red slime algae
- Thread starter julius
- Start date
spsfreak100
Active Member
The "Red Slime" is not a true algae. Instead it's a bacteria. The proper name would be Cyano Bacteria.
Cyano bacteria is often caused with high phosphate levels or high nutrient levels. These can often cause outbreaks in cyano bacteria. I have also found that it's common to have these outbreaks when not using RO/DI water to start out an aquarium.
Water changes should really help (make sure you're always using RO water). Also Removing phosphate via phosphate sponge is an excelent way to remove excess phosphate in the aquarium.
Take Care,
Graham
Cyano bacteria is often caused with high phosphate levels or high nutrient levels. These can often cause outbreaks in cyano bacteria. I have also found that it's common to have these outbreaks when not using RO/DI water to start out an aquarium.
Water changes should really help (make sure you're always using RO water). Also Removing phosphate via phosphate sponge is an excelent way to remove excess phosphate in the aquarium.
Take Care,
Graham
julius
Member
As far as water flow goes in my 29gal mini reef I have 3 power heads. And I have a wet/dry filter with a fuval 304 canister filter to return the water back into the tank. I heard i dont need a wet/dry filter on a reef tank I have about 40lbs of live rock in the tank already. and ony 2 fish. Should i remove the wet/dry filter. and get some other kind of filtration for the tank.
shep
Member
had bad outbreak ouf that nasty stuff a year or so ago. someone was feeding fish and watching tank for me while i was on vacation. not sure what happened or what got nutty. everything checked good though. I took my hand and stirred it up and let the overflow get it for a few hours and then done 50 % water change over two days....it was all gone by the next evening and never came back.
shep
Member
Julious...no you most likely dont need a wet dry if you are doing reef and have at least one pound of rock per gallon (is general rule i have always heard). I will not swear by that in any way. However My cpr sump came with wet/dry and I left it there and it ahsn't hurt me any to have extra bio filtration on the tank.
macmaniac
New Member
I've heard that if you have bio-balls, your nitrates will be higher. But I have them in the wet/dry of my 40 gal and my readings are <5.0.
I've read that you can remove them (slowly, as stated above) and replace them with live rock rubble from the local lfs!
Anyone ever heard the same? Or actually tried it?
Jeff
I've read that you can remove them (slowly, as stated above) and replace them with live rock rubble from the local lfs!
Anyone ever heard the same? Or actually tried it?
Jeff
sammystingray
Active Member
How many have cycled without EVER seeing cyanobacteria? a lot.......I almost always blame slow water movement since ammonia, phosphates, nitrates , or whatever at any level will not always cause it.......I find it strange you have three powerheads, and I am at a loss.......cyanobacteria usually does VERY poorly in high water movement with good oxygen levels. It generally grows in slow areas where waste has been able to collect, and the cyano has been able to achieve anaerobic conditions......usually the sand since flow is almost always the slowest there, and gravity of course has allowed waste to settle.just don't know in your case..
dive1
Member
Red Slime algae is really bacteria (cyanobacteria). This is not caused by phosphates. The natural way of ridding the tank of this is to first skim off as much as you can. Then do a 50% water change. Several smaller water changes will not work. You will never get the bacteria down low enough to catch up.. I expect the tank is less that a yr old and I has not matured all the way yet.. After the water change cut lights back to 4hrs a day for 4-5days then start bringing the lights up 1hr a day till back to normal. Also cut back on feeding some. Another suggestion is make sure you have a deep sand bed of at least 3-4in. This will let enough good bacteria grow to help prevent this problem..If you just cannot wait You can use a product called chemi-clean by boyd enterproses, inc... you can do a search on the internet for thier phone # or where to purchase. After using wait 2days then do the water change...Their are no short cuts...good luck...
If your tank has 100gal and 50ppm nitrates, a 10gal water change has the following affect:
50-5=45ppm
45-4.5=40.5ppm
40.5-4.1=35.9ppm
35.9-3.9=32ppm
32-3.2=27.9ppm
27.9-2.8=25.1ppm
This example shows thatitrates are continously it would take over a week to reduce the concentration of pollution in your tank 50% with such small water changes.
This doen't take into account that nitrates are countinuously added to the tank via waste coversion.
You need to do a 50gal. water change to be effective and add a DSB to prevent further nitrate buildup naturally.
If your tank has 100gal and 50ppm nitrates, a 10gal water change has the following affect:
50-5=45ppm
45-4.5=40.5ppm
40.5-4.1=35.9ppm
35.9-3.9=32ppm
32-3.2=27.9ppm
27.9-2.8=25.1ppm
This example shows thatitrates are continously it would take over a week to reduce the concentration of pollution in your tank 50% with such small water changes.
This doen't take into account that nitrates are countinuously added to the tank via waste coversion.
You need to do a 50gal. water change to be effective and add a DSB to prevent further nitrate buildup naturally.