RO/DI Units
- Thread starter zincoxide
- Start date
miaheatlvr
Active Member
Originally Posted by zincoxide
If I get a reverse osmosis system with the water system that I installed in my house for drinking... Is that the same as the units that are used for aquarium purposes?
Yes, but test it first for purity and even then it still needs to polished off VIA Deoinization!
If I get a reverse osmosis system with the water system that I installed in my house for drinking... Is that the same as the units that are used for aquarium purposes?
Yes, but test it first for purity and even then it still needs to polished off VIA Deoinization!
acrylic51
Active Member
Ask the seller what the rejection rate is on the membrane.....the bigger you go gpd you sacrifice the rejection rate....being that 75gpd might produce less water but the rejection rate is better than a 100gpd.....I have also heard the seller does offer a swap on the membranes......
zincoxide
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
Ask the seller what the rejection rate is on the membrane.....the bigger you go gpd you sacrifice the rejection rate....being that 75gpd might produce less water but the rejection rate is better than a 100gpd.....I have also heard the seller does offer a swap on the membranes......
Here is a small clip on their product:
1st stage: high capacity, 5 micron sediment filter, to remove sediment, rust, sand, (replace every 12 months)
2nd stage: high capacity carbon filter, coconut shell carbon block filter removes chlorine, taste & odor (replace every 12 months)
3rd stage: high capacity carbon filter, coconut shell carbon block filter further removing chlorine to ensure 100% removal of chlorine (replace every 12 months)
4th stage: TFC-100/TFM-100 Premium membrane we have done extensive testing among different brands of membrane, and we recently have switched to a higher rejection membrane GE Desal membrane, (even better than Filmtec membrane), it removes 97% to 98% of all chemical, dissolved solids in tap water. (replace every 2-3 years) Look at data below.
5th stage: DI filter (de-ionized, de-mineralize filter), Nuclear grade, color changing DI filter with refillable clear housing. The DI filter removes remaining of dissolved solids after RO system. A ball valve is included for dispensing DI water into open containers or to open tank. GOOD for reef, aquarium, hydroponics applications.
6th stage: high capacity final stage inline carbon filter, granular activated carbon, to improve taste of water. (replace every 12 months)
Any good??
Ask the seller what the rejection rate is on the membrane.....the bigger you go gpd you sacrifice the rejection rate....being that 75gpd might produce less water but the rejection rate is better than a 100gpd.....I have also heard the seller does offer a swap on the membranes......
Here is a small clip on their product:
1st stage: high capacity, 5 micron sediment filter, to remove sediment, rust, sand, (replace every 12 months)
2nd stage: high capacity carbon filter, coconut shell carbon block filter removes chlorine, taste & odor (replace every 12 months)
3rd stage: high capacity carbon filter, coconut shell carbon block filter further removing chlorine to ensure 100% removal of chlorine (replace every 12 months)
4th stage: TFC-100/TFM-100 Premium membrane we have done extensive testing among different brands of membrane, and we recently have switched to a higher rejection membrane GE Desal membrane, (even better than Filmtec membrane), it removes 97% to 98% of all chemical, dissolved solids in tap water. (replace every 2-3 years) Look at data below.
5th stage: DI filter (de-ionized, de-mineralize filter), Nuclear grade, color changing DI filter with refillable clear housing. The DI filter removes remaining of dissolved solids after RO system. A ball valve is included for dispensing DI water into open containers or to open tank. GOOD for reef, aquarium, hydroponics applications.
6th stage: high capacity final stage inline carbon filter, granular activated carbon, to improve taste of water. (replace every 12 months)
Any good??
who dey
Active Member
The key element that needs to be removed from filtration is phosphates. RO water should test 0 for PO4 and thats what you should be using in your tank. Most RO units rmove 99% of silicates from tap water so if you don't plan on testing the water from your built in RO system for all 99% of silicates, at least test for phos(fuel for algae)
cgrant
Active Member
I remember reading a post a couple of weeks back, one of the members (dont remember who) purchased one of the 100 gpd ro/di off e b a y and had some issues with it, if i remember correctly he was sending it back.
IMO...I would get something like the typhoon that already has a proven track record, I purchased the typhoon and am very happy with it.
