QT tank

[cindyski]

ok, i am getting ansey waiting on my 125, so i thought this week i might set up my QT tank. i was going to look for a 10gal pkg(they say walmart carries them) you know with the filter and all. now, questions!
1. does a QT require special lighting
2. i would like to keep a damsel in it for biologial reasons and well for something to look at but what do i do with the damsel when i need to put something in the QT tank?
3. this might be silly, but do corals need to be QT'd? (that will probably answer my lighting question)
i will do the bare bottom, maybe put a broken flower pot & artifical plant in it and a black or blue background.

 

[dreeves]

No special lighting...corals can be dipped in a coral dip preparation...I use SeaChems myself...

 

[cindyski]

ok, any answers for queston 2???

 

[cindyski]

hmmm, somebody has got to know...

 

[col]

I have a gold chromis in my 10g QT
If you need to put something in QT and the damsel is bothering it, simply move the damsel to the main tank for a while.
By the way, this won't attract many replies:
hmmm, somebody has got to know...

 

[cindyski]

sorry col (and others) i guess i was just giving myself a bump.
a chromis is a good idea also, but if you put a fish in with (for instance) ick, do you put your chromis in your display tank until the other fish gets better and then switch it back?
and when adding to the QT with a brand new fish to make sure it is healthy, do you leave the chromis in?
i was told not to use any sand or L/R because they can harbor parasites
thanks everyone and let me know if i am on the right track

 

[col]

The purpose of a QT tank is to evaluate the fish that you have purchased
That is one purpose, another is to treat sick fish.
The trouble with ick is that if 1 fish gets it, there is a good chance all may get it. So realistically all fish should be put in QT and treated. In that case a 10g tank is not big enough -but where do you draw the line????
It is a tricky subject in my view. I keep a 10g with chromis so that it is always ready in an emergency. Otherwise (unless there is a good way of "feeding" the filter), it will need to be cycled.
Losdsa views on the subject, mine is this:
Keep a fish in the QT to have it always available. Move the fish out when a new one is added, and swap back later.

 

[cindyski]

thanks briggs, i would only keep 1 fish (chromis/damsel) in it, and for substrate, hearing mixed opinons, maybe just southdown and no l/s. sorry to be so confusing i anger myself sometimes
but, if i do choose to leave one fish in and no live rock or live sand, should i move the fish (chromis/damsel) to the display tank until i observe the new/sick fish???
thanks

 

[col]

^you beat me to posting ^

 

[cindyski]

sorry col !!!
but you gave me the answer i was lookng for, now i just have to decide about the substrate if any. i would provide a clay pot or somethng for hiding and an artifcial plant also

 

[cindyski]

briggs -- u dont have to shut up!! i would have some hiding places also, i am just saying no substrate cuz someone else on this board said not to do it.
BTW what is in your QT? & others? what are you guys keeping in your QT?

 

[col]

fish don't like the reflective bottom of tanks
Paint the bottom (outside).
Substrate or no substrate - it's no big deal really, not worth getting aggravated about.
Putting an ill fish in your main tank is worth getting worked up about!!!

 

[737mech]

I've read that if you have to treat the fish with an antibiotic or copper that the substrate and rock can absorb it making the treatment less effective.
My QT is a 20gal bare bottom tank with black pvc pipes laying on the bottom. Paint the outside black. Pvc is not supposed to aborb. Of course there's a heater, a emperor filter and a thermometer. It's just a temporary home. I also keep a fw molly in there so the tank is always running with a small load on it. I had to slowly acclimate him to the sw. He's been around for about 6 months now. He is very peaceful and never really cares about the new kid on the block, so there is no additional stress on the "new fish".
HTH

 

[cindyski]

so, 737, you leave the molly in the tank when you add another to the QT?
briggs congrats on the 180
and thanks for all your help guys!

 

[squidd]

If you ask 6 people a question you'll probably get 6 different opinions on how to do something...if you ask 10, you'll STILL get 6 opinions and 4 to agree/argue..
So I'll be #7...This is what works for me...
I treat a quarantine tank and a hospital tank differently, because they serve different purposes.
If I am "planning" a new addition/fish purchase...I will set the quarantine tank up (20gal glass) a few days in advance...using an Emperor 400 HOB filter with main tank water and a cup of substrate (with bacteria) in the "baskets". This gives the tank time to stabilize and impregnate the bio wheels with bacteria...
It also gives me time to research the fish I want...
The fish will stay in the QT with a piece of PVC "cave" and a 30watt NO bulb for observation for Three to Four weeks...as long as everything is going well I'll just do a 5 gal WC with main tank water once or twice a week during this period.
If the fish comes in with problems or someone in main tank need "treatment" the QT becomes a HT...
If the problem is ICK I'll use basically the same setup and do 'hypo salinity/raised temp treatment...
If the problem is bacterial or fungus in nature and needs 'Meds/copper" to treat...(i've never needed copper since switching to "hypo') I'll pull the Emperor off and use the substrate from the baskets/fuge in a "corner type" bubble filter...because I don't want to contaminate the bio wheels/filter.
Doing the "meds" according to directions (or sometimes modified directions from others with "experience") generally antibiotics which play "havoc' on the biological filtration...(which is why you don't want to "treat" in the main tank)... I'll do daily 5 gal WC with 'aged/aerated new saltwater or main tank water if the tank is healthy.
When the patient is healthy I'll tear the tank down wash it out and be "ready' for the next adventure...the "contaminated substrat gets tossed.
Since starting this procedure (with several fish)I have not had a sick fish or any recurrent "ick" outbreaks in the main tank.
I once had a Wrasse that after QT was still too small to put in the main tank with the "big boys" so I added a sand floor and some LR to make him comfortable, turning the QT into a "Hotel tank" for three months while he put on some size.
HTH

 

[cindyski]

yes squidd, very helpful
so basically for observation of a new fish, i could make the tank look decent. sort of a "fish hotel" as you put it so i could get maybe just some play sand for substrate a hiding spot/artifical plant, new guy comes in for 3-4 weeks then goes to the display, then another new guy could come in the "hotel" & so on. now, being used for this purpose should i put a shrimp or crab/snail in there? because there is obviously going to be algae growth. or am i just getting myself into a mess here incase someone does get sick and has to be moved into the hospital. though i know i am babbeling, but i guess i could put any critters in the main display, ditch the substrate as you said, treat the fish and then start over with the hotel, it wouldnt have to cycle each time because i would use water from the main tank. hmmm i am confusing myself lol

 

[squidd]

Now your confusing me...
I keep the QT 'clean" no sand etc...That way "if" there is a problem all I have to do is switch out the "filter" and treat...
Much less stressfull (to the fish) then pulling him out, taking out the sand/decorations, putting him back in,then treating,etc...
With a clean" tank you won't need crabs and snails cause "you" can easily clean the sides and bottom.
If "after" QT time you want to keep him in there in a "Hotel" setting...then you can add sand/decorations.
Clear as mud?

 

[cindyski]

lol, yea squidd, clear as mud

 

[737mech]

so, 737, you leave the molly in the tank when you add another to the QT?
Cindyski,
Yes, never been a problem for me.
JMO