Reef Tank Health seems to be declining or not advancing. Please help

sjgsm

Member
Hello everyone, and thank you for reading my post. I am a long time reef tank owner here and as of late it has started to show decline. The tank first of all is 30gal 30"W/ 12 1/2" D/ 18" H. I tend to purchase coral frags from a LFS and over time have had some lovely colonies at some points. My assumptions of problems right now are Current (I never fully can understand the best way to get good current although it has never been throughly explained to me), Lack of darkness as I live upstairs and only have my light come on at night (set by timer) even on 80 degree days tended to try to get 82+ with the light on (a long time ago i noticed this and changed it). For this I purchased decent blinds for the room it is in (not direct sunlight as it is on the opposite wall of the windows) but still gets a decent amount of light. To further help this situation I am now building a DIY Canopy with velcro and a thick black curtain drapery (have been clothes pinning the same drapery as of the last couple days and have great reduced light to almost none during "night time." I also feel as if it could be a lack of magnesium or maybe something else as well? (I have no test and at this point in time I can't afford any of the saltwater test kits). My brother has allowed me to use his a couple times recently to check the basics which follows on average. (If you have any assumptions or knowledge as to what my problem may be feel free to chime in as much as possible. I am very open to any ideas as I just want whats best for my reef tank)
Nitrites - 0
Ammonia -0
Nitrates - around 4-5ppm
PH - Usually stays around 8.0 - 8.3
Temperature - 77-78
Salinity - 1.23 with a cheap coralife hydrometer
Feedings of once per day and sometimes every other day for corals (fish fed 2-3x daily pellet food and sometimes get rare frozen blood worm on top) of Coral Frenzy,Mysis Shrimp,Phyplankton,Food processed silversides (tiny tiny pieces),and Micro-vert(was worse about feeding corals a while ago and started to feed more to help growth and overall health). I spot feed them as much as possible with an old turkey baster and turn off all filters and only have one powerhead on to mix the food around for 2-3 minutes at a time. I also dosed Kent Essential elements, Kent Liquid Calcium, Kent Iodide every 2 weeks or so in smaller amounts, but have slowed down a little since my lps,sps species have faded away. I am planning on going to the LFS today to get my water fully tested by them and then if need be will buy small bottles of magnesium or whatever may be my problem. At this point it is too early to do so now as nobody is open. I have a tight-money situation so this has lead to my lack of testing and what not at this point. I also always use R/O water and tend to use coralife salt.
Corals:
Frogspawn started with 3 heads and after 1 year and about 14 heads is now down to one (each frogspawn would let go of the skeleton and get sucked into a filter or powerhead or just float to the back). Middle of tank.
Red/Green Blasto Frag started as one head and instantly grew 4 more (great poofyness and polyp extension), after about 3-4 months each head began to deteriorate. Middle of tank. Deceased