My ro water is ~4 tds and my ro/di is 0
IMO...I would get something like the typhoon that already has a proven track record, I purchased the typhoon and am very happy with it.
My ro water is ~4 tds and my ro/di is 0
A
allenk
Guest
I think that you will find that a unit that contains DI will also come with a warning from the manufacturer about using it as drinking water. Here are some excerpts I grabbed from internet discussions regarding consumption. As you can see, there is a difference of opinion. Personally, until such time as there is a definitive study, I would avoid it. You could just take out the DI filter and run that chamber empty.
OPINION #1
When the Langlier Saturation Index reflects a positive value in a water, the water is said to be scale forming. This means that the water contains hard constituents such as Ca and Mg. To a certain extent, this is favorable in commercial water delivered from water treatment plants because of it's tendency to form a scale around the inside of municipal and domestic plumbing thus preventing ******** corrosion of water piping. When the LSI has a negative value the water then becomes aggressive. The lower the value (down to -5) the more aggressive the water. Aggressive water causes corrosion to all metals.
Water is considered the universal solvent. In it's purest form having a neutral pH, the water has the most solubility. I don't believe deionized water is safe to drink because of its "leaching" ability's. Deionized water will strip CO2 from the air. When you drink it, this water will strip vitamins and minerals from inside you. Drinking small amounts of deionized water from time to time may be all right however, long term effects from consistent consumption may have adverse results on health.
OPINION #2
Deionized water is harmless. Drink all you want. The water will quickly dissolve some sugars and electrolytes from your mouth and especially from your digestive system, and will become just plain water. The only potential harm from deionized water might come from the resin used to demineralize the water--not only are these resin beds somewhat limited in their capacity, but they are also hospitable breeding grounds for bacteria. In general, however, the bacteria which grows in clean water is usually harmless. The problem with deionized water is the cost--it is just not worth the price from a drinking water perspective when so many other, less expensive, water purification systems exist.
By the same token, mineral water, with a total dissolved solids of more than 1000 parts per million, is also no better or worse for you. From a nutritional standpoint, there are almost no nutrients or minerals in any potable water, certainly not enough to be nutritionally significant, including expensive designer waters.
Distilled water and deionized water do not taste very good straight from the treatment source. To make these pure waters more palatable, chill them and shake them before serving to aerate a bit. Store bought distilled water is usually shipped in high density polyethylene bottles which are permeable to oxygen, so this distilled water is pre-aerated. Regular bottled water from a reputable company and filtered tap water are still the best source for pleasant tasting water. Don't believe the hype; from a health perspective, distilled, deionized, drinking, demineralized, spring, mineral, fluoridated, tap, etc., are all about the same from a nutritional and health perspective. Taste is an issue, but carbon filtering will take care of the bulk of that item, and biologic safety is addressed by sanitation. As far as other contaminant issues in the western world, the water supply system is completely safe in almost all cases, and for the worriers, filtration and commercial bottled water can fill in the rest.
OPINION #3
Deionized water is an usually pure form of water. Water actually is a very aggressive solvent. In our normal contact with water, it already has a lot of things dissolved in it, and is pretty tame. Deionized water is so aggressive that it will begin to attack metal, plastic, or even stainless steel. It will dissolve carbon dioxide in the air. If someone was to drink deionized water, it would have the opposite effect of a vitamin, drawing out the minerals and vitamins in your body. It is common knowledge that drinking deionized water is harmful, but I am not sure if there are any documented studies.
More opinions can be found by googling "drinking de-ionized water"
OPINION #1
When the Langlier Saturation Index reflects a positive value in a water, the water is said to be scale forming. This means that the water contains hard constituents such as Ca and Mg. To a certain extent, this is favorable in commercial water delivered from water treatment plants because of it's tendency to form a scale around the inside of municipal and domestic plumbing thus preventing ******** corrosion of water piping. When the LSI has a negative value the water then becomes aggressive. The lower the value (down to -5) the more aggressive the water. Aggressive water causes corrosion to all metals.
Water is considered the universal solvent. In it's purest form having a neutral pH, the water has the most solubility. I don't believe deionized water is safe to drink because of its "leaching" ability's. Deionized water will strip CO2 from the air. When you drink it, this water will strip vitamins and minerals from inside you. Drinking small amounts of deionized water from time to time may be all right however, long term effects from consistent consumption may have adverse results on health.
