woahwoah12
Member
I have a 40 gallon breeder right now. And i have a 10 gallon that's empty. My coral beauty has ich. So can I take water out of 40 gallon and put it into the 10 gallon with a filter and heater?
Quarantine
- Thread starter woahwoah12
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geridoc
Well-Known Member
Using water from an established tank won't work. The bacteria you need to detoxify nitrogenous wastes are not in the water column - they only grow on solid surfaces. Use some filter material or rock from your established tank, monitor daily for an ammonia spike, and keep something like Amquel+ handy in case it does.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by WoahWoah12 http:///t/394512/quarantine#post_3511328
I have a 40 gallon breeder right now. And i have a 10 gallon that's empty. My coral beauty has ich. So can I take water out of 40 gallon and put it into the 10 gallon with a filter and heater?
To get rid of ich you will have to remove every fish from the 40g. Otherwise after you cure your fish, and return it to the display, it will just get it again. Then ich could by sheer numbers, might kill the other fish. If it's your only fish: You can fill the 10g with water from the display, but you need to have a sponge or material from the DT so you have some good bacteria. Very little bacteria is in the water...it's on the rock, sand and any filter material.
I use those ammonia test strips, so I can do a fast check. Then if I see any spike at all, I do a water change. I keep a tub of mixed saltwater on hand and ready to go in case I need it. They do make those little badges you attach to the inside glass to be able to keep an eye on ammonia...A fast check is all that's really needed.
Just for my own piece of mind, to make sure you know, and for anyone else reading this post....Never do hypo in the display tank, and always use a refractometer to do hypo, the hydrometer is not good enough, because you need accuracy.
Originally Posted by WoahWoah12 http:///t/394512/quarantine#post_3511328
I have a 40 gallon breeder right now. And i have a 10 gallon that's empty. My coral beauty has ich. So can I take water out of 40 gallon and put it into the 10 gallon with a filter and heater?
To get rid of ich you will have to remove every fish from the 40g. Otherwise after you cure your fish, and return it to the display, it will just get it again. Then ich could by sheer numbers, might kill the other fish. If it's your only fish: You can fill the 10g with water from the display, but you need to have a sponge or material from the DT so you have some good bacteria. Very little bacteria is in the water...it's on the rock, sand and any filter material.
I use those ammonia test strips, so I can do a fast check. Then if I see any spike at all, I do a water change. I keep a tub of mixed saltwater on hand and ready to go in case I need it. They do make those little badges you attach to the inside glass to be able to keep an eye on ammonia...A fast check is all that's really needed.
Just for my own piece of mind, to make sure you know, and for anyone else reading this post....Never do hypo in the display tank, and always use a refractometer to do hypo, the hydrometer is not good enough, because you need accuracy.
woahwoah12
Member
So I can take water from the display put it in a 10 then get a rock from the dp tank and it will be ok?
S
saxman
Guest
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeriDoc http:///t/394512/quarantine#post_3511335
Using water from an established tank won't work. The bacteria you need to detoxify nitrogenous wastes are not in the water column - they only grow on solid surfaces. Use some filter material or rock from your established tank, monitor daily for an ammonia spike, and keep something like Amquel+ handy in case it does.
What GD sez...all used water does is add whatever pollutants are in it to your new setup.
If you're going to run hypo, be sure to use a buffered ammonia blocker such as AmQuel PLUS (not regular AmQuel) or Ultimate. The pH in hypo tanks tends to drop rapidly, so be sure to monitor the pH and have some buffer handy if it begins to drop. If you can maintain a pH 7.8, you're OK.
Here are a couple of good articles you should read:
QT Tanks:
http://www.lionfishlair.com/qt/qt.shtml
Understanding & Treating Cryptocaryon irritans a.k.a. Ich
http://www.lionfishlair.com/biology/ich.shtml
Originally Posted by GeriDoc http:///t/394512/quarantine#post_3511335
Using water from an established tank won't work. The bacteria you need to detoxify nitrogenous wastes are not in the water column - they only grow on solid surfaces. Use some filter material or rock from your established tank, monitor daily for an ammonia spike, and keep something like Amquel+ handy in case it does.
What GD sez...all used water does is add whatever pollutants are in it to your new setup.
If you're going to run hypo, be sure to use a buffered ammonia blocker such as AmQuel PLUS (not regular AmQuel) or Ultimate. The pH in hypo tanks tends to drop rapidly, so be sure to monitor the pH and have some buffer handy if it begins to drop. If you can maintain a pH 7.8, you're OK.
Here are a couple of good articles you should read:
QT Tanks:
http://www.lionfishlair.com/qt/qt.shtml
Understanding & Treating Cryptocaryon irritans a.k.a. Ich
http://www.lionfishlair.com/biology/ich.shtml