Sharks

[shark bait]

This is going to be a post to link new, or others who want sharks and ask the same questions. I hope this finds you all well and has been over a year of work and research about sharks. While not all this is original, it is none the less VERY important to understand SHARKS before you buy one.
I welcome other facts, over looked issues and thoughts. If I have a fact that is not the same as yours please know this info is from Marine Biologist who have years with sharks such as, Fenner, Robert, Edmonds, Les , Michael, Scott along with my time in the field, and keeping sharks.
My Choices 2 For "Okay/Possibly" Captive Shark Species:
Bamboo Sharks, family Hemiscylliidae. Family Hemiscyllidae, the Bamboo, Epaulette Sharks, often misnomered as "catsharks". Excellent as juveniles and egg cases. Including the very commonly imported banded bamboo shark, Hemiscyllium indicum, and Chiloscyllium punctatum. Needs a tank 220g or more, is a 4 out of five in ability the live in a perfect system.
Brownbanded Bamboo Shark. Dull brown as an adult. Indo-West Pacific. To three feet eight inches overall length.
Whitespotted Bambooshark. Indo-West Pacific. Males to 69 cm., females to 95cm
Coral Catshark. Indo-West Pacific; India/Pakistan to Malaysia, Japan, China. To a mere twenty eight inches in length. A true tropical reef shark species.
And for a larger system the Epaulette Shark. Indo-West Pacific. To a little over three feet in length. This shark is a 3-5 and will require a tank in the 300g+ plus size
Madagascar, North Indian Ocean, Southwestern Pacific. Two genera, eleven species. The smaller members of this family constitute the most suitable aquarium species of sharks, given attention to filtration, arrangement of decor (space around the circumference), careful feeding temp 72-78 .025 SG, 8.2 ph 0 coper, 0 nitrates 0 amonia tank over 6-12 months old.
And for a larger system the Epaulette Shark. Indo-West Pacific. To a little over three feet in length.
For the shark pond keeper, may require cold water.
Note there are some suitable tropical specimens in this family. Do avoid the most often offered Hornshark, Heterodontus francisci from California.
Horn Shark. Eastern Pacific, usually collected off California (USA) coast. To nearly four feet in length. A cool/cold water species unsuitable for tropical temperatures
Not for the home tank
Nurse Shark. Most often collected out of the tropical West Atlantic as the most commonly (mis)offered shark species for aquarium use, though found in the Eastern Atlantic and Eastern Pacific coasts. To nearly fourteen feet in length (not a misprint). Unbelievable to me that folks would offer or buy this animal in place it in tiny systems
Blacktip Reef Shark. Indo-West to Central Pacific, including the Red Sea. To six feet in length. Litters of 2 to 5 pups. Offered in the aquarium trade regrettably all too often. Requires very large systems.
These sharks are all to often keept and die in the home tank.
Difficulties in captive care of sharks are several including the need for large, highly filtered systems, poor adaptability in terms of behavior for most open-water species, and oft-neglected chemical and physical environmental insults; in particular keeping cold to cool water species in warm to tropical temperatures, treating sharks with metal solutions and organophosphate containing remedies, and not maintaining a high, stable salinity. A consistent light regimen and the absence of metal in the system are absolute requirements for successful shark keeping.

 

[shark bait]

