Setting up an octopus tank?

alanr917

New Member
Hello everyone. I would like to know some of the requirements to make an aquarium for an octopus. So far I have a 55 gallon tank, and some Instant Ocean sea salt mix. I know I should keep the salinity at around 1.026. I would like to know what else I need to make an aquarium where an octopus would thrive. Please be specific on what kind of equipment, prices, and maybe even a location to buy them. Thank you for your help :)
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanR917 http:///t/394622/setting-up-an-octopus-tank#post_3512316
Hello everyone. I would like to know some of the requirements to make an aquarium for an octopus. So far I have a 55 gallon tank, and some Instant Ocean sea salt mix. I know I should keep the salinity at around 1.026. I would like to know what else I need to make an aquarium where an octopus would thrive. Please be specific on what kind of equipment, prices, and maybe even a location to buy them. Thank you for your help :)
Welcome to the site...A very strong, tight fitting lid, seems they are very good at escaping. Oh and I think a 55g is way too small of a tank....a mimic octopus stays small I think.
I looked up this info for you:


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  • 1
    Be sure to set up your tank at least three months before you get your octopus. The tank must be "mature." You cannot just set up a tank and plop the octopus in, as you can with most fish. It just will not survive long in this environment. So set up your tank and let a few mollies or damsels live in there. But keep in mind that if you leave these small fish in there once the octopus is in there, they will end up as snacks.

  • 2
    These eight-legged sea creatures are infamous escape artists. Even an octopus with a melon-sized head can slip through a hole the size of a nickel. Pygmy octopuses can fit through any hole, no matter the size. So when setting up your tank, be sure that the lid is tightly secured. Even if it has no holes or openings in it does not mean it is secured. There have been several reports of octopuses figuring out how to lift the lid and wriggle out. If you have other tanks nearby, an octopus can escape, get into another tank for some munchies, then return to their own tank! This is because octopuses are also active hunters.
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You will also need to check or get the water checked for copper or other concentrated heavy metals. Copper specifically is highly toxic to octopuses and cuttlefish.
4
Make sure the water overflows into a sump and you get a mechanical power filter. Without this setup, the oxygen replacement will not be able to keep up with the amount of oxygen the octopus uses. This will cause suffocation and you probably won't know there is a problem until your poor pet is dead. The filter is also important because octopuses are shedders and messy eaters. They will leave debris from food floating around, as well as pieces of the skin on their arms and suckers which they constantly shed. If these pieces are left in the water, they will rot and cause a nasty mess. You will need to clean the filter often for these same reasons. The bigger the octopus, the messier the tank will be. A large protein skimmer is also recommended by most octopus enthusiasts.
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Inside the tank, make sure that there are many caves or cave-like hiding places, since octopuses love to squeeze themselves into small spaces. These hiding places should be a variety of sizes, considering that your octopus will grow. Use rocks, jars, tubes...anything you can think of. Be creative! If you can, find ways to give them challenges (for example, put their live food into one of those spherical plastic containers that you get out of a quarter machine with a cheap toy inside. Take out the toy, obviously, and watch the octopus cleverly open the container and get to the food). Without challenges and "toys," an octopus can get extremely bored, therefore increasing its desire to escape.
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Also, octopuses are nocturnal, so make sure that in the daytime their tank is either shaded or completely dark.
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Once your tank is prepped and matured, you can choose your octopus. When you are at the pet store, be sure to find out what species of octopus you are getting. Without good information on the species, it is hard to know whether you are getting an adult pygmy octopus or a baby that will grow to be three feet in diameter. Plus, octopuses change color like chameleons do, so it is nearly impossible to tell some species just by looking at them.
8
Octopuses have short life spans, averaging only a year or two. Pygmy octopuses and Hapalochaena will only live six months, and if you purchase your octopus at three weeks old, it will die on you in another three weeks. It is not wise to buy an adult for this reason.
9
All octopuses require a high-quality diet of mollusks, crustaceans, and even sometimes small fish. Some people think that they can simply feed their octopus feeder goldfish, but goldfish are very fattening and will shorten your octopus' already-short lifespan! Fresh shrimp, small crabs, and even crayfish are the best for feeding your octopus. It is okay to buy high-quality frozen shrimp (thaw before feeding), but live prey is not only healthier for it, but it will allow the octopus to exercise its desire to hunt.
 