OPINION #2
Deionized water is harmless. Drink all you want. The water will quickly dissolve some sugars and electrolytes from your mouth and especially from your digestive system, and will become just plain water. The only potential harm from deionized water might come from the resin used to demineralize the water--not only are these resin beds somewhat limited in their capacity, but they are also hospitable breeding grounds for bacteria. In general, however, the bacteria which grows in clean water is usually harmless. The problem with deionized water is the cost--it is just not worth the price from a drinking water perspective when so many other, less expensive, water purification systems exist.
By the same token, mineral water, with a total dissolved solids of more than 1000 parts per million, is also no better or worse for you. From a nutritional standpoint, there are almost no nutrients or minerals in any potable water, certainly not enough to be nutritionally significant, including expensive designer waters.
Distilled water and deionized water do not taste very good straight from the treatment source. To make these pure waters more palatable, chill them and shake them before serving to aerate a bit. Store bought distilled water is usually shipped in high density polyethylene bottles which are permeable to oxygen, so this distilled water is pre-aerated. Regular bottled water from a reputable company and filtered tap water are still the best source for pleasant tasting water. Don't believe the hype; from a health perspective, distilled, deionized, drinking, demineralized, spring, mineral, fluoridated, tap, etc., are all about the same from a nutritional and health perspective. Taste is an issue, but carbon filtering will take care of the bulk of that item, and biologic safety is addressed by sanitation. As far as other contaminant issues in the western world, the water supply system is completely safe in almost all cases, and for the worriers, filtration and commercial bottled water can fill in the rest.
OPINION #3
Deionized water is an usually pure form of water. Water actually is a very aggressive solvent. In our normal contact with water, it already has a lot of things dissolved in it, and is pretty tame. Deionized water is so aggressive that it will begin to attack metal, plastic, or even stainless steel. It will dissolve carbon dioxide in the air. If someone was to drink deionized water, it would have the opposite effect of a vitamin, drawing out the minerals and vitamins in your body. It is common knowledge that drinking deionized water is harmful, but I am not sure if there are any documented studies.
More opinions can be found by googling "drinking de-ionized water"
zincoxide
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
Check out the AirWaterIce Typhoon III they are nice.
Should I get the 75gpd or the 100gpd??
I googled the typhoon III and they don't come with a faucet or a holding container/tank. Does it just come out directly for filling up a tank. If so, does that mean that I would have to keep it running for a full day to do a 90g tank + sump?
Check out the AirWaterIce Typhoon III they are nice.
Should I get the 75gpd or the 100gpd??
I googled the typhoon III and they don't come with a faucet or a holding container/tank. Does it just come out directly for filling up a tank. If so, does that mean that I would have to keep it running for a full day to do a 90g tank + sump?
acrylic51
Active Member
When you go to AirWaterIces' website, they have all the goodies you'd want and then some....They have the holding tanks, faucets, TDS meters (dual) booster pumps w/regulators and such, and know their stuff....Walter is great to deal with.........I honestly would go with the 75gpd unit.....Walter or anyone you talk to there will tell you that you won't get the same high quality rejection rate out of a 100gpd unit as opposed to a 75gpd unit......Honestly do you really need 100gpd? 75gpd unit should work just fine....
Most people don't run a direct line from their RO units to their sumps or tanks.....It might work and not saying it won't, but it's an accident waiting to happen IMO......With the use of float valves or anything mechanical there is a chance for mechanical failure.....That being said alot don't do or promote the practice, because of the addition of Kalk and such and over time, might cause the float valve to stick open and basically flood your system with to much fresh water lowering your salinity or worse yet overflowing your system........
People who want to feed their sumps makeup water either do it from a separate holding container that has a preset amount of water in it or others utilize metering or dosing pumps to handle that task....
Most people don't run a direct line from their RO units to their sumps or tanks.....It might work and not saying it won't, but it's an accident waiting to happen IMO......With the use of float valves or anything mechanical there is a chance for mechanical failure.....That being said alot don't do or promote the practice, because of the addition of Kalk and such and over time, might cause the float valve to stick open and basically flood your system with to much fresh water lowering your salinity or worse yet overflowing your system........
