Reef Lighting Watts per gallon

aileena

Member
will keep you posted...:)
I remember you specifically saying that the BTA would do fine under my lighting...as for the other sps corals...time will tell...but all the monti's doin great thusfar
 

spsfreak100

Active Member

Originally posted by aileena
I remember you specifically saying that the BTA would do fine under my lighting

I apologize, as the Bubble Tip was mixed in with the quote. I was mostly reffering to the scleractinians :)
Take Care,
Graham
 
S

sebae0

Guest
watts per gallon is a store term and should be kept that way!@!!!!
so if thats the way it is i'll put a 1000 watts of no bulbs over a 100 gal tank and that will give me 10 watts per gallon right?
i'll bet you every or most of the corals i buy will die or suffer because its not INTENSE enough. mh is the best and you go down from there vho, then pc's.
you have to know the corals and what they require, listen to graham he speaks from experience, and i agree.
 

cindyski

Active Member
kip
i really wish you would have posted that before my MH debate. the whole thing could have been avoided if i had know i had to choose between one or the other! now i have mega dollars of VHO coming (more $ worth than MH) and i had already planned to start out with the softies! i could have saved my self a couple hundred dollars and had less vho and still had the softies.:rolleyes:
 

aileena

Member
currently for corals I have these softies and lps
hammer, kenya tree, and two different kinds of star polyps...
has for sps...
1 birdsnest, 1 green pocillapora, one orange plate montip, 1 wierd acro (blue tip?), and some various digitata montips (2 kinds). I have 60g w/ remora skimmer and do about 10g water change once a month (maybe more than a month sometimes).
so far never heard that chemical warfare was as bad as you describe it. I have read that placing them close together is a no no. so i have seperated them by a fairly good distance inside the tank. the sps are all near the top and the lps and softies in the middle....
only time will tell
 

aileena

Member
kipass,
I have no idea what "are lobophytum, sarcophyton, cladiella, sinularia, lemnalia, nepthea, dendronepthyea, and some zeniidae"????
its like me talking about res ipsa in tort law, instestancy, and res judicada...
I did understand no toadstool leather... ;)
the kenya tree I have is rather small, like nickel size, so I dont expect much problems now...
I am interested as to what those other things are though...
 

spsfreak100

Active Member
The only corals that are affected by the Sinularia and Sarcophyton are Acropora and Porites. The chemical released by the soft corals acts as a growth inhibitor (stops calcification process). But, I agree with everything Kipass said. Side to side, soft corals will almost always win the battle. Large polyped scleractinians do not have these toxic chemicals that soft corals do. Instead, they have some of the strongest nemotocysts which can string quite badly. Although, this can easily be avoided by placing corals away from any large polyped scleractinians.
Graham
 

the claw

Active Member
Lobed Finger leather, Toadstool, finger leather, finger leather,tree coral, tree coral, and carnation coral respectively. Now you see why alot of folks don't use common names.;)
 

the claw

Active Member
While your chimed in, how do zoanthids rate on this scale of warfare, and how about the different shrooms, from Ricordea to actinodiscus to Rhodactis????????????????
 

spsfreak100

Active Member

Originally posted by The Claw
Now you see why alot of folks don't use common names.;)

Common names don't refer to specific species and are quite general, and can often be misleading. As an example, a cauliflower coral could refer to a Pocillopora (Small polyped scleractinian) or Dendronepthyea sp. (Soft coral) :)
Graham
 
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