SH Tank Basics

aquaknight

Active Member
Thanks TeresaQ! This is the thread I'm looking for. Considering setting up a 55 SH tank myself. What about making this thread the 'one-stop' for questions? Or is there another thread for that? A sticky at the top would do wonders for this topic.
A couple questions/points I have.
1.) I know copper is not to be used, and FW dips seem recommended to treat pretty much anything. Is that it? What about stuff like Formalin or Marcelyn 2? No no's as well?
2.) What about QT? Are there standards there? Going by my fish knowledge, I would QT a SH much like say a leopard wrasse. Have a well established QT ready to go with live rock and sand (maybe just some crushed coral in place of sand for pods to breed out of for SH's) and treat if necessary. Or is QT unnessecary for SH's themselves, a FW dip will take care of their diseases, but it's adviseable to QT everything else regarding the tank? Like you mentioned using dried base rock instead of live.
3.) Tank size and rock quantity. It seems lately there has been a downward spin on tank size for this guys. Again, falling back to my fish knowledge about pod eaters, you need larger tanks stuffed with live rock for any type of success with fish like mandarins. Is that because SH's consumation rate is that much lower? I realize SH's need the swimming space, but that would only seem like to me to push tank sizes bigger? It seems like you are able to supplemental fed this guys with brine. I thought brine was about the most empty thing nutritionally-wise out there? Is that true or are SH's dietary needs what brine provides? Or do you use other things then brine, like cyclopeeze for instance?
4.) Tankmates. At first it seemed like SH's were strictly speices tanks. But now it seems like they are becoming more of a 'community' tank, heck even in this thread there's talk about that. I thought you couldn't even do pipefish because they had a chance to bring in diseases. Or does a standard QT timeframe of 4-6 weeks eliminate the chance of diseases coming in?
5.) Selfish question, what could I do in a 55? Would it be enough for a pair of reidi's and some pipefish? I know the general rule is the max size of the SH unfurled, should be a 1/3rd of the tank height. So for a 18" 55gal, max size of a 6" SH? Or perhaps this might be answered already in Q. #3....
 

teresaq

Active Member
Originally Posted by AquaKnight
http:///forum/post/2630744
Thanks TeresaQ! This is the thread I'm looking for. Considering setting up a 55 SH tank myself. What about making this thread the 'one-stop' for questions? Or is there another thread for that? A sticky at the top would do wonders for this topic.
A couple questions/points I have.
1.) I know copper is not to be used, and FW dips seem recommended to treat pretty much anything. Is that it? What about stuff like Formalin or Marcelyn 2? No no's as well? There are several meds used for horses I will have to research them for ya
2.) What about QT? Are there standards there? Going by my fish knowledge, I would QT a SH much like say a leopard wrasse. Have a well established QT ready to go with live rock and sand (maybe just some crushed coral in place of sand for pods to breed out of for SH's) and treat if necessary. Or is QT unnessecary for SH's themselves, a FW dip will take care of their diseases, but it's adviseable to QT everything else regarding the tank? Like you mentioned using dried base rock instead of live.
I would QT any new horse just as you would fish. most horses are raised in a bare bottom tank if they are captive breed, and are not use to sand and live rock. its always good to QT to be sure they are eatting well and are use to you and to get them use to strange things in thier tanks.
3.) Tank size and rock quantity. It seems lately there has been a downward spin on tank size for this guys. Again, falling back to my fish knowledge about pod eaters, you need larger tanks stuffed with live rock for any type of success with fish like mandarins. Is that because SH's consumation rate is that much lower? I realize SH's need the swimming space, but that would only seem like to me to push tank sizes bigger? It seems like you are able to supplemental fed this guys with brine. I thought brine was about the most empty thing nutritionally-wise out there? Is that true or are SH's dietary needs what brine provides? Or do you use other things then brine, like cyclopeeze for instance?
I would never use brine for lrg species of horses. Most will train to frozen mysis and this should be thier main diet feed two to three times a day.
4.) Tankmates. At first it seemed like SH's were strictly speices tanks. But now it seems like they are becoming more of a 'community' tank, heck even in this thread there's talk about that. I thought you couldn't even do pipefish because they had a chance to bring in diseases. Or does a standard QT timeframe of 4-6 weeks eliminate the chance of diseases coming in?
The problem with pipes is the pathogens they can pass on to horses. Most keepers will not mix them unless you have lots of experiance and or they come from the same source. I would not mix them
5.) Selfish question, what could I do in a 55? Would it be enough for a pair of reidi's and some pipefish? I know the general rule is the max size of the SH unfurled, should be a 1/3rd of the tank height. So for a 18" 55gal, max size of a 6" SH? Or perhaps this might be answered already in Q. #3....
a 55 would be a great size for a couple of pairs of horses. They mostly need the extra height for thier breeding dances.
 

