Sand Snails

shaggyblz

Member
I would like to get quite a few more snails for my 110g reef. Some that will help keep my sand bed a little cleaner. I've been looking at Nassarius and Cerith snails. As of right now, all I have is around 20-30 Turbos. Which of these should I get? Some of each maybe? Are either of these dangerous to corals? Thanks
 

spanko

Active Member
Nassarius, Cerith and a couple of fighting conchs will be excellant. I would start with a dozen Nassarius, about 20 Ceriths and 2 Conchs.
JMO
 

meowzer

Moderator
Originally Posted by Shaggyblz
http:///forum/post/3009349
I would like to get quite a few more snails for my 110g reef. Some that will help keep my sand bed a little cleaner. I've been looking at Nassarius and Cerith snails. As of right now, all I have is around 20-30 Turbos. Which of these should I get? Some of each maybe? Are either of these dangerous to corals? Thanks
Get both cerith and nassarius..No they are not dangerous to corals
maybe a dozen of each too
 

spanko

Active Member
Sorry I am not familiar with Rays.
It lives in the coral sand beds and eats algae such as diatoms. This makes the Fighting Conch the best live sand bed stirrer and cleaner on the market today.
Fighting Conch do not fight with anything in the aquarium, so it's a bit of a misleading name. The name derives from the fact that they partake in a ritualistic mating fight between males to determine sexual dominance. They do not disturb any reef tank inhabitants such as corals, clams, or other invertebrates. S. alatus only grow to about 3 inch size, so they will not "out-grow" the tank. ORA sells Fighting Conch at 1-1 1/2 inches. At this size they are "hermit crab proof", so small hermits cannot eat them and steal their shells.
Fighting Conch are known as herbivorous detritivores because they will eat both live and decaying vegetable matter. They will eat all algae growing on the surface of the live sand bed, and other detritus on the bottom. They prefer to stay in the sand and will slightly burrow, although not deep enough to disturb anaerobic areas deep in the sand.
Fighting Conch are more active at night, so they are less visible during the daytime. They can be additionally fed any algae derived food such as algae tabs, Tang diet and even sinking Koi sticks. If they are observed climbing up the glass of aquariums, this usually means they are hungry and should be fed.
ORA recommends that Fighting Conch be kept at a density of no more than 1 or 2 animals per square foot of sand bed. Higher densities may result in the conch out-competing each other for available food and some may starve.
 
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