Question about dripping kalk

[temple2101]

I just finished reading Kips thread on dripping Kalkwasser (great info by the way!) ... but I just wanted to make sure I had it right before I start. So....
1. I'm using B-ionic and I need to get my levels where I want them first.
2. Once I am where I want to be, I begin to drip kalkwasser
3. After dripping kalk I do not need to add B-ionic unless my levels drop
Also, if my fuge light is not on 24/7 will I need to stop the drip until my lights turn on?
I've never done this before, and I've never kept SPS but I want to make sure everything is right before I start adding some frags. I know this is not as simple I stated above, but I'm just trying to understand the basics for now. Thanks!

 

[thomas712]

Everything sound fine. I do not stop my drip, it runs continuous with lights on or off.
Thomas

 

[temple2101]

Thanks thomas! one more question ... about the pickling lime, is that available at most grocery stores? Do a lot of people use that over the "brand name" stuff? Thanks again for the info!

 

[fishtanker]

i have read the Pickeling Lime is pretty mcuh comparable to the the Brand name hobbyist type. I did read that the food grade pickeling lime leaves more of a precipitate onthe bottom of the dosing container.
if you do a web search on Ball's pickeling lime or Mrs. Wages pickeling lime you can find web sites that sell it.

 

[thomas712]

If you can find that Mrs. Wags pickling lime than many foks use that. I ordered the EVS Calcium Hydroxide myself, can't find the Mrs. Wags around my area.
Thomas

 

[schneidts]

Originally posted by temple2101
Also, if my fuge light is not on 24/7 will I need to stop the drip until my lights turn on?

Actually, you'd want to drip during lights out, if you weren't dripping 24/7.

 

[schneidts]

Also, Kalkwasser powder from my lfs costs $7.99 for a 3.5 oz container. If you do a google on "Mrs. Wages", you can eaily find their site. A 16 oz. container is $1.85 there. Shipping for just that is $4.00. Pretty good deal if you ask me.

 

[kistheeze]

Originally posted by Thomas712
If you can find that Mrs. Wags pickling lime than many foks use that. I ordered the EVS Calcium Hydroxide myself, can't find the Mrs. Wags around my area.
Thomas
mail order - $2 a pound. Bought a 10 pack for about $25 with shipping. That's enough to last a long time - for me at least..

 

[temple2101]

Awesome, thanks guys! I just picked up a 5g Kent AquaDose today and will soon begin to drip kalk. I am currently trying to get rid of a hair algae problem first, and get my calc and alk levels where I want them, and then I will try the kalkwasser. A little off subject, but I have a very tight fitting stand (underneath) and am looking for a fuge light for a 15g tall ... any thoughts? Thanks!

 

[temple2101]

Yes, I am running a EuroReef ES5-2 ... I will start the drip as soon as I can. I posted this on a different thread, but I will post it here too...
Yesterday, I tested my Ca and dKH levels ... the readings were
Ca - above 500 (going to do another test today)
dKH - 8.0-8.6
pH at the time was 8.2 @ 5:30pm
lighting period is:
11am - 20W actinic on
1pm - 250W MH on
11pm - MH off
1am - actinic off
Does this sound like it could be right? It was my first time using a salifert test kit, so I may have done it wrong. However, if it is right, should I use just the alk part of b-ionic to raise the alk and lower ca? Thanks so much for the help guys!

 

[schneidts]

Originally posted by Kip4130
do you have a skimmer? ... if so.. go ahead and start a basic mix of kalk and drip it near the skimmer intake... this will help your hair algae....
Hey Kip,
I've heard that dripping kalk into the skimmer can reduce phospate, but could you explain why?

 

[temple2101]

Anyone got any thoughts on the Ca and dKH readings?

 

[schneidts]

Originally posted by Kip4130
hydroxide will weakly attract phosphate and attach to orgnanics which are carried out by the skimmer
i forgot... so i will add...
the reason the drip must be at the intake to the skimmer.... so that the hydroxide doesnt have as much time to gang up with co2 in the water to form carbonate
Ahhh...thank you very much.

 

[temple2101]

Man, I really do have a lot of questions... anyway, I just got done reading broomers take on ca, alk, and mag ... I noticed he said something about white flakey things in the tank ... lately, the past couple times I've dosed the alk part of b-ionic the minute I put it in the tank it flakes up, and slowy goes away, and then the tank is kinda cloudy for a while. I'm assuming that's not a good sign??? ... like I stated above, I think my ca and alk are pretty outta whack ...
Kip, I noticed in another thread you said to use baking soda to raise alk ... think that's something I should try? OR ... should I be doing some water changes over the next couple weeks to bring levels back into balance?
Man, after being in this hobby for a year I thought I had a good grasp on things ... only to realize I don't!!!

 

[schneidts]

Sounds like not enough time between adding the alk and cal. There is a chart in one these threads (authored by Kip, of course)
that is very helpful. Use his username and search for calcium chart or alk chart.

 

[temple2101]

Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it. I know all these questions probably get redundant, but thanks for taking the time to help. I think I am going to try some water changes over the next couple weeks and see if my levels begin to balance. I am going to continue studying up on dosing and hopefully after a couple weeks I will be knowledgeable enough to begin. My 2 main concerns now are balancing the levels and getting rid of that d*** hair algae. I tested my water and found no phosphates, and I tested my RO/DI water and found the same. I have had a very bad problem with hair algae since I started in this hobby, so I'm trying to find a common factor. But anway, thanks again for the help!