Pics of my new buddies...

moraym

Active Member
I think someone took the original quote way out of context, which was: MorayM:: Maintaining biological filtration longterm with bioballs requires maintenance as well to continue them being effective
Whereas the debate probably rages on as to whether or not bioball maintenance is needed in all tanks, I simply doubted hocky98 would perform the maintenance needed to even attept to hold an excessive bioload in his tank.
Bioballs do serve a function, as I've stated several times. But if they are your only line of defense, they require assistance in the form of maintenance.
As bioballs (or wheels, or even LR) become convered with and saturated with broken down wastes and dissolved organic compounds (DOCs), they can contribute further to the nitrate levels in a tank. LR less-so since the organisms on healthy LR should keep them from being saturate with DOCs, as does water flow through porous LR, more water flow than in a trickle system (balls). As long as appropriate maintenance is done on the aquarium, they will serve a function. However most people seem to have issues performing standard maintenance such as water changes, much less rinsing a few bioballs once in a while.
This is all counteracted by bioballs/wheels not being your sole source
of filtration, as opposed to the tank way up on this thread. Over a year or so, DOCs WILL build up on the bioballs moreso than other filter media and LR.
That's why a prefilter, such as a filter sock, is so essential. It captures excess debris, particles, and DOCs before it hits the bioballs, allowing them to not be saturated/covered w/ DOCs, at least not as swiftly.
This is becoming like the DSB discussion, is it effective, is it not, with what maintenance, over what time period, etc. And I still think for hocky's tank, LR is a much more effective method than the current wheel/ball setup that isn't adequate for that fish load.
 

moraym

Active Member

Originally posted by tony detroit
Are you saying that using RO/DI water will reduce the effectiveness and/or numbers of the nitrifying bacteria that reside in the tank?

Depending on the location you're in and the chemicals in your water, nitrate levels in the tank can be easily impacted by putting unpurified tap water full of other unwanted contaminates back into the tank. Ammonia is a particular problem in heavily treated water, not to mention excessively-treated water (some southern locals used to double the amount of certain chemicals, trying to improve teeth). Especially if your ground water is close to the surface, organics (even some similar to carcinogenics) are present in the water column, and may not be totally filtered out through the water company's organic absorbers or treatments. Some water systems even contain harmful types of nitrobacters in their columns, leading to nitrates, but SHOULD be mostly filtered out by water companies, but not always 100%. Even the type of vegetation near you water source can impact tank levels and eventually 'trates, I used to live near conifer forests and experienced this way too much myself. Many water supplies can be contaminated with dissolved organics or organic microparticulates, which play havoc with tank levels and down the line lead to nitrate issues. The $hi* rolls downhill, so to speak, ending up with that familiar dark red reading on some people's nitrate test.
 

zemuro114

Member
wel all this jibba jabba is useless, because we all know that lion will be dead in les then 3 months. The wolf eel in less then a year, and the niger may or may not survive the brutal beatings the CT will sooner or later give. That tank is doomed if not upgraded to a HUGE tank of 180 or more. The lion will never see the upgrade...
but hey, good luck!
 
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