QT. Filtration help required please.

tommyb1508

tommyb1508

New Member
Hi all, Have read a lot of your threads and thought advice was very fair and informative Thanks!
I have just joined and this will be my first post...so forgive if I go off track as it were!!!

I am in the middle of setting up my main display which will be FO saltwater tank.

Tank: is approx. 700ltrs after displacement and measure 60" l x 24" w x 30" h with 50"l x20"x16" sump. and separate ATO tank also.
It sits on a steel frame and I have just finished fitting cabinet doors and pelmet, along with tank background.

Our house is not the largest and space is at a premium to be honest , but I want to setup a QT tank for all fish before I introduce to main display.

So I have managed to nab the cupboard under the stairs, for setting up a QT station. I plan on running this 24/7 for as long as it takes really.

I pickup the QT tank this Saturday nothing fancy, size: 36" long x 12" w x 12" h. so approx 90ltrs or so.
Hope this will be large enough?

I have on order, 1x 150w heater + a backup, 1 x 9w Aqua Medic Helix UV, 2 x Jebao WP10 and twin controller, 1 x Seneye home version, 1 x 200 Eheim Airpump and other stuff. Boy its not cheap this game and this is only a qt tank!!!

Now here is my question please:
Due to space restrictions I don't have room for hang on skimmer nor is there room under for a sump etc.
I do have an area were I can fit an external filter.....PLEASE DONT SAY NO!! I have no other choice.
I plan on doing regular cleaning etc. on the filter more so thank on the main display sump I am thinking.

Does the same go for external filters as I've heard for Skimmers....the biggest you can afford and fit within the sump?

I have narrowed it down to one of the following units: Or if you recommend a better one?!

Eheim pro 3 250 also know as 2071 :
has 2 trays one will be for filters and the other for media.
And it's for 120-250ltr tanks
with flow of 950ltrs per hour.
the other
Eheim pro 3 350 also know as the 2073 :
has 3 trays one for filters and leaves the other 2 baskets for your media.
And it's for 180-350ltr tanks
with a flow of 1,050 per hr.

I hope I have not put you all to sleep and posted this in the correct section.
And I look forward to your replies...(Hope I get some!)
Thanking you all Cheers Tommy
 
tommyb1508

tommyb1508

New Member
Many Thanks for your reply.

I take it I have gone a LITTLE over board then...
I was told QT was very important kit should be as good as I could get for the fish in their early stages.
And that Filtration, water chemistry and parameters have to be kept at 100% as it would be a small tank with no sump or skimmer etc?????

I feel like!!.....Well don't want to say if you follow me.

Can't really change what I have for the QT setup now so should go for the smaller of the 2 Eheim I listed?
Cheers Tommy
 
silverado61

silverado61

Well-Known Member
If all your questions are about the QT, you don't need a sump or a skimmer. Nor do you use sand or rocks. Just a bare bottom and an HOB. Use an air line with no stone for aeration. Tie the air line to a piece of PVC with a rubber band. The PVC will give your fish someplace to hide. With your size QT I would put in a power head though.
 
kiefers

kiefers

Active Member
It is always a good idea to qt everything before putting things in your display tank. With that said you seem to be going over board on the qt. All you need is a tank with a few large pieces of pvc and a small powerhead for water movement, hang on the back filter, and regular light. Keep it simple and clean. I would also consider an air stone and heater. Good luck.
 
tommyb1508

tommyb1508

New Member
Morning All,
Many Thanks for all your replies and information. Very much appreciated.
My fault for not fully explaining my long term thought on this QT tank and Filtration and asking the question on which Eheim pro 3 external to purchase...Sorry!

Long Term: After I have purchased all the fish I want to have in the main display and after they have spent time in the QT tank...to be safe that all are well.
Taking that this will take approx. 3-4wks for each fish and its a 60x24x30 display that's a fair few fish, so potentially it could take 1yr to stock the main display.

After which time our back garden will be finished with raised decking area complete with a small 3m x 4m summer house.

The plain is then to make/purchase a frame or cabinet to house the 36" QT tank and then turn into a FO display.

But again don't rally want to run a sump on it. Thus the reason for asking advice on which of the mentioned External filter to purchase or other brand/model.

Thus reason for stating at the start not sure if this was the correct thread to ask the question.

Again my fault for not fully explaining the long term plan on the QT tank.

