RODI

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gothicrose5

Member
hi...im trying to get my local water company to get rodi water for me so i dont have to buy the unit at their cost....they called their supplier and now he is not sure what kind i need as he is telling me that there are ones that are electrically charged and so on i said it needs to be 0 tds but i need to find out what kind of rodi water i need so he can get it for me can anyone help me....I am 100% positvie this is not as hard as he is making it out to be....i am or will be running a fish with live rock tank and live sand....i currently have a tank cycling that i used tap water to fill....and all testings showed 1 frozen brick of brine shrimp im using the api master saltwater test kit and a hydrometer until i can get a refractometer: 37 is salinity 1.024 trates 0 trites 0 monia 0 ph high 7.8 to 8.0 1 week running tomorrow........5 gallon previously setup before purchased salinity 1.022 rates 40 rites 0 ammonia 0 ph high 7.8......both tanks will get a 10 percent water change on the 5th.....

I just need to know what the type of rodi water to tell the water guy...thanks
 
lmforbis

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
Never heard of getting it from the water department. In the end it may be cheaper to buy a system. Then you have control of the quality. Spectrapure sells refurbished systems for around $100.
 
lmforbis

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
Ok that makes sense. Typically they sell only RO water. It wouldn't have gone through the dionizing step. It will work better than tap but not as good as RODI.
 
iidylii

iidylii

Active Member
i would just go to bulk reef supply website and get one of there rodi systems...there pretty reasonably priced and in the end you will save tons of money rather then buying water everytime you need some
 
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gothicrose5

Member
thankyou very much yes i just bought ro water and a tds meter......my local water person just isnt the best ill do ro water for now untill i get a system or get to the town that sells rodi water thanks for all the help
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
You can get a brand new 4 stage unit from BRS for $135. They are well built and just as good as any unit. The real quality is all in the membrane and media that is used and they sell some of the best membranes in the business.

You can always add the deionizing stage later down the road if you decide to get into reef keeping.

.02
 
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gothicrose5

Member
thankyou 2quills i just recently figured out that rodi is for reef and not saltwater fish....im looking into seachem replenish for the ro water...not sure as to why ro is the best for saltwater if you have to add back in what it takes out....but anyways im just reading and asking questions so i dont get my tank wrong and lose all the fish...im starting with the 37 gallon but before i add fish i plan on moving that to a 75 gallon tank and just cycle that for another while then add the fish....but i do think ill just get a whole house ro system then i dont need to worry just add to my mixing container and then add replenish and salt and im good to gooooo
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
It's best to use RO for any fish tank, salt or freshwater. There's just too much undesirable stuff in most tap water. From chlorine and chlorimines, to nitrates and phosphates, to heavy metals and God knows what else.

Saltwater inhabitants are just far more sensitive to those things. Even though many freshwater species can tolerate higher levels of undesirable stuff it's still best for their over all health and longevity to use RO whenever possible.
 
lmforbis

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
I have a RO drinking water system. I'd never go back. Mine I'd hooked up to a tap in the kitchen and my refrigerator,/ice maker.
 
geridoc

geridoc

Well-Known Member
2quills said:
It's best to use RO for any fish tank, salt or freshwater. There's just too much undesirable stuff in most tap water. From chlorine and chlorimines, to nitrates and phosphates, to heavy metals and God knows what else.

Saltwater inhabitants are just far more sensitive to those things. Even though many freshwater species can tolerate higher levels of undesirable stuff it's still best for their over all health and longevity to use RO whenever possible.
Click to expand...
Reverse osmosis membranes don't do much for chlorine - in fact, chlorine degrades the membranes. That's why RO systems for tap water generally also contain a carbon filtration step to remove this element (among others). RO treatment commonly removes from 90-99% of contaminants, which is why deionization is used to eliminate charged species by exchanging them for hydrogen or hydroxyl ions.

Airwaterice.com has outstanding RODI systems for as low as $114. You don't really need a high capacity system, so a smaller (=cheaper) system will work fine.
 
iidylii

iidylii

Active Member
I actually just bought a pack of chlorine testers and was told that is when I know when to change out my carbon filter as soon as it reads anything but zero :~}
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
geridoc said:
Reverse osmosis membranes don't do much for chlorine - in fact, chlorine degrades the membranes. That's why RO systems for tap water generally also contain a carbon filtration step to remove this element (among others). RO treatment commonly removes from 90-99% of contaminants, which is why deionization is used to eliminate charged species by exchanging them for hydrogen or hydroxyl ions.

Airwaterice.com has outstanding RODI systems for as low as $114. You don't really need a high capacity system, so a smaller (=cheaper) system will work fine.
Click to expand...

Agreed membranes don't do anything for chlorine. And standard carbon blocks are essentially useless for chloromines which is what many municipalities use these days because it's more stable and lasts longer.

Pretty sure I recommended a cheap unit. But you don't want to skimp on the membrane or media.

Get the good carbon blocks rated for chloromine removal as they will neutralize regular chlorine as well.

I use a higher stage unit because our tap water is some of the worst. The city recently went from using chlorimine, to chlorine and back again. They did what they call a burn out to cleans the city lines. My carbon blocks don't last long. So I have 2 stages of carbon to protect the more expensive membrane.
 
G

gothicrose5

Member
the 37 gallon tank has have a phosphate filter pad carbon pad and ammonia pad.....these will be changed out to kent marine carbon


May2nd..i am running a fish with live rock tank and live sand....i currently have a tank cycling that i used tap water to fill: salinity 1.024 trates 0 trites 0 monia 0 ph high 7.8 to 8.0 1 week running tomorrow........


this is my current readings as of may 17th.. friday is water change day i am picking up ro water this afternoon and then will be mixing it with salt and replenish,prime and stability for the 37 gallon tank im thinking about transferring to my 75 gallon tank i have dry live sand and 20 pds of live sand in a bag and the same mix currently in the 37 gallon tank i can transfer as well with transferring the tanks will i need to do the cyclying process all over again....ill be adding about 40 gallons of new water to the 37 gallons of water so my thinking is that should be a water change: 37 gallon tank reads; salinity 1.024, ph high 7.8….ammonia 0…..trite 0……trate 5-10
 
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