RO/DI question

tommykylie

tommykylie

New Member
Hi, I have been reading through alot of the post and see that many of you recommend RO/DI water filters. My tank has been running for about a year and I have only used treated tap water in it. I've never had a problem til recently I had an algae bllomm which I beleive was caused by a dirty cannister filter (tank has cleared up nicely since I cleaned it!!:joy: ). I'm wondering if I should switch to RO/DI or is my tap water OK to continue using?:confused:
If I do get an RO/DI unit could someone tell me what kind of plumbing work do they require? I know nothing at all about plumbing!! I have also looked at some of the units on **** and some have tanks and some don't. Whats the difference??I'm very confused!! :help: Thanks alot, Shelley
 
hogg14

hogg14

New Member
do you live near a Wal-Mart?
They sell RO water for 33 cents a gallon.
A lot cheaper than buying a $200-300 system
 
fishphreak

fishphreak

Member
I use RO water for this reason: There is already risk involved with a saltwater aquarium and I don't want to add to that risk by using tap water. I used tap water at first and switched to RO, I never had a problem with my tap water but I just felt that it was an unnecessary risk to take.
If you have a fairly small tank it may be more convient for you to buy RO water from the grocery store or your LFS. I pay $.50 per gallon for mine, I think that is about average.
I think there is no plumbing involved with most RO units. I think most just attach to your sink or garden hose with an adapter that usually comes with the unit.
I am getting an RO unit myself and have spoken to the water company about how much a 100 GPD unit for my 75 gallon tank with a 3:1 ratio would increase my water bill. And they said they charge by the thousand gallons so should only see an increase of about $2-5 a month!
So eventually a RO unit should even save you money. It should be less to make it yourself rather than buy it from somewhere else.
Jessica
 
reefnut

reefnut

Active Member
I agree with FishPhreak...
Buying a unit is cheaper in the long run...
The plumbing is very simple. All you need is a supply line (1/4" tubing) and a waste water line (1/4 tubing). Both are provided with the units so all you have to do is tap into a fresh water line and a drain line... it really is simple to do.
The units with tanks... the tanks are used to hold fresh drinking water. You can mount them under your sink and install a second faucet for the drinking water.
I will always recommend RO/DI water over tap water. Some tap water may be just fine... but a RO/DI unit will give you very pure water.
 
tommykylie

tommykylie

New Member
I am ptetty sure I am going to buy a system. My tank is 75G, and I don't want to be constantly buying water. I prefer the convience of having the water readily available anyway!! :D When you say "tap into" the water line what does that involve? Is any drilling into pipes involved? I am really dumb when it comes ti DIY projects!!! Should I get the unit with the tank or is that just for drinking water? Thanks again!!
 
reefnut

reefnut

Active Member
The tanks are just for drinking water. Which is something may people like to do... clean water for the tank and for cooking.
The unit I have can with self taping clamps. I decided not to use them and just used a water hose tee on my cold water supply for the washing maching...
 
tommykylie

tommykylie

New Member
Wow:joy: your system looks pretty easy to do!! I think I can do something like that. Do you have to set up a separate line for waste water or is there a way it can just go down the drain? Do you add your salt directly into the trashcan or do you mix it in another container? Another question, your picture shows four cannisters and the systems I've seen all have three cannisters- whats the difference?
 
jacksdad

jacksdad

Member
I have a quick qusetion about your setup ReefNut if I could do a little hi-jacking:D
I see you have a float valve setup, does the water automatically stop whenit reaches the float? Or does it continue to run and just go down the waste tube? In other words can you leave the supply water on continuously?
Sorry for the hi-jack.
 
robchuck

robchuck

Active Member

Originally posted by tommykylie
Wow:joy: your system looks pretty easy to do!! I think I can do something like that. Do you have to set up a separate line for waste water or is there a way it can just go down the drain? Do you add your salt directly into the trashcan or do you mix it in another container? Another question, your picture shows four cannisters and the systems I've seen all have three cannisters- whats the difference?
Tommy,
I have a similar setup to ReefNut, and here's what I do: I use the trashcan for my freshwater auto topoff unit and then pump water out of that can into another when it's time to mix saltwater for a waterchange.
As far as the four canisters are concerned, the one all the way to the left is the DI chamber on the Typhoon III model. The other three chambers are the prefilters before the membrane (which sits on top of the unit). The other units you've seen probably have the DI chamber up top piggy-backing on the RO membrane housing.
Originally posted by tommykylie
I have a quick qusetion about your setup ReefNut if I could do a little hi-jacking
I see you have a float valve setup, does the water automatically stop whenit reaches the float? Or does it continue to run and just go down the waste tube? In other words can you leave the supply water on continuously?
Sorry for the hi-jack.
Most RO/DI units come with an auto-shutoff device of some sort that will stop drawing in water from the supply. The AWI Typhoon III model that ReefNut and I both use has one built in.
 
fishphreak

fishphreak

Member
Hey ReefNut or RobChuck
I am thinking about getting a Typhoon III 75 GPD unit and I was just wondering if I need a flush kit for that.
I know I need to get the the adaptor and the float kit, is there anything I need for that unit?
Thanks so much,
Jessica
 
reefnut

reefnut

Active Member
I see you have a float valve setup, does the water automatically stop when it reaches the float?
The unit has a auto shutoff valve. When the float valve stops the water flow pressure builds up and the auto shutoff valve turns the unit off.
I was just wondering if I need a flush kit for that.
I know I need to get the the adapter and the float kit, is there anything I need for that unit?
The back flush valve should come on the unit at no additional cost. It is good to have, it basically cleans off the filters and makes them last longer. The adapter and float valve should be all you need. Everything else comes with it.
Do you have to set up a separate line for waste water or is there a way it can just go down the drain?
There is a separate line for the waste water. Mine is ran into the washers drain line.
Do you add your salt directly into the trashcan or do you mix it in another container?
The trash can holds fresh water. I use as much water for topoff as water changes. For water changes I mix the water in 5g buckets.
Another question, your picture shows four cannisters and the systems I've seen all have three cannisters- whats the difference?
Mine is a 5 stage unit. 1- filter, 2-carbon filters, 1-DI and 1-RO. The units with 3 cannisters are just 4 stage units.
 
fishphreak

fishphreak

Member
Thanks for the reply reef nut. I am definitely going with the Typhoon III. That really helped me out a lot. Before you mentioned the Typhoon I was thinking about getting a Kent HI-S Maxxima at $349.99
Thanks,
Jessica
 
eel

eel

Member
just bought r/o unit for 85.00 100gpd if you shop around:D you can find deels like that e store also seen one at home depot 50gpd for 160.00
 
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