really took care of alot of it. I actually saw him gulping it down. In fact, once the hair algae was gone I found him a new home because he wasn't eating anything else.
4. Did a 50% water change 3 times over a 2 month period.
5. Got phosphate sponge and kept replenshing it in the sump.
6. Got rid of my MH lights for 6 months.
I truly had a bad problem. Was so disheartened that I almost dismantled the tank, but did all the above and to this day have not had another outbreaik.
Good luck.
 

57chev

Member
Beckzilla, Here's my speach I've posted a couple of times on the actual only thing I will claim to be an expert on when it comes to reefs. I'm gonna give you my advise on the nasty hair algae curse. Not everone will agree with me on all of what I have to say but I can asure you I've had a reef up for over eight years and I've been to hell and back with this stuff and I'll tell you what works, for sure, some of the time, part of the time, and non of the damn time. It is true that hair algae loves phosphates and silica, and ofcourse light, and eliminating or reducing these things will help curb it to a degree, but here's the thing a perfectly healthy reef with good water quality can grow hair algae, especially if your reef has ever had it before! Water changes are the quickest way to get your PO4 under control assuming your using RO water or a water source that has no PO4 in it. Here's the hard part and the part that always pisses me of when people pipe off and say it, that is, all you have to do is worry about water quality and get it right and the hair algae goes away. Not true! The hair algae that is in your tank stores enough nutrients within itself to grow at an alarming rate with perfect water readings! Dont be fooled just because the cheap Charlie test kits we all have read zero. Testing phosphates is fine, I do, but does it really matter? No matter what the test says you gotta problem. Its like a heart problem, once you have one, you dont cure it, you manage it! So, here's my 2 cents on how to get rid of it including all the blatently obvious overplayed things that are repeated over and over again. Bigger and longer established tanks are harder to treat than smaller ones for sure.
1) Do water changes ofcourse, but rig yourself up a rigid length of clear tubing to your siphon hose to control and vacuum up all the loose algae and reef debris. Reef dust that collects in old dead corals like trumpets and torches and such seem to be the worst.
2) To really get a head start take some of the rocks out of the tank and dip them into a bucket of salt water and scrub the ever holy liven crap out of them with a toothbrush.
3) Cutting your light time, and reducing your feedings are certainly helpful at least until you get it under control.
4) Get or make sure your skimmer is running properly! And replace your prefilter media constantly.
5) When selecting a clean-up crew, be careful not to over do it at first! Its great to have a snail for every gallon like some people say, and all the other cute little criters, and I dont totally disagree, but if you put a lot them in your tank and some die off, (and they always do) you've now created more fuel for your algae. Big time!
6) Dump in some long spiny urchins, you cant kill hardly em, and they really mow! They can tip things over though, so watch em! Their a little slow, but over all these are my favorite, and did I mention their tougher than heck!
7) The phos-ban products do help, but their expensive and with all the other factors they alone wont eliminate your algae only help manage it after you've gottin rid of a lot of it. I like the slower acting stuff for a long term preventative measure.
8) UV stearlization is good for some things, but worthless for hair algae.
9) Adding fish that eat algae is more preventative than a cure, and if you have a real problem it will only help minimally. Anytime you can just add a fish or two and eliminate your algae, you dont have a real problem. Trust me!
10) Increasing reef circulation will help by keeping the reef dust kicked up so it easier for the filters to get it out of your tank.
The bottom line on all this is to get it under control you have to get a little drastic, or you wont get it under control. From that point on its prevention. Hope this helps.
 

beckzilla

Member
Originally Posted by Duke13
Sorry, that's only a temporary solution and a very risky one. A Lettuce Nudibranch would do the same job with the toxic risks. Also, Black Long Spine Urchins have been known to eat hair algae.
Your best bet at this moment is to either take your rock out and scrub it or tape a toothbrush to end of your syphon hose and scrub that way. Do you use tap water? If so, switch to RO. Also, really restrict your feedings, do PRECISE amounts once every other day (your fish will not starve!). How old are your lights? Once lights get old, they start losing their color spectrum and that alone can promote unwanted algae growth.
If possible, try to avoid using any chemical products, they are only a temporary solution. You may also want to consider adding more clean up inverts.
Good luck.
Why is getting a Sea Hare a risky situation? Guys, thanks for all your suggestions. Right now I think pulling out the rock and scrubbing it is my best bet. My question to this is I have 100 lbs. of rock and if I take it all out at once and clean, wont this cause a cycle? I have a LMB and Achilles Tang but there is no way that they can keep up with all this algae. Have been running Rowaphos per NMReef's suggestion and will run this forever. Using RO/DI only and have cut way down on feedings and lighting. Lighting is only a few months old.
 

duke13

Member
Sea Hares can be toxic, especially if they're stressed or when they die. However, if you have a big tank, the toxic damage wouldn't be too bad. I'm well aware of the performance difference between a Lettuce and a Sea Hare. I just don't like the fact that a single slug could 'tank' your tank. However, if you're just 'renting' the Sea Hare, I don't see a problem with that.
 

snowman

New Member
Will the spiny urchin bother my mushrooms etc in my reef tank with hair alage I never had this before in the past 2 years since I switched to reef tank. Someone told me to put it looks like green brillo pad plant in my sump that it would eat the nutrients that the hair alge needs to survive one wht is your thought. It sounds to me as many people there are as many ideas. I leave my lights on for about 12 hour 13 a day using 72" Vho blue and Wh 6 of them in my 125 tank. temp between 75 and 80 durining the later day time when lights are on I have two fans and just put one in my sump it is about 40 gal with section deviding the Skimmer and pump from the plant and the water that comes from my overflow box. Any ideas that might help I use DI water only and putting Ro next How much effect is the ph in your thoughts. I try to maintain my reading constantly and do water changes maybe I need to take out 10% everyother day for couple of weeks. Thanks for your thoughts. The Snowman.
 

57chev

Member
Beckzilla, you wont get e re-cycle situation in your tank just from cleaning your rock of and putting it back in.
Sammiefish, adding a queen conch and an emerald crab and only small water changes like the ones you have mentioned wont do much for a real hair aglae problem. If it does, you never had a real, real problem in the first place.
Snowman, the spiny urchins are the single best animals for helping your hair algae problem, in fact they have dumped tens of thousands of them on reel reefs to help with the hair algae thats choking them. They wont hurt your mushrooms, but they can and will tip things over from time to time so watch em.
 

sammiefish

Member
just to be clear... I in no way meant to imply that "a" conch or crab was enough.... just that those "species" will feed on hair algae....
Have you ever owned a queen conch? If you have not, im sure you would be amazed... I would never have believed its ability to pack it away until I saw it for myself!!!
as far as the water changes, I stand by my suggestion... 10% every couple days... no more than that at once.... its the safest way... you dont want to promote any additional die-off in a tank that already has an algae problem.
just my 2c
 
Top