reusing bioballs in new tank?

[washowi]

Originally Posted by irondog
Well i justed started with the coral the same time i switched over to ro water,even use ro to top off,do water changes 10 gallons every 10 days was using instant ocean reef cyrstal but the alk is high like 12.8 after water was in bucket with heater an powerhead for 24hrs,i'm gonna switch to the new salt they got out its by red sea coral pro salt guaratees ph 8.2
calcium 450
alk 2.2-2.5meg/l
also have like 1000gph of powerheads in tank

I use Kent. If your Alk is high I bet your Calicum is low. check that. Remember your need to keep Calcium above 400 as a rule. I don't even check anymore. I let the corals tell me what they need. Remeber a coral reef is a living creature. Everything uses calcium to grow and build, so that is critical to keep the reef in good shape. But everything is important. If you have been in the hobby a while you will see, if you are new, test every 2 days for a while so see what your tank uses. Keep a log. After a while you will just add stuff like me. You just know.
Also as for water movement, I would say it is one one of most critical needs of your aquarium besides lights. I use Tunze's. they are expensive but will last a lifetime. When I first started in the hobby with my 55, I use 6 Maxi-jet 1200's in my tank. Those require cleaning al the time.

 

[irondog]

I have a bta kenya tree mushrooms green poplys zoo's lighting 1x150hqi 2x36 fluoresents
ammonia 0
nitrites 0
nitrates 10
phosphates 0.5
alk 11.8dkh 4.32meg/l
calcium 480
mag 1410
ph 8.2
temp 80
sg 1.024
tank been up an running 4yrs now only month an half with corals,plus my zoo's been in there 3 weeks now only a few open i'v been filter feeding corals with kent marine phytomax

 

[washowi]

Originally Posted by irondog
I have a bta kenya tree mushrooms green poplys zoo's lighting 1x150hqi 2x36 fluoresents
ammonia 0
nitrites 0
nitrates 10
phosphates 0.5
alk 11.8dkh 4.32meg/l
calcium 480
mag 1410
ph 8.2
temp 80
sg 1.024
tank been up an running 4yrs now only month an half with corals,plus my zoo's been in there 3 weeks now only a few open i'v been filter feeding corals with kent marine phytomax

Nothing wrong there ....You been at this longer than me!
Look at using DT's phytoplankton instead of the Kent next time to the LFS.

 

[saltfan]

Originally Posted by CGRANT
well i am fairly new to the hobby and have read that the two main things you need are a biological filter (like a trickle) aga #4 and a protein skimmer coralife ss 220.
My tank will only be fowlr, but dont have any live rock yet, new tank is a 210 and we all know that wasnt cheap so live rock will have to wait till next month.
I really dont have the time for a reef tank yet, probably will look into that more during next winter when I have more time.
No major water issues in the old tank, Just setup the new tank this past weekend so no water issues yet, but I know it needs to go through a tank cycle so everything will get out of wak on the new tank until its done w/cycle
Just take it slow, you'll be ok using Bio-Balls. It can happen with the nitrates, not saying it will, like the others, who are making you panic here. You have to clean them off just as if they were filter media, just not as often, as it does take some time for these things to get that bad. No worries, you have a tank already, you know how to set it up. Give it a lil cycle time, and you'll be ok.

 

[washowi]

Originally Posted by SaltFan
Just take it slow, you'll be ok using Bio-Balls. It can happen with the nitrates, not saying it will, like the others, who are making you panic here. You have to clean them off just as if they were filter media, just not as often, as it does take some time for these things to get that bad. No worries, you have a tank already, you know how to set it up. Give it a lil cycle time, and you'll be ok.

