SLR Set up??
- Thread starter skierguy
- Start date
pocaseint
New Member
The biggest challenge I've faced is how to deal with the effect of flash lighting on glass or acrylic. The best way to deal with this is to not have the flash illuminate the tank directly. That is to say, if you have a flash attachment that's anchored to the camera, then you'll have a problem. If you don't then you can reposition the flash off to the side. Or use the bounce feature.
The best set up would be to take advantage of some kind of studio lighting or to set up some kind of indirect indoor lighting. A dedicated flash with an umbrella would work.
The best set up would be to take advantage of some kind of studio lighting or to set up some kind of indirect indoor lighting. A dedicated flash with an umbrella would work.
skierguy
Member
Thank you Pocaseint.
I have had only a little trouble with the flash. I was mainly wondering about the different settings, shutter speed, appture, and film speed to name a few. Is there a rule of thumb for these or does it change with each photo? I have not had a photography class yet so I am still trying to figure out what this camera is capable of
I have had only a little trouble with the flash. I was mainly wondering about the different settings, shutter speed, appture, and film speed to name a few. Is there a rule of thumb for these or does it change with each photo? I have not had a photography class yet so I am still trying to figure out what this camera is capable of
lemonshark
Member
Go to the
[hr]
or anywhere you can get a film and get an ISO 400 to start learning. Turn all your tank lights on. Turn your SLR dial to Full Automatic and turn all you house light off. Try mounting your camera on a tripod. You won’t be able to use your 70-300mm this time. Use your 28-80 and get close to the tank. Zoom to 80mm or back off to 70mm to fill the frame with your tank.
Ok… why ISO 400?
It’s a fast film and it won’t produce much noise. You can scan then crop the black area.
Why not the 70-300mm?
There are two reasons, one is because you are shooting with low light and the long lens requires additional f/ stops… and because it will add more noise.
Why turn all the lights off in my house?
Turning off your light will ease the focus of your tank. No flash is needed unless your tank doesn’t have good enough light. Only the light will be reflected to the film leaving everything else black. Your tank will look brighter and there won’t be any lights reflected on the glass.
You don’t need FLASH!
Keep the glass clean or the bracketing will go crazy focusing your glass and not what it is inside and you might end up with dark spots on your film when close-up.
Bracketing is a good thing, to get a good sharp image. Use a lens hood when you want the lens against the glass. You can get a lens hood for your 28-80, it’s a rubber hood and will help you remove glare. It works the same way as when you put your hands on your face to cover the light reflected on a glass to peak inside a store.
There are many other ways to take photos of tanks… just wait for others replies and you will learn from everyone here.
I took this photo using ISO 400, 28-80mm @ 60mm using the full automatic dial and the rubber lens hood. I placed the hood against the glass.
Good Luck
[hr]
or anywhere you can get a film and get an ISO 400 to start learning. Turn all your tank lights on. Turn your SLR dial to Full Automatic and turn all you house light off. Try mounting your camera on a tripod. You won’t be able to use your 70-300mm this time. Use your 28-80 and get close to the tank. Zoom to 80mm or back off to 70mm to fill the frame with your tank.
Ok… why ISO 400?
It’s a fast film and it won’t produce much noise. You can scan then crop the black area.
Why not the 70-300mm?
There are two reasons, one is because you are shooting with low light and the long lens requires additional f/ stops… and because it will add more noise.
Why turn all the lights off in my house?
Turning off your light will ease the focus of your tank. No flash is needed unless your tank doesn’t have good enough light. Only the light will be reflected to the film leaving everything else black. Your tank will look brighter and there won’t be any lights reflected on the glass.
You don’t need FLASH!
Keep the glass clean or the bracketing will go crazy focusing your glass and not what it is inside and you might end up with dark spots on your film when close-up.
Bracketing is a good thing, to get a good sharp image. Use a lens hood when you want the lens against the glass. You can get a lens hood for your 28-80, it’s a rubber hood and will help you remove glare. It works the same way as when you put your hands on your face to cover the light reflected on a glass to peak inside a store.
There are many other ways to take photos of tanks… just wait for others replies and you will learn from everyone here.
I took this photo using ISO 400, 28-80mm @ 60mm using the full automatic dial and the rubber lens hood. I placed the hood against the glass.
