R/O DI Equipment?

reeftank

New Member
What is consider a good R/O system? I've considered the Typhoon or Typhoon III. What about the ---- brands? The Typoon seems to br resonably priced or are there better deals for better equipment out there?
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Typhoon III are really nice units... Personally I would opt for the Typhoon over the ---- models... Really good customer service and a quality product... Not taking anything away from the others... I just ordered my Typhoon III last week...
 

fishphreak

Member
The Typhoon III i believe also has a 3 year warranty. I am getting one myself. I hear really good things about them on this site.
 

misfit

Active Member
I just ordered one my self hopefully it will be in tommorow.I ve read theat there really good,I hope im not disappointed
 

shoogieboo

Member
I orderd a Baracudda from aquafx my lfs said that because of our climate in La. we don't necc need the di just the ro anyone ever heard this before?
 

robchuck

Active Member

Originally posted by shoogieboo
oooops i just have the ro coming i'm sure it will be fine

If not, it's pretty easy to add a DI canister after the RO output, and it shouldn't cost any more than $50 to do.
 

dreeves

Active Member
The deionization canister will strip the water of any remaining negative and positvely charged ions. This will be accomplished via a mixed bed...or the two seperate resins in seperate containers. The purpose of the DI cartidge is to render the water as free of any ions (most up to about 99.99%) as possible...the aquarist then adds in only the sustances they want.
Someone above mentioned no DI due to locale or something...You must have some pretty pure water to not need one where you are...and I dont foresee that being the case anywhere in our country. A public water system is too large to monitor every gallon produced...
A DI catridge will only be beneficial to a system.
 

shoogieboo

Member
i understand and agree, unfortunalty i have just the 5 stage ro coming. the lfs only uses ro they said i didn't need the di i'm on a well system not public perhaps that made a difference...who knows.. thanks for your advice though:happy:
 

jjspati

Member
im in the market for one also and recommendations are leading me to the typhoon III to. wheres the best place to get one? the manufactures website or is there another site?:happyfish
 

golfish

Active Member
again, stay away from any of the 100 gpd units. These are drinking water membranes and not suited for our hobby.
 

dreeves

Active Member
If you are on a well...I would think you would need a DI canister. You have no idea what elements are introduced into your ground water. Copper being one of them.
As for the 100gpd membrane...I have never heard of such a thing concerning that. Volume will not determine the quality of the water produced...the rejection rate, quality and type of membrane will.
In anycase...if you decide to add a DI on later...it isnt that expensive nor difficult.
 

shoogieboo

Member
ok now you all are freaking me out i paid 172 for this thing its ro 100gpd and it has a drinking system.....at what point will i know if its not good enough water...i plan on starting out with 100lbs of live rock
 

dreeves

Active Member
Get a Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) meter...and check the output water for Nitrates and so on...
I do not know where the person above got the information about the 100gpd not being good for aquaria...I do not see where there would be a factor in the GPD of a membrane...there are some membranes out there that would have a hard time removing rocks...but as with everything else...you get what you pay for...
The DI canistor is usually just an add on canister. You can usually get the canister itself for about $15.00 and the resins from where ever for about $20.00. Some places will even give you a quantity discount for the resins by the case (which is what I do).
Your RO unit should be fine...a higher rejection rate as identified by the membrane maker is the key to go by.
 

robchuck

Active Member
RO/DI units with 100GPD membranes that are readily available to hobbiests only reject 90% of the dissolved solids that pass through the membrane, which puts more pressure on the DI beads and wears them out quicker. Whereas the 75GPD and slower membranes reject 98% of TDS, putting less pressure on the DI beads.
 

acrylic51

Active Member

Originally posted by shoogieboo
I orderd a Baracudda from aquafx my lfs said that because of our climate in La. we don't necc need the di just the ro anyone ever heard this before?

I would probably disagree with your LFS and your best bet would be to monitor the water before and after it leaves the RO unit to see if their information is correct or not
 
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