First of all the obvious, the bigger the tank, the better. AT LEAST three times the length and twice the width of the maximum size of the species you have in mind
Less "show tank" shape and more flat and shallow; ideally with rounded (mega-hex?) corners, otherwise minimized physical barriers to swimming around. Optimize surface area
Circulation should be 1000+gph (five plus turns per hour) filtration system. You must have a functioning, high capacity skimmer.
Conceal tubes, heaters, airlifts, filters, to prevent run ins, pull ups, tunneling, breakage they will become very active when fed and at night and will bump and hit them.
Salinity should be kept high, near worldwide sea level, @ 1.025 specific gravity, and constant. Reason? Sharks (actually all chondrichthyan fishes), unlike bony fishes are semi-isotonic (equal in concentration) with the percentage of certain charged materials (like salts) in their general environment. To some degree they manipulate nitrogenous waste metabolism and excretion with the make-up of the surrounding water... you get the point. Large, regular water changes of the same specified specific gravity will get you by.
Monitoring and avoiding metabolic waste bottle-necking should be paramount. Sharks are large, metabolically active animals. How many pounds/kilograms, make that ounces/grams of fishes do you maintain now? Humbling, isn't it? Check out the smallest sharks available; one most likely weighs in at more than all the fishes you've ever kept total. The need for good circulation, regular maintenance, over-engineered and built filtration is clear.
About metal of any sort in the system: to be avoided at all costs. Ferrous (iron bearing) matter is especially problematical. Sharks possess an acute electromagnetic sense associated with pit organs located beneath their heads (the ampullae of Lorenzini). Other metals in solution cause sharks to go anosmotically off-feed. Remove metal, even plastic or glass-encased from the system and sump, out of harm's way and to reduce affecting your shark.
With such large animals as sharks, processing so much proteinaceous material (food), a foam fractionator is an absolute necessity in a closed system. Enough said, or written, I trust.
As regards standard formats for metabolite conversion, the most efficient fluidized bed, and wet-dry technologies are favored, with rapid sand and more conventional canister filtration being just barely adequate. undergravel filtering is not endorsed at all; the metabolically active surface area is too small to be practical and too easily disrupted.
Most sharks are fine with other species providing they are not mouth-size or slow-moving. Surprisingly, rather than the perpetrator, your shark may be the victim of harassment by it's tankmates. Large angelfishes, triggers, puffers, et al. are recorded as opportunistic shark pickers.
The species of sharks that are suitable for aquarium keeping are typically hearty eaters, once adjusted to their quarters. Food strikes, however, are not uncommon, especially for newly imported sharks. Try feeding at night or live food if one of these bouts stretches on; a few weeks for a juvenile to not eat is not a huge problem... if the individual is "well-fleshed"; that is, not sunken in. This "good" "index of fitness" is best assessed by examining the animal head on. Behind the eyes the area should appear convex, not concave.

 

[shark bait]

Frozen foods are preferred by aquarists being less expensive, easily stored and removed if uneaten. My favorites are silversides, krill and cleaned shellfish. Squid is widely accepted but can be messy. vitamin supplements are endorsed by all experienced shark people and administered by every public aquarium.
Don't overfeed! Offering food two, three times per week is adequate. Sharks are known to eat infrequently in the wild. This warning against overfeeding can't be stated strongly enough. Too much, too often leads directly to two bad situations; poor water quality and a large specimen. Offering food two, three times per week is adequate. Sharks are known to eat infrequently in the wild. This warning against overfeeding can't be stated strongly enough. Too much, too often leads directly to two bad situations; poor water quality and a large specimen.
Don't hand feed, Instead, train your shark to "stick" feed with the food skewered on a plastic rod.
Sharks do very poorly if and when treated with many standard remedies. Copper compounds are deadly as are many dye solution treatments. I likewise strongly differ with some authors who endorse the use of organophosphate pesticides. Please see my self-cited piece on DTHP use. This bug-spray ingredient is common in several preparations worldwide under various names (Masoten, Dylox, Neguvon, among others).
Reddening due to irritation and possible Vibrio bacteria may be treated with Chloramphenicol (if you can still get it) or tetracycline administered internally via a food bolus.
I'm rather hesitant to mention freshwater and formalin baths for blatant external parasite extermination. Often the damage to the shark (and you!) from thrashing about is greater than any good the dip might do. Be careful, and follow the above recommendations in handling.
Sharks and their relatives are host to many worm, crustacean and protozoan parasites. The best way to avoid problems with them is to do your best to purchase a clean, healthy specimen, give it good care, and prevent introducing these parasites. The last is best accomplished by not using live or fresh seafoods; use frozen or freshwater instead.
I am not sure if I can say this web site but fishbase has the largest bio on fish I know of so you can get a good idea of you future pet. I tis not a dot.com site fyi

 

[sharkboy13]

looks pretty good

 

[shark bait]

117 looks and no post?

 

[sharkboy13]

what am i chopped liver?

 

[shark bait]

No I was just lookming for any info our updates that I did not put in.

