Planning a Seahorse Tank

verojeremy

Member
I want to do a lagoon type seahorse tank with photosynthetic gorgonians, different micro-alage, and possibly mangroves.
OK where to start; I wanted to do a 20 gallon or smaller tank that could be linked to my sump in my 75 gallon reef because it has the fuge, phophate reactor and my protein skimmer. My tank is 79 degrees at night and 80 during the day. I know seahorses like it at about 74-75 and because that also prevents diseases. Would it be fine at 80 or should I get like a 6 inch clip on fan and clip it on my sump to lower it to about to 78? If not any other ways. I dont really want to spend $500 on a chiller.
So I want a pair of seahorses and I was thinking on hippocampus erectus, would they be fine in a 20 gallon or would a 20 gallon tall be good? I don't really want anything bigger. and if they are fine in the 20 tall could I still get like a little goby w/ shrimp or a dartfish? I also add phyto/zoo-plankton to my fuge, and I add copeopods and amphiopods too. If I shouldn't get that seahorse kind are there any other ones that are as easy.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by verojeremy http:///t/391198/planning-a-seahorse-tank#post_3468072
I want to do a lagoon type seahorse tank with photosynthetic gorgonians, different micro-alage, and possibly mangroves.
OK where to start; I wanted to do a 20 gallon or smaller tank that could be linked to my sump in my 75 gallon reef because it has the fuge, phophate reactor and my protein skimmer. My tank is 79 degrees at night and 80 during the day. I know seahorses like it at about 74-75 and because that also prevents diseases. Would it be fine at 80 or should I get like a 6 inch clip on fan and clip it on my sump to lower it to about to 78? If not any other ways. I dont really want to spend $500 on a chiller.
So I want a pair of seahorses and I was thinking on hippocampus erectus, would they be fine in a 20 gallon or would a 20 gallon tall be good? I don't really want anything bigger. and if they are fine in the 20 tall could I still get like a little goby w/ shrimp or a dartfish? I also add phyto/zoo-plankton to my fuge, and I add copeopods and amphiopods too. If I shouldn't get that seahorse kind are there any other ones that are as easy.
30g is the smallest tank for a pair of Erectus. 74 is the perfect degree for tropical SHs, at 78 and I fear you will have problems. The tiny critters, disease and pathogens from the reef would make it not a good idea to be hooked up to the SH tank....However macroalgae will take care of phosphate and nitrate problems and it wouldn't need to be inline with the reef tank.
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
Hey there. I know you pm'd me, but since you also started this thread I'm going to respond here so other new members can read and learn too.
First, let's talk tank size. In my estimation, nothing less than a 29g tank should be considered for H. erectus and H. reidi horses....ESPECIALLY for new horse owners. More advanced hobbyists who are more familiar with the ins and outs of seahorse care may be able to keep horses long term in 20g tanks, but I think you'll find that these people have also learned enough to know that it's not a good idea to DO for long term. The smallest tank I would personally recommend is a 29g tank, with a tall tank in the thirties more preferable. But you can safely keep a pair of H. erectus in a 29 without any problems.
Now let's talk about plumbing. It is a very bad idea to share this tank's plumbing with the bigger tank. First off, you will be sharing potential pathogens from one tank to the other, and these may be diseases the horses haven't been exposed to and can't handle. Just as important...you REALLY should not keep a seahorse tank at 79-80. 75 is actually near the top of the range for these guys, and you'll be much better off keeping it lower than that.
Now, here's some good news. You don't want to spend an arm and a leg on a chiller. Don't blame ya. But I would suggest you shell out $100 for a piece of equipment called an Ice Probe, and another $15 for an Aquaclear filter to fit it to. This little mini chiller will (as long as you're using T5s or PC lighting!!) easily keep a 29g tank in the 73 degree range. I used one on my 37g tank while I used PC lights to great effect.
Now, let's talk about your tank plan. I think your idea of using Macros is a good move on your part. Macros are a helpful and easy way of keeping the nitrates down in the tank. You mentioned in your PM, "How clean does the water need to be," and talked about corals that can handle dirty water. I don't want you to think that Horses should be in dirty water conditions. It IS true that seahorse tanks are typically higher in nitrates than your average reef tank, but this isn't something that should be accepted....it's a part of our chemistry balance that we're always fighting. We combat it with the use of regular water changes, macroalgae, and whatever various nitrate-reducing WonderProducts we happen to be in love with that particular month.
My personal regimen is 5 gallons WC a week, and full filter pad change every 2 weeks. I think that many Caulerpa macros like C. racemosa and C. mexicana are great for nutrient export in horse tanks as long as they are harvested properly and on a regular basis.
Since you're looking to keep your bills down, I think you'll be pleased to know that you don't HAVE to keep any super-expensive filtration on this. Sump style filters or canisters may be nice, but not necessary. A simple HOB style filter (rated for, say, 55g) will suffice along with the Aquaclear with the iceprobe fitting. A heater is hardly necessary down here in Florida, except for our cooler winter days, and a simple air pump with a rigid air line (no air stone) will help move water as well.
You didn't mention Protein Skimming. IMO this is one of the most necessary ingredients in a Horse tank, and one that shouldn't be skimped on. I used to have the Aquaeruo USA nano skimmer (before they changed the design) and it was a decent little skimmer for a very reasonable price. I've since upped to the Tunze nano, and I have to say I love it. Might be too much of an eyesore in a 29g tank, though...you will have to decide that.
Finally, fish. Yes, there are a good number of fish that are safe to house with horses. There's a whole list that's stickied on this site, so I'm not going to wast time repeating it. I will say this, though: Since you're new to horses, start with just the horses. Don't go fiddling around with new fish until you have a few months of seahorse maintenance under your belt. Once you have that knowledge and experience of how horse tanks operate, then you can be free to consider adding a small firefish or other SLOW eating animal....but get your feet wet with just the horses before you go there.
I hope that's a good start for you! There are plenty of reference threads on this site for seahorse beginners. I would efinitely take an evening and read through them carefully....and of course....have fun!
 

