Random Reefkeeping #2

reefkprz

Active Member
welcome to another installment of random reefkeeping by yours truly.
There are many fish and creatures labled as reef safe that really are detrimental you a reef tank even though they do not eat corals. say your trying to get a mature deep sand bed adding a sand sifting goby will destroy the chances of your DSB ever fully maturing as the sand moving around, changing depth prevent bacteria from forming in set layers of aerobic anoxic and even anaerobic levels, though we do strive only for the aerobic and anoxic. Anaerobic translates to "all hell breaking loose in a closed system" to quote one of my favorite authors. sand sifting starfish are another of these creatures, in a smaller tank they will quickly consume all the benificial creatures and then starve to death preying on the leftovers over the course of many months. in a larger system they just keep the sand bed from maturing properly, they do help keep the upper layers aerobic but the damage caused by their ravenous nature on our little sand dwelling friends, is far more detrimental than any advantage recieved from the limited use of them keeping that upper layer aerobic. there are many creatures better suited to the task, such as nassarius vibex, or sand shifting crabs, even sand sifting cucumbers, which I think are cool as all get out. pick you reef dwellers carefully to reach a balance.
Cleanup crews, oh goodness where to begin? Well first I would say dont start a tank and throw in an entire cleanup crew sutied to your size tank, there isnt enough food there yet. Most of them will die. Start slow and add more at need, if you dont have a ton of algae, 10 turbo grazers will quickly turn into 5. Hermit crabs are a hit or miss item on the "clean up crew role call list" usually in my expirience they just do more harm or create more havoc than anything else. knocking about frags dropping them behind the rock work steling shells with frags on them, and killing snails from your clean up crew for a shell that may or may not fit. though some hermits can be fun for viewing pleasure I dont really consider them cleanup crew, even though they will decimate a fish carcas in no time, we really dont want to be providing them with fish carcasses do we? there are many ways to set up c a proper clenaing crew for your tank take your time and figure the direction you want your tank to go and what creatures will best serve your needs. Unfortuantly trial and error does turn into a trial and you will make many errors (we all do). again in this case proper research can save you a lot of headaches, just like with everything else in life, its easier to try something if you have a basic knowledge of what your attempting. I'm going to stop here and move on, I will probably adress this again in the future.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Cycling vs mature..... right. One does not mean another. Just because your tank is cycled it does not mean its mature by any sense, oftne times a new comer to the hobby will be mislead by a sales person into buying fragile creatures that dont fare well in immature tanks (*cough* anemone*cough*). They will be told once your tank is cycled you can add anything..... Well technically you can add anything, whether it is in the best interest of the animal or the store is up for debate. Depending on your tank and set up and how you set it up will speed or slow maturity. If you use mostly base rock with dead sand and small portions of live rock and sand it is going to take a lot longer for your tank to reach the same level of maturity as a tank that is started with all live rock and sand. A shallow sand bed will also reach its maturity sooner than a deep sand bed. its simple logic really you have far more area to mature and more strains of bacteria to develop to become mature. and bacteria has a set life cycle it take X amountn of time for X number of bacteria to reproduce. Generally you can consider a tank that has had minimal additions to it for 8-12 months fairly mature. if your adding new sand, new rock etc it does set back maturing a bit because you are introducing new life forms bacteria surface area and all these new additions need to go through their fluxes to reach stability in your close system. also if you have a hard cycle (very high ammonia over 1.0 for extended periods) you will slow maturation as a lot of the microfauna will die off and it will take longer for the populations to recover.
Salt. or maybe I should say, the best tank supplement ever. Thats right, I said that. You can actually save yourself a lot of money and headaches by just perfoming ample water changes instead of dosing with a thousand products. In some cases waterchanges alone wont be enough but if your tank is that heavily stocked you know it, and you know well what is being consumed (for the most part as there are still many things we as hobbyists dont have the capacity to test. People tend to get roped into thinking that the only way to bring up their calcium is to dose calcium, or to adjust their alkalinity they need to add kh buffer. Often a mere waterchange will solve their problem (or take a large step in correcting it) and fix underlying issues thay may not even know they have. Ph is low? Perform a decent waterchange, many times its something as simple as excess organic matter rotting the ammino acids from the breakdown lowers ph. Having algae problems? Make sure you kick up the detritus and do a waterchange to reduce the nitrogenous compounds in the water and the source of them (the detritus), as well as removing phosphate build up from foods. as long as you do a waterchange correctly (good saltmix, correct salinity and temperature) it can only do good for your tank. How do I know this? I feed my tank easily 15x more than most people reccomend the average reccomendation is anywhere from once a day to every couple days, I feed 5-7 times in one day and dont have nuiscance algae problems, I dont have nitrates, god forbid I would skip a waterchange though. Of course it isnt waterchanges alone that allow me to feed that much but it does play a signifigant part of it. but I perform a 25% change once a week and 50% once a month, sounds like a lot? if I do the math on it salt is cheap in comparison to almost all supplements out there on the market. in the end my corals grow faster due to being able to eat all they can handle they have no lack for any trace elements they desire, in the long run I would say I wind up ahead of the game by being able to frag and sell of clones faster due to the growth rates.
Well, I should say thats probably enough for now I am sure your tired of poring over my long winded thoughts and have been searching for the end of this installment of Random Reefkeeping. I did warn you that this would be nothing more than me jotting stuff down as I think, my mind radomly wandering through the many aspects of reefkeeping. in future install ments I will probably reiterate and go further into thoughts that I may have only scratched the surface on, but no gaurantees.
thanks for reading,
Erick Chambers
 
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cmaxwell39

Guest
Thanks for another informative read. One question though, would you recommend hermit crabs in you cleanup crew or not. I understand the pros and cons, but what do you do?
 

reefkprz

Active Member
I dont use them in my 75, I have 2 in my 65, I dont like them as part of the cleanup crew, maybe as a sump creature but not a DT addition for me.
 
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cmaxwell39

Guest
Thanks for the info on everything. Thanks for being willing to share your knowledge with all of us.
Look forward to future installments of "Random Reefkeeping"
 

aquaknight

Active Member
Another very good one. The only thing with water changes I would have like to see on there is that pH should really be considered/addressed when doing WC's, esp. large changes, which is pretty common in nano's that can't absorb the pH swing like large tanks can.
 
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