refugium
- Thread starter cwgibson
- Start date
brucewrs
Member
Originally Posted by cwgibson
after you get the pieces and seal them with epoxy and silicone.
DO NOT USE SILICONE ON PLEXI GLASS.It does not stick well to it.Also router the edges of the plexi glass so when you add the Weld#3 it goes right in with no air bubbles. All you need is the chemical to adhear the glass together no silicone.
after you get the pieces and seal them with epoxy and silicone.
DO NOT USE SILICONE ON PLEXI GLASS.It does not stick well to it.Also router the edges of the plexi glass so when you add the Weld#3 it goes right in with no air bubbles. All you need is the chemical to adhear the glass together no silicone.
bojik
Member
Originally Posted by cwgibson
how about jb weld i have some of that. also how do i find out the volume of my fuge.
Length x width x hight / however many cubic inches to a gallon. I forget
Or take your cubic inch measurement and use this conversion thing on the web. http://www.metric-conversions.org/vo...to-gallons.htm
how about jb weld i have some of that. also how do i find out the volume of my fuge.
Length x width x hight / however many cubic inches to a gallon. I forget
Or take your cubic inch measurement and use this conversion thing on the web. http://www.metric-conversions.org/vo...to-gallons.htm
cgrant
Active Member
I just put my fuge together and used aga aquarium silicon.
Its a 40 long aga glass talk w/acrylic baffles from lowes but again i got the acrylic not the plexi-glass, i guess its different but not sure how?
I let it dry for a week while i was on vacation and they are in good, i even tried wiggling one around and it didnt move.
This is my 1st time working w/acrylic and am by far no expert on it but its working fine so far.
Its a 40 long aga glass talk w/acrylic baffles from lowes but again i got the acrylic not the plexi-glass, i guess its different but not sure how?
I let it dry for a week while i was on vacation and they are in good, i even tried wiggling one around and it didnt move.
This is my 1st time working w/acrylic and am by far no expert on it but its working fine so far.
T
thomas712
Guest
True acrylic cement is methylene chloride and is a carcinogen. It is best applied by syringe with a long needle to facilitate corner adhering, etc. No tape, clamps or other "hold-together" supports are needed. Only an architect's triangle and "T" sqaure are reqired to align the sides to the bottom and/or any inserts you plan on including.
By wicking the cement, capilliary action allows it to travel the length of the joint insuring a water-tight seal.
Acrylic:
The one big area ofter overlooked is the cut edge preparation before bonding. The saw action leaves a surface pitted and uneven. Due to the viscosity of the cement, (thin), these rough edges need attention before actual assembly. Then a propane blow torch set way, way low to sort-of flame polish the final mating surfaces.
There is a thicker viscosity cement out there that fills some imperfections when cementing, but not nessessary for this application, only on high pressure sensitive work.
Thomas
By wicking the cement, capilliary action allows it to travel the length of the joint insuring a water-tight seal.
Acrylic:
The one big area ofter overlooked is the cut edge preparation before bonding. The saw action leaves a surface pitted and uneven. Due to the viscosity of the cement, (thin), these rough edges need attention before actual assembly. Then a propane blow torch set way, way low to sort-of flame polish the final mating surfaces.
There is a thicker viscosity cement out there that fills some imperfections when cementing, but not nessessary for this application, only on high pressure sensitive work.
Thomas
brucewrs
Member
Originally Posted by Thomas712
True acrylic cement is methylene chloride and is a carcinogen. It is best applied by syringe with a long needle to facilitate corner adhering, etc. No tape, clamps or other "hold-together" supports are needed. Only an architect's triangle and "T" sqaure are reqired to align the sides to the bottom and/or any inserts you plan on including.
By wicking the cement, capilliary action allows it to travel the length of the joint insuring a water-tight seal.
Acrylic:
The one big area ofter overlooked is the cut edge preparation before bonding. The saw action leaves a surface pitted and uneven. Due to the viscosity of the cement, (thin), these rough edges need attention before actual assembly. Then a propane blow torch set way, way low to sort-of flame polish the final mating surfaces.
There is a thicker viscosity cement out there that fills some imperfections when cementing, but not nessessary for this application, only on high pressure sensitive work.
Thomas
Wow,You know your stuff Thomas..Very well stated...
.
True acrylic cement is methylene chloride and is a carcinogen. It is best applied by syringe with a long needle to facilitate corner adhering, etc. No tape, clamps or other "hold-together" supports are needed. Only an architect's triangle and "T" sqaure are reqired to align the sides to the bottom and/or any inserts you plan on including.
By wicking the cement, capilliary action allows it to travel the length of the joint insuring a water-tight seal.
Acrylic:
The one big area ofter overlooked is the cut edge preparation before bonding. The saw action leaves a surface pitted and uneven. Due to the viscosity of the cement, (thin), these rough edges need attention before actual assembly. Then a propane blow torch set way, way low to sort-of flame polish the final mating surfaces.
There is a thicker viscosity cement out there that fills some imperfections when cementing, but not nessessary for this application, only on high pressure sensitive work.
Thomas
Wow,You know your stuff Thomas..Very well stated...