Good Luck
pocaseint
New Member
First of all, you don't need ISO 400 speed film. By and large, that's crap film. Actually, you should be using slide film if you want to do anything with your images. If done correctly, there is NO noise from ISO 100 or slower film. Actually, you'll get greater color saturation with a slower speed film. You will need a tripod.
You do need flash if you have any ambient light from the house. You also need flash to compensate for your flourescent light on the tank, unless of course you use a color correcting filter.
Second, if you ever want to know anything about exposing film, you won't use your auto feature. ALL camera meters are programmed to expose film on a gray scale. For example, if your entire image is medium toned (medium gray), then the exposure will be perfect. If you have a yellow tang, for example, that's definitely not medium tone! It's much brighter. Therefore you want to make the image brighter and in order to do that you will have to add more light! You add more light by increasing the amount of light that strikes the film. If you're at 1/60 of a second, you'll need to open it up to 1/45 or whatever the difference is between medium gray and the color you're after. Once you get into this mindset, it's not hard to figure out, even though it may seem complicated now.
Despite the previous post, use flash!! Simply bouncing your flash will do the job. The previous post was wrong if you think you can get a properly exposed image by relying solely on your tank light.
You do need flash if you have any ambient light from the house. You also need flash to compensate for your flourescent light on the tank, unless of course you use a color correcting filter.
Second, if you ever want to know anything about exposing film, you won't use your auto feature. ALL camera meters are programmed to expose film on a gray scale. For example, if your entire image is medium toned (medium gray), then the exposure will be perfect. If you have a yellow tang, for example, that's definitely not medium tone! It's much brighter. Therefore you want to make the image brighter and in order to do that you will have to add more light! You add more light by increasing the amount of light that strikes the film. If you're at 1/60 of a second, you'll need to open it up to 1/45 or whatever the difference is between medium gray and the color you're after. Once you get into this mindset, it's not hard to figure out, even though it may seem complicated now.
Despite the previous post, use flash!! Simply bouncing your flash will do the job. The previous post was wrong if you think you can get a properly exposed image by relying solely on your tank light.
lemonshark
Member
Pocaseint,
You are forgetting that Skierguy is a beginner. I only told him how he could get a good shot with the equipment he already have. If so what I say is wrong… how come that photo I just post looks good enough? If you can’t get a good shot with the equipment you got, you’re not a good photographer.
How do you expect him to use slide film? Did you ask if he had a slide scanner?
Yellow, blue, orange, purple it won’t matter if you go full automatic.
He is just a beginner and you are forgetting that. Let me remind you:
“get an ISO 400 to start learning”
Then he can start working with lighting and slower film.
Should I repeat it once more? “…HE IS JUST A BIGINNER…”
You didn’t have to get upset with my post… sorry you feel that way:
Here is another photo I took “WITHOUT FLASH”
It’s at the NYC Aquarium and this photo was taken at a really dark room and the subject is behind glass using "ISO 400".
You are forgetting that Skierguy is a beginner. I only told him how he could get a good shot with the equipment he already have. If so what I say is wrong… how come that photo I just post looks good enough? If you can’t get a good shot with the equipment you got, you’re not a good photographer.
How do you expect him to use slide film? Did you ask if he had a slide scanner?
Yellow, blue, orange, purple it won’t matter if you go full automatic.
He is just a beginner and you are forgetting that. Let me remind you:
“get an ISO 400 to start learning”
Then he can start working with lighting and slower film.
Should I repeat it once more? “…HE IS JUST A BIGINNER…”
You didn’t have to get upset with my post… sorry you feel that way:
Here is another photo I took “WITHOUT FLASH”
It’s at the NYC Aquarium and this photo was taken at a really dark room and the subject is behind glass using "ISO 400".
lemonshark
Member
Here is another!!!
But, wait... there is more light this time...
Did I use a fast film?
Yes I did! ISO 400 again... but, what da ya know!
The subject is moving... and even with the ISO 400 his feet’s are a bit blur.
But, wait... there is more light this time...
Did I use a fast film?
Yes I did! ISO 400 again... but, what da ya know!
