snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
I thought the forum would like to read something I wrote:
Protein Skimmers have been around for at least the last 60 years and have come in a wide variety of forms and efficiencies. The first protein skimmers were simple triangle pieces of glass that were fit into the side of an aquarium, and powered from the bottom up with a simple wooden air stone. Inside of the unit, there would collect on the glass a very slimy, brown and green sludge which would then be cleaned off manually (Goldstein 46).
Protein skimmers are also known as foam fractionaters. The purpose of a protein skimmer is to remove organic waste from the system before it has a chance to break down into ammonia. An efficient skimmer can remove up to 80% of the organic waste products that are produced in a closed system (Hunt 46). You can think about the bubbles in a protein skimmer like the bubbles from soap when you wash your hands. The bubbles act as a surfactant, gathering and denaturing proteins and other organic molecules. Denaturing proteins is quite common – adding heat to eggs makes the egg cook, but, the proteins can also be denatured by the use of vinegar or lime juice. The acids make the proteins unfold, which causes a change in its chemical structure. The process of violently injecting oxygen into saltwater denatures these proteins. In turn, the proteins become very, very sticky and pick up other, larger molecules and particles in the water column (Goldstein 47). The longer the contact time that the bubbles have with the water, the more debris the sticky proteins can pick up and deposit in the cup (Goldstein 47).
The benefits of having a protein skimmer is enormous. It removes this built up organic waste, which would otherwise be washed away from a reef in the ocean and broken down by deep sand beds later. Since we have closed systems, a protein skimmer is a great way to increase the long term success of any saltwater aquarium. By removing 80% of the potential waste from the system, and leaving about 20% of the waste in the system for the corals and macrofauna to eat, you are ensuring that everything in the system gets fed, and there isn’t an excess of nitrogen and phosphorus in the water column that could cause problems with nuisance algaes, dinoflagellates, and cyanobacteria. By using a protein skimmer, you are removing organic materials before it has a chance to break down into ammonia and nitrogenous waste which can weaken livestock (Brightwell 46).
There is some debate whether to skim or not to skim among hobbyists. In addition to removing organic wastes from the system, they have been shown to remove trace elements, including saltwater from the system. The other issues are that because the organic molecules are so sticky – they also remove food from the system that could have been eaten by fish, corals, and other desirable invertebrates. Other organisms are also removed by protein skimming, including beneficial bacteria, microscopic plankton (algae), small crustaceans and other zooplankton (Hunt 48). It is of my opinion that protein skimmers definitely have their place in reef aquariums large and small – and many aquariums do benefit from the addition of a protein skimmer. There are some systems – like fish only systems and some soft coral systems that shouldn’t need a protein skimmer, but rather regular water changes.
There are many factors which can affect the efficiency of a protein skimmer. The air flowing into the skimmer, the water being pushed through the skimmer, the bubble contact time, the aquariums temperature, salinity, pH, surface tension and types of compounds removed all play a key role in the efficiency of a protein skimmer (Delbeek 120). Manufacturers tend to run tests under completely ideal conditions and label their products accordingly – therefore a skimmer that is manufacture rated for a 100g tank may only skim a heavily stocked 65-75g aquarium. It is always a good idea to go “Plus One” when choosing a skimmer – which means take into consideration your size aquarium and then choose a skimmer that is rated for an aquarium one step up from yours.
The amount of air and water flowing into the skimmer determines how large the bubbles are and how much contact time they have with the organic compounds in the water. If the bubble size becomes too small and start to reach a supersaturation surface tension point, the bubbles will actually form larger bubbles which have less ability to hold organic waste, and the “foam head” at the top of the collection collar will collapse (Delbeek 120).
The typical pH of a reef tank will vary over the course of a day, but it will have an effect on how efficient the skimmer is. At the peak of the day, when the pH is the highest, your skimmer will foam the most – since the electrostatic attractions and affinity of organic molecules to the bubbles will increase. To make your skimmer more efficient, you should try to keep your pH between 8.0 and 8.3. The more stability that the pH has, because of a stable alkalinity (~10dKH), the longer the foam head will stay and the more particulate matter will form (Delbeek 122).
