Return Pump Overkill
- Thread starter ravechild
- Start date
tinmanny
Member
The by pass sounds good but I would not let it run above the water level or you will add bubbles right at the pump and your display will show this. I am using a mag drive and have valved it back just a tad that is no different than increasing the head height when you raise the outlet the pressure drops due to back load pressure it is stated on all good pump packages pressure is rated at 0' the higher you go the higher the back pressure and the lower the flow rate.
Manny
Manny
ravechild
Member
Originally Posted by tinmanny
The by pass sounds good but I would not let it run above the water level or you will add bubbles right at the pump and your display will show this. I am using a mag drive and have valved it back just a tad that is no different than increasing the head height when you raise the outlet the pressure drops due to back load pressure it is stated on all good pump packages pressure is rated at 0' the higher you go the higher the back pressure and the lower the flow rate.
Manny
I could however plumb it back over to where the water comes into the sump, then, by the time it gets back to the pump intake, all bubbles should be gone.
The by pass sounds good but I would not let it run above the water level or you will add bubbles right at the pump and your display will show this. I am using a mag drive and have valved it back just a tad that is no different than increasing the head height when you raise the outlet the pressure drops due to back load pressure it is stated on all good pump packages pressure is rated at 0' the higher you go the higher the back pressure and the lower the flow rate.
Manny
I could however plumb it back over to where the water comes into the sump, then, by the time it gets back to the pump intake, all bubbles should be gone.
hurt
Active Member
I have no air bubbles at all in my system from doing this. If you look at the above picture, the drain off the ball valve comes down below the water line. The ball valve is above the water line, but there are no bubbles coming back into the pump chamber off the ball valve line. This line is completely closed (no contact with air)
hurt
Active Member
. I am using a mag drive and have valved it back just a tad that is no different than increasing the head height when you raise the outlet the pressure drops due to back load pressure
I agree, but why make the pump act like it is pumping 8 feet (when you put only a ball valve inline) vs. making the pump act like it is only pumping 4 feet (T and ball valve). This just makes it easier on the pump.
I agree, but why make the pump act like it is pumping 8 feet (when you put only a ball valve inline) vs. making the pump act like it is only pumping 4 feet (T and ball valve). This just makes it easier on the pump.
golfish
Active Member
Well, I don't know a thing about the GX-8500. I do know that reducing the flow with a ball valve and or adding head pressure reduces the amp usage on pumps like Sequence Reeflo and Dolphin Amp Master pumps. I've been using Mag pumps for years and reducing the flow with ball valves.
I for one would rather have TOO much pump over too little of a pump. The idea of returning the flow back to the sump is a fine idea and I see no problems with that at all. If setup right it could stir up and detritus collected in the sump.
I say we all try to work together rather then work against each other...It ok to bust some bio balls once in a while but we got to keep things in check.
I for one would rather have TOO much pump over too little of a pump. The idea of returning the flow back to the sump is a fine idea and I see no problems with that at all. If setup right it could stir up and detritus collected in the sump.
I say we all try to work together rather then work against each other...It ok to bust some bio balls once in a while but we got to keep things in check.
ukcats
Member
Originally Posted by golfish
Well, I don't know a thing about the GX-8500. I do know that reducing the flow with a ball valve and or adding head pressure reduces the amp usage on pumps like Sequence Reeflo and Dolphin Amp Master pumps. I've been using Mag pumps for years and reducing the flow with ball valves.
I for one would rather have TOO much pump over too little of a pump. The idea of returning the flow back to the sump is a fine idea and I see no problems with that at all. If setup right it could stir up and detritus collected in the sump.
I say we all try to work together rather then work against each other...It ok to bust some bio balls once in a while but we got to keep things in check.
I am by no means a pump expert..but instead of just pumping the water back into the sump maybe do as i have done and "T" if off into a fuge and let the fuge drain back into the sump? Works 4 me anyway. Although you sill will have to restrict the flow somewhat a fuge should n't have that much flow (2200-600=1600). Either way..good luck.
Well, I don't know a thing about the GX-8500. I do know that reducing the flow with a ball valve and or adding head pressure reduces the amp usage on pumps like Sequence Reeflo and Dolphin Amp Master pumps. I've been using Mag pumps for years and reducing the flow with ball valves.
I for one would rather have TOO much pump over too little of a pump. The idea of returning the flow back to the sump is a fine idea and I see no problems with that at all. If setup right it could stir up and detritus collected in the sump.
I say we all try to work together rather then work against each other...It ok to bust some bio balls once in a while but we got to keep things in check.
I am by no means a pump expert..but instead of just pumping the water back into the sump maybe do as i have done and "T" if off into a fuge and let the fuge drain back into the sump? Works 4 me anyway. Although you sill will have to restrict the flow somewhat a fuge should n't have that much flow (2200-600=1600). Either way..good luck.