What you state is correct. I have no problem with that. However the response to this post is "He does not need bio-balls" There is no reason what's so ever for a marine reef tank to have bio-balls in the system if the tank has live rock.
I just stated to throw them away. Why mess with something that does nothing to beneifit your system only damage it possibly.
Todd

 

[thomas712]

Originally Posted by washowi
why you using bio-balls? ............. IF you have rock. throw the balls in th etrash. Nitrate factories is all they are.................... Period.
Todd
There of course are many ways to approach this hobby. There are more natural ways like using live rock and live sand with a good turnover rate. In the case of the wet dry with bio balls it can work just fine and without problem.
The above quote however is simply trash, plane propaganda trash like you read on the bathroom wall. Nitrate factory my

[hr]
! I'm so sick of the stupid reputation that these bio balls get.
Simply put they are covered with bacteria and are highly efficient at converting ammonia to nitrItes and you are left with nitrAtes. Same thing happens on every surface area in your tank that is covered with bacteria be it rocks, sand or glass...any surface area that has these colonies of bacteria covert ammonia in the same way, guess what your left with ....NitrAtes.
Got a mechanical filter of any type? HOB, canister or whatever, you'll get nitrates. Got dirty filter floss, filter pads, filter socks, you'll get nitrates. Internal or external overflows dirty you'll get nitrates. Poor water flow, dead spots on the sand bed, you'll get nitrates.
What I'm saying here is simple mainenance is all it takes to keep things going well.
Any responsible hobbyist will have a way to reduce nitrates, which we all are watchful of. Its simple problem vs. solution. Got a problem with the tank find the solution.
If the balls are dirty and collecting ditritus the clean them, if the filter pad is dirty change it, if your feeding to heavy cut back, if the tank needs a water change to reduce organics then do it. Skimmmer dirty - clean it. But no matter what you do you will not change the nitrogen cycle of ammonia to nitrItes to nitrAtes that happens on every surface no matter what, and you will be left with nitrAtes. Granted that a good healthy sand bed can convert the nitrates into a gas that will escape the aquarium harmlessly, granted that live rock will do some conversion as well, thus the appeal of the natural approach. If you want to quickly convert ammonia >nitrites > nitrates the use a wet/dry depending on the type of system you have and what you want to accomplish, its your choice.
But to blame bio balls for causing the nitrates is absolutely ridiculous, when the same events take place on every bacteria covered surface of the tank, might as well throw the tank away cause its a nitrate factory.
It's no problem for folks to evolve their systems and remove wet/drys or covert them so that they don't use bio balls and go with a more natural approach. For instance making the wet/dry into a sump, add a refugium whatever.
But don't blame bio balls for nitrates any more than you would any other surface of the tank. If they are dirty just clean them.
Thomas
P.S. washowi ~ I should add that this is not a personal attack on you, just my opinion as I see it, and this is addressed to everyone. I always willing to debate this bio ball issue. I've been through a wet/dry and have experience with them. I have evolved my system to remove bio balls and go with a 55 gallon refugium instead. I've been there.

 

[washowi]

Too each his own Thomas. Happy reefing.
BTW - What I sated is NOT trash. It is Fact. You use Bio-balls, then have fun cleaning them.
I take the natural way of maintaining a reef. If you choose otherwise, So be it. I will tel you to, They are not needed.

 

[thomas712]

Grant ~ using the established bio balls is an excellent way to start a tank since they are very efficant at converting the ammonia and nitrates, if you wish after cycling and you want to go a more natural way then removing them is fine, maybe plan on a refugium with macro algea down the road.

 

[saltn00b]

well last night i took out my bio balls, that i never cleaned for the 13+ months i have been running. (i never knew i should clean them?) i had 250 lbs of LR in my 150, so i decided to place some of the 'not-as-cool' rock in there place. this also opened up some more swimming room in the display for when i get my tangs / blue face. replaced the media, and did a 15% change. hopefully the trates will continue to drop now.
thomas thanks for chiming in, that was pretty much my thoughts on the bio balls, but i always knew that they werent 'as good' as using LS / LR. especially once a tank has been up and running for a year or so. thats also why i said what i did in the begining.
as of now i have about 4-5" rock layer in the sump. (or is it still a wet/dry ?). about 3/4" of rock is not submerged, but stays wet because of the water coming in from above, through the media. does this seem right? i will post a pic tonight.

 

[washowi]

Well if anything we got you to clean the balls right..
Just so you know I am not a hack aquarist. Here is my tank. It is 2 years old and never had Bio-balls ----ever.
Todd

 

[thomas712]

Very nice, Is that a scallop in the front?