Toadstool
6+ inch top that's stalk started to show extra mucus (whatever it may be exactly) and would refuse to be where he was once happy for months. After letting go of his rock I eventually tried to rubberband his stalk to another, this only lead to him removing that part of stalk and floating around the sand endlessly. He rarely has a stalk now and at times it can get two inches of stalk and he extends polyps, but later that recedes. Middle left side of tank near side glass. now floats around freely as I can't seem to get him to take anywhere.
Green finger coral frag which instantly showed growth and then the bottom part turned black as it withered away. Bottomish left side. Deceased
Acropora frag which showed good polyp extension and grew double its size before the bottom tissue slowly came off (showing the white skeleton) and lead to the rest dying off. Was near the top left side of the tank at the time. Deceased
Duncans ( recent purchase four heads with skeleton growth of a 1/2" in 3 weeks. Decent polyp extension but seems picky at the moment as I noticed they tend to look more like whiskers and mine rarely extend so far) Middleish right side of tank.
Cinnamon Palys -small colony(look good 20 or so polyps after years...) Top right under Penguin, seems to like it there.
Lunar eclipse zoa frag (looks great 5 polyps, better heath then I ever had as red slime would invade the tank around the same time killing them off), top left side of tank under the aquaclear (seems to love its flow)
Orange ricordea which has two mouths and hasn't split after maybe about a year and lacks overall poofyness. Central part of the sand bed.
Elegance Coral
which looked good for a week (decent poofyness and polyp extension) and is slowly receding, sometimes poofing out with no polyps, have been wondering if it is due to clownfish brushing the sand and getting caught inbetween the skeleton and the soft tissue? Recently the toadstool floated and got stuck on it and it looks worse than ever where the toadstool was setting (as I would assume). Perched up on old frog spawn skeleton on sandbed to attempt to keep sand from entering... no luck... and since the toadstool the left side of it is dying, right side is still semi poofy and mouths look fine (has/had 4 mouths)
Blue striped mushrooms
which look great splitting quite often
Brown semi-fuzzy mushrooms
which look great and split rapidly as well.
Green semi-fuzzy mushroom
- Newer Frag, Was insanely big for a week or two ,even compared to fish store i got it from and then started to fold over the rock mounted on plug and has seem semi smaller ever since.
Green star polyps frag -
2 week old frag which showed great extension at first and now only has three to five polyps fully extended at a time (out of maybe 15 polyps)bottom closer in between middle and sandbed right side of tank.)
Red Montipora cap frag
Newer frag which seems to be doing good and has grown fairly quickly in two weeks. Middle left side of tank.
Meteor Shower Cyphastrea frag
- Newer frag that as far as I am aware is looking great, red polyps are full and extended out from the green base and shows brown growth encrustation on the plug it came with (grown at least 6 new red polyps) bottom right side of tank.
I personally believe I killed some other random frags of SPS by touching them with bareskin causing the skin to burn and eventually leading to the small frags deaths via the tissue dissolving/releasing. The above mentioned corals in bold were never touched with skin as I have used Vinyl gloves for a while now and was always as careful as possible anyways.
Equipment:
I have used two hang-on filters for about 3 years
Penguin Bio-wheel 350 The Penguin seems to grow more of the algae and has just one newer replacement filter on each side,and both bio-wheels (removed top and front which increased algae growth) - Back right side of tank going towards front glass
Aquaclear 70 <-- pretty sure its the 70, which was modded for extra flow.) I use these mainly as hang on refuges as they are growing chaeto,other various algae and coralline (which has removed my hair algae entirely from inside the display) The aquaclear has about 40 ceramic cylinder bio-modules placed in the bottom and filled loosely with small liverock. Back left side of tank with the stream headed downward towards the front glass.
Aqueon 500 powerhead - Top right back side of tank pointed at water surface and front glass (straight ahead)
PH-103 powerhead - Top left back side of tank pointed at water surface and front glass (straight ahead)
125w heater - keeps the tank at 77-78 even during the colder 47ish nights (also due to the mh being on at night)
250w MH - 22" above the tank as it seemed when it was closer to the tank would only worsen the extension of the polyps and I thought may have been part of the cause of the toadstool,and was during the time of the extreme frogspawn depletion. The corals show no signs of bleaching or lack of light at this point. Even montipora is staying colored.
I am currently in the process of building a 10g sump and refuge with the pvc overflow design.
Livestock:

Sailfin Tang
- Temporary home while my brother sets up his new 90gal. Seems to have plenty of room for the time being and is very social, loves food as well... lol
3 Clownfish
- Very large female which ended up turning black after the first stripe behind the head after 2 years,another who seems to want to be here male mate which I purchased at the same time is semi-smaller and has shown a little black but nothing compared to the female. One more clown which I bought since after 5+ years of the other two showing no signs of breeding and looked to see if it was due to either not accepting the other as a mate.
1 Green spotted mandarin female
- which has exploded in size and can't seem to eat even a minority of the pod population (her shape reminds me of a bloated great white shark :) ) I also have a small male in a desktop 12biocube sitting right next to me to help it grow off of the insane pod population I have in there before introducing it to my 30 and semi aggressive female that chased a male out of my tank (also part of why I am building canopy). Been alive for about a month, doubled in size from 1 inch to 1.75 or so inches. Huge belly and am getting fairly close to adding him to the tank
2 Mithrax crabs
- One white and one purple, which look exactly like emerald crabs,same claw size,same shape,maybe even slightly more docile. - Seem healthy when I can see them, always picking at rocks only
1 Cleaner Shrimp
- Very healthy and has grown double his original size
100's of brittle/serpent stars
which have been slowly growing one has gotten pretty large and shows a dark with white stripe pattern on the legs and little bristles (maybe 2 inch legs) I believe these were the result of a brittle star I had and a green and white serpent star breeding. The serpent star my brother gave me when he shut down his tank and both seemed to be around adult size at the time... I'm not sure though.
20+ Blue-leg Hermit crabs - some have had eggs on their backs which I have noticed when they reach out to flip themselves.
I also have some nassarius snails and cerith snails which are in small numbers now. Never much luck keeping snails alive and not sure why.
If I left anything out feel free to ask me and I will attempt to get you the info. Under will be some pictures that hopefully should work. If you have trouble seeing them I can try to send a direct URL link via imageshack. PS. Please excuse the poor camera I am using a 3g Iphone to take these
Lunar Zoa's