alanr917

New Member
Thank you for the info, it was very helpful. The only thing is, the dealer I was talking to said if I had cured rock, the tank could be up and running in about two weeks, not 3 months, what would be the benefits of waiting longer? And what are some brands or models of pumps that work well for you, and where can I get these? Where is the cheapest place to buy cured rock so I dont have to wait as long? Thank you.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Hello...I have to run out the door, but I want to say this:
Anyone who decides a tank is ready by calculating time, is not the person you want to trust for information. The only thing to trust when a tank is ready for life are your water tests.
A new tank has stages it goes through and the parameters tend to bounce around. Sea creatures have not adapted to change, the ocean is very stable. So when we put a wild thing in a fish tank, those bouncing parameters can shock and kill the delicate creatures of the sea. Tank raised critters are used to a fish tank not being so constant, and therefore are hardier. I think the octopus critters are wild caught, and therefore need a mature tank that has settled down and past all the changes, so the parameters are more constant and stable.
Patience is the key to success, and many times the cheap comes out more expensive. As for rock...you can use dry dead rock for the lower part of the tank, and live rock on top to seed the dead stuff. That is a bit cheaper than all live rock. I like to hand pick my rock, so I went to the LFS. You can order rock on-line but you get whatever they send...and for an octopus you will want to make caves, you will need some flat ledges, that would require some careful planning of what rock you want.
There is no more difference in the waiting period for cured live rock or not...the tank must go through the first cycle. A chunk of raw shrimp or pure ammonia will kick start the cycle...then you wait and do water tests to determine when the tank has completed the first cycle. Being in a hurry will not be good for this hobby...patience is an absolute necessity.
 

bang guy

Moderator
Cycling a tank quickly can be done. It's not uncommon with perfectly cured rock to have a functioning nitrogen cycle in a couple of weeks (not stable, but functioning). My concern is that you seem to be in a hurry, that almost always ends badly in this hobby.
 

alanr917

New Member
I am not so much in a hurry as I am eager to have one. I want everything to be stable so he can survive as long as possible. what are some brands of pumps that work well? What kind of filtering should I use?
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanR917 http:///t/394622/setting-up-an-octopus-tank#post_3512412
I am not so much in a hurry as I am eager to have one. I want everything to be stable so he can survive as long as possible. what are some brands of pumps that work well? What kind of filtering should I use?
Sump systems are always the best for filtration, and in sump skimmers top hang on the back types. How you would manage to seal up the tiniest hole to prevent escape.......????

You might have a better chance with a canister filter...it would be easier to seal a tank using that...but that leaves you using a HOB skimmer, and sealing such a thing would be very hard to accomplish.
I heard about one octopus that turned some knobs on the water pipes, and flooded the place..so I googled it, and found the story....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne9m6cLEUYc
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanR917 http:///t/394622/setting-up-an-octopus-tank#post_3512543
If you could pick one that would work best for a newbie, which would you choose?
Okay...let s see.....what would I do....
I would assume you would have to seal the tank up with screen or mesh material, so oxygen can get to the surface and allow good gas exchange. 1 pipe for intake, and 1 pipe for the output would be the easiest to control, so maybe a bottom drilled tank and use a sump system...that way at least the extra equipment needed could go in the sump and the in-sump skimmers are the best. I would also put mesh material on the pipes to and from the tank to prevent the critter from using those as escape routes.
I think since they need really good filtration...I would also set up a canister filter to run in the sump area, that way you could add whatever media, and use a spray-bar down there to help with oxygen exchange. That would really clean up the water as it's returned to the Display Tank (DT).
I would use a 1 inch ratchet strap to hold the mesh on good and tight. The mesh material gives, but with the belt the octopus wouldn't be able to push through. I actually made a mesh cover to prevent my wrasse from jumping, I sized it for a 48" 90g tank, I'm not using it...so if you want it PM me.....I sewed an elastic band around the edge...the belt would hold it real tight...the mesh material is stretchy...I purchased the material it on e-bay, so it's easy enough to make your own.