teresaq

Active Member

read thru thrus pinned threads at the top of the forum, there is a lot of info for new horse keepers
 

verojeremy

Member
Ok so instead od just upgrading my reef in a year or 2 I think u will just save up for the seahorse tank. Ok so I will look into the iceprobe and a aquaclear rated for a 10 gallon to hook it up to. I think I will get the penguien 550, I think that's what its called. My dad had it on his 55 fresh and it keeped it clean. As for a skimmer I think I will look at an swc one because I just love mine that I have now and I will also see if I can get a sump. I think on craigslist I saw this sump with baffles and everything and it was a 20 long for 30 dollars. So a 29 would be ok for a pair of h. Erectus and a small group of firefish or something. When I meant dirty I ment nutrient rich water for pods and stuff. I don't even knpw If I can get one but I think if I get good grades in my spanish and algebra class my parents will let me. Also as far as lights would a 4 bulb t5 be good or should I do 2? Also what are good places to get the actual seahorses?
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by verojeremy http:///t/391198/planning-a-seahorse-tank#post_3470444
Ok so instead od just upgrading my reef in a year or 2 I think u will just save up for the seahorse tank. Ok so I will look into the iceprobe and a aquaclear rated for a 10 gallon to hook it up to. I think I will get the penguien 550, I think that's what its called. My dad had it on his 55 fresh and it keeped it clean. As for a skimmer I think I will look at an swc one because I just love mine that I have now and I will also see if I can get a sump. I think on craigslist I saw this sump with baffles and everything and it was a 20 long for 30 dollars. So a 29 would be ok for a pair of h. Erectus and a small group of firefish or something. When I meant dirty I ment nutrient rich water for pods and stuff. I don't even knpw If I can get one but I think if I get good grades in my spanish and algebra class my parents will let me. Also as far as lights would a 4 bulb t5 be good or should I do 2? Also what are good places to get the actual seahorses?
Seahorse source or go hang out at seahorse.org...folks who breed them sell them there and you can get them here on this site as well.
Any upgrade costs money...if you have a clear idea of what you want, then do everything working toward that goal. The horses do not require good llights, but some macros do. T5s should be plenty, that's what I use, and they don't put out heat into the tank...a big plus for a SH tank.
 

