Return pump question

[mmstillwell01]

Hellow all,
If you have an overflow box the is rated for 600gph then what size return pump would you need?
Thank you.

 

[monsinour]

Quote:
Originally Posted by mmstillwell01 http:///forum/thread/381179/return-pump-question#post_3319039
Hellow all,
If you have an overflow box the is rated for 600gph then what size return pump would you need?
Thank you.
well, how much head loss are you looking at?
how many feet between return pump and outlet into tank?
How many 90 degree elbows are there between the return pump and the outlet into the tank?
How many 45 degree elbows are there between the return pump and the outlet into the tank?
How many couplings are there between the return pump and the outlet into the tank?
Add all that up and you get head loss.
Way long ago I found a nifty calculator to figure out head loss on the web. I cant find it now, but I'll bet if you google it, you could find it.

 

[mmstillwell01]

 

[mmstillwell01]

Sorry about the picture not very good 7 90's no couplings or 45

 

[monsinour]

If my memory serves me right, 3 90s = 1.5 feet + the 4 thats there should give you 5.5 feet of head loss. Whats at the end that is actualyl in the DT? Is it just the hose end or what? So when picking out pumps, see what ones do how many GPH at 6 feet of head loss. Keep in mind, you might have to install a T if you get a pump that puts out too much water.

 

[mmstillwell01]

it's a PVC pipe with a cap on the end and holes in the side.
is it better to place a ball valve on the line so you can reduce the flow if it's to much or would that damage the pump?
where would I install a tee?
Thank you for your help.

 

[monsinour]

So the end in the tank is capped closed with holes drilled into the pipe to let the water out into the DT?
Ball valve or T, your choice. The ball valve would allow greater fexability and control. But that is a fitting that will come into play on the head loss. As I said before, look at pumps with their ratings for 6 feet of head loss. Then again, my numbers could be wrong and that is more or less than 5.5 feet of head loss.

 

[gill again68]

If you use a ball valve to slow the flow from the pump then the pump will be under strain and will eventually fail. What I did was put a T before my ball valve and ran excess back to the pump return area. This allows the pump to run at full while also allowing the DT to get the flow I want. Works great for me. Maybe that will help?

 

[2quills]

A general rule of thumb when shoping for a pump is to add 1 foot to your head loss for every 90 degree fitting on your return.
I don't know...I haven't seen any information stating either way that using a valve to choke the flow a little bit on your return line will actually damage the pump. Personally I don't like the thought of it but I've had this discussion with other folks before and they say they've never had an issue.
But one thing that you could do is to go with a pump that you know for sure will cover the the head loss. Install a T on your return line right above your sump...then run a line from the T and have it drop back into your skimmer section. You can install the ball/quarter turn valve on that line and it will let you adjust the flow without accordingly. There's many ways to do it and one isn't necissarily better or worse than another, just personal prefference.

 

[monsinour]

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/381179/return-pump-question#post_3319607
A general rule of thumb when shoping for a pump is to add 1 foot to your head loss for every 90 degree fitting on your return.
I thought it was half a foot for every 90. I guess I was wrong.

 

[2quills]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsinour http:///forum/thread/381179/return-pump-question#post_3319609
I thought it was half a foot for every 90. I guess I was wrong.
To be honest with you I think it veries from pump to pump and the manufacturers...I think the power of the pump comes into play, some are stronger and use more watts. One of the major websites out there that sells equipment is the one who recommends the 1 ft rule as a general guide line for figuring the head loss.

 

[monsinour]

it would be best to err on the side of caution and go with 1 foot.

 

[mmstillwell01]

I asked a plumer and he said that for every fitting add 1-1/2 foot, he also help me make the design that would work for my system, several fail safes he had me install, there are five so maybe with all five, I can sleep at night and not think I'm gonna wake up to a flooded floor and a empty tank.
Thank you guys for all your help I love this site, if not for it I would have given up along time ago.

 

[mmstillwell01]

So now I have a 125gal tank 20gal sump with Skimmer, heater, bio-balls, media , 4' T-5 light system with a 12" x 12" LED light system on each side, a strip of LED moon lights, UV Sterilizer, two 1200gph power heads, live rock and sand.
is there anything else that I should have that I havent thought of or heard about?
I want to start getting some hard corals but I want to make sure that I have everything that I need first.

 

[florida joe]

IMO you need more then 600 gph turnover rate for a 125
forget my post i read 600 not 6000

 

[mmstillwell01]

I have 3000 gph should there be more? I thought it was 20 times an hour, my over flow box it rated 600 gph, but I have two 1200 ghp power heads.

 

[mmstillwell01]

I do have another question when I do my water changes do I still take the water out of the display tank or the sump?

 

[florida joe]

Take the water out of your DT and Vacuum if needed and the consciences of opinion for turnover is 10 to 15 times

 

[mmstillwell01]

So do you think I have to much turnover at 3000 gph in a 125gal?

 

[2quills]

3000 GPH turnover for a 125G tank = 24x turnover...sounds just fine to me for hard corals. 10x-15x should be adequate for most others. I think you're in good shape, regaurdless. JMO
What kind of fail safes did you use?