The subject is moving... and even with the ISO 400 his feet’s are a bit blur.
pocaseint
New Member
Full auto isn't learning! In order to LEARN, you have to start somewhere. Full auto tells you absoulutely nothing about proper exposure. It's akin to crossing your fingers and hoping for the best. By the way, the two images you posted are not all indicative of the benefits of full auto. Both of them have a predominance of medium tone images and thus full auto is quite capable.
Regarding ISO 400, your image may look fine on a PC, but I would bet it is grainy and not very sharp when you get to 11 x 14!
By the way, you can buy a scanner real cheap that will scan slide film, so that' s really not a reason not to use it. If you don't want to get overly serious, why not simply buy a $300 or $400 digital camera and you can get all the desktop pictures you want.
Regarding ISO 400, your image may look fine on a PC, but I would bet it is grainy and not very sharp when you get to 11 x 14!
By the way, you can buy a scanner real cheap that will scan slide film, so that' s really not a reason not to use it. If you don't want to get overly serious, why not simply buy a $300 or $400 digital camera and you can get all the desktop pictures you want.
lemonshark
Member
For the name of GOD!!!
What is wrong with you people?
Like you can’t see the little numbers at the bottom of the viewfinder. Using auto you can study how does the camera behaves during different situations, lighting, etc. You write down everything the camera sets on the viewfinder then you can study and practice manually.
If someone is going to start somewhere let him or her start somewhere, not in complete manual.
There is always a critic… the images are of curse grainy at that size. But, I was aware that I was never going to print that image at that size.
Digital? Go digital you ask of him? That’s a laugh… you talk about not learning anything in auto, but you expect him to learn photography using a digital? Digital takes the fun out of been a photographer. Most people are photographers nowadays because of digital cameras… they’ve become point and shoot gadgets.
You people are forgetting the point… BIGINNER!
A BIGINNER will work his/her way up and they will ALWAYS start with “AUTO”.
You expect a beginner to start using slides without learning the basics first? You sure are naïve, don’t you know the amount of money he will be spending?
Slide film needs to be sent to special lab, It is more expensive to develop, for a “BIGINNER” there will be errors and that will require err and retry = more expense. Starting with regular film can save money. Using digital can save even more money, but learn first… and learn with a film camera before crossing to digital.
About my photos… it is just a few that I have taken with simple equipment that any “BIGINNER” can take. Trying to show them that they can do the same or even better.
Good luck, I’m out of this conversation.
What is wrong with you people?
Like you can’t see the little numbers at the bottom of the viewfinder. Using auto you can study how does the camera behaves during different situations, lighting, etc. You write down everything the camera sets on the viewfinder then you can study and practice manually.
If someone is going to start somewhere let him or her start somewhere, not in complete manual.
There is always a critic… the images are of curse grainy at that size. But, I was aware that I was never going to print that image at that size.
Digital? Go digital you ask of him? That’s a laugh… you talk about not learning anything in auto, but you expect him to learn photography using a digital? Digital takes the fun out of been a photographer. Most people are photographers nowadays because of digital cameras… they’ve become point and shoot gadgets.
You people are forgetting the point… BIGINNER!
A BIGINNER will work his/her way up and they will ALWAYS start with “AUTO”.
You expect a beginner to start using slides without learning the basics first? You sure are naïve, don’t you know the amount of money he will be spending?
Slide film needs to be sent to special lab, It is more expensive to develop, for a “BIGINNER” there will be errors and that will require err and retry = more expense. Starting with regular film can save money. Using digital can save even more money, but learn first… and learn with a film camera before crossing to digital.
About my photos… it is just a few that I have taken with simple equipment that any “BIGINNER” can take. Trying to show them that they can do the same or even better.
Good luck, I’m out of this conversation.
pocaseint
New Member
Your method might work for you, but that's not how photography is taught, at least nature photography, which I have been doing for over 15 years! One more thing, slide film is a lot cheaper than print film. In regards to digital, it is you my friend who are clueless about photography, not me.
By the way, biginner is spelled beginner!
By the way, biginner is spelled beginner!
lemonshark
Member
Sure... you end up with small little tiny slides... what do you do with them?
You need a:
Computer
Slide scanner
Photo paper
Editing software
It sure is less expensive.
For that, I'd get a digital SLR and save my money. But, for a BIIIIGINNER let him/her take classes.
