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[spanko]

Here you go!
Oceanic BioCube Aquarium Systems
Specifications
BioCube 8
Aquarium Volume: 8.9 gallons
Dimensions: 12-1/2" x 13" x 15" high
36 watt canopy
lighting includes: (1) 18 watt True Actinic 03 Blue straight pin
(1) 18 watt 10,000K Daylight straight pin
(2) 0.75 watt Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow LED
Pump flow rate: 106 gph
BioCube 14
Aquarium Volume: 14.3 gallons
Dimensions: 15" x 15-1/2" x 17" high
48 watt canopy
lighting includes: (1) 24 watt True Actinic 03 Blue straight pin
(1) 24 watt 10,000K Daylight straight pin
(2) 0.75 watt Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow LED
Pump flow rate: 137 gph
BioCube 29
Aquarium Volume: 29.1 gallons
Dimensions: 20" x 20-3/4" x 19-1/4" high
72 watt canopy
lighting includes: (1) 36 watt True Actinic 03 Blue straight pin
(1) 36 watt 10,000K Daylight straight pin
(3) 0.75 watt Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow LED
Pump flow rate: 243 gph
Assembly
Safety Precautions
* DO NOT plug in BioCube to an outlet or power source until setup and installation is completed.
* Visually inspect the aquarium and canopy prior to installation to make sure it has not been damaged.
Canopy Assembly
1. Lift canopy from aquarium and visually check the assembly to verify that the light lens cover and compact fluorescent lamps have not been broken, damaged, or dislodged.
2. Make sure that lamps are securely inserted into the compact fluorescent endcaps and that the retaining bands are attached to the lamp clips holding the compact fluorescent lamps in place.
Wet/Dry Filter Assembly
1. Make sure that the BioCube filter cartridge is properly inserted at the first chamber of the wet/dry section.
2. Make sure that the overflow tray, bio-balls, and bio-ball strainer are properly placed in the second chamber of the wet/dry section.
3. Make sure that the sponge filter is correctly placed in the third chamber of the wet/dry section.
4. Make sure that the water pump is properly assembled and connected to the wet/dry return output.
Ballast Assembly
Make sure to read and follow instructions in their entirety before plugging the BioCube into an outlet or power source.
Compact Fluorescent Lamp Connector
1. Locate compact fluorescent lamp connector from aquarium canopy.
2. Align compact fluorescent lamp connector with compact fluorescent ballast connector.
3. Insert the compact fluorescent lamp connector male pins into the compact fluorescent ballast connector female inlets.
4. Make sure that the ballast connectors are fully seated into the lamp connectors; then twist locking ring onto threaded ring to secure the ballast connection.
Optional - Mounting the ballast
* Place ballast in desired location and mount ballast using washers and screws (not included).
* Tighten screws until ballast is securely fastened.
Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow LED Connector
1. Locate Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow LED connector from aquarium canopy.
2. Align Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow LED connector with Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow LED adapter.
3. Insert Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow LED connector male pin into the Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow LED adapter female inlet.
IMPORTANT: Make sure that the LED connector is fully seated into the adapter connector.
Operation
Grounding Setup
1. This appliance should be grounded to minimize the possibility of electric shock. This appliance is equipped with an electric cord with equipment grounding conductor and a grounding type plug. The plug must be plugged into an outlet that is installed and grounded in accordance with all appropriate codes and ordinances.
2. A temporary adapter may be used to connect this plug to a two-pole receptacle if a grounded outlet is not available. The temporary adapter should be used only until a grounded outlet can be installed by a qualified electrician (temporary adapter not included).
Grounding Installation
The green-colored rigid ear (

[hr]
, and the like) extending from the adapter must be fastened to a permanent ground such as a grounded outlet box.
Two-pole Outlet
1. Plug temporary adapter into two-pole outlet.
2. Insert

[hr]
through rigid ear on temporary adapter and into grounded outlet box.
Power Strip Setup
1. If using a power strip, the ground connector must be plugged into a receptacle controlled by a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter).
2. Make sure to place the power strip in a dry safe area away from the aquarium in order to avoid moisture.
3. Place power strip in a secure and stable area away from the aquarium to avoid moisture.
4. Place power strip in a secure and stable area so that it cannot fall into the aquarium.
5. Make sure all receptacles are protected from water (splash, spills, and condensation).

