refuge connect to wet/dry

baloo6969

Member
i'm missing something here, if it were me...i'd be VERY concerned about a siphon stopping, then overflowing...why not drill out 2 holes, thow bulkheads in, then connect them...why would you risk using the u tube? you will probably save money...but 2 or 3 overflows may cost more..
 

renogaw

Active Member
fyi, your sponge filter media is supposed to go in the blue square drip pan. not ontop of the bioballs.
the bulkheads will work fine IF he has the room to do dual levels under his tank. if there's not enough room, the utube would be necessary.
 

baloo6969

Member
Originally Posted by renogaw
fyi, your sponge filter media is supposed to go in the blue square drip pan. not ontop of the bioballs.
the bulkheads will work fine IF he has the room to do dual levels under his tank. if there's not enough room, the utube would be necessary.
i'm still really confused....yes if they are butted right next to each other you would have to take a different route to connect them. is the concern that the water level will be higher/lower in the fuge than the wet dry?
 

sly

Active Member
Originally Posted by baloo6969
i'm missing something here, if it were me...i'd be VERY concerned about a siphon stopping, then overflowing...why not drill out 2 holes, thow bulkheads in, then connect them...why would you risk using the u tube? you will probably save money...but 2 or 3 overflows may cost more..
I've used one for years. You have to set on up correctly. They work fine...
You have to size them correctly and you have to make sure that nothing gets into the tube (snails, etc.). Make sure that your topoff water does not splash up into the tube and your set. I have no problems out of my siphon. It has kept my refugium plumbed into the system for years.
 

sly

Active Member
Originally Posted by Cooqie
is that where i would make the bulk head hole
Make the hole at the top of your water level. If you make it down there your sump will drain down below where it should be.
 

hurt

Active Member
Anywhere below your bioballs will be fine. Where you have the hole will work. Remember your water level in your Wet-Dry(as long as the water goes to it first-as in my diagram) will always be the same, you will see no fluctuations at all in it. Your fuge is where the water levels will fluctuate if you don't have an ATO. Specifically the return pump chamber first.
the bulkheads will work fine IF he has the room to do dual levels under his tank. if there's not enough room, the utube would be necessary.
I disagree, it wouldn't make a difference at all. Your drawing has two tanks as well. As long as they fit under the stand, it won't make a difference at all if you use bulkheads or the U-tube. Cooqie can put each tank right next to each other, and as long as one of the tanks is raised(i.e. the wet-dry) it will work perfect. Drilling bulkheads would be a much better/safer option than the U-tube IMHO. All you have to do is drill a couple bulkheads in the wet-dry, then put a couple 90 degree PVC couplers pointing down to drain into the fuge.
 

hurt

Active Member
Originally Posted by Sly
Make the hole at the top of your water level. If you make it down there your sump will drain down below where it should be.
Not unless you just want a WET filter...without the DRY. If you put the bulkhead above the bioballs, they will be completely submerged and of course you will just have a WET filter. Putting the bulkheads below the bioballs allows for air to cover them as a Wet-Dry is designed to. The bulkhead on the Wet-Dry will only drain as much water as the overflow is feeding it with and that is why you will not have any problems.
 

hurt

Active Member
Perfect, looks great. You are much more talented with MS Paint than I. You don't NEED the bulkhead in the fuge however. You can put one in if you like, but it is not a necessicity by any means. Just drop your PVC line directly into your fuge and make sure to put 90' PVC coupler on the end of it to help out with air bubbles and salt creep. I'm not for certain if that is your final fuge drawing or not, but make sure to install a bubble trap in the first part of the fuge where the water will enter it.
 

renogaw

Active Member
your tank will be much better with a skimmer IMO. it can goin the wet/dry though.
the bubble trap would be a setup of 3 baffles instead of just the one you have there. two would be even height, one would be raised up about 2" forcing the water to go down then up and over.
 

hurt

Active Member
A bubble trap does just that. When the water enters your fuge it will have plenty of bubbles from the air in the PVC line. By putting in a bubble trap you restrict the bubbles only to the first chamber, so they do not block the light from your fuge light with salt creep, and they don't have a chance to make it back to your DT. A bubble trap also distributes the water more evenly throughtout your fuge. Here is a basic diagram of my fuge. The bubble trap is the first two sets of baffles on the right. All you have to do is reverse this design since your display tank drain/overflow is on the left and returns on the right. My system is set up the exact opposite. I personally wouldn't run a tank without a skimmer, but that's up to you.

 

hurt

Active Member
No, the drawing above the last is more correct. Just take out the very first baffle as the water enters the fuge, so the water is forced under the next baffle than over the next to the refuge chamber just as it is in my fuge diagram.
 

cooqie

Member
ok copy the one that is more correct n erase n put what i need to put because now i am lost and then i will see, please
 
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