 

[washowi]

Originally Posted by Thomas712
Very nice, Is that a scallop in the front?

Thanks
No that's a Derasa Clam. I have 10 clams in there now. Croceas's, Derasa's, Squamosa's, Gold Maxima's, etc. Buying another Crocea this week.
I am a clam junkie.
BTW they are great for reducing nitrates!!

 

[mr_bill]

15k hqi bulbs?
Sorry changing subject, trying to pick out new bulbs. :notsure:

 

[washowi]

Originally Posted by Mr_Bill
15k hqi bulbs?
Sorry changing subject, trying to pick out new bulbs. :notsure:

Yes they are 14K Hamiltons HQI. 2-400w with (2) 50/50-135 w PC's as well.
Alot of light in this 90G. I put a PAR meter in there and was getting 695 at the top and getting 280 on the sand. Basically, I can grow anything.
Todd

 

[jakebtc]

Originally Posted by CGRANT
well i am fairly new to the hobby and have read that the two main things you need are a biological filter (like a trickle) aga #4 and a protein skimmer coralife ss 220.
My tank will only be fowlr, but dont have any live rock yet, new tank is a 210 and we all know that wasnt cheap so live rock will have to wait till next month.
I really dont have the time for a reef tank yet, probably will look into that more during next winter when I have more time.
No major water issues in the old tank, Just setup the new tank this past weekend so no water issues yet, but I know it needs to go through a tank cycle so everything will get out of wak on the new tank until its done w/cycle

trickle filters are very effective for what you want to use it for just don't be in a hurry and keep reading

 

[promisetbg]

Originally Posted by Thomas712
The above quote however is simply trash, plane propaganda trash like you read on the bathroom wall. Nitrate factory my

[hr]
! I'm so sick of the stupid reputation that these bio balls get.
.
What's the matter Thomas..you getting burned out on all this stuff? I recall that YOU were the one that originally convinced me over two years ago, that bio-balls were nitrate factories..and that I should ditch them. :thinking:

Bio-balls can work..but they also work so fast they rob the LR's ability to do the filtering...a much more efficient way..IMO. They can become a source of nitrates..and often do. How many hobbyists tear down ther wet-dry to clean them..and how often? Realistically...very few.

 

[promisetbg]

Ever since I got away from using bio-balls..mechanical filtration of any kind,{except a skimmer of course} and started depending on LS and LR and Chaetomorpha to filter my water I have had far greater success. I will never regret losing the bio-balls...and even with FO tanks..I do not recommend them . I have never sold a single wet-dry to any of my customers..I have a brand new one sitting on the shelf collecting dust..LOL.

 

[washowi]

Here Here!!!

:cheer:
I thought I was the only one here who hates Bio-balls..

 

[cgrant]

This is interesting reading, I not 100% sold that bio-balls are nitrate factories though?
I can understand that food, etc can get caught in the bio-balls (so clean them) but my 55 gal has never climbed above 20ppm on the trates and thats usuallly when i creep up on the 1 month water change mark, I have seen several post where other tanks are hitting 100ppm trates and they dont have bio-balls. These tanks were in the 55 gal rang w/like 50 lbs of LR and a like a 3" LS bed.
I think if you dont maint. your wet/dry it will certainly cause hi trates but just not 100% sold that they are trate factories when proper maint. is used, like cleaning 1/4 of them during every water change, sure its a pain but better than loosing a fish, whats the average fish run ~50.00 & up for a 3"r
IMO...better to clean your balls than let them rot

I couldnt resist :joy:
p.s. Though in a couple of months when I get tired of cleaning the bio-balls a fuge will prob look sweet :thinking:
But dont you still have to clean the fuge?

 

[promisetbg]

I have three tanks.. none of them have wet drys, two have a fuge. I never show any trates in a test..0! A fuge does'nt have to be cleaned except to remove some of the chaeto..and maybe a quick syphon occasionally while you're doing wc's. Xenia is also a great exporter of nutrients..3 times that of chaeto. I grow it on the back glass in my 75..when it gets to be alot, I remove some with a credit card. It will climb the glass til it reaches the top, then grows horizontally.
Here's a pic that shows it ..I never let it grow on the rocks.