r/o and di filters..any alternatives to oem

I own a kent r/o di unit and the filters have to be changed. Does anyone use something similar at a local store..HD? I bought it used for $35.00..I have no manual, so if someone could email one I would appreciate it. In addition I guess I need to by a pressure gauge, flush kit and maybe a solenoid. Can these be bought at HD as well? Thanks again.
 

squidd

Active Member
The "pre filters" and "post filters" can be purchased from your local Hdrw store, H/D,...The sediment (in different "microns") and carbon filters are pretty much universal...
Change them often and the membrane (and DI cartridge) will last longer...
Membranes, DI, and "accessories" will have to be purchased from a LFS or "on-line" at either a marine supplier or a water purification specialist...
You "might" be able to get parts from a local "water treatment" outlet (Culligan, GE, etc...) but they tend to be "Brand specific/part numbers" orientated and generally not a lot of help in "cross referencing" parts that "will" fit... :rolleyes:
Most of the stuff is "universal" and adaptable, if not compleatly "direct fit", but YOU need to do the research and know what you want, because it seems like very few people "really" know what they are doing, behind the counter...
 
Squidd,
I tried to post a pic...There is a top filter(horizontal) and three filter from left to right...the far left filter looks like wound string..middle looks like a filter from my car and the right is the Di bed..which is considered the pre and post filter and which is the carbon?...(what can I get at home depot agian?) sorry, but I'm confused without a manual. Thanks again and I apppreciate the help.
 
the solenoid is only for automatic shutoff correct? I will be around to watch it, so maybe not necessary. How about the gauge? i can't just buy one from the well section at Home Depot? I haven't examined the unit but I don't know where the flush kit would hook up. Thanks Squidd.
 

squidd

Active Member
Yep, the "gauge" you should be able to get at the HD...along with the standard 1/4" poly compression fittings and adaptors you'll need to hook it up...
If you go to the Kent web site you should be able to download "installation and part's lists" for the back flush kit as well as the other "accessories" and then have fun "shopping"...:D
 

squidd

Active Member
As far as the "pre-post" filters above...
You can get a varity of filtration sizes and carbon combinations at the Hdwr Store...
In general you go from a 5-10 micron filter and then "finer" (5) and smaller (1) as you progress TO the Membrane...
If you are "drinking" the water place carbon after the membrane, if not, then befor is fine...
You can also "add on" extra "pre" pre filter stages and carbon/DI "post" stages as your needs dictate....
I started with a simple 3 stage "economy" unit and now run 6, with various outputs throughout the house, tanks, ATO, Mixing tub, Sink, Testing/Dosing station, etc...
As far as "Which are which"...You can follow the line from your source and then "through" one and then to the next, etc "prior to" (pre) the membrane and then the path coming out...
Off the top of my head I would say from left to right the first two are prefilters (course>fine) and then through the membrane...and the third a DI...
 
Squidd,
I looked at the parts...
the left container holds the string wound prefilter (buy hd)
the middle is the carbon block
the right is the di
but what is the top horizontal if any? Is it the membrane?
Thanks.
 

squidd

Active Member
At this point I'm gettng my resin cartridges from a warehouse distributor....(one of the "on-line" outfits has their warehouse near me) but I have been looking at an alternative ...
The AP "tap water purifier" is a DI cartridge at 1/2 the cost of a "brand name" cartridge...I just haven't got one in my hands to measure for "fit" and test output levels (yet...:D )
 
Here is what Home Depot had..
carbon filters- 5 microns for $10.50 or 1 micron for $25.00
String wound prefilter- 15-30 microns for $7.00 2 pack
I thought they would be better
 

squidd

Active Member
Depends on how "complex" a system your putting up...
Basicly there are jut three lines...
One from your source water..generally a "clamp on" pipe piercing adaptor...
One goes to "drain" or waste...again a hole or adapt a "T" to fit...
Third is output...as simple as sticking in a "tub" or replumping the entire house for ATO, mixing tub, testing/doseing ststion, and sink outlets...
Unit's generally come 90% pre assembled and just need to be "hung" on a wall or other convienent location...
 

squidd

Active Member
You "Top Off" with straight RO (fresh) water, because only the water evaporates..the salt stays behind..if you TO'd with salt water your salinity will climb..
For WCs you will need to mix (add) salt and aerate, heat and temp and salinity match your tank, so that would be done in a seperate container..
 
S

savage21

Guest
Squidd
How long will the RO water last in a closed container :notsure:
 

squidd

Active Member
"Closed" like sealed jug...pretty much forever...in a WC mixing tub...at least until you use it...(with cover on for "dust" etc...)
Just get as big a container as you can "use up" in a week or two...
 
S

savage21

Guest
thanks Squidd
hey i got anothe post in the DIY about lights can you help me out there :D
 
Top