 

[spanko]

Lighting Start-up Operation
1. Verify that ballast connectors are attached and secure.
2. Plug ballast power cords into an outlet or power source and turn the switch on.
3. Verify that all lamps are lit and functioning properly.
4. Make sure that the cooling fans are on and blowing across the unit.
Warning: Do not obstruct cooling fan air input and cooling fan air discharge. Keep canopy vents clean from dust and debris.
Wet/Dry Filter Start-up Operation
1. Open canopy and remove filter cartridge. Rinse thoroughly with cool, fresh water and reinstall in first chamber.
2. Rinse substrate, sand, gravel, rocks, driftwood, plants and ornaments and add to aquarium.
3. Prepare aquarium water (saltwater/freshwater). Make sure water is at room temperature to prevent condensation.
4. Open canopy and slowly add water to the aquarium. Make sure to fill aquarium up to the lower edge of the top molding.
5. Plug water pump power cord into an outlet or a power source. Pump will raise water level in aquarium section and drain into wet/dry section.
Wet/Dry Filtration
Observe and make sure that the water circulation is flowing properly from the aquarium section through the wet/dry section.
STEP 1: Water proceeds into surface and bottom intake.
STEP 2: Water passes through filter cartridge.
STEP 3: Water flows into the overflow tray, trickles down the bio-balls and through the bio-ball strainer.
STEP 4: Water goes through the sponge filter (micro-bubble diffuser) and to the water pump.
STEP 5: Water is pumped into the aquarium through the output discharge nozzle.
Precautions for Optimal Filter Performance
* Do not block or obstruct surface and bottom intake.
* Do not block or obstruct output discharge nozzle.
* Perform scheduled maintenance on filter cartridge.
* Observe scheduled maintenance on water pump.
* Make sure to perform scheduled water changes and BioCube filtration maintenance.
Maintenance
Make sure all switches are in the OFF positions and unplug power cords from power source or outlet before performing any maintenance.
Daily Maintenance
* Visually observe the BioCube lighting and filtration to make sure the system is functioning properly.
* Check water level. Make sure to replace evaporated water for both freshwater and saltwater setup. Caution: Do not top off above the maximum water level. Do not let water get below the minimum water level.
Weekly Maintenance
* Keep BioCube surfaces clean from dust and debris. Wipe exposed surfaces with a clean and dampened soft terrycloth.
* Open canopy and wipe down light lens cover with clean dampened soft terrycloth.
* Inspect filtration system for clogging and excessive accumulation of debris. Clean and remove debris from surface and bottom intake and overflow tray. Rinse parts if needed.
NOTE: Do not clean bio-balls. Cleaning the bio-media is harmful to beneficial bacteria needed to break down ammonia and nitrite.
Monthly Maintenance
* Replace used filter cartridge and discard. NOTE: Make sure to rinse new filter cartridge with cool fresh water before installing inside BioCube.
* Remove sponge filter from wet/dry section. Rinse and clean sponge with cool fresh water to remove accumulated organic buildup.
* Disconnect water pump assembly from output elbow attachment and detach pump from flexible tubing.
* Disassemble pump and impeller. Rinse and wipe down all parts to dislodge debris and particulate matter. Note: If calcium buildup is present, soak in a vinegar solution (1 part vinegar to 1 part water) for 1 hour and rinse thoroughly.
9-12 Month Maintenance
Caution: Let lamps cool down before handling.
Note: Replace compact fluorescent lamps every 9-12 month when keeping photosynthetic organisms.
* Open canopy and unscrew light lens cover.
* Remove the silicon retaining bands from the lamp clip.
* Carefully lift lamp-end free from lamp clip.
* Gently disconnect compact fluorescent lamp from endcap. Remove and dispose of lamp properly.
* Install new compact fluorescent lamp to the canopy. Note: Make sure the lamp is fully seated in the endcap.
* Replace the silicon retaining bands onto lamp clip to secure the compact fluorescent lamp.
* Attach light lens cover to canopy.
Aquarium Location
* For best results, place the aquarium in a location best suited to support the total weight of the aquarium. The total filled weight of an aquarium is approximately 10-12 lbs per gallon.
* Always place the aquarium in a flat and level area.
* Avoid placing the aquarium where it will receive direct sunlight. Full or even partial sunlight can cause algae growth.
* Keep aquarium in a well-ventilated area away from a heating or cooling vent.
* Do not place near electronic components and systems (i.e. TV, stereo systems, etc).