Your time in reading and replying is greatly appreciated, an I hope I have not upset you all in this reply.

Kind Regards Tommy
 
jay0705

jay0705

Well-Known Member
That's what we're here for, question and answer lol. My qt turned into another tank lol I use a hob , heater, air line and a ton of lr. Lol got a good deal on it
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
I pickup the QT tank this Saturday nothing fancy, size: 36" long x 12" w x 12" h. so approx 90ltrs or so.
Hope this will be large enough?

Perfectly fine.

I have on order, 1x 150w heater + a backup, 1 x 9w Aqua Medic Helix UV, 2 x Jebao WP10 and twin controller, 1 x Seneye home version, 1 x 200 Eheim Airpump and other stuff. Boy its not cheap this game and this is only a qt tank!!!

In my view, the UV is unnecessary. They will not kill all parasites nor 100% prevent your fish from getting parasites. You will need to observe closely for disease during the quarantine process, and treat according. Also, if you are going to use a UV anyway, then be sure to get a one that uses a quartz sleeve. To me, this is a high maintenance item that is expensive and certainly is not bullet proof in preventing diseases.

Air hose type pumps are inappropriate for saltwater aquarium. You need a pump that will move a good deal of water. Try looking at something like a MaxiJet powerhead, or some such.

Now here is my question please:
Due to space restrictions I don't have room for hang on skimmer nor is there room under for a sump etc.
I do have an area were I can fit an external filter.....PLEASE DONT SAY NO!! I have no other choice.
I plan on doing regular cleaning etc. on the filter more so thank on the main display sump I am thinking.

Lucky for you, skimmers are another item that does not have good use in a quarantine tank. If you need to treat fish for diseases, you don't want the skimmer to skim away medications. Also, a skimmer won't work under hyposalinity conditions.


Does the same go for external filters as I've heard for Skimmers....the biggest you can afford and fit within the sump?

This is true for display tanks, not quarantine tanks. Quarantines are temporary facilities where, ideally, you will house only 1 fish at a time, 2 if you have a mated pair, or a small school if you are aiming to have a school of fish.

I have narrowed it down to one of the following units: Or if you recommend a better one?!

Eheim pro 3 250 also know as 2071 :
has 2 trays one will be for filters and the other for media.
And it's for 120-250ltr tanks
with flow of 950ltrs per hour.
the other
Eheim pro 3 350 also know as the 2073 :
has 3 trays one for filters and leaves the other 2 baskets for your media.
And it's for 180-350ltr tanks
with a flow of 1,050 per hr.

These are good filters and either would be good. Just don't use carbon when you are medicating fish. Also, these will need to be cleaned, preferably after QT event once fish have been removed. When medication is removed, media will need to be replaced or thoroughly disinfected/cleaned out otherwise you risk contaminating your next fish with a disease it did not have to begin with.

Will you be using lighting? Its not necessary, but a good idea as you will want to be checking your fish closely for signs of fish diseases. Lighting and a magnifying glass help a lot with doing this.
 
tommyb1508

tommyb1508

New Member
Many Thanks Beth!
Sounds logical now you have explained. So very glad I joined your group.

Ok, Have tried to contact supplier to cancel the air pump an se if I can get credit off other items.

I have 2 x Jebao WP10 with twin controller for water movement, (not sure if I'd get away with 1 though', rated at 4,000lt/hr. plus the return from the external filter.

Oh forgot to mention.... got a very good deal on a Eheim pro 3 2073 or think its now called a 350, so will have plenty of recirculation and filter surface area.

I bought the Aqua Medic 11w Helix UV unit....yes it has the quartz you mention. again at a half the RRP. only reason I purchased.

Lights Yes! Not thought but probably LED to help with running costs and heat.
Possibly a home made 3 rows x 30" long water proof LED's
...say 2 out rows white and the middle ablue colour for night light???
Your knowledge would be appreciated, thanks!

So to follow on then, I only have 1 fish in QT at a time? it will take me years to get the display full at a 4week QT period?

I thought you could QT same genus at a time, thus why I went for a 36" long QT tank? So again I have been told wrong yet again, so glad to have joined.

Can I ask then please:

What order of Genus would you start QT adding to main display
(I have no idea just and example)ie. 1st clowns, 2nd Blennies, 3nd dwarf angles, 4rd chromis 5th Anthies, 6th butterflies, 7th Angles, 8th Tangs?