cranberry

Active Member
Just think of seahorses as scaleless fish. What applies to them pretty much applies to seahorses. Copper can be used if it were called for an low doses but there really isn't anything it's needed for. There are a few instances when it can be used, but common parasites such as ich are not found commonly in seahorses... actually I've never seen or heard first hand of any seahorse having ich.
I will have 5 seahorses in my 50 gallon. Your tank would be find.
 

dingus890

Member
You say in the first message that H. Kelloggi can be kept in a 15 gallon tall tank.I thought they are one of the larger seahorses growing up to 11".Did you just mean when they are young they canbe kept in a 15 gallon?
Please let me know as I have a 20 gallon tall and my LFS has captive bred H Kelloggi's for sale.I am well aware of seahorse care just was confused by the first post about H Kelloggi.

Thanks.
 

cranberry

Active Member
The Kelloggi's that have been out recently are not true CB. They have been pen raised in the ocean along with all the other cooties. They are better than WC but not as "good" as CB. Ask your LFS where they got them from. If he says a specific breeder, they a CB. If he says from a place in asia they are pen raised.
 

dingus890

Member
Thanks for the reply.I know they are CB.They come from a breeder my LFS works with.They specialize in seahorses.
But can they still be kept in a 15 Gallon like my original question?
 

teresaq

Active Member
nope you are right. I always thought they were a smaller species like H. comes, but more research reveals 11 inch at adult hood. so they would need a very tall tank
T
 

teresaq

Active Member
bumping this to the top-please feel free to add anything to this thread. The more info the better.
 

novahobbies

Well-Known Member
Few things I would add:
Koralia powerheads are great seahorse-friendly p-heads, they don't have a chance of sucking a horse against the water intakes. I've run a Koralia-one in mine with no adverse effects, but for long term use I'd recommend two koralia-nanos in a 37 gallon tank. These are perfect for keeping water flowing and eliminating dead spots.
Second, a protein skimmer. Can't throw out enough good comments for these guys. Even a cheapie one increases O2 concentration in the tank, skimming benefits notwithstanding. Of course, a better quality HOB skimmer is only going to improve your water quality.
Live rock: as in any other saltwater tank, LR is nature's filter. Just make sure the rock you get is pest-free.....mantis shrimp are an absolute no-no in a seahorse tank!
 

sueandherzoo

Active Member
Great thread - thanks! Question about the spray bar, though. I'm setting up a 46 gallon bowfront to be a seahorse tank and have the live sand and live rock in there. (there's also a HOB refugium with built-in skimmer but I'm not going to run that until my microalgae arrives in the mail). I have a Fluval 405 canister for this tank but have no idea what a spray bar is, where I can get one, and how to attach it. Does it get attached to the output hose of the Fluval instead of the original output nozzle?
Thanks in advance.
Sue
 

teresaq

Active Member
Here is the one I have- Set 2 only-it fits my magnum canister. you just need to know what size tubing you have
Eheim Water System Installation Sets
Great intake and return for canister and wet/dry filters. 12/16 mm sets accommodate 1/2" tubing or Eheim metric tubing. 16/22 mm sets fit 5/8" tubing or Eheim metric tubing. Installation Set 1 is an intake strainer for safe and complete circulation of deep aquariums. Installation Set 2 is a spraybar output for better surface agitation.
 

sueandherzoo

Active Member
So maybe if a do a search for a Fluval spray bar attachment I'll find something. Think I'll go off and try that now.
Sue
 

sueandherzoo

Active Member
So maybe if a do a search for a Fluval spray bar attachment I'll find something. Think I'll go off and try that now.
OK, Fluval does make a spray bar attachment. For a seahorse tank, do we want this bar at the top surface of the water or lower down under water? All the photos I'm able to find show it along the bottom of the tank but I assumed we wanted it near the top for surface agitation, no?
Sue
 

teresaq

Active Member
The one I have can be adjusted. I have half pointing at the top and half down. Its totaly up you.
TeresaQ
 

reefnutpa

Member
If the tank is set up properly, you buy true CAPTIVE BRED seahorses from a reputable breeder or hobbyist, can feed them once or twice a day (since they have no stomachs) and can do your regular tank maintenance - they are no more difficult than any other fish IMO.
Tom
 
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