 

[wattsupdoc]

OK, first of all...SLOW DOWN...OK?
Secondly, the PH being between 7.8 and 8.0 is not an issue....Your PH will naturally shift throughout the day. Small gradual shifts are not an issue. Buffering for PH should not be done IMO. most issues with PH can simply be solved by providing better aeration. Running your skimmer hose to a outside air source can often be a resolve. However, unless you have a refugium with a reverse daylight cycle, you will get PH shift throughout the day. Even then you may get some.... It wont hurt much if your dosing to adjust PH, it's just not a fix, just a band aid. As well, your throwing your chemistry off, if you don't test for alkalinity and calcium, you may be knocking that all out of whack.
Third. CONTINUE DRIP ACCLIMATING. Using a turkey baster is not a "less stressful" method. It works, but a properly done drip acclimation is the best way to go. This site has a great video of how to......Usually, the longer the better, slow drip at first, then faster as it progresses.

 

[sean48183]

Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/2893096
OK, first of all...SLOW DOWN...OK?
Secondly, the PH being between 7.8 and 8.0 is not an issue....Your PH will naturally shift throughout the day. Small gradual shifts are not an issue. Buffering for PH should not be done IMO.
Ph between 7.8 and 8.0 is absolutely an issue. If your ph is below 8.0 continously you are going to have serious issues(fish with ich, corals closing up and maybe disappearing, etc). Drops at night while stressful usually aren't fatal but will cause issues. Your tank will always drift to a lower ph so buffering is essential to maintain a ph of 8.3. Whatsupdoc is right about testing for alk along with this dosing because it will be affected. For me 1/4 tsp seachem 8.3 buffer per gallon works great but you will have to find the right balance for your tank.
Also I have used the baster method for 5 years and have NEVER lost an animal from it. Just for grins while doing the drip method put a thermometer in the bucket and watch what happens to the temp in the bucket. You will be about 6-8 degrees lower than the tank by the time you add the critter.

 

[lkgrenegade22]

Originally Posted by sean48183
http:///forum/post/2893111
Also I have used the baster method for 5 years and have NEVER lost an animal from it. Just for grins while doing the drip method put a thermometer in the bucket and watch what happens to the temp in the bucket. You will be about 6-8 degrees lower than the tank by the time you add the critter.
That was the main reason I quit doing the drip method. Why go through all the trouble of acclimating the water so well but yet have a HUGE difference in temps?

 

[fishslime]

Float the bag in the sump and drip from the dt no temp change and you get the nice slow acclimation

 

[sean48183]

That is a pretty good idea except my sump is in the basement.

 

[hollywooddiver]

that is a good idea. only if i had a sump. i will do that when i set up my 65 with a sump next month. i will try the baster method next time i get a creature just to see if i like it better. i have had great luck with the drip acclimation but i am always up for new things to try.

 

[wattsupdoc]

Originally Posted by sean48183
http:///forum/post/2893111
Ph between 7.8 and 8.0 is absolutely an issue. If your ph is below 8.0 continously you are going to have serious issues(fish with ich, corals closing up and maybe disappearing, etc). Drops at night while stressful usually aren't fatal but will cause issues. Your tank will always drift to a lower ph so buffering is essential to maintain a ph of 8.3. Whatsupdoc is right about testing for alk along with this dosing because it will be affected. For me 1/4 tsp seachem 8.3 buffer per gallon works great but you will have to find the right balance for your tank.
Also I have used the baster method for 5 years and have NEVER lost an animal from it. Just for grins while doing the drip method put a thermometer in the bucket and watch what happens to the temp in the bucket. You will be about 6-8 degrees lower than the tank by the time you add the critter.

OKIEDOKIE.......

 

[christosclowns]

I must say that i highly doubt it is your tank. If your other fish in there are fine i would not worry. I owuld say that who ever you bought your stuff from has problems in his tanks. The only bad thing about that is just hope that no bacterial infection or any problems your newly bought items had are brought into your tank