Question about a refugium

fangelillo01

fangelillo01

Member
So lets say that i eventually find a reasonable hangon fuge. If i put some sand live rock and some chaeto or other algae will the nutrients and bacteria from the fuge filter into the display tank therefore creating a simple help for nitrate issues??
 
clatong

clatong

Member
If I used the eggcrate method, how essential is the extra light on the macro algae? Would my main tank light be enough?
 
slice

slice

Active Member
Originally Posted by fangelillo01
http:///forum/post/3270125
So lets say that i eventually find a reasonable hangon fuge. If i put some sand live rock and some chaeto or other algae will the nutrients and bacteria from the fuge filter into the display tank therefore creating a simple help for nitrate issues??
I am about 6 weeks out from adding a CPR AquaFuge 2 Hang-on Refugium with Protein Skimmer, Small.
I *think* your wording of what happens is a bit backwards. As I understand it, nutrients, nitrates and such within the system (DT+fuge+sump+whatever) flows through the macro algae within the fuge and are consumed/converted/otherwise held harmless until they leave the system via harvesting the macro algae when it outgrows the alloted space (exported).
As an aside, about 2 1/2 weeks ago, I added a clump of Chaeto to my DT about the size of a tennis ball. It is now the size of a softball. My Nitrates have stayed ~10 during this time. Normally, they would rise to ~20 during this time, barring water changes. I've seen a slight bump up in Ph and an increase in water clarity.
I would suggest taking beaslbob's advice to heart, but he has warned of reputation damage from admitting dicipleship.....
 
beaslbob

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by clatong
http:///forum/post/3270129
If I used the eggcrate method, how essential is the extra light on the macro algae? Would my main tank light be enough?
At first I just used two little clip on lights pointed down at the refugium. Nothing much happened. But when I added the 2 4' 2 tube utility lights, nitrates dropped to 0 in three weeks from 80ppm+. (55g tank)
From that experience, lighting up the refugium is very important. But perhaps you don't need as much as I used. the lights are like only going through 1 inch of water so it is not like going through 2 feet of water so therefore do not have to be a strong as the overhead lights.
my .02
 
fangelillo01

fangelillo01

Member
Ok i understand now, from what our saying since i'm building a full reef plus fish a fuge is a must. Its just a matter of me getting the money together.
 
beaslbob

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
Slice
dicipleship.....

anyrate lower nitrates and higher pH are side effects of macro algae. high pH because the macros are consuming carbon dioxide as will as ammonia/nitrates/phosphates.
Glad it seems to be working.
 
fangelillo01

fangelillo01

Member
ok since i dont have a wet/dry and only have a HOB filter i would setup my 12 gallon tank that i forgot i had as a fuge NEXT to the display tank. Now if i understand right i should get sum acrylic or something to block off a section. Now i'm stuck at how do i get the water from my DP tank into the fuge than back again without a disaster. I'm having a hardtime figuring out this way to set it up or should i not even bother doin it this way.
 
fangelillo01

fangelillo01

Member
It is a tad confusing for me and important that i get it right cause i work all day and that leaves all my animals home PLUS my tanks so i wanna do it right. I cant stress about having two open air tanks so hopefully you can see my concern
 
mell

mell

Member
Totally in the same boat...2 open tanks and I'm at work all day. Last August had a seal break on my 55 and ended up with 55 gallons of salt water all over the living room floor while I was at work. What a horrible evening.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Are you planning on keeping fish in the set up?
How long did you have your 20G set up before you upgraded to the 40?
You'll need good lighting.
Good flow.
Probably a protien skimmer if you plan on keeping fish.
Those are just a few of the basics.
I'm planning on doing reef as well and I will definately be building a sump with a refugium in it. It will be housed in my aquarum stand underneath the tank. The sump will hold a protien skimmer, 2 heaters, a refugium and return pump. The doors on the stand will stay closed when I am not home so the dog doesn't get in it. Some things that I've learned while planning out my tank is that it takes patience, alot of research, money and a few fingers pointing in the right direction from our friends here at swf.com
A word of advise (not to discourage you) but be prepared to learn a few lessons the hard way. I know I have and that's why I try to do as much research as possible now before I buy or attempt to do anything with my tank. Ultimately I do want to have an awesome reef tank like many of the folks here but now I'm prepared to take it slow and save up my money as I am working towards my vision of the tank that I want to have and learning along the way.
Hey, you know anybody who wants some cichlids, mine won't quit breeding...

Quills
 
beaslbob

beaslbob

Well-Known Member

Originally Posted by fangelillo01
http:///forum/post/3270286
ok since i dont have a wet/dry and only have a HOB filter i would setup my 12 gallon tank that i forgot i had as a fuge NEXT to the display tank. Now if i understand right i should get sum acrylic or something to block off a section. Now i'm stuck at how do i get the water from my DP tank into the fuge than back again without a disaster. I'm having a hardtime figuring out this way to set it up or should i not even bother doin it this way.
Now you're thinking. get creative.
For instance, one hobbiest simply removed the filter material from an hob filter and added a light so chaeto would grow in the hob filter. Nitrates dropped to 0 in three weeks.
It des not have to be expensive or complicated.
Which is why I just emphasize macro algaes. You can do the rest.
Besides your ideas would be better then mine anyway.
my .02
 
beaslbob

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by fangelillo01
http:///forum/post/3270494
So any ideas how to get the water back and forth without making a fire hazard??
All continers in the system except the sump itself (by definition the lowest container need some form of overflow. Where as the water rises in that container it reaches a point where it starts "overflowing" and running down the drain to the next lower container. And when the power goes out the container drains to a certain point an the stops. On siphon overflows it also needs to trap water in the siphon. then when power returns the level rises and the overflow starts again.
At the sump, remember that as the levles in the higher containers rise, the level in the sump drops. And vice versa.
So under power out the water drained to the sump casues the sump level to rise. Hopefully the higher containers stop draining before the sump floods. So you adjust the sump level to where the happens.
then you fail the overflow. The pump can run dry before the container floods. So remove water until that happens.
With those adjustments you sould be able to withscane power ourages and power returns and overflow failures.
the rest is just making sure the plumbing is leak proof.
Some pvc overflow designs here:
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/vb/s...=beaslbob+trap
 
mell

mell

Member
Ya know, I'm tempted to maybe do the same thing. I don't want to screw up something and my husband kill me.
 
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