verojeremy

Member
Yeah I know it will cost money but I love seahorses and I already have a reef and I just want to make an excuse to go seahorse than upgrade lol. I will get t5s because I have 8 on my reef and I am keeping birdsnest in the middle and a monti undata in the middle to and all have been doing fine so they do their job and dont get to hot. I could always go led but that costs a lot. So if I go t5 should I do 4 or 2 bulbs? Also should I start with H. Erectus or is there an easier one?
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
I think the bulb issue depends on what you want to see in the tank! A good Two bulb t5 will be fine for most macros, some very tolerant soft corals like some mushrooms, etc. If you want more than that, go for the 4-bulb fixture.
Since you're planning and saving, why don't you up the game just a little and get a 37g tank? It's the same footprint as a 29g, just a little taller, and will be much safer and easier to handle in terms of water quality for your horses. Plus: it doesn't cost a whole heck of a lot more than a 29g tank, and you have the option of possibly getting a third horse once you've cut your teeth on the beginner's basics.
I don't really think that there is much difference in terms of "ease of keeping" between H. erectus, reidi, and kuda horses. They are all fairly robust. Southern H. erectus might be a little more forgiving of warmer temperatures, but they still shouldn't be kept warmer than 74 degrees.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by verojeremy http:///t/391198/planning-a-seahorse-tank#post_3470450
Yeah I know it will cost money but I love seahorses and I already have a reef and I just want to make an excuse to go seahorse than upgrade lol. I will get t5s because I have 8 on my reef and I am keeping birdsnest in the middle and a monti undata in the middle to and all have been doing fine so they do their job and dont get to hot. I could always go led but that costs a lot. So if I go t5 should I do 4 or 2 bulbs? Also should I start with H. Erectus or is there an easier one?
Hi,
All I'm saying is to make a goal and work toward it. I thought you were going to build a reef, then change later to a SH tank...now I realize you want a SH tank as well as the reef. I was just telling you to pick one thing and go for it...just a small misunderstanding...sorry
Any of the Captive bred seahorses (not the dwarf) are good as long as they eat frozen mysis shrimp. I have only had Erectus and Kuda horses, and they are both pretty hardy...I firmly believe the magic number for the temp is at 74...I think the erectus has the more entertaining personality of the two. The set up is very easy...it's a fish only system...if you add (only non-stinging) coral you change things a bit with lighting and tank mates. A CUC of different snails is a must...horses are very msesy eaters and create lots of wasted food..
You will need live rock but also mostly things a SH can hitch it's tail to. Be careful of heaters or power heads where tails could get burned or caught. either have a sump for a heater or no heater at all...choose power heads that do not have open fan like fronts like a Koralia. I found Seiko to be the right type for me. You need a good water flow throughout the tank without beating the horses to death...that's a little tricky.
If your horses spend the whole day hitching to something holding on for dear life, and only swim around when the power heads are stopped for feeding...LOL..Like I had
...your flow is too strong. If you don't have enough flow cyano is the result because they are messy and leave lots of nutrients for cyano to feed on...the good news is that macros love messy eaters, and caulerpa prolifera looks just like the turtle grass SHs love to hang out in. They hitch in the tall grass and play all day.
Feeding is different too. I shut the power off so the food does not blow around...I use a sea squirt (fancy turkey baster) and feed mine...they follow the tube anywhere and I have a feeding place to quide them to...in no time they will gather at the feeding dish when they are hungry. There is another way with a 1 inch tube, but it requires the food to soak so it doesn't float away and it took a little extra time and effort (I didn't mind)....but the horses wallowed in it with their tails and sent the food all over anyway, which made me feel like it was a wasted effort on my part, so I stopped and just squirt their food into the dish and let them have at it...I added 5 peppermint shrimp to control aptasia and eat the extra wasted food as well as two yellow clown gobies.
Here is a picture of my 30g long seahorse/reef tank...(before hair algae took over after a 4 day power failure)
 

