porcupine puffer help

drama3

New Member
I've had my porcupine puffer for 2 weeks now day 1 he swam around alot and no problems. Since then he hides in my rocks most of the time. I've only seen him go after any food once and that was some frozen krill. I only have the damsels and hermit crabs in the tank (210 gal) cause I'm adding slowly. Any ideas on what the heck is going on. All my tests are fine so i really don't have any idea, one of the reasons I wanted this guy is cause I heard how active and personal they are. Please Help!
 

gootz

Member
not too sure but he could just be a little shy. I have a niger trigger that NEVER likes to come out of my live rock but he is as healthy as anything...is your puffer accepting food??
 

evilss

Member
maybe you got unlucky and got the only one porc puffer thats not ral active. if you can see his beak maybe thats the problem. i know on most porc puffers you dont see much of the beak. maybe its gotten to large. can you post a pic?
 

gootz

Member
well too get his beak down offer some food on a rock.....he should scrap up against it.......u can also try to offer some shell fish..oysters, clams ...etc...........About getting him to eat it could be very difficult..With my niger, once in a while i have to place food with a stick or tweezer near his mouth sometimes even giving him a light tap on his mouth...That will spring the aggression in him to eat the food.....stay in touch
frankie
 

gootz

Member
i agree with evilss, my friend had a puffer whose beak got so large that he refused food and eventually died...It might be to late but try what i said before it has a good chance of working...please post some pics
 

drama3

New Member
I'll try to post pics asap, I tried guppies last night and that at least seem to up his activity. He was really interested in them and he came out from hiding and swam around so that was at least one positive. As of yet I'm not sure if he ate any, he didn't last night. But I'll check once I get back home and see if he has eaten any. Thanks for all the advice and I'll get the pics up soon!
 

scubadoo

Active Member
Puffer dentistry.....Some aquarists have attempted manually filing the teeth down, but this is most always very traumatic on the fish. With the help of Greg Bishop DVM, Kelly first began doing puffer dentistry using MS 222 (tricaine methanesulfonate) and a "Dremel" rotary tool, much like the instruments that dentists use on people. Their procedure was conducted as follows:
Make an anesthesia bath using MS-222 with enough aquarium water to obtain a concentration of 100 ppm. Note: to make this solution from a dry weight – 1 ppm equals 0.001 grams per liter. You can multiply the amount of bath water (in gallons) by 0.0038 [3.8 liters per gallon] to determine how many grams of MS-222 are needed here. Chemicals like MS-222 for aquatic husbandry may be obtained through your veterinarian or aquaculture supply companies like Argent Laboratories.
Place the Puffer in the bath for about 20-60 seconds to be anesthetized, then remove the puffer promptly to begin the dentistry. Use a stone cutting wheel blade (composite formed or diamond-tipped, like for cutting ceramic tile) to trim off the tip of the overgrown teeth. Then use a gentle grinding bit to file smooth the rough or uneven edges.
It may be necessary during the procedure to place the Puffer back into the MS-222 for additional durations of ten to thirty seconds if the fish begins to awaken, move, clench its jaws or bite you! You can trickle aquarium water on the gills (or through the towel cover) to make the surgery out of water a bit less stressful. The entire procedure should take less than a minute or two, though, with no harm to the fish.
Another option for piscine anesthesia is clove oil (Eugenol Usp: 4-Allyl-2-methoxyphenol). Dose and duration for this method, like other forms of anesthesia, is somewhat variable by weight of the animal and sensitivities by species and individual. A typical recommended dose, however, is 4 drops of clove oil per liter of water (about 15 drops per gallon) to make an anesthetic bath. NEVER dose clove oil directly in the aquarium! It is an effective anesthetic with short exposure, but works as an agent of euthanasia to fishes in extended baths. In a clove oil bath solution, fishes should respond within one minute typically. Weak or smaller fishes may require a lower dose (2 drops of clove oil per liter of water) for an extended period of time (up to five minutes) for anesthetic effect. Large or tolerant fishes may require a slightly stronger concentration. We do not recommend more than 5 drops of clove oil per liter of water to make this anesthetic, but you can add 5 ml of ethanol per liter bath water for improved results. Clove oil can be easily found at online pharmacies, laboratory supply houses, local drug and health food stores - often by the aforementioned trade name, Eugenol.
* Note: For small puffers, the use of a power tool may be awkward or too large. In such cases it may be acceptable to just use diagonal pliers (AKA "wire cutters") or cuticle clippers (Note: these are NOT the same as fingernail clippers… They are similar to miniature diagonal pliers) to snip off the tips of overgrown teeth quickly. Just avoid using such pliers on thick or large overgrown teeth.
Cutting/sawing (top) and grinding (bottom) Pufferfish teeth. Be sure to finish tooth edges cleanly to prevent rough edges or burrs from snaring food, nets, etc."
We strongly recommend having a second person on hand to help with the procedure. The need for assistance becomes quickly apparent for holding the specimen, prying apart the lips, using tools, and trickling water over the gills and body simultaneously at times.
Whichever anesthetic you choose, be sure to have a fresh bath bucket of clean aquarium water ready immediately after the procedure to allow for the aquatic patient to wake up slowly and without the risk of display inhabitants attacking their vulnerability. Place the puffer into the recovery vessel with a supporting hand under its abdomen to guide it into the water. The fish will generally resume swimming on its own within 90 seconds. You may want to add a dose of water conditioner with colloids to reduce the stress of handling. You could also add healthy dose of vitamins to the water to supplement the stressed fish.
Once alert and seemingly in full possession of its senses, return the fish back to the display, perhaps with the lights off for the rest of the day. Very soon afterwards, you will see the "patient" resume eating without difficulty and flashing a new "smile." While the fish dentistry is rather easy and effective, it would nonetheless be less stress on the keeper and the "patient" if such fishes were given a natural diet and habitat to reduce or eliminate the need for surgical action at all.
 

hoopty

New Member
Porcupine puffers are very shy when they are small and in a new environment. Give it some time and it will eat. Keep trying the guppies. My puffer was the same way when he was small. Now he is about 5-6 inches and he still will go for a couple of days before he eats. Just be patient.
 

drama3

New Member
Thanks for all the help he has been a little more active since trying the guppies and he's eaten the frozen krill a little bit more. I'm about to add a yellow tang to the tank so maybe that may help his activity by having some more fish around.
 
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