Temperature affects the efficiency of protein skimmers because as the temperature increases, the surface tension decreases. In water that ranges between 80*F to 90*F, you don’t expect a skimmer to be able to produce small enough bubbles for it to create a nice foam head. By keeping your aquariums temperature stable and below 80*F, you are ensuring that your skimmer is producing consistent results. However, the effects of temperature on dissolved organic matter can vary – because at a higher temperature you may be getting a different type of organic compound being skimmed out than if you were at a lower temperature (Delbeek 122).
Salinity has an effect on skimming because a higher salinity such a 1.026 means that there is more surface tension, which increases the amount of bubbles that are able to be produced. A lower salinity, such as in a fish only system of 1.20 has a lower surface tension and therefore the skimmer may not produce “ideal” results. However, the results of different salinities and skimmer efficiencies are dependent upon all else being equal (Delbeek 122).
There are many different types and brands of skimmers. There are hang on back skimmers that are great for aquariums that are not drilled. There are in-sump skimmers for those aquariums that are drilled and want a space saving setup. There are also skimmers that are recirculating and external – which means that you can pipe water to them and the pumps there will draw in air and water and send it back to the aquarium. Picking the best skimmer for your tank can be a very daunting task because of all of the options. Here are a few things to keep in mind when buying a skimmer:
If your aquarium does not have a sump and you do not have a lot of room or a separate room, consider going with a simple hang on the back design that has a low profile. If your aquarium has a sump, consider the size of the sump and if you can fit a skimmer into the sump. Pick a skimmer footprint that can fit down inside the sump. If your sump is too small, but you still have room for a skimmer underneath the stand, consider an external recirculating skimmer. The next thing to consider are brand names. Because this article will be outdated before it’s even published (in the world of skimmers), I suggest asking forum members about what brands of skimmers they like and trust. Usually, if a skimmer will function correctly, is easy to install and maintain, it’s a great skimmer – regardless of the price.
DIY skimmers used to be very popular in the hobby. Anything from a 20oz water bottle for a nano tank to a 5g mountain spring water bottle – and even Tupperware. Many aquarists decided to experiment with protein skimmer bodies on their own, and some of them even produced great results. Today, experimentation has led to many different styles of skimmer bodies. One of my personal favorites is a cone style in-sump direct pump fed skimmer. To me, these types of skimmers that have the pump directly inside the skimmer body are not only space savers, but also produce some of the best results. However, that can be argued about by nearly every other owner who owns a different style of skimmer. The most popular skimmers these days are needle wheel base (NWB) skimmers that draw in water and air into the needle wheel propeller to be “chopped up” into smaller bubbles – and pushed into the body of the skimmer.
Adding a protein skimmer to your aquarium is a decision most of us will make in this hobby. Many people will tell you that a skimmer is an absolute necessity. Others insist that it is not necessary at all. What you need to do is make up your mind and figure out if it is just one of the many “tools” that you will find useful to make your aquarium successful. It is not clear when you need to add a skimmer to your aquarium – if at all. Some people start their aquariums out with a skimmer from day one. Others wait six months or more before they decide to buy and install one. Other people opt for other pieces of equipment such as chemical and biological filtration systems which can also decrease nitrogenous waste. The problem is finding out if it is appropriate for you to go ahead and buy one. I personally do not feel like a skimmer is a necessity from day one. I think that an aquarium should start to establish itself over time without a skimmer and a skimmer be added six months to a year later down the line if water parameters are testing above range for that particular system. Utilizing a protein skimmer and cleaning it is perhaps one of the easiest methods of reducing organic matter in the water column, and therefore I believe nearly every system can benefit from it.
Troubleshooting a protein skimmer is rather easy. After your initial installation, it should take anywhere from 2 hours to one week to “break in” during this break in period, organic materials and oils are either being stripped or collected from the unit. You will know that your protein skimmer has broken in after it forms a foam head and starts collecting a thick, dark waste in the collection cup. If your protein skimmer is not removing dark skimmate, you may have your water level set too high and are just removing a very wet skimmate, which may resemble green tea. Try adjusting the skimmers water level down so that it froths. Making small adjustments down very slowly and allowing either a few hours or a day to catch up. Doing smaller changes and “tweaking” the skimmer is much better than large changes over a short period of time – you will never know what actually worked. Always keep your pump(s) free and clear of any large particulate debris such as large rocks, algae, and other things that may accidently enter into the pumps propeller and bind it. If your pump isn’t pushing water up and foaming into the main body of the skimmer, your pumps impeller may have been damaged. Take it out and check, clean it thoroughly – you may even submerge it overnight in vinegar to clean off any calcium/magnesium deposits. Your skimmers cup should be emptied once or twice a week. If your collection cup is very large, you might have to empty it less frequently. If the collar of the collection cup is frequently soiled with organic matter that is not exactly making it into the collection cup, try increasing the water level to try to get more organic matter inside the cup instead of on the collection cup collar.
