sebae anemone?
- Thread starter dfishh
- Start date
dfishh
Member
hey r gold cbs died? i hope not, that would suk if u were an invert an u got died. and i thought like anemones and corals started to bleach themselves because they were unhealthy, i did not think it meant they were litarally bleach by a person to color it. wow i didnt know this
DAVE
DAVE
spsfreak100
Active Member
Originally posted by DfishH
hey r gold cbs died? i hope not, that would suk if u were an invert an u got died. and i thought like anemones and corals started to bleach themselves because they were unhealthy, i did not think it meant they were litarally bleach by a person to color it. wow i didnt know this
DAVE
I am pretty sure the Gold CBS's are not dyed.
And you're a little off about the subject. Dying and Bleaching are different things. The term bleaching is used for 'The coral has lost its' zooxanthellae,' dyed is 'The sebae has been dyed a yellow color.' Bleaching is when the coral itself has lost all its zooxanthellae inside its tissues. Dyed is when someone has manually injected it with a certain dye.
Graham
azonic
Active Member
SPSFreak100: I agree with you to an extent about anemone's needing a lot of care instead of just halide lighting. I do not agree that someone should not buy an anemone because it is bleached, especially a sebae. Every sebae I have seen in a LFS is bleached completely white and it takes extreme light to bring it back to it's tan/beige/brown coloring...so yes to keep it alive strong halide lighting will be sufficient. They do not require supplemental feedings if they are getting sufficient lighting. I bought my sebae and it was white like all the others I've seen and I had it under (and still do) dual 400 watt halides and in less then a month it's got a nice brown coloring all over it. And let me tell you my water quality is far from perfect and it has been thriving now for 4 months. I guess the point I'm trying to make is that metal halide lighting really is the key with a lot of anemone's and most do require immaculate water conditions but based on my experience I feel the sebae is one of the more hardier specimens and I wouldn't discourange anyone with halides from getting one. I have a couple messy eaters in my reef which cause small amounts of ammonia and nitrate from time to time and I also have a higher then normal level of phosphate in my water....all of which is constantly being worked on...bleh, thats my $.02..I usually don't get involved in threads about anemone's because it seems there are too many conflicting opinions but I thought I'd throw in my experiences since I have owned a sebae for several months now and he is doing fine with only metal halide lighting.
P.S. I agree, the person who started this thread does not have adequate lighting to keep the sebae alive for the long term. I believe his sig says PC lights? It won't cut it for a sebae, they need intense light.
P.S. I agree, the person who started this thread does not have adequate lighting to keep the sebae alive for the long term. I believe his sig says PC lights? It won't cut it for a sebae, they need intense light.
spsfreak100
Active Member
IMO, and only IMO, Halides are not the key to keeping anemones alive. Although they can increase the chances in anemone husbandry, they won't solve all of your problems. Anemones just don't survive in captivity. Even if you have a state of the art tank, there's always that large chance that the anemone will still die. You stated that your anemone was 4 months old. I would be interested in seeing the anemone in a year or so.
Every sebae I have seen in a LFS is bleached completely white
Just because all of the anemones you see are white doesn't mean they are still good to buy. Sebae anemones, esspecielly the H. Mulu and H. Crispa bleach extremely quickly, usually a couple of days without lighting can cause it to turn bright white, I disagree with most of Azonics statements.
Remember, these are IMO, and only IMO! I didn't mean to be rude in any way!
Regards,
Graham
Every sebae I have seen in a LFS is bleached completely white
Just because all of the anemones you see are white doesn't mean they are still good to buy. Sebae anemones, esspecielly the H. Mulu and H. Crispa bleach extremely quickly, usually a couple of days without lighting can cause it to turn bright white, I disagree with most of Azonics statements.
Remember, these are IMO, and only IMO! I didn't mean to be rude in any way!
Regards,
Graham
clarkiiboi
Active Member
Good info, the ones I see at the LFS are always white, but I cant blame them----thats how they recieved them. I'm actually there every week to see what they got in and possibly get the discount (bag not opened). But, good info none the less, thanks.
goldrush
Member
I purchased my Sebae exactly 1 year ago.It was about 3" in diameter. Just yesterday I traded it in to my LFS. It was 16-18" in diameter and took up about 1/2 of my 55. I brought it in still attached to a 3 lb. piece of live rock,and they made a call and sold him to a guy with a 300 gal. tank,on the spot.I have one pissed off maroon clown,but I put a 3-4" bubble tip in the same spot and I woke up this morning to see him nestled inside the bubble like nothing happened. The sebae was the easiest thing to take care of.I did nothing special,the maroon brought food to it every chance it could.It quadrupled in size in 1 year!! Very nice,but you need a BIG tank if you plan to keep it for a while. Good luck.
M
mr hanky
Guest
just an excuse to post my pic.