Montipora cap, The large female clown and a coral which I did not list (underneath the clown, the blueish purple polyps) because I do not know what it is. My brother loaned it to my because at the time it looked horrible in his tank and was worth trying to save with mine. Have looked great ever since. They remind me of a blue xenia mixed with clove polyp... not sure)

Elegance, left side dying, right side poofyish, you can barely see stuck sand and what not(assuming it is done for). Meteor shower on right.

Green semi-fuzzy mushroom, Green Star polyps and Meteor shower. Also hard to see is a blue striped mushroom in the bottom right as it somewhat matches the coralline.

Brown Shrooms
, large female in black and male underneath to the right. pay no mind the powerhead suckers on the left in the sand >.< .

Random blueish sponge on left and yellow one in middle. GPS coral inbetween them both below.

Palys below penguin filter. more on back or rock.

Duncans, Male clown on left, newer clown on right, sleeps with both the male and female on average.

Full tank shot - Water is much clearer then it appears(I did not wipe it down with a paper towel). You can see the orange ricordea in the middle of the sandbed. Can barely see PH-103 Powerhead in top left next to water heater. Right Aqueon 500 is just belown the penguin filter to the right a tad. Feel free to leave comments on how I should rotate these powerheads to make a nicer flow.

Shot of Aquaclear. Algae in this prevents display tank algae.

Shot of penguin. Noticed better algae growth with front and top panel off and I don't personally mind the dirty look lol.

Tank from far away, Sailfin in the middle bottomish.

Thank you again for taking time to look at my post. Please feel free to leave any opinions as to what the problem may be. Also if I have bad grammar anywhere please excuse that as I was in a rush and have to head to work.
 

sjgsm

Member
Forgot to mention that it has been ages since a red-slime invasion and that any of the red you see is a softer velvety type of algae? Also, I have a bunch of asterina stars which have been helping take care of any other algae and have never had a problem with them eating corals ( if they continue to grow and get large enough I may add a pair of harlequin shrimp to help reduce the population and as free starfish food as I have more of them reproducing in my pod tank.) I noticed they would only eat dying flesh if anything. I first noticed this when I would inject small aiptasias with limejuice and as they were dying the asterina starfish would finish them off.
 

sjgsm

Member
please excuse me, after re-reading this at work, salinity is 1.023 not 1.23 >.< . My mistake.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Welcome back!
After reading and re-reading, I've been thinking of a few things. First of all, is that crushed coral on the bottom of the tank? If it is, then you should probably vacuum gravel it out pretty well at your next water change. Second, I don't see any kind of protein skimmer or nutrient export other than the make-shift turf algae scrubber. Check your phosphates to make sure they aren't too high. High phosphates can affect the growth and survivability of some corals. You could try to increase your salinity to 1.024 to 1.026 ... especially for your corals. Most coral reefs thrive with a salinity of 1.026. I see you have quite a few fish in the tank as well - and you feed a lot. Your nitrates should be more then what you listed. Maybe a faulty test kit? What's your alkalinity like? Is it swinging back and forth... highs and lows. Maybe add an extra powerhead if you can manage it. Most of the time when something is going wrong in the tank - and all of your equipment is right etc. then you should look at your water quality.
If I think of anything else I'll chime in.
 

