return-line siphon break

posiden

posiden

Active Member
Originally Posted by Eric B 125 http:///forum/post/3166566
havent done it yet. even though curve balls are always thrown, i try to think (maybe over-think) of all the kinks i can iron out before getting started.
Well, I was waiting to see if you were going to do split returns. Since you are, there is no need to drill a siphon break. I am sure you returns will be nice and high in the DT. So, just make one of each of the splits up close to the surface. As you mentioned eairlier in the thread. Jas1 has a nice example of this in his build.
Post # 243.
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/362133/125-gal-upgrade/80
I wouldn't worrie too much about drilling the tank. I have seen some that look like swiss cheese. A local guy has a 180 with 8-10 holes, all in the back. The important thing is that they need to be good clean holes. I am sure 6 good holes is far better then 2 hacked up holes.
 
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eric b 125

Guest
thanks for the responses guys, and also for all the help.
mike, thanks for the heads-up on the hayward bulkheads, i'll check them out for sure.
posiden, thanks for digging up that pic. i think that's the direction i'm going to take this.
i really like the idea of a scwd, and also of using mostly flex tubing, so without a bulkhead anchoring the returns i dont see how either one is possible.
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
Your welcome.
I know it is done all the time by others, but I don't like letting the weight of the plumbing hang from the bulkheads. IMO, you should try to anchor the plumbing in some way. Flex or PVC, it is possible to do.
 
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eric b 125

Guest
yeah, i've thought of that as well. i'm an idiot when it comes to 'paint' but i'll try and explain my plan as best i can as far as the return plumbing is concerned.
from mag 12 return pump (since the sqwd wont handle a mag 18) i'll take a flex line up the center of my tank and ancor it with two "horseshoe" bolts drilled through the rear center brace. they should support the weight of the plumbing filled with water and any vibrations caused by the pump should technically be stopped there as well. then straight to the scwd where it will split to the 2 bulkheads. from each bulkhead there will be a wye loc-line so 4 flaired return nozzles total. i know mike was worried about the wye loc-lines but i think if i go the scwd route the pressure coming from each loc-line will be equal to the pressure of having only 2 return nozzles since only 2 at a time will be used.
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
Originally Posted by Eric B 125
http:///forum/post/3167809
yeah, i've thought of that as well. i'm an idiot when it comes to 'paint' but i'll try and explain my plan as best i can as far as the return plumbing is concerned.
from mag 12 return pump (since the sqwd wont handle a mag 18) i'll take a flex line up the center of my tank and ancor it with two "horseshoe" bolts drilled through the rear center brace. they should support the weight of the plumbing filled with water and any vibrations caused by the pump should technically be stopped there as well. then straight to the scwd where it will split to the 2 bulkheads. from each bulkhead there will be a wye loc-line so 4 flaired return nozzles total. i know mike was worried about the wye loc-lines but i think if i go the scwd route the pressure coming from each loc-line will be equal to the pressure of having only 2 return nozzles since only 2 at a time will be used.

That makes sense. There is a mod you can do to the loc-line that will give more water movement. You cut holes in the end nuckel making them suck in water. I believe they are refred to as penductors. I will see if I can dig up a pic.
 
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eric b 125

Guest
posiden, apparently -- and reefkeeping magazine do not support image hot-linking. i'll do a google search for penductors. thanks for the tip, btw.
 
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eric b 125

Guest
mike, as of right now i'm planning my plumbing around the idea of drilling. the way my mind has been working as of late, though, by tommorrow morning i'll be going up and over. i know that no matter how well-planned things can be, in this hobby there is always something that makes it so you have to tweak your plans. i have the overflow and return plumbing figured out in my head, and all the mathematics done on paper as far as how many gallons will be siphoned if i put the return nozzle at x inches below the water line, and how many gallons empty space i'll need in the sump, etc. if i can stick to my guns on the drilled return then i can focus on the rest of my sump plans, which have also changed greatly since initially visiting the sump/fuge idea.
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
Originally Posted by Eric B 125
http:///forum/post/3167884
posiden, apparently -- and reefkeeping magazine do not support image hot-linking. i'll do a google search for penductors. thanks for the tip, btw.

I guess I will edit that. It worked for a short while. I will grab the pic and upload it.
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
I believe I read that someone was using the fan nozzles with the mod.
I wonder if you could cutout the nozzle and get the same effect?
 
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eric b 125

Guest
i've never really messed around w/ loc-line before, since i've never had a sump before. it's flexible enough to aim it where you want it but it will stay where you put it for the most part, eh?
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
Yea, the nuckels are pretty stiff. Not sure how much metal working you have been around. Its pretty much the same stuff used on milling machiens, lathes, ect... to dispense the cutting coolant. Those are the blue and orange colored ones.
 
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eric b 125

Guest
i've worked a few lathes before, but never cared enough to notice. the reason i asked is because i want to be sure that the nozzles i will rely on to draw in air will stay pretty close to the height and angle i set them at. i figured they would, because if not, loc-lines would be pretty useless except for making messes.
 
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