verojeremy

Member
OK so swc dosent make a small enough protein skimmer so what would be a good one for 2 seahorses and maybe some other fish. Also I have a mandarin in my 75 now and I know they are peacful fish could I get one for the 29 if i get a fuge and have enough pods? or would it also have to eat frozen? So just planning here, I am going to get a male and female H. Erectus ( or should I have two females or two males?) 1 helfrichi firefish, maybe 1 mandarin, an iceprobe attatched to an aquacler 20, a protein skimmer (don't know which one yet), a koralia nano powerhead (or any other suggestions), a 29 gallon tank w/ stand, 2 bulb t5 fixture, and a hopefully a sump to put the skimmer, and a refugium. Should I get another hang on back filter or is the protein skimmer enough?
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
(37. you want a 37, mate.)

IF you get a sump with a refugium, and IF you wait a good 4 months for the pods to grow...and IF you also get a captive raised Mandarin....then yes, you can easily keep that Mandarin in a 29g tank. ONLY if all of those conditions are met. I say this because a captive bred mandarin will be eating a mix of pods and frozen food. From what I've read, ORA captive bred Mandarins are slow to recognize mysis, but go after nutramar ova pretty well. A wild caught mandarin will NOT have enough food in this size tank under normal circumstances.
My suggestion to you would be to get two females.
I like your stocklist for a 29...just one Mandarin, and just one firefish. You could increase that list by an extra horse with a bigger tank.
I would add that extra hang on filter you were talking about if you're not using a sump. If you are, then I would DIY a trickle filter for filter pads, etc. in the sump's first chamber.
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
Agreed on the Tunze nano. I have one too. You could go with others (I did!) but you'll eventually upgrade to the Tunze, so just save your pennies. It's worth the price. The AquaticLife internal skimmer is OK, but doesn't have the pulling power of the Tunze.
 

verojeremy

Member
OK so I am going to go with a 37 gallon tank with 3 female H. Erectus seahorses, 1 firefish hopefully helfrichi, and a dragonet if I can do a sump/fuge and a tunze nano skimmer, unless anyone else has any better suggestions, a 2x t5 fixture, about 40 pounds or less of base rock, and I am thinking on getting a penguin 350 hob filter. For hitching posts what should I use? . Another question is what should I do for flow?. For corals I am thinking of some nice zoas, and mushrooms.
 

verojeremy

Member
Also if you set up the tank the right way and I get 3 females that are captive breed from seahorse source .com and eat frozen, how hard are they to keep?
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by verojeremy http:///t/391198/planning-a-seahorse-tank#post_3470578
Also if you set up the tank the right way and I get 3 females that are captive breed from seahorse source .com and eat frozen, how hard are they to keep?
They are as easy as any fish...just keep the temp at the right degree, feed them 2Xs a day hikari mysis frozen shrimp. Rinse the shrimp beofre feeding and it's all good.
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
I would still strongly recommend you start with two, and add the third after a few months of horse keeping. Best to learn about their habits and the housekeeping chores with a fewer number of rear ends in the tank to clean up after before you add your third. You may want to email Seahorsesource and get their opinion on that as well.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Hi,
I feed my horses 2xs a day...it kind of ties me to the house, and I can't leave to spend the weekends at the grandkids anymore. I'm not sure how much damage it would do to feed the horses only once a day like fish are fed on a regular bases. As a young person you may not want to tie yourself down that much...it's an awful lot of responsibility.
 
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