RO/DI Storage Rack, Thanks T316

rmeaux

Member
This was one of those projects that you think how the heck am I going to accomplish this or make this work and you see someone's setup and you feel stupid because they have the most common sense looking setup. Well that genius is T316. I want to thank you for your pictures of your storage stand and putting my mind finally at rest. After seeing his setup I got the material and built it today. It is 3 ft by 3 ft and I have roughly 15 1/2 in of free space above each drum. Much free space around each drum.









 

rmeaux

Member
No I don't shop at *****. (The box in the Picture) My wife worked there while she was in college. We went get boxes to move into our new house. This is in my unfinished shed. I will post more pics when I start the plumbing next weekend.
 

t316

Active Member
Sweeeet....I actually helped someone on this site

That looks awesome rmeaux. The way you notched in those legs, I don't think that setup is going anywhere.
...and gotta love that helper you have there, with the purple uniform...
 

t316

Active Member
You mention this is in a shed. I assume the tank is in the house. Are you going to run pipe to the house, or just make the water in the shed and carry it to the house?
 

rmeaux

Member
I am plumbing a fresh and salt line to near the DT. I will have separate pumps to pump each. I am also plumbing a drain from the DT to a bathroom vent pipe and a tap water line to the shed also.
You reminded me, how far to you think I could run the RODI waste water. would about 6-7 foot of head put too much back pressure on it. I am wondering this because I want to run my waste line to the same bathroom vent pipe I mentioned earlier but it is about 40 feet away and in the attic. I am trying not to have to run a separate drain from my shed to my sewerage or outside to a ditch
 

t316

Active Member
Originally Posted by rmeaux
http:///forum/post/2900218
I am plumbing a fresh and salt line to near the DT. I will have separate pumps to pump each. I am also plumbing a drain from the DT to a bathroom vent pipe and a tap water line to the shed also.
You reminded me, how far to you think I could run the RODI waste water. would about 6-7 foot of head put too much back pressure on it. I am wondering this because I want to run my waste line to the same bathroom vent pipe I mentioned earlier but it is about 40 feet away and in the attic. I am trying not to have to run a separate drain from my shed to my sewerage or outside to a ditch
That is a good question, one that I have not seen come up before. I didn't have a clue so I called the owner of co. that manufactured mine. You even stumped him. He said that he didn't have a chart and the only way to find out is to try it. We are dealing with low pressure here, so he said that the waste line can take "some" head pressure, but at what point it starts to slow down the water making operation, he didn't know either.
If you don't get any more responses on that one, send a PM to SCSInet and tell him to check in here. If anybody knows, he probably does. I'd like to hear his opinion as well.
 

scsinet

Active Member
My spidey sense is tingling...
I would expect that RODI waste can be plumbed with a 6-7 foot head no problem. I would upsize the tubing if the run is long so the resistance in the line is minimized, so go from the 1/4" I.D. hose to a 3/8" or so. If PVC fittings are too hard to find, use brass, which is fine since the waste line isn't going into the tank.
One idea also would be to mount the RO unit high... by raising it up, you reduce the head pressure, because head pressure is figured from the relative height from the source to the destination, so for example, if you mounted the RO unit 6' from ground level, then the line dropped down to ground level then went up a 6' hill, the head height is 0.
One other idea... don't bother with the drain. Put another one of those giant blue tanks outside your shed, mount it on a short platform, and put a bulkhead and valve at the bottom. Dump your waste into it, then use the valve to fill up watering cans. That's what I do, I reclaim up to 110 gallons of waste at a time, which we use to water plants and such. One day I'll hook a sprinkler pump up to it so I can water the lawn too.
Or, if that's not your bag, dig a big old hole in the ground next to your shed, fill it up with driveway gravel (those 1" or so marble chunks), drop your pipe into it, cover the rocks with a sheet of plastic, and cover the whole thing with dirt. Simple DIY cistern...
Now, I know that my previous conversations with the OP revealed that it "never froze" there, but I STRONGLY recommend, since there is obviously power in the shed, that you install a simple freeze protection heater. They sell heaters specificially for the purpose, they are used in fire sprinkler riser rooms on buildings to prevent the valves from freezing up. Google "Northern Tool" and search their site for PN 173054. I strongly recommend that because if you get a freeze, you'll destroy your RO membrane, possibly fracture pump housings, as well as who knows what pipes and valves. To me, it's cheap insurance.
... besides, you've got a tool box in there, so it must be a workshop, so if you are in there in the winter you can crank it up and at least be a bit more comfortable.
 

rmeaux

Member
Well I have 9 foot ceilings and and the ro unit will be mounted about 6-7 foot so I will only have head of about 4 after I go above my ceiling joist.
I was just shooting for the maximum I would encounter.
YOu know I have a cistern on my outside cabana sink where I clean my fish and seafood and never even thought about doing that.
I was planning on going from the wastewater line and hopefully finding a fitting to go to 1/2 PVC
Thanks Guys!
 

scotts

Active Member
Woo Hoo!!! Dwight getting the props that he deserves....(Do I hear the new mod. celebratory bells warming up
)
 
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