Silicates/Phosphate/Lighting

[pinstripe]

70gal. 1x150 MH 10,000k. 2x96 dual actinics. Fluval 405, Prisim Pro skimmer, no sump. All levels @ 0, pH 8.2, temp 78f. Reef tank. Upgrade from 30 gal, total runtime about 2 years.
I test for pretty much everything, and all my levels are where I want them to be. However, I have trace (< or = 0.03ppm) levels of phosphates and silicates. Yes I use RO water and I've even bought factory distilled water for changes and I still have to deal with trace levels.
Now I have read that depending on your bioload, the phosphate can go up, but there isn't much info on silicates. I have also read, on another thread, that quite a few of us have to clean the glass from a brown/green film daily to keep the view nice and clear. However, some don't have to deal with this annoying problem.

So I guess the question is/are:

1) What is the best way to remove silicates? (PhosBan says it does)
2) Do I NEED a phosphate reactor?
3) Is the bioload that much of a factor is phosphate/silicate control?
Lastly (sorry for the length here) I am thinking of changing my 10k halide to a 14 or 20k.
4) Will this affect phosphate levels or diatom/algae control?
5) Will a higher Kelvin rating take the slightly yellow hue out of my tank, or is that just the dissoved solids?
Thanks to anyone in advance for helping me understand.

 

[earlybird]

Diatoms will go away as silicates are used up. Just keep up with water changes. I don't use a phosphate sponge or any phosphat remover/media and I think I'm in the area of 0.1 or so. Lights should play no role in the accumulation of phosphates or silicates. Phosphate enters our tanks through our water source and/or through feeding. Feed quality foods and if possible make your own food with fresh seafood that has zero preservatives in it. Frozen foods are better than pellets and flake (regarding phosphate) but should still be thawed and rinsed in RO or in tank water. The silicates will be used up eventually so I wouldn't worry.
Can't help you on the lights but the yellow is from the 10k bulbs. Not sure the color/temp of 14 or 20K.

 

[pinstripe]

Thanks Earlybird.
What you said is kind of what I figured. I'm thinking I'm gonna cut down on the flaked food, stop being lazy, and feed frozen foods more often. I mean, the food has to be it. Like I said, I've tried distilled water and I still have probelms. Maybe time to try something different.

 

[earlybird]

And don't overfeed. I feed once every other day.

 

[moneyman]

Originally Posted by Pinstripe
http:///forum/post/2523243
70gal. 1x150 MH 10,000k. 2x96 dual actinics. Fluval 405, Prisim Pro skimmer, no sump. All levels @ 0, pH 8.2, temp 78f. Reef tank. Upgrade from 30 gal, total runtime about 2 years.
I test for pretty much everything, and all my levels are where I want them to be. However, I have trace (< or = 0.03ppm) levels of phosphates and silicates. Yes I use RO water and I've even bought factory distilled water for changes and I still have to deal with trace levels.
Now I have read that depending on your bioload, the phosphate can go up, but there isn't much info on silicates. I have also read, on another thread, that quite a few of us have to clean the glass from a brown/green film daily to keep the view nice and clear. However, some don't have to deal with this annoying problem.

So I guess the question is/are:

1) What is the best way to remove silicates? (PhosBan says it does)
2) Do I NEED a phosphate reactor?
3) Is the bioload that much of a factor is phosphate/silicate control?
Lastly (sorry for the length here) I am thinking of changing my 10k halide to a 14 or 20k.
4) Will this affect phosphate levels or diatom/algae control?
5) Will a higher Kelvin rating take the slightly yellow hue out of my tank, or is that just the dissoved solids?
Thanks to anyone in advance for helping me understand.

1) Water change, macro algae and phosban is the best way to remove phosphate and silicate.
2) No, you dont need a phosban. 0.03 ppm phosphate is a very very good level already.
3) Food has tons of phosphate in it. Make sure you rinse your frozen food and only feed the solid.
4) In theory, higher kelvin = lower algae growth. Lower algae growth = more phosphate in your tank water.
5) Higher kelvin will just make those yellow tint be blue or gray tints. Best for you to make sure your skimmer is at peak performance, run an organic adsorber like carbon or purigen.

 

[pinstripe]

I run carbon in the skimmer pretty regularly. I'm thinking of changing the light just for the look. I didn't realize that phosphate could spike that much with food. I use a little of spirulina, marine flakes and spectrum thera a+ once every day. I feed frozen brine about twice a week. I would do this more except I read (both in threads and on the packages) that it dosen't have much nutritional value when compared to some dry foods. I also have forumula one (frozen), but my guys always seem to shy away from it. What are some better choices to help prevent phosphate contamination?