The 1 inch belt:

P.S.
I would use a wood canopy, making it taller too...I wouldn't use a starp on a glass or acrylic tank itself.
 

btldreef

Moderator
I've started tanks in the exact manner that the LFS is telling you can be done. I would not recommend doing that with an octopus tank. Been there, done that, didn't work out.
After they eat, they release A LOT of ammonia, which is toxic to them and the entire tank. If you have a really well cycled tank, it's a little easier to control that.
The size of the tank is dependent what actual octopus you get. They prefer darker tanks and areas to hide. I kept red LED's on my tank and it would come out a little more during the day with them.
Try to find one that is already eating frozen foods and not just relying on live food. I had a really hard time converting mine from live to frozen.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by BTLDreef http:///t/394622/setting-up-an-octopus-tank#post_3512570
I've started tanks in the exact manner that the LFS is telling you can be done. I would not recommend doing that with an octopus tank. Been there, done that, didn't work out.
After they eat, they release A LOT of ammonia, which is toxic to them and the entire tank. If you have a really well cycled tank, it's a little easier to control that.
The size of the tank is dependent what actual octopus you get. They prefer darker tanks and areas to hide. I kept red LED's on my tank and it would come out a little more during the day with them.
Try to find one that is already eating frozen foods and not just relying on live food. I had a really hard time converting mine from live to frozen.
Wow, someone who actually had one...I'm impressed.
I just have to ask...the mesh idea held with a belt that I posted...would it work? Also, what did you do to prevent the great escape problem?
 

btldreef

Moderator

Wow, someone who actually had one...I'm impressed.
I just have to ask...the mesh idea held with a belt that I posted...would it work? Also, what did you do to prevent the great escape problem?
It probably would work for a bit, but kids are best. Some people complain that the octopus is strong enough to tear the mesh.
I had a lid that locked down on mine.
 

alanr917

New Member
Hi guys, just a couple more questions:
1) How much cured live rock will i need, and where can i get quality/cheap cured live rock?
2) What is the best type of sand to use for an octo, or does it not matter?
3) What kind of filtration would you use for an octopus, and where can i get it?
4) What is the best live food for an octo, and what is the cheapest place to get this?
5) Where is the best place to buy a lot of deionized/distilled water, and which is a better choice for mix with Instant Ocean?
 

btldreef

Moderator
It sounds like this is going to be your first attempt at a saltwater tank. Personally, I don't think an octopus is a good animal for a beginner. You really need to know how to run and maintain a tank prior to having an octopus. You might want to consider setting that tank up with some fish for a while and then eventually trade them out for an octopus.
You can cure live rock yourself as you cycle your tank. There are numerous ways to cycle a tank, some are listed here in the recommended threads for new hobbyists or you could google them. Most LFS's sell live rock, and this site does as well.
I used regular aragonite sand with my tanks. I've heard crushed coral can irritate them, but just from a few owners, not actually reading research. I don't like using crushed coral, so it wasn't a concern for my tank.
I would go with a full sump and refugium setup for filtration. Again, read the new hobbyists recommended threads for info on this. I would NOT do a canister filter for an octopus.
Your LFS should be able to provide you with live foods. If they can't, you're going to have an issue if its not a weaned octopus. I weaned my with feeder shrimp (ghost shrimp) and small hermits. I don't recommend hermits as two times I had them attack the octopus tentacles and cause infection.
You need your own RO/DI system if you're going to keep an octopus. They can quickly make their water uninhabitable, especially if they eat a large meal. You need to be able to do a water change quickly.
You keep asking about "cheap". There is not much that is cheap about the saltwater hobby, especially if you're going to keep a specialized tank like an octopus tank.
 

alanr917

New Member
Thank you for the info. Sorry for asking such a basic question, but what is RO/DI? And when I say cheap, I don't exactly mean cheap, I mean cheaper than other places. And what would be the best model and brand of a sump? Thanks again.
 