In conclusion, protein skimmers are a very helpful tool when maintaining high water quality. A skimmer is a way to remove dissolved organic compounds before they break down into nitrogenous waste. A skimmer can effectively keep the pH high by removing excessive amounts of nitrogenous waste. Protein skimmer brands and styles are many – so the best way to choose a protein skimmer is by asking around on the forum what other people have bought and used. Picking a style of skimmer is as easy as knowing what equipment you already have. Knowing how to troubleshoot your skimmer will give you a great idea for the overall health of your system – If it is skimming too much, then there is excess foods/waste - and too little then you may be not feeding enough. Skimmers definitely have their place, and they are just another tool that is used by many aquarists – however, they are not the be-all end-all of filtration. There are many other ways to reduce and recycle Nitrogenous waste besides the use of a protein skimmer.
Citations:
Brightwell, Chris. The Nano-Reef Handbook the Ultimate Guide to Reef Systems Under 15 Gallons. Neptune City: TFH Publications, 2011. 46-47. Print.
Delbeek, J. Charles, and Julian Sprung. The Reef Aquarium: A Comprehensive Guide to the Identification and Care of Tropical Marine Invertebrates. Vol. 1. Coconut Grove, Fla.: Ricordea Pub., 1994. 116-131. Print.
Goldstein, Robert J., and Michele Bridges. "Protein Skimmers." Marine Reef Aquarium Handbook. 2nd ed. Hauppauge, N.Y.: Barron's, 2008. 46-50. Print.
Hunt, Philip Dale. "Protein Skimming." The Marine Reef Aquarium. Hauppauge, N.Y.: Barrons Educational Series, 2008. 46-49. Print.
Protein Skimmers have been around for at least the last 60 years and have come in a wide variety of forms and efficiencies. The first protein skimmers were simple triangle pieces of glass that were fit into the side of an aquarium, and powered from the bottom up with a simple wooden air stone. Inside of the unit, there would collect on the glass a very slimy, brown and green sludge which would then be cleaned off manually (Goldstein 46).
Protein skimmers are also known as foam fractionaters. The purpose of a protein skimmer is to remove organic waste from the system before it has a chance to break down into ammonia. An efficient skimmer can remove up to 80% of the organic waste products that are produced in a closed system (Hunt 46). You can think about the bubbles in a protein skimmer like the bubbles from soap when you wash your hands. The bubbles act as a surfactant, gathering and denaturing proteins and other organic molecules. Denaturing proteins is quite common – adding heat to eggs makes the egg cook, but, the proteins can also be denatured by the use of vinegar or lime juice. The acids make the proteins unfold, which causes a change in its chemical structure. The process of violently injecting oxygen into saltwater denatures these proteins. In turn, the proteins become very, very sticky and pick up other, larger molecules and particles in the water column (Goldstein 47). The longer the contact time that the bubbles have with the water, the more debris the sticky proteins can pick up and deposit in the cup (Goldstein 47).
The benefits of having a protein skimmer is enormous. It removes this built up organic waste, which would otherwise be washed away from a reef in the ocean and broken down by deep sand beds later. Since we have closed systems, a protein skimmer is a great way to increase the long term success of any saltwater aquarium. By removing 80% of the potential waste from the system, and leaving about 20% of the waste in the system for the corals and macrofauna to eat, you are ensuring that everything in the system gets fed, and there isn’t an excess of nitrogen and phosphorus in the water column that could cause problems with nuisance algaes, dinoflagellates, and cyanobacteria. By using a protein skimmer, you are removing organic materials before it has a chance to break down into ammonia and nitrogenous waste which can weaken livestock (Brightwell 46).