 

[krj-1168]

Since - your a marine Biologist.
How come your off on the info about the California Horn(Heterodontus francisci).
Note there are some suitable tropical specimens in this family. Do avoid the most often offered Hornshark, Heterodontus francisci from California.
Horn Shark. Eastern Pacific, usually collected off California (USA) coast. To nearly four feet in length. A cool/cold water species unsuitable for tropical temperatures
California Horns(Heterodontus francisci) are found from along the Southern California, & Baja California Coasts and even found into the Sea of Cortez(Gulf of California). And technical California Horns are considered as a warm temperate to sub-tropical water shark.
also check out this source - http://www.iucnredlist.org/search/details.php/39333/doc
Also in the Nov. 1990 issue of Aquarium Fish Magazine -in his Article "Sharks & Rays in the Home Aquarium - pt. 2" Scott W. Michael stated of the Horn Shark(Heterodontus francisci) "They occur in temperate to warm temperate waters, therefor aquarium water temperatures between 65-75 F(18-24 C) are preferable".
Note - this is in the middle of it's normal tolerance water temperature range of 58-82F (14-28C).
Also California Horns are often quoted at maxing out near 4 ft, but almost never exceed - 38" (96 cm).
Of the members of Heterodontus - the California Horn(H. francisci) is the best species available for home aquaria - not the worst. There are other
"potentially" better suited species of home aquaria like the Mexican & Galapagos Horns. But they aren't really available, to the average private shark keeper.

 

[psusocr1]

who said he was a marine biologist? or did i miss that part? also alot of this stuff is just copying and pasting no?

 

[shark bait]

I said I study the info I do have my BA, but I am not in the Field and yes allot is cut. But never the less, how many people on this site ask the SHARK question. I am looking to save people a few bucks and the shark’s life to get them on a good start. That is all. Further the Horn shark needs a much larger system, and a cold tank. I live in So Cal and Dive in La Jolla and my temp has NEVER been in the 70's So even in the Baja are, where I have dived in the Cortez again never in the 70"s. The Horn shark you speak of if kept in a warm, EG 70 or above would eat so much food that the sump would need to be so huge that it would not be a good Home tank. Next time you’re in So Cal Swing by UCSD Birch Aquarium. You can see the local fish and get a good idea why this is not the Best for the novice home tank.
Link. This is a non prof org and item sold are not in conflict with this website.
http://aquarium.ucsd.edu/public/hallofishes.cfm
Lastly, I do not always agree with Michael Scott. He is good, however I find his required tank size a tad to small for a few of the sharks in his book. But I love the book!!!
Thank you for the reply and the info.

I also gave credit to the source of any non-original info, as none of this is under copy rights.

 

[krj-1168]

Lastly, I do not always agree with Michael Scott. He is good, however I find his required tank size a tad to small for a few of the sharks in his book. But I love the book!!!
I think Scott's Book is an excellent book for beginning shark/ray Keepers. But I tend to agree his estimates for tank sizes are way too low, IMO. For the "Home Aquaria friendly" species I usually double his tank sizes. Larger & more active sharks like Nurses, Bonnetheads & Blacktips Reefs increase by about 3-4 times, for a true minimum.
And yes I realize that In the winter months the water temperate in the Horn Shark's(Heterodontus francisci) Natural range is about 57(near Santa Barbara)-70F(near the southern tip of Baja). And in Southern California the water temps near get much higher than 70F(in August). But the Summer time water times thru the California Horn Shark's range is between 66(near Santa Barbara) to 84F (Near the southern tip of Baja). So we have a winter average temperature of about 64F, and a summer average of about 75F.
Still I've heard of several people keeping Horns(H. francisci) in tanks with contant water temps of 75-78F, for years - without any ill-effects to the shark. Although personally I would recommend keeping them at water temps between the season averages(64-75F). Of course this also dependant on it's tank mates - which may have a prefer temperature range of 72-78F. Still this species like most member of it's genus is very hardy and can adapt to warmer water temps - which is actually good for it's long term survival(thanks to Global Warming).
Another interesting Note - The direct Ancestors of California Horn Shark(Heterodontus francisci), and it's very close cousin - the Mexican Horn(Heterodontus mexicanus) have been in the water temperate to sub-tropical waters of North America for at least 50 million years.
Also studies of small coastal shark populations along the Southern California coast - show the population of Horn on the increase in the past 20 years. While at the same time the population of the Swell Shark(Cephloscyllium ventriosum) is on the decline. The explaination - increases in ocean temperatures around Southern California is favoring the Horn Shark.