Could you qt 2 x clown, after which then say a bleenie and say a cleaner wrasse, and say 5 chromis, after which 2 or butterflies, after which 2 angles.
Or is it 1 at a time other than the schooling type?

Would you suggest a fresh water dip before placing them into the qt tank?

the main display will be FO only with a self made background which in time will turn live I hope, will become clear when I start the main display thread...well I hope you like it?

I was told that Its better to keep the salinity a little lower for better oxygenation and for the fish, is this correct and if so what level would you suggest please?

And will I keep a low salinity in the QT tank also?

Also do you add anything once you add your fish to QT or do you just keep an eye on them until you see anything out of place. Or can you add say something to help slime coat or the like.

Hope you an help in the above as and when you have the time.

Sorry for the questions.
Kind Regards
Tommy
 
beth

beth

Administrator
Staff member
I thought you could QT same genus at a time, thus why I went for a 36" long QT tank? So again I have been told wrong yet again, so glad to have joined.

Actually same species tend to fight more with each other then they do other species, unless they are mated.

Can I ask then please:
What order of Genus would you start QT adding to main display
(I have no idea just and example)ie. 1st clowns, 2nd Blennies, 3nd dwarf angles, 4rd chromis 5th Anthies, 6th butterflies, 7th Angles, 8th Tangs?
All fish you mentioned can be aggressive, even the smallest fish picking on the largest fish in the tank (go figure). I would start with the smaller fish you want to add first. Butterflies, wait until you have moderate exp with the hobby. Take care on angels and tangs as you will normally buy them small but they can grow quite big. You want to research each species to decide upon to see if you system and tankmates are compatible.

Could you qt 2 x clown, after which then say a bleenie and say a cleaner wrasse, and say 5 chromis, after which 2 or butterflies, after which 2 angles.

Two unrelated clowns will result in the dominate clown killing off the other, especially the same species. You can get a compatible mated pair. Chromis also, though schooling fish, will establish a pecking order from dominate to weakest fish and there will likely be causalities. All same specieis have the potential for added aggressiveness. I'd stay away from that unless they are mated such as clowns, etc.

Or is it 1 at a time other than the schooling type?

1 at a time is best, unless they are mated or schooling.

Would you suggest a fresh water dip before placing them into the qt tank?

I don't recommend FW dips at all. They are extremely stressful to fish, and they don't cure anything.

the main display will be FO only with a self made background which in time will turn live I hope, will become clear when I start the main display thread...well I hope you like it?

Not sure what you mean by a FO will time turn live? I would go with a FOWLR (fish only with live rock). They value of live rock and live sand in the tank can not be surpassed even by the most sophisticated and expensive equipment. They are the best natural filters in every imaginable way.

I was told that Its better to keep the salinity a little lower for better oxygenation and for the fish, is this correct and if so what level would you suggest please?

1.23 is good.

And will I keep a low salinity in the QT tank also?

No. As you introduce new fish, you should match the salinity and the conditions as much as possible to the conditions in the display tank. The only time you will need to lower salinity is to treat ich (hyposalinity).

Also do you add anything once you add your fish to QT or do you just keep an eye on them until you see anything out of place. Or can you add say something to help slime coat or the like.

You keep an eye on them, and treat only as a problem arises. Prior to acquiring fish, just scout out in advance some basic med source, such as formalin, maracyn two, seachem's cupramine. As well as have a refractometer. Don't buy meds in advance unless they are not available locally.

Lights Yes! Not thought but probably LED to help with running costs and heat.
Possibly a home made 3 rows x 30" long water proof LED's
...say 2 out rows white and the middle ablue colour for night light???

No need to spend much money on lighting for a QT. You just need to have a fluorescent strip with good lighting so you can observe the fish's body and health status.
 
skitzo7170

skitzo7170

New Member
silverado61 said:
If all your questions are about the QT, you don't need a sump or a skimmer. Nor do you use sand or rocks. Just a bare bottom and an HOB. Use an air line with no stone for aeration. Tie the air line to a piece of PVC with a rubber band. The PVC will give your fish someplace to hide. With your size QT I would put in a power head though.
Click to expand...
silverado61 what is the HOB? I am in the process of starting a quarantine tank. I see it is a very simple tank.
Thanks
 
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