There is some debate whether to skim or not to skim among hobbyists. In addition to removing organic wastes from the system, they have been shown to remove trace elements, including saltwater from the system. The other issues are that because the organic molecules are so sticky – they also remove food from the system that could have been eaten by fish, corals, and other desirable invertebrates. Other organisms are also removed by protein skimming, including beneficial bacteria, microscopic plankton (algae), small crustaceans and other zooplankton (Hunt 48). It is of my opinion that protein skimmers definitely have their place in reef aquariums large and small – and many aquariums do benefit from the addition of a protein skimmer. There are some systems – like fish only systems and some soft coral systems that shouldn’t need a protein skimmer, but rather regular water changes.
There are many factors which can affect the efficiency of a protein skimmer. The air flowing into the skimmer, the water being pushed through the skimmer, the bubble contact time, the aquariums temperature, salinity, pH, surface tension and types of compounds removed all play a key role in the efficiency of a protein skimmer (Delbeek 120). Manufacturers tend to run tests under completely ideal conditions and label their products accordingly – therefore a skimmer that is manufacture rated for a 100g tank may only skim a heavily stocked 65-75g aquarium. It is always a good idea to go “Plus One” when choosing a skimmer – which means take into consideration your size aquarium and then choose a skimmer that is rated for an aquarium one step up from yours.
The amount of air and water flowing into the skimmer determines how large the bubbles are and how much contact time they have with the organic compounds in the water. If the bubble size becomes too small and start to reach a supersaturation surface tension point, the bubbles will actually form larger bubbles which have less ability to hold organic waste, and the “foam head” at the top of the collection collar will collapse (Delbeek 120).
The typical pH of a reef tank will vary over the course of a day, but it will have an effect on how efficient the skimmer is. At the peak of the day, when the pH is the highest, your skimmer will foam the most – since the electrostatic attractions and affinity of organic molecules to the bubbles will increase. To make your skimmer more efficient, you should try to keep your pH between 8.0 and 8.3. The more stability that the pH has, because of a stable alkalinity (~10dKH), the longer the foam head will stay and the more particulate matter will form (Delbeek 122).
Temperature affects the efficiency of protein skimmers because as the temperature increases, the surface tension decreases. In water that ranges between 80*F to 90*F, you don’t expect a skimmer to be able to produce small enough bubbles for it to create a nice foam head. By keeping your aquariums temperature stable and below 80*F, you are ensuring that your skimmer is producing consistent results. However, the effects of temperature on dissolved organic matter can vary – because at a higher temperature you may be getting a different type of organic compound being skimmed out than if you were at a lower temperature (Delbeek 122).
Salinity has an effect on skimming because a higher salinity such a 1.026 means that there is more surface tension, which increases the amount of bubbles that are able to be produced. A lower salinity, such as in a fish only system of 1.20 has a lower surface tension and therefore the skimmer may not produce “ideal” results. However, the results of different salinities and skimmer efficiencies are dependent upon all else being equal (Delbeek 122).
There are many different types and brands of skimmers. There are hang on back skimmers that are great for aquariums that are not drilled. There are in-sump skimmers for those aquariums that are drilled and want a space saving setup. There are also skimmers that are recirculating and external – which means that you can pipe water to them and the pumps there will draw in air and water and send it back to the aquarium. Picking the best skimmer for your tank can be a very daunting task because of all of the options. Here are a few things to keep in mind when buying a skimmer:
If your aquarium does not have a sump and you do not have a lot of room or a separate room, consider going with a simple hang on the back design that has a low profile. If your aquarium has a sump, consider the size of the sump and if you can fit a skimmer into the sump. Pick a skimmer footprint that can fit down inside the sump. If your sump is too small, but you still have room for a skimmer underneath the stand, consider an external recirculating skimmer. The next thing to consider are brand names. Because this article will be outdated before it’s even published (in the world of skimmers), I suggest asking forum members about what brands of skimmers they like and trust. Usually, if a skimmer will function correctly, is easy to install and maintain, it’s a great skimmer – regardless of the price.
DIY skimmers used to be very popular in the hobby. Anything from a 20oz water bottle for a nano tank to a 5g mountain spring water bottle – and even Tupperware. Many aquarists decided to experiment with protein skimmer bodies on their own, and some of them even produced great results. Today, experimentation has led to many different styles of skimmer bodies. One of my personal favorites is a cone style in-sump direct pump fed skimmer. To me, these types of skimmers that have the pump directly inside the skimmer body are not only space savers, but also produce some of the best results. However, that can be argued about by nearly every other owner who owns a different style of skimmer. The most popular skimmers these days are needle wheel base (NWB) skimmers that draw in water and air into the needle wheel propeller to be “chopped up” into smaller bubbles – and pushed into the body of the skimmer.