 

[shark bait]

Thanks for the info. I will look into it.
The study and research of sharks is very limited. When you think about it we know very little about them. Sharks are so different from anything else in the ocean and are in a field of their own. So while I may not completely agree, I will not completely debunk your input but merely use it for a footnote to look into the particular species.
Everyone has an opinion of how to keep different types of sharks, and I have at times fallen victim of poor shark keeping however I keep to one rule, make the environment the shark is in as similar to where it lives in the wild. And the quality of the water and size of the tank are of the up most importance.
You are right about the variations of the water temps. But it has been shown that while they have been know to “survive,” the high temps are not found year round, 24 hours a day as it would be in the home tank. I know we could find supporting empirical evidence, and conger up our own ideas but I am looking to give the novice aquarist is a good idea of what it takes to keep a shark and sticking to my rule of thumb give them information about their natural habitat and use it in recreating the tank environment.
Thank you for your reply.
:happyfish :happyfish

 

[krj-1168]

Still - you've given a lot of really useful information on sharks in general.

Sharks & Rays aren't for every SW fish keeper.
Personally I tend to believe - Most species of shark or rays that are considered "Home Aquaria Friendly" should be kept in shark pools/ponds, instead of normal aquariums. Most sharks are just ill-suited to be kept in the standard size Aquariums.
Also I tend think sharks & rays should be species only ponds.

 

[shark bait]

Here's a few good guidelines for people who are thinking about possible keeping sharks. Which - some people(myself included) may learn the hard way.
These are simple, basic, common sense guidelines designed to help keepers - especially those new to shark husbandry.
1.) NEVER -- EVER - Buy A Shark On Impulse. Very bad move - even if you already have a SW tank set up. This can cause serious problems for both you & the shark. For you the problems would most likely be financial - ranging from not having the money or resources to properly care for shark, to possible legal problems (if dealing with a species that requires premits). For the shark - the problems are likely to be health related(either - due to improper care, or because you bought a sick specimen).
2.) Throughly Research Any Species That You Are Interested In Possibly Keeping.
Make sure you know the shark's feed habits, and requirements for keeping it's safe and healthy for it's entire lifetime. Find out it Maximum Adult Size this will general give you a good indicator to the minimum safe size of the tank needed to keep this species. Use the Internet as well as books & magazine articles on this subject to guide you. Never just trust one source alone - it could have information that is either misquoted or wrong. But get as much possible information from many different, unrelated sources, then compare the information sources. Also join several aquatic forums that talk about sharks, and talk to as many people as possible, who may have practical experience with this species , your considering - it will help you with needed information.
3.) Keep Your Expectations Real.
It's nice to dream about owning a 50 -100,000 gallon shark tank with a couple of blacktip reefs in it, or a 15,000 shark pool with a couple of bonnetheads. But this isn't very practical or realistic - at least when your starting out. Don't go into this expecting to start keeping a Blacktip Reef shark if your still fairly new to keeping sharks. Remember you have to crawl before you can walk. Therefore you should keep smaller and easier to keep species before attempting larger more difficult species. And remember smaller more "aquarium friendly" species also have a special charm of their own - ask most anyone owns (or has owned) a Horn, an eppy, a bamboo, or a coral cat.
4.) Plan for Long Term
Also remember it's best to plan on keeping the shark for it's entire live span, instead of giving away to a Public Aquarium. Most Public Aquariums may not except sharks from the general public. In some species - this may be 20-25 years, as they have fairly long lives. If you plan of eventually giving the shark away when it outgrows your system - make arrangements with the person or aquarium before you get the shark. Attempt to sell a shark that's out growing your system - can lead to potential problems for you and the shark - as you may not be able to find a home for it.
5) Remember: Surface Area of a Tank is More Important Than Depth, For Keeping Sharks.
Most species of shark found in the North American pet shark trade is a coastal or swallow water species, and therefore deep water isn't that important. So long as the water's depth is at least twice the dorsal tip -belly distance. What is important is surface area(or tank footprint) as it's important for both as the shark's swimming area & oxygen exchange(in addition to good filtration). A shark that can move around comfortable, with plenty of room to swim normally - is will likely to be a healthier & happier(or less stressed) shark.
6) Bigger is Always Better.
It is always better to have a tank the biggest tank you can afford to keep up, than the required minimum. Remember most species of shark have large area's of the ocean in which they call their "home range". Even small sharks may have home ranges from a few dozen acres(for species like Horn sharks) to several hundred sq. miles(i.e. smooth hounds & small requiems). While it may be impossible & impractical to duplicate the shark's exact natural habitat and home range (unless your a multi-millionaire and can build a large pond or small lake for it). It is possible to build a suitable size pond/tank for most smaller species in your home - if you have the available room.