If there are different methods... let them be... but, both can take photos. There are different ways to learn and there are better ways to learn
You need a:
Computer
Slide scanner
Photo paper
Editing software
It sure is less expensive.
For that, I'd get a digital SLR and save my money. But, for a BIIIIGINNER let him/her take classes.
If there are different methods... let them be... but, both can take photos. There are different ways to learn and there are better ways to learn
skierguy
Member
Holy Cow! I just checked to see if anyone had responded and wow. To answer the first post I have a Canon Rebel Ti. I am getting a tripod soon. I used the tall end of a chair to rest my arm on (not the best I know but I have been working long hours and not been able to get one yet). This sure is a lot of information to digest. Thank you everyone for your input.
sammystingray
Active Member
Hey guys......you both a have a shared passion, so please don't fight. I hate to take a side, but after something Rye said awhile ago......I have been much happier with the lowest ISO I can possibly get......doesn't the film speed depend on the shutter speed to match?? I use no "auto" anything on my camera............I do find I can take much better pics setting everything myself. My fiances parents have a 1700 dollar "regular camera, but I find my digital take MUCH better pics of my tank. There was a time when all attempts failed at a tank pic for me, and their camera was the only one that could get a pic light enough, but digitals have come a LONG way lately. Anyway....just don't fight guys....you both enjoy the same hobbies, and we have had enough fighting lately. When I had a cheaper digital....I did preach of turning the ISO up all the way......it was the only way I could get enough light in, but now having a better one, I prefer the lowest ISO setting......50.
I hate to take a side, but after something Rye said awhile ago......I have been much happier with the lowest ISO I can possibly get......doesn't the film speed depend on the shutter speed to match?? I use no "auto" anything on my camera............I do find I can take much better pics setting everything myself. My fiances parents have a 1700 dollar "regular camera, but I find my digital take MUCH better pics of my tank. There was a time when all attempts failed at a tank pic for me, and their camera was the only one that could get a pic light enough, but digitals have come a LONG way lately. Anyway....just don't fight guys....you both enjoy the same hobbies, and we have had enough fighting lately. When I had a cheaper digital....I did preach of turning the ISO up all the way......it was the only way I could get enough light in, but now having a better one, I prefer the lowest ISO setting......50.
lemonshark
Member
Pocaseint,
I didn't want the entire frog to be in focus, Just the face. I can care less about your criticism.
I'm not ga na argue with anyone. But, you guys are posting what you guys use and how you take photos.
"I recently bought a new 35mm SLR camera."
Recently? that will mean that you are starting to use it... and still you haven't master it. (I guess this is something none here seams to understands)
"I have taken many different photo's of my tank. None of them have turned out very good."
I suggested using fast film to START with, then moving on to slower film using different lighting. (I guess this is something none here seams to understand)
"What is the best way to set up the camera for tank photo's?"
There is no best way, there is always a better way, that's why practicing and testing with different ISO speeds according with light, studding, reading, reading the camera manual, etc. might help. (I guess this is something none here seams to understand, they just want you to start taking professional photos without learning anything) oh well...
good luck
I didn't want the entire frog to be in focus, Just the face. I can care less about your criticism.
I'm not ga na argue with anyone. But, you guys are posting what you guys use and how you take photos.
"I recently bought a new 35mm SLR camera."
Recently? that will mean that you are starting to use it... and still you haven't master it. (I guess this is something none here seams to understands)
"I have taken many different photo's of my tank. None of them have turned out very good."
I suggested using fast film to START with, then moving on to slower film using different lighting. (I guess this is something none here seams to understand)
"What is the best way to set up the camera for tank photo's?"
There is no best way, there is always a better way, that's why practicing and testing with different ISO speeds according with light, studding, reading, reading the camera manual, etc. might help. (I guess this is something none here seams to understand, they just want you to start taking professional photos without learning anything) oh well...
good luck
lemonshark
Member
sammystingray
"When I had a cheaper digital....I did preach of turning the ISO up all the way......it was the only way I could get enough light in, but now having a better one, I prefer the lowest ISO setting......50."
you have a good point
"When I had a cheaper digital....I did preach of turning the ISO up all the way......it was the only way I could get enough light in, but now having a better one, I prefer the lowest ISO setting......50."
you have a good point