sjgsm

Member
Thank you Snakeblitz33!for the response and the welcome back! Been too long since I have posted.
Sandbed is a mix of crushed coral and premium white sand.
My problem with my protein skimmer was I had taken it out and could not find it after moving the tank a while ago.I found it in the garage earlier today while trudging through all my junk and actually just put it in probably as you were reading my post. So I will have to see if that will take effect and work out some of the kinks.That was horrible on my part not making the extra effort to find it earlier as I was waiting to put it into my sump/fuge in the making.Only thing stopping me from setting my sump up right now is trying to figure out the right flow from my 3/4" pvc overflow set-up and finding a return pump that I could afford and will work well with the flow of the overflow at this point. This will also lead to me pulling out the penguin 350 more then likely.
My algae has pretty much taken care of the phosphate issue as it was one of the ones I owned a test kit for fairly recently. It may be jumping up as of late so that I will definitely have to check as well though. I am currently going to purchase some tests and unfortunately my money is a concern at the moment so I was looking into the API tests. If there are any other cheap but accurate tests I would love to know by the way. My food is eaten up rather quickly by quite a few small bristle worms (which I actually trap regularly with a homemade pvc trap to limit the large ones at least),100's of small bristle/serpant stars,hermit crabs,cleaner shrimp and what not. Not saying this completely reduces the parameters but it has helped greatly from what it once was. I will definitely be getting a phosphate,CH/alk (never looked into checking this,So thank you very much for the tip), ph, and nitrate test for sure at this point.
I do have quite a bit of salt so I will try to slowly raise that over the next couple days to the SG you mentioned. I was mistaken when I thought a little lower in the scale was going to be better so I am very glad you pointed that out.
Faulty test is a possibility as I have had the Nitrate and ammonia tests for quite a while now. While reading which tests to get earlier today I did happen to see quite a bit out of people getting some poor readings so that could surely be a possibility. People were talking about the possibility of them expiring? >.<
As for powerheads,this is one of my bigger concerns since I am horrible at getting the flow I think I should have. I am currently sitting on about 1232 gph (aquaclear 300gph,penguin 350gph,aqueon 500gph,Ph-103 shoots out 82gph through a pretty small outlet and it seems to actually have the most direct velocity so I removed it today. I had trouble keeping corals like the frogspawn from being thrashed by the ph-103. I feel like I may need to find a way to regulate the flow or to redirect it in a different manner but can't seem to figure out the best way to do it at this point. If you could possibly help me figure out the best directions to aim my current that would be much appreciated. My problem seems to be the way the current deflects off the glass it manages to come back with a vengeance and blast the corals harder then I'd want. I really need to figure this out as it has made me need to put corals in only a couple areas of the tank.
Thank you again for all the info and I look forward to any responses and future thoughts you have. I need all the help I can get at this point.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Ditch your PVC Overflow mod thingy right now. If you have the money, buy an Eshopps Nano - it will save you a lot of heartache on the DIY setup. The nano overflow runs about $40. The pump I recommend using is a Rio 1100 for that particular overflow. Infact, I'm running it on my 20g. That pump costs about 23$ and is perfect for a little 10g sump.
It doesn't matter how much flow you have coming from your equipment - filters, skimmers, or sump pump - what matters is your internal flow rate. A 30g tank should have at minimum 300gph of internal flow which is 10x the amount of aquarium volume. Corals in the ocean face currents that are unimaginable and unable to be truly replicated in our aquariums. I would not worry about having too much flow unless your corals show signs of wear and tear.
Maybe something to do in your refugium would be to set up a turf algae scrubber - which is something that you are kind of doing with the algae growing on your filters right now. As soon as you cn you need to gravel vac half of your crushed coral out. Then do the other half in your next maintenance session. Just getting rid of the nutrients in your crushed coral bed will help tremendously. Whenever you can, replace the crushed coral with sand - a cup or two at a time. Sand will help stop the buildup of nitrates and phosphates in the substrate.
API makes perhaps the cheapest test kits. Test kits aren't everything in this hobby. I don't even test my water because I have a pretty good feel of my aquarium. If I see that something is off and a water change or two doesn't fix it, then I test. You have noticed that something is wrong - good job. Now, it's up to you to fix it.
 

1guydude

Well-Known Member
+1 i might test my water once a couple months or if something goes a stray and i need to figure it out!
good deal on getting ur skimmer back on!
Wat kind of filtration is in that bio wheel? I hear people take off the wheels and run other things in it!

also my friend snake is right about the internal flow rate...ur talkin about turnover rate!
U should get a couple nano korillias or tunzes...u can get one at a time if its better for u!
Id put at least two up front pointing towards the front glass and at each other....
Also some snails would help u out to my friend! See if u can trade half ur hermits for snails...u want more snails than hermits as they are critical in a CUC!
I run my reefs at 1.023 and i use a hydrometer as well....take a couple readings with it and average it out! Im getting a refractometer soon though!
Coral does do better at higher salinity and a temp of 80deg. However there is less room for error their! So to be safe i run mine at 78.5deg and 1.023!
Welcome back and i hope u get ur reef where u want it!
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
My first ever saltwater aquarium was a little 20g tank and I had crushed coral as my substrate. My fish and corals did great for a little while but after about a year and a half, everything started going down hill ... just like your tank is. I figured out that it was one main thing: My crushed coral was trapping and slowly releasing toxins and nutrients back into my tank. The tank eventually crashed - but that was after I had a 90g show and a bunch of 55g saltwater tanks to take care of (all with live sand!)
 