People who want to feed their sumps makeup water either do it from a separate holding container that has a preset amount of water in it or others utilize metering or dosing pumps to handle that task....
zincoxide
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
When you go to AirWaterIces' website, they have all the goodies you'd want and then some....They have the holding tanks, faucets, TDS meters (dual) booster pumps w/regulators and such, and know their stuff....Walter is great to deal with.........I honestly would go with the 75gpd unit.....Walter or anyone you talk to there will tell you that you won't get the same high quality rejection rate out of a 100gpd unit as opposed to a 75gpd unit......Honestly do you really need 100gpd? 75gpd unit should work just fine....
Most people don't run a direct line from their RO units to their sumps or tanks.....It might work and not saying it won't, but it's an accident waiting to happen IMO......With the use of float valves or anything mechanical there is a chance for mechanical failure.....That being said alot don't do or promote the practice, because of the addition of Kalk and such and over time, might cause the float valve to stick open and basically flood your system with to much fresh water lowering your salinity or worse yet overflowing your system........
People who want to feed their sumps makeup water either do it from a separate holding container that has a preset amount of water in it or others utilize metering or dosing pumps to handle that task....
I wasn't thinking of running a line directly from the RO unit to the tank for the purpose of water changes... I would just use a bucket for that, as it would be easier IMO.
I was thinking of once I get ready to setup my tank, I really don't want to run back and forth to the RO unit 50+ times to fill a bucket and keep dumping it in the tank.
I bought the rubbermaid to cycle my LR in. I haven't bought the RO/DI unit yet but I used my in-laws RO unit which was made by Culligan to fill up the new container. I know it's not a DI unit but I figured it is still better than tap water.
My Question: Their RO unit is a faucet for drinking water, but I only got 1.5 buckets of water (with good pressure) and then it was basically dripping into the bucket and I had to stop for the holding tank to refill again. The typhoon that you are suggesting, will it just drip like that or will I get some go pressure behind it?
When you go to AirWaterIces' website, they have all the goodies you'd want and then some....They have the holding tanks, faucets, TDS meters (dual) booster pumps w/regulators and such, and know their stuff....Walter is great to deal with.........I honestly would go with the 75gpd unit.....Walter or anyone you talk to there will tell you that you won't get the same high quality rejection rate out of a 100gpd unit as opposed to a 75gpd unit......Honestly do you really need 100gpd? 75gpd unit should work just fine....
Most people don't run a direct line from their RO units to their sumps or tanks.....It might work and not saying it won't, but it's an accident waiting to happen IMO......With the use of float valves or anything mechanical there is a chance for mechanical failure.....That being said alot don't do or promote the practice, because of the addition of Kalk and such and over time, might cause the float valve to stick open and basically flood your system with to much fresh water lowering your salinity or worse yet overflowing your system........
People who want to feed their sumps makeup water either do it from a separate holding container that has a preset amount of water in it or others utilize metering or dosing pumps to handle that task....
I wasn't thinking of running a line directly from the RO unit to the tank for the purpose of water changes... I would just use a bucket for that, as it would be easier IMO.
I was thinking of once I get ready to setup my tank, I really don't want to run back and forth to the RO unit 50+ times to fill a bucket and keep dumping it in the tank.
I bought the rubbermaid to cycle my LR in. I haven't bought the RO/DI unit yet but I used my in-laws RO unit which was made by Culligan to fill up the new container. I know it's not a DI unit but I figured it is still better than tap water.
My Question: Their RO unit is a faucet for drinking water, but I only got 1.5 buckets of water (with good pressure) and then it was basically dripping into the bucket and I had to stop for the holding tank to refill again. The typhoon that you are suggesting, will it just drip like that or will I get some go pressure behind it?
acrylic51
Active Member
Originally Posted by zincoxide
Should I get the 75gpd or the 100gpd??
I googled the typhoon III and they don't come with a faucet or a holding container/tank. Does it just come out directly for filling up a tank. If so, does that mean that I would have to keep it running for a full day to do a 90g tank + sump?
I'm not quite sure what you mean when you say does it come out directly for filling up a tank? Yes it would take a while to fill the tank.....
