Salinity and nitrites too high, best course of action?

flower

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeCrabRun http:///t/397783/salinity-and-nitrites-too-high-best-course-of-action/20#post_3547448
2 hermits and they are lively

Hi,

This may sound a little cruel...but you are better off that the damsel died. It would have killed any other fish you put in the tank with it. Since it was #1, it would have made sure it stayed #1 and only. That includes your hand should you put it in the tank after it matured. They bite drawing blood.

As for what may have killed the fish, which you need to know before trying another...We need more info:
  • How long did you have the damsel before it acted sick?
  • How long did you churn the new saltwater before adding it to the tank?
    How did you mix your salt water...did you use RO water?
    What bucket did you use, and what container did you use to mix the new water in... and was everything marked FISH ONLY?
 
seecrabrun

seecrabrun

Active Member
  • How long did you have the damsel before it acted sick? a month and then he was suddenly very sick and dead[*]How long did you churn the new saltwater before adding it to the tank? I don't. I buy purified seawater. How did you mix your salt water...did you use RO water? see aboveWhat bucket did you use, and what container did you use to mix the new water in... and was everything marked FISH ONLY? it stays in the container it comes in and then is pored directly into the tank.
I was happy with the damsel. I wasn't going to get any more fish so I liked that he was the kind to do well alone.
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeCrabRun http:///t/397783/salinity-and-nitrites-too-high-best-course-of-action/40#post_3547452
  • How long did you have the damsel before it acted sick? a month and then he was suddenly very sick and dead
    [*]How long did you churn the new saltwater before adding it to the tank? I don't. I buy purified seawater.
    How did you mix your salt water...did you use RO water? see above
    What bucket did you use, and what container did you use to mix the new water in... and was everything marked FISH ONLY? it stays in the container it comes in and then is pored directly into the tank.
I was happy with the damsel. I wasn't going to get any more fish so I liked that he was the kind to do well alone.

Hi,

How long and how did you cycle the tank?
What water did you use for top offs?
 
seecrabrun

seecrabrun

Active Member
I did things backwards. Crab first, then tank, then fish. I use spring water to top off. Salinity was too high when I started this thread but now it is 1.024.
 
seecrabrun

seecrabrun

Active Member
It's a 10g tank
Did you properly cycle the tank?no? Since I did it all backwards
How much love rock do you have? 5lbs
How much water flow?.. number of power heads? a HOB meant for a larger tank and 1 power filter
 
pegasus

pegasus

Well-Known Member
Not trying to discourage you, but as a beginner, it's going to be difficult to maintain a 10 gallon saltwater tank as water parameters can literally change overnight. It's doable, but will require diligent care. First, I suggest you pick up 5 more lbs of live rock (matured) and soak it in hyper-salinated water (1.030) to flush out the hitchhikers. Keep the ones you want and dump the rest, then cycle the rock to be sure there's no die-off before placing it in the tank. Add some macro algae to the tank to absorb some of the Nitrate. Weekly water changes will work best. Only put fish that are rated for 10 gallon tanks, and you should be okay. My 2c...
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Somewhat agree.....Keeping a smaller tank doesn't necessarily mean it's more unstable....Small systems are done all the time with no issue, but as mentioned above the key is stabile parameters and most of the time that means staying very diligent with your water changes....

I am not in the mindset or thinking of more LR.....The amount means very little IMHO......It doesn't even matter if it's "mature" or not. Most tanks no a days are started with "dead" LR to control what's being introduced into their systems. So I revert back to more rock or "mature" rock definitely isn't needed. It all comes down to personal preference. If you look at some really spectacular systems I'm often intrigued with the "bonsai" look....That in itself is proof that there doesn't need to be tons of rock work.

I'm also not a fan of macros in the DT.....Yes they do have a place in our systems, but IMO they would be better served in another HOB filter if you have 1 handy?????
 
pegasus

pegasus

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/397783/salinity-and-nitrites-too-high-best-course-of-action/40#post_3547471
Somewhat agree.....Keeping a smaller tank doesn't necessarily mean it's more unstable....Small systems are done all the time with no issue, but as mentioned above the key is stabile parameters and most of the time that means staying very diligent with your water changes....

I am not in the mindset or thinking of more LR.....The amount means very little IMHO......It doesn't even matter if it's "mature" or not. Most tanks no a days are started with "dead" LR to control what's being introduced into their systems. So I revert back to more rock or "mature" rock definitely isn't needed. It all comes down to personal preference. If you look at some really spectacular systems I'm often intrigued with the "bonsai" look....That in itself is proof that there doesn't need to be tons of rock work.

I'm also not a fan of macros in the DT.....Yes they do have a place in our systems, but IMO they would be better served in another HOB filter if you have 1 handy?????
And I somewhat agree with your post... lol! Actually a smaller tank becomes far more unstable far faster than a large tank. That's why it's recommended that beginners always go as large as they can. Not for show, but for the buffer that the extra water volume allows... to catch and correct problems before they become catastrophic. Yes, small tanks are kept by MANY individuals, and they do well with them, as long as they pay close attention to them. A larger tank requires this, but not as much, which makes it easier for the novice hobbyist to learn the basics. It's hard to keep any sized tank stable until you've mastered the basics.

The only reason I suggested more LR is because (IMO) a tank should have a minimum of 1 lb of rock per gallon... preferably 1 1/2 lbs. It's not so much for looks as it is for function... the anaerobic zone for de-nitrification. I think a deep sand bed also helps with this process. Yes, a tank can be maintained completely void any of these things, but it will require more frequent water changes to keep things stable. Rocks and sand are not a "cure-all", but they definitely help in the filtration process.

I'm not a fan of macros in the DT, either. Yes, it's far better served in an HOB. However, since SeeCrabRun never mentioned what type of HOB, I didn't recommend stuffing it with macros. Macros don't do well in a Marineland Penguin or an Aqueon Quietflow. Just saying...
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeCrabRun http:///t/397783/salinity-and-nitrites-too-high-best-course-of-action/40#post_3547483
You are correct. My HOB is a quiet flow. I also have a submersible power filter in there as well.

Hi...

#1, your tank is way too small for a damsel. using it as a quarantine with a single piece of PVC for the fish to hide and feel secure...yes, but not as a home...once you add rock the fish has no room. The only size fish you can keep in a 10g tank are nano fish...a Yellow clown goby for example. and only 2 of them, then you are maxed out on fish to stock.
 
seecrabrun

seecrabrun

Active Member
Well luckily, or not so much, I discovered the tank has a leak and I'll be getting a new one. I planned on upgrading eventually but I guess I'll go ahead and do it now.
 
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