1guydude

Well-Known Member
off topic
hey snake is a show tank just ur "show" tank...kinda like ur pride and joy? Wat makes a tank a show tank? Guess thats wat im asking?
Just curious...ive heard people say it before...
 

sjgsm

Member
Thank you Snake for another reply as well as thank you to 1guyDude for your response.
I will look into purchasing one of those overflows although I may still try out my diy since I did spend the money and have it completely built. The powerhead you mentioned seems to be perfect and finding one for a sump under $40-$50+ was difficult. The Rios 6ft max head should be good I would think as my tank is slightly less then 4 ft from the bottom of the sump tank to the top of the display. I would assume the flow should still be decent at that point? If you think that may be strecthing the flow rate the Rio 1400 is only a couple dollars more at this point for 1/2 ft more max head and maybe forty or so more GPH.
My main problem with current is that my pumps do tend to shred LPS at this point if above the sand level, so I will surely have to invest in using more smaller pumps like 1guyDude said. Which by the way I slightly changed the direction of the aqueon to head more towards the water surface/middle of the tank and my GSP look much better today. I would say probably 90-95% of them are out as compared to yesterdays 25%. I noticed a slight browning from my montipora just now so I may have to attempt to move him towards the top middle of the tank where I see a bright spot. Problem is I have not been using epoxy or anything to stick frags to my rocks and it is on a disc plug. Also, its growth is actually pretty decent so far where it is. Maybe I should leave it there and wait for it to cone up towards the light? Duncans still seem a little short in the tentacles, do you know if that may be due to light? Should I wait at see if it acclimates where it is? It is still coming out fully as I can tell just a little stubby on the tentacles. It is one of my newer frags. As I mentioned before they have shown skeletal growth as well. Everything but the elegance seem fair off today (elegance: right side still pretty poofy but left side where the leather tumbled to is dying off) I pretty much lost hope for it but left it where it is for now.
1guyDude, as for the snails I am lucky enough that my brother is having cerith and nassarius snails breeding at a pretty rapid rate (many little buggers popping up all the time and not just eggs). I may try investing in some astrea snails, I would go Mexican Turbos but they are too clunky and will knock over my non-glued/epoxy corals at this point and time. Are there any reasons why my Astrea's from the passed have been dying on me? I'm not quite sure what elements they may be weak to in a common aquarium. Also, I actually rarely run the bio-wheels as not having them seems to help with the algae production anyways. Otherwise I run two of the generic sponge filters which have a small amount of carbon inside as well as some tiny LR rubble. I mainly use them like snake said, a makeshift algae scrubber.
Snake, when I went to the local fish store looking for tests I happened to only come out with a ten pound bag of premium white sand, which was on sale for only $4.50 :) . Should I just add that to the top or actually try to sift out the crushed coral and then add it? Either way is no problem.
Thank you very much again for your responses, I appreciate all the helpful info.
A picture of the GSP's for good measure :), sorry for the blurriness, cruddy iphone camera >.<
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Hi,
I'm one for having all kinds of different corals....SPS, LPS and softies all living in harmony.....but it takes work to keep them getting along.
Do you run carbon? That is the only way I know of to be able to keep such a variety of coral. 30g is a pretty small tank and if the corals are spitting out poison at each other it would explain the different ones acting up. I know SPS are very sensitive to mushrooms, they are fine with every other coral except the SPS, and The leather corals are another one for sending stuff into the water, they don't sting like a bubble coral or frogspawn but they send poison into the water. The elegance is very aggressive and stings but it could trigger the other corals into a mode of war.
The numbers on water tests won't tell you if you have chemical warfare going on. Also, SPS corals can't stand nitrates..5 is the top of their tolerance level. I was also warned that SPS does not do well in tanks with mushroom and leathers...they fight and must be kept far away from each other...a 30g tank is a tight area.....It wouldn't hurt to try and run some carbon and see if things perk up.
P.S.
I just read the last post from you....if your corals are stressed with the power heads and too much flow and shredding the tissue, corals bumping into each other or landing into each other would indeed provke an all out chemical war.
 