Should I get the 75gpd or the 100gpd??
I googled the typhoon III and they don't come with a faucet or a holding container/tank. Does it just come out directly for filling up a tank. If so, does that mean that I would have to keep it running for a full day to do a 90g tank + sump?
I'm not quite sure what you mean when you say does it come out directly for filling up a tank? Yes it would take a while to fill the tank.....
zincoxide
Member
I just mean do I have to wait for it to fill a holding tank or can I send it direct into the fish tank. Don't worry about it though, it really doesn't matter.
Last question (I promise): If the RO units that home water filteration companies sell (ie. Culligan) are pretty much the same as the RO part of the RO/DI units like the Typhoon III, why are the home units sooo much $$? I just looked at my inlaws bill from Culligan and their RO unit for drinking water is $1,337 CAD. Are these units better or worse? Or, is that just mostly commission?
Last question (I promise): If the RO units that home water filteration companies sell (ie. Culligan) are pretty much the same as the RO part of the RO/DI units like the Typhoon III, why are the home units sooo much $$? I just looked at my inlaws bill from Culligan and their RO unit for drinking water is $1,337 CAD. Are these units better or worse? Or, is that just mostly commission?
acrylic51
Active Member
You could run a line right from the RO/DI unit when your initially filling your tank. You would take the "good" output line from the RO/DI unit and you could get a quick connect union at Lowes or HD and some 1/4" icemaker line as well and make the line as long as you need and run it directly to the tank to fill it.....Again it will take a bit and make sure you secure the line to the tank somehow......They do have a tendency to fall out, and you have to watch since there won't be any type of float valve on the end of the line to cause backpressure to the membrane pressure vessel to tell it to shut off, so if you would inadvertantly forget about it running and the tank would fill up you would have water ever where, because the unit would continue to run till you stop it.......
I don't know why the home units are so much, I do know that some have UV's setup as well with those units.......Again at times you pay for name brand and nothing more.....You would honestly have to sit down and compare the Culligan units to others to see if they are actually giving you something better or just overpriced........
I don't know why the home units are so much, I do know that some have UV's setup as well with those units.......Again at times you pay for name brand and nothing more.....You would honestly have to sit down and compare the Culligan units to others to see if they are actually giving you something better or just overpriced........
zincoxide
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
You could run a line right from the RO/DI unit when your initially filling your tank. You would take the "good" output line from the RO/DI unit and you could get a quick connect union at Lowes or HD and some 1/4" icemaker line as well and make the line as long as you need and run it directly to the tank to fill it.....Again it will take a bit and make sure you secure the line to the tank somehow......They do have a tendency to fall out, and you have to watch since there won't be any type of float valve on the end of the line to cause backpressure to the membrane pressure vessel to tell it to shut off, so if you would inadvertantly forget about it running and the tank would fill up you would have water ever where, because the unit would continue to run till you stop it.......
I don't know why the home units are so much, I do know that some have UV's setup as well with those units.......Again at times you pay for name brand and nothing more.....You would honestly have to sit down and compare the Culligan units to others to see if they are actually giving you something better or just overpriced........
Awesome... Thanks so much for all your help!
I think that concludes my RO/DI research - so as long as everything goes smooth once I get it, I'll be laughin!
Thanks again!
You could run a line right from the RO/DI unit when your initially filling your tank. You would take the "good" output line from the RO/DI unit and you could get a quick connect union at Lowes or HD and some 1/4" icemaker line as well and make the line as long as you need and run it directly to the tank to fill it.....Again it will take a bit and make sure you secure the line to the tank somehow......They do have a tendency to fall out, and you have to watch since there won't be any type of float valve on the end of the line to cause backpressure to the membrane pressure vessel to tell it to shut off, so if you would inadvertantly forget about it running and the tank would fill up you would have water ever where, because the unit would continue to run till you stop it.......
I don't know why the home units are so much, I do know that some have UV's setup as well with those units.......Again at times you pay for name brand and nothing more.....You would honestly have to sit down and compare the Culligan units to others to see if they are actually giving you something better or just overpriced........
Awesome... Thanks so much for all your help!
I think that concludes my RO/DI research - so as long as everything goes smooth once I get it, I'll be laughin!
Thanks again!