Adding a protein skimmer to your aquarium is a decision most of us will make in this hobby. Many people will tell you that a skimmer is an absolute necessity. Others insist that it is not necessary at all. What you need to do is make up your mind and figure out if it is just one of the many “tools” that you will find useful to make your aquarium successful. It is not clear when you need to add a skimmer to your aquarium – if at all. Some people start their aquariums out with a skimmer from day one. Others wait six months or more before they decide to buy and install one. Other people opt for other pieces of equipment such as chemical and biological filtration systems which can also decrease nitrogenous waste. The problem is finding out if it is appropriate for you to go ahead and buy one. I personally do not feel like a skimmer is a necessity from day one. I think that an aquarium should start to establish itself over time without a skimmer and a skimmer be added six months to a year later down the line if water parameters are testing above range for that particular system. Utilizing a protein skimmer and cleaning it is perhaps one of the easiest methods of reducing organic matter in the water column, and therefore I believe nearly every system can benefit from it.
Troubleshooting a protein skimmer is rather easy. After your initial installation, it should take anywhere from 2 hours to one week to “break in” during this break in period, organic materials and oils are either being stripped or collected from the unit. You will know that your protein skimmer has broken in after it forms a foam head and starts collecting a thick, dark waste in the collection cup. If your protein skimmer is not removing dark skimmate, you may have your water level set too high and are just removing a very wet skimmate, which may resemble green tea. Try adjusting the skimmers water level down so that it froths. Making small adjustments down very slowly and allowing either a few hours or a day to catch up. Doing smaller changes and “tweaking” the skimmer is much better than large changes over a short period of time – you will never know what actually worked. Always keep your pump(s) free and clear of any large particulate debris such as large rocks, algae, and other things that may accidently enter into the pumps propeller and bind it. If your pump isn’t pushing water up and foaming into the main body of the skimmer, your pumps impeller may have been damaged. Take it out and check, clean it thoroughly – you may even submerge it overnight in vinegar to clean off any calcium/magnesium deposits. Your skimmers cup should be emptied once or twice a week. If your collection cup is very large, you might have to empty it less frequently. If the collar of the collection cup is frequently soiled with organic matter that is not exactly making it into the collection cup, try increasing the water level to try to get more organic matter inside the cup instead of on the collection cup collar.
In conclusion, protein skimmers are a very helpful tool when maintaining high water quality. A skimmer is a way to remove dissolved organic compounds before they break down into nitrogenous waste. A skimmer can effectively keep the pH high by removing excessive amounts of nitrogenous waste. Protein skimmer brands and styles are many – so the best way to choose a protein skimmer is by asking around on the forum what other people have bought and used. Picking a style of skimmer is as easy as knowing what equipment you already have. Knowing how to troubleshoot your skimmer will give you a great idea for the overall health of your system – If it is skimming too much, then there is excess foods/waste - and too little then you may be not feeding enough. Skimmers definitely have their place, and they are just another tool that is used by many aquarists – however, they are not the be-all end-all of filtration. There are many other ways to reduce and recycle Nitrogenous waste besides the use of a protein skimmer.
Citations:
Brightwell, Chris. The Nano-Reef Handbook the Ultimate Guide to Reef Systems Under 15 Gallons. Neptune City: TFH Publications, 2011. 46-47. Print.
Delbeek, J. Charles, and Julian Sprung. The Reef Aquarium: A Comprehensive Guide to the Identification and Care of Tropical Marine Invertebrates. Vol. 1. Coconut Grove, Fla.: Ricordea Pub., 1994. 116-131. Print.
Goldstein, Robert J., and Michele Bridges. "Protein Skimmers." Marine Reef Aquarium Handbook. 2nd ed. Hauppauge, N.Y.: Barron's, 2008. 46-50. Print.
Hunt, Philip Dale. "Protein Skimming." The Marine Reef Aquarium. Hauppauge, N.Y.: Barrons Educational Series, 2008. 46-49. Print.