sjgsm

Member
Thank you flower for your informative response. I was aware of chemical warfare but not the whole extent of it. Because of your post I actually took a large bag of carbon out of my nanocube pod tank, rinsed it and added it to my aquaclear just now.
I do love how well carbon does work for pulling weird chemicals and what not out of tanks. I used the bag in my nano because my pod population received a huge population of pest flatworms at some point. I slowly sucked out a couple of pods and added a ton of bleach to the tank (tried different approaches prior), as my water was pristine but just could not get rid of the excess amount of flatworms. After an hour everything in the tank (bristle worms,flatworm, and pods) were dead. Then I added the carbon bag and it was removing the bleach at quite a rapid pace. Rinsed and repeated for the next week it pulled out all of the bleach. Now the tank holds the pods and a small male mandarinfish who is growing out until he can at least keep up with my shark of a female mandarin. Thank you again for the post and hopefully that carbon should help out. Feel free to comment if you can think of anything else! :)
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SJgsm http:///forum/thread/387383/reef-tank-health-seems-to-be-declining-or-not-advancing-please-help#post_3408451
Thank you flower for your informative response. I was aware of chemical warfare but not the whole extent of it. Because of your post I actually took a large bag of carbon out of my nanocube pod tank, rinsed it and added it to my aquaclear just now.
I do love how well carbon does work for pulling weird chemicals and what not out of tanks. I used the bag in my nano because my pod population received a huge population of pest flatworms at some point. I slowly sucked out a couple of pods and added a ton of bleach to the tank (tried different approaches prior), as my water was pristine but just could not get rid of the excess amount of flatworms. After an hour everything in the tank (bristle worms,flatworm, and pods) were dead. Then I added the carbon bag and it was removing the bleach at quite a rapid pace. Rinsed and repeated for the next week it pulled out all of the bleach. Now the tank holds the pods and a small male mandarinfish who is growing out until he can at least keep up with my shark of a female mandarin. Thank you again for the post and hopefully that carbon should help out. Feel free to comment if you can think of anything else! :)
LOL..Now my turn to learn something....
You reuse carbon???? I always thought it absorbed what it could and then you had to toss it and add new.....
 

sjgsm

Member
I have never had a problem with reusing it and I do tend to rinse/wash very thoroughly as well. May or may not have anything to do with it but even when I wash my hands I run them under water for about five minutes if I know I will reach into my tank lol. Either way I do know for a fact it was not holding enough to kill small inverts and even a fragile skinned fish like the mandarin. I would not know for sure how well it truly holds though.

Added: I have used the same bag of carbon for many years as it is as well. Even so it pulled the bleach out recently so who knows? I sure don't lol.
 

1guydude

Well-Known Member
ya i was under the understanding that carbon absorbs stuff till its full than leaks it back into the tank! Carbon ur "supposed" to throw away and buy new shiv every month.....Cemi-pure is supposedly good for 6months which is why i switched to it!
U should be able to get super glue gel at the dollar tree for a $1...come with like 3 tubes!
 

sjgsm

Member
I can see that being true as that is its job. Perhaps the thorough rinsing which usually includes it sitting in a bowl of water overnight allows for this to prematurely release? My father used the same method for his cichlids which if you read my profile will show you how well he truly raised them. I would honestly assume he was the best at it until he passed away recently. Capable of happily having 30+ african cichlids(starting off with a male peacock and female and then massively reproducing over and over) in a 20g tank. Even then they would still breed and he had the ability to keep them alive even while being such an easy food source with crystal clean water.
 

1guydude

Well-Known Member
lol no man....I wish! Ive got some like that but they arent that beautiful...im going to a frag swap here next month and hopefully ill be finding something that nice!
I do have like 20diff kinds though
 

sjgsm

Member
haha a zoa lover ey? Nice they are one of my favorites but everytime I would get them pest algaes would come right around the same time... My new lunar eclipses are doing better then I've expected this time though. You have a thread with some pictures of your tank? I would love to check it out.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
LOL guys....I'm going to toss my carbon, sorry SJgsm but you didn't give me enough of a reason to accept your methods as wisdom. Cichlids are so hardy I don't think reused carbon would mean anything.
I had African cichlids, I hated them. Thay are hands down the prettiest brightest colored freshwater fish....they remind me of damsels, another beautiful evil little fish. LOL...I think Oscars only die of old age, because nothing kills them..
 
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