sweatervest13

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanR917 http:///t/394622/setting-up-an-octopus-tank#post_3513208
Thank you for the info. Sorry for asking such a basic question, but what is RO/DI? And when I say cheap, I don't exactly mean cheap, I mean cheaper than other places. And what would be the best model and brand of a sump? Thanks again.
A lot of folks here build their own sumps out of a glass tank. There are name brands out there for purchase, but I have always found them to be way overpriced.
Google Eshopps, and ProFlex for a couple. From there you would need to tailor it to the size tank you plan on running.
As for the cheap stuff. If you are concerned about spending the money, look into DIY (do it yourself). There is a ton you can do in this hobby DIY to save a few bucks. For example, Live rock is crazy expensive, you can purchase dry base rock and seed it with LR (lets say you want a total of 60lbs of LR in a 55g, you can buy 40lbs of base rock and 20lbs of LR). Base rock should be between $2.00/lb to $3.00/lb verses LR at $6.00/lb to $10.00/lb.
Also, if you are looking for cheaper. Find the product you want and google the heck out of it to see if any online retailer has a better deal. I did this for powerheads and saved about 20%. A lot of times in this hobby the cheaper equipment will cost you more in the long run (that's not to say you can find deals on the good equipment). I would try to avoid the cheap stuff if you can.
Craigslist is also fantastic for deals. Believe it or not, a lot of people get into this hobby on a whim and get out after spending big $$ on set ups. Then they put it all up for sale on CL. Keep an eye out and you can snag a great deal.
 

alanr917

New Member
I'm still beginning, and dont want anything to possibly go wrong, so for my first few setups, I wont be making anything myself. On the ESHOPPS website, what category would it be under: Wet dry filters, reef sumps, or refugium? Thank you.
 

sweatervest13

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanR917 http:///t/394622/setting-up-an-octopus-tank#post_3513226
I'm still beginning, and dont want anything to possibly go wrong, so for my first few setups, I wont be making anything myself. On the ESHOPPS website, what category would it be under: Wet dry filters, reef sumps, or refugium? Thank you.
Its a lot easier then you might think, but I hear you.
I would look at reef sumps. All three you listed "could" be considered sump tanks. You might even see berlin style sumps. A sump tank is a separate tank usually located below the DT that does your filtration. Kinda... If you just have the sump tank and a return pump, the sump is really not filtering anything, it is just adding volume to the system. Most will have some sort of filter sock or filter floss to catch large particles. A sump tank will a lot of the time have three chambers: a skimmer chamber, a refugium chamber, and a return pump section.
Here are a couple of shots of my sump to give you an idea of just how basic or complex they can be. The first pic is it up and running after a year or so. You can see the skimmer chamber (far left), then the grey box holds a layer of filter batting to catch the big particles, the next chamber; the largest is the refugium with a light above to grow macro algae's ( I also keep about 35-45lbs of LR in there) and the last smallest chamber is the return pump chamber that houses the return pump of course.

I also run a dual reactor with carbon and GFO. The large trash can holds 32g of fresh RO/DI water for tops offs, controlled by an auto top off device.
Could you imagine what the display tank would look like with all of this stuff in it?? Not to pretty, lol.


This gives you a better idea of the three chambers. The little glass baffle in the middle of the refugium is not functioning (it was installed for some type of mud, but I will never use it for that). This is a non traditional sump tank. Most folks have three baffles between each chamber to form a bubble trap. I find that to be a non issue so I opted to just have a single baffle. I have never had any micro bubbles (the reason people say to do bubble traps).
HTH's giving you some info on sumps.
I have to say that I agree with BTLDreef, you should cut your teeth into SW fish keeping with an easier critter then an octopus. Or you could be one of those people selling your equipment on CL at a huge loss.
 

alanr917

New Member
Okay, thank you! I was just doing some more research and found that the place I was going to get my octo from is charging $16 when other places are charging $40. Am I going to get a sick or dying octo? I want my little guy to survive for as long as he can, and I dont want to get ripped off. Do you guys know of a good octo dealer? Thank you
 
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