salinity and lighting questions

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flukes

Guest
Hello everyone,

I just bought a BTA for my 65 gallon tank, I am trying to safely raise my salinity up to 1.026 – 1.027 (I believe that this is where I need to be at for a BTA). What I have been doing so far is mixing water in my mixing tank around 1.028-1.030 and doing a two to three gallon water change a day. My salinity started at 1.022 (I just had fish only) I am currently up to 1.024. My first question: is this too aggressive or is there a better way to raise my salinity?

My second question is about my lighting. I bought a 36” 96w dual satellite system, one of the lights is a dual daylight bulb and the second one is a dual actinic bulb. Would I be better off replacing the dual actinic bulb with a 50/50 or something else? I know now that this lighting is just barely adequate for my needs
and just want to try to make the best of what I have.
Thanks for all of the input that I can get!
 

keith burn

Active Member
Imo about the salinity you are doing it ok slow is the way to go...
And about the lights very low.Imo not going to do well with that low of light.
If you will keep it
(imo not)
all day light ...
(swf.com)
Anemones are solitary polyp organisms which are supported internally by water. Anemone species are differentiated by the color, shape, placement, and length of the tentacles. These Cnidaria feed off of zooxanthellae within their bodies and need a strong light source in order to survive.
(From Wikipedia)
The bubble-tip anemone, Entacmaea quadricolor, also known as the purple base anemone, is a type of sea anemone that likes to host clownfish such as the tomato clownfish, the ocelaris clownfish, the maroon clownfish and the orange-fin anemonefish. The anemone is known to reproduce asexually in aquariums with proper conditions and adequate food.
The bubble-tip anemone, Entacmaea quadricolor, also known as the bubble tip anemone, bubble anemone or bulb anemone is a marine invertebrate of South Asian Pacific origin. In the wild, this anemone is a natural host of the following anemonefishes: cinnamon (Amphiprion melanopus), tomato (Amphiprion frenatus), Maroon (Premnas biaculeatus), Gold-Striped Maroon, aka GSM (Premnas biaculeatus) blue-stripe (or orange-fin) (Amphiprion chrysopterus) The anemone can grow to be up to a foot in diameter (12"), and obtains the majority of its energy from solar radiation (sunlight). Nutrients are generally obtained by filter feeding using its sweeping tentacles, or through wastes and debris cleaned from the surface of its host clownfish. The anemone, in captivity, will reproduce asexually when in proper care with supplemented minerals such as iodine and other trace elements (usually purchased as an enrichment cocktail by most home aquarists).
(web)
The Bubble Tip Anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor) has the reputation of being one of the easier sea anemones to keep and comes in a few different colors or varieties. There is a brown, green and even a pink colored variety which is commonly known as the Rose Bubble Tip Sea Anemone. The signature of this anemone is the bulb tips that form towards the ends of the anemone's tentacles. There is much debate and speculation as to why these tips form. Some think that very high lighting levels are required or even that more actinics are required in the lighting scheme and other hobbyists feel that frequent and varied feedings are required. Whatever the reasoning for these bulbs forming, for long term success with this anemone you'll need to provide high output lighting such as VHO, HO or Metal Halides. Power Compact lighting might work in shallow tanks. Supplemental feeding is a good idea too.
 

nycbob

Active Member
my reef sg is at 1.024. my bta and sps seem to be fine. i had it like that for months. i'd raise it real slow. look!

 
F

flukes

Guest
Thank you Keith,, it looks like I am going in the right direction as far as the salinity goes. I just wish that I could do something more with the lights that I have
. I will be going to the LFS soon and would love some more info on different types of bulbs that I can get that might help, before they talk me into something else that will not work and waste my money.

Awesome pics nycbob, I can only hope that in time, my tank will look as nice as yours **hats off to you**
 
F

flukes

Guest
I am doing research like mad now,, I just went to the website of the lights that I just bought and it says that that the total watts on my lighting is 192 that would be with both my daytime and actinic running. Are things better for me than what I feared or should I still be worried?
Here is the configuration of my current bulbs
420nm actinic
460nm actinic
10,000k daylights
6,700k daylights
Would you do something different?
 

keith burn

Active Member
(imo go with all 10k daylight.if you will keep it)
(and if not 2/10k 2/20k the 20lk in not as blue as 50/50 but purple.Imo will gives move day light.And if no 20k,s go with 2/10k and 2 50/50,s)
 
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flukes

Guest
Thank you Keith, this was the information that i was hoping for. I am stuck with the BTA and i do not know anyone in my area that has a saltwater tank that would hold the BTA for me while i save up the cash to get new/replace my lighting. but i can buy a new bulb tomorrow
 

perfectdark

Active Member
Originally Posted by Flukes
Thank you Keith, this was the information that i was hoping for. I am stuck with the BTA and i do not know anyone in my area that has a saltwater tank that would hold the BTA for me while i save up the cash to get new/replace my lighting. but i can buy a new bulb tomorrow


The decision to keep it or not is entirely up to you. However it is a fact that under the current conditions 10k day light or actinic, there isnt enough lighting to support that anemone in your tank long term. You would need to up grade to at least 7 to 8 watts per gal for PC lighting or look into T5HO lights. Just an FYI... Its a certainty, IMO.
 
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