 

[krj-1168]

Yeah - It looks familiar.
Very Familiar - indeed

 

[shark bait]

Not a bad post. I looked at all the other post from here and yours look good. Great insight on some of the small home sharks. I found them to have great value for some one who whats a break down of each shark. You may want to post them here.

 

[krj-1168]

Okay - since you asked - I will :joy:

 

[krj-1168]

Here's a list the ideal sharks for home aquaria. Keep in mind some of these species are actually better suited for shark ponds. The main critria to be considered an "ideal" shark species for the Home Aquaria is the following. 1st - generally a very hardy species (very tough health wise).
2nd - any species that can can be kept for it entire live in a tank/pond that is no greater than 1,200 gallons.
3rd - Any species that can be kept in an home aquaria with water temps in the normal range for aquariums(70-80F), and without require special equipment - like a Chiller.
4th - any species that can be kept by an educated keeper, but not neccesarily a very experienced one.
The Bamboo sharks (genus - Chiloscyllium) Most shark keepers consider these sharks to the perfect sharks for inexperience keepers - due to the fact that are general very good feeders(once they start feeding), and are usually very hardy species -(almost "bullet proof").
The Brown-banded(C. punctatum) - these are the largest & most common of all bamboo sharks - and possible the shark, most commonly found in LFSs across the country. This shark is sometimes sold as the Banded cat shark, or Black banded bamboo. They can grow to 40", although they generally average about 36". While, most books & internet sources say that the Brown-banded needs at least a 180 gallon tank. Truthfully this shark needs a tank of at least 7' long x 3.5' wide(or at least 360 gallons).
The White-spotted(C. plagiosum) is the 2nd most common species. They grow to about 36" in length. The species is a bit more aggressive & more voracious feeders than the Brown-banded. And they have even been described as being a more active than their larger more popular cousins. This shark needs a footprint of at least 7' long x 3' wide(or at least 300 gallons).
The Gray-banded(C. griseum) is the rarier than the whitespotted or Brown-banded, but still fairly common in the North American trade. While this is the one of the smallest bamboo sharks available in the North American pet fish trade. They grow to about 2.5' in length. Still, this shark needs a tank with a footprint that is at 6' long x 2.5' wide(or at least 225 gallons).
The Arabian(C. arabicum) is much rarer than the other 3 species - but still maybe found once and well in LFS. It is the same size a the Gray Bamboo - about 30" in total length. And requires a minimum tank/pond size equal to the Gray's.
The Epaulettes (Genus- Hemiscyllium). The epaulette is also an excellent shark for home aquaria.The genus actually has several member that would be well-suited for home aquaria, but most species tend to be very rarely seen in the pet trade. In fact only one species is commonly seen in the North American Pet fish trade.
That is the common Epaulette(H. ocellatum). They grow to 3.5' in length. And it is are the largest member of the entire family of (bamboo/epaulette sharks). Some source claim this species can be kept in 180 or even 240 gallon tanks. But the truth is this shark requires a tank with a footprint at is no less than 8' long x 3.5 wide(or at least 420 gallons).While this species is very flexible, it still requires a tank that is large enough to turn around in.

[hr]
The Coral Catsharks (Genus - Atelomycterus).They are the only genus of true catsharks that is ideally suited for home aquariums. This genus is mostly made up of sub-tropical & tropical species of catsharks. The tend to found in tidal pools in Indonesia & Northern Australia. There is only 2 members of this genus are usually found in North American Fish stores & online dealers. These are the Coral Catshark & the Marbled Catshark. Both are similar size, price & habitat.
The Coral Catshark (A. marmoratus) grows up to 27.5"(70cm) in length, but usually averages about 2' in length. They are native to tidal pools, with a preferred water temps of 74-84F. They are voracious feeders, and have been known to attack fish larger than themselves. They are nocturnal, and are very active at night. Their adult size makes them an ideal shark for anyone who wants to keep a shark, but doesn't have a tank over 240 gallons. They do quite well in shallow tanks with a good size foot print. This species requires a tank with a 6' long x 2' wide(at least 180 gallons) footprint.
The Marbled Catshark (A. macleayi) only grows to 24"(61 cm) in length. Like it relative the Coral Catshark - it is a tidal species with the same water temp preferrences. The Marbled catshark is a bit rarier than the Coral in North American Fish stores, but is still fairly common. It's require tank size is also basically the same as the Coral Catshark.

