Rapid Pro PS4 Overflow

yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
A couple times now this has failed to start the flow of water to the sump after I stopped flow. I don't know why, possibly a air leak somewhere in the aqua lifter tubing. Anyone have any suggestions? Today I sealed the tubing attachment to the top of the overflow, I'll see if that helps tomorrow. This is important, as I can't have it flooding.
Please respond!
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Yeah a google will get me pics of the unit, but not actually what I'm after......I take it from alittle reading the overflow has a U tube? Have you tried adjusting the water height of the overflow box?
 
yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3278196
Yeah a google will get me pics of the unit, but not actually what I'm after......I take it from alittle reading the overflow has a U tube? Have you tried adjusting the water height of the overflow box?
It's down as far as it will go, is that the best spot?
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
When you shut the pump down on the tank does the water in the front of the skimmer box, where the front of the U tube is, does the water level drop below the U tube?
 
beaslbob

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
On my U tube I added a vavle to suck the air out and did have problems with air leaks there. Hopefully your fix will help.
Be sure both ends of the hob siphon remain under water and no air enters the siphon. When both of those are true the system will restart.
(you might consider a pvc overflow as well.)
Finally even with a failed overflow you should not have a flood. The sump pump should run dry before the display floods. When setting up a system I fail the overflow to insure that is true. If not I adjust the display level lower and remove water from the system.
my .02
 
yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
Originally Posted by beaslbob
http:///forum/post/3278353
On my U tube I added a vavle to suck the air out and did have problems with air leaks there. Hopefully your fix will help.
Be sure both ends of the hob siphon remain under water and no air enters the siphon. When both of those are true the system will restart.
(you might consider a pvc overflow as well.)
Finally even with a failed overflow you should not have a flood. The sump pump should run dry before the display floods. When setting up a system I fail the overflow to insure that is true. If not I adjust the display level lower and remove water from the system.
my .02
Firstly, thanks for all the help.
I have the auto refill tank, which has four gallons to replace evaporated water. The problem is, this water will be pumped into the dt if the overflow fails to restart.
The air removal system has one end in the overflow, and the end that takes in water is in the return line. This is how the over flow came. Should I move this end into the dt and close up the hole in the return line?
I've taken this end out, and put it under water, and the system starts right back up.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by yannifish
http:///forum/post/3278380
The air removal system has one end in the overflow, and the end that takes in water is in the return line. This is how the over flow came. Should I move this end into the dt and close up the hole in the return line?
I've taken this end out, and put it under water, and the system starts right back up.
This doesn't sound right to me for some reason. When I built my pvc overflow I used the aqua lifter pump to get the syphon going. The suction side of the pump was connected to the overflow while the output side was pumped into the tank with the end of the tube kept submerged under water. It's possible that when you are turning your pump off air might be backfeeding into your overflow and that could be causing it to lose it's prime/syphon.
Here's some pics of my pvc overflow...https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/vb/s.....DIY-Overflow
 
yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///forum/post/3278386
This doesn't sound right to me for some reason. When I built my pvc overflow I used the aqua lifter pump to get the syphon going. The suction side of the pump was connected to the overflow while the output side was pumped into the tank with the end of the tube kept submerged under water. It's possible that when you are turning your pump off air might be backfeeding into your overflow and that could be causing it to lose it's prime/syphon.
Here's some pics of my pvc overflow...https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/vb/s.....DIY-Overflow
The way it works is the suction side takes water from the return line, and through a t connection, one side going to the pump and on into the top of the u-tube. The output side of the pump leads to the back of the over flow box. Should I redo it the way your is? The problem is air is getting trapped in the top of the u-tube.
 
yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
How hard is it to drill a tank?
It is full, with live stock though.
How do you do it?
How close to the surface?
I have and all-glass aquarium. Is it possible to drill this?
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by yannifish
http:///forum/post/3278390
The way it works is the suction side takes water from the return line, and through a t connection, one side going to the pump and on into the top of the u-tube. The output side of the pump leads to the back of the over flow box. Should I redo it the way your is? The problem is air is getting trapped in the top of the u-tube.
Yes, I believe the suction side should be ontop of the U-tube and the output side in the back of the box. The purpose is to suck out any air from the U-tube because the air is what causes you to lose your syphon. Try that and I think you'll be good. What I belive is happening is when you turn your return pump off and water drains back into your sump from your return line then you're getting air in that line and that air is getting pumped into your u-tube...and that's what you don't want.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by yannifish
http:///forum/post/3278395
How hard is it to drill a tank?
It is full, with live stock though.
How do you do it?
How close to the surface?
I have and all-glass aquarium. Is it possible to drill this?
It is possible to drill but you'll have to have your tank empty...if you want, check out that link that I posted earlier, there is a whole discusion about drilling your tank. You can search videos on youtube and see how it's done.
 
yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///forum/post/3278396
Yes, I believe the suction side should be ontop of the U-tube and the output side in the back of the box. The purpose is to suck out any air from the U-tube because the air is what causes you to lose your syphon. Try that and I think you'll be good. What I belive is happening is when you turn your return pump off and water drains back into your sump from your return line then you're getting air in that line and that air is getting pumped into your u-tube...and that's what you don't want.
Thats exactly that's happening. The U tube has no water in it after the pump shuts off.
 
yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
Originally Posted by 2Quills
http:///forum/post/3278397
It is possible to drill but you'll have to have your tank empty...if you want, check out that link that I posted earlier, there is a whole discusion about drilling your tank. You can search videos on youtube and see how it's done.
I don't think I'll drill, I don't want to deal with draining the tank. Thanks though.
Thank you everyone for all your help!
I feel much more comfortable in the case of a power outage now.
 
beaslbob

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by yannifish
http:///forum/post/3278380
Firstly, thanks for all the help.
I have the auto refill tank, which has four gallons to replace evaporated water. The problem is, this water will be pumped into the dt if the overflow fails to restart.
The air removal system has one end in the overflow, and the end that takes in water is in the return line. This is how the over flow came. Should I move this end into the dt and close up the hole in the return line?
I've taken this end out, and put it under water, and the system starts right back up.
I am not familiar with that particular air removal system. One one of my designs I used two air removal tubes to a venture on powerheads. I have found that with U tube overflow siphons the air bubles tend to combine just past the curved part when the vertical drain starts. So I used two tubes one at the top of the siphon and another at the drain side.
But I can't tell from your design. But if you do something and it works more power to ya. Have you tried plugging the tube you removed with a finger and seeing of it starts back up?
The auto top off can and does screw up the adjustments I mentioned. When siphon fails the sump goes down and the ATO adds more water to the system. Only way I am aware to stop that failure is with a float valve that cuts off the pump should the display be above a certain level.
my .02
 
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