 

[krj-1168]

Part 2 includes a basic over view of Heterodontus(Bullhead sharks), Orectolobus(wobbegongs), & Carpet Sharks . The Horn/Bullhead genus(Heterodontus). Presently this genus has 9 living species. But presently only 2 members of this genus are fairly commonly available in the North American market. These are the Californian Horn & the Australian Port Jackson's Sharks. Both species are very hardy, and are huskier than any member of the Bamboos/epaulettes family. And because they are huskier they require more room than bamboos & Eppies. Most members of this genus are fairly long-lived - about 20-25 years. Also all species of Heterodontus come equiped with antipredator spines in front of both dorsal fins, to help protect them other predatory sharks like Wobbegongs or Angel sharks.
The California Horn(H. francisci) is the most common species of the Horn/bullheads in North America, since this shark is native to the waters of southern California, Baja California, & the Gulf of California. While often quoted to reach 4' in length, The California Horn rarely gets above 38" in captivity, but they are huskier than the bamboos & epaulettes, and can weight up to 22lbs. While this species has often been called a "cold water" species - studies have shown that it seems to prefer water temps in the range of 64-75F(which appear to be the seasonal averages within it's range). Although both captive & wild studies for California Horns show that this species can easily acclimate to water temperatures into the upper 70's. These sharks are generally fairly docile in nature but tend to be very voracious feeders. California Horns require a tank/pond that is at least 8' L x 4' W x 2' H (about 480 gallons).
The Port Jackson's(H. portusjacksoni) is the giant of this genus. This species can grow up 5.5', but rarely grows larger than 4.5' in length. And actaully tends to average about 4' in length.They are native to Australian waters. And seem to prefer water temps in the range of 61-73F. Although they can be successfully be acclimated to water temperatures in the mid to 70's. They are rarier in North America than the Horn. Their larger size makes them really suited better suited for a more experienced keeper. . Like the Horn & all sharks on this list - the Port Jackson can be kept in smaller aquariums as a juvenile - but moved to a larger tank as it grows. But as adults they require a tank/pond with at least a 10' L x 5' W x 2.5' H (at least 950 gallons

[hr]
The Wobbegongs (Genus - Orectolobus). The most commonly available members of the Genus are that large Wobbies, which are ill-suited for most home aquaria. But there is also a few smaller species that are ideally suited for home aquaria - due to their smaller size. Still these species tend to be fairly rare - North America. The Northern or Ward' Wobbegong is basically unknown in North America. The only small species of Wobbegong that turns up fairly often is the Japanese Wobbegong. Wobbegongs are generally said to be very lazy sharks - rarely moving until feeding time - when they can gulp their prey down with lightning quick speed.
The Japanese Wobbegong (O. japonicus) is presently the only small wobbegong known in North American pet fish trade. They generally average about 40", but are believed to reach up to 4' in length. They are a very hardy species, with a water temp preference of about 65-77F. Because of their build & length they require a tank that is at least 8'L x 4'W x2'H (about 480 gallons).

[hr]
There are several genera of "Carpet Sharks" including Bamboos, Eppies, Wobbies, Nurses, and other miscellaneous sharks in the group. While many of the species are suitable in size - some require special needs like a chiller to keep the temperature below 70F. So this species will not be included. The group of Carpet sharks that seem best suited of home aquaria - although they tend be quite rare - is the Blind Sharks made up of 2 genera with a single species in each.
The Blind Shark - Brachaelurus waddi is said to resemble a small nurse shark. They are fairly hardy species that grows up to 4' in length. Native to tidal areas of Eastern Australia. They seem to prefer water temps of 64-75F. And if you can find one - will require a tank/pond of at least 750 gallons(10'L x 5' W x2' H).
The Blue-gray Carpet Shark - Heteroscyllium colcoughi is also known as the Colcough's Carpet Shark. This species also resembles a small Nurse that is grayish in color. It grows to only 32" in total length. This species is seen a little more often than the Blind Shark - but is still quite rare. Native to northern & eastern Australia - it seem to prefer water temperatures of 64-75F. It requires a tank/pond of at least 7' L x 3' W x 2' H (about 320 gallons).

 

[shark bait]

Awsome.!!!! I hope this will be of great use to any one who thinks they want a shark. Thanks again. Now I think we have it all.