snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Snake's Methods for Acclimation
Acclimation is the term used to describe the process of letting your fish and corals adjust to your tanks conditions safely, over a period of time. There are essentially three different types of acclimation. The first one is the one that most hobbyists are familiar with, the temperature acclimation. Temp acclimation helps the fish adjust to your tanks temperature while the fish/coral is still in the bag. Parameter acclimation helps fish adjust to your water parameters, and there are two different methods on how to parameter acclimate. The third type of acclimation is light acclimation, which is done exclusively for corals. This article will discuss all three types of acclimation for you to decide which is the best method for you.
The three types:
Temp acclimation
Parameter acclimation
Light acclimation
Temp acclimation can be done for any new incoming creature that you plan to put in your aquarium. Just like you wouldn't want to be taking a hot shower and then the cold water turned on you all the sudden, your fish and corals don't like it either. Here is my method of temperature acclimation:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Turn off your aquarium lights
[*]
Leave the bags sealed shut.
[*]
Float the bags for 15 to 20 minutes on a timer.
[*]
Remove the bag from the tank
Break open the bag or cut it, and remove the creature with a net and add it to your display tank. Do not add shipping water to your aquarium, ever.
Ask yourself if light acclimation needs to occur, or if it is a fish, leave the lights off for half a day.
Clean up
[/list type=decimal]
The reason why I would go ahead and try to add the livestock to the tank without parameter acclimation is because most suppliers ship the livestock in a slightly higher salinity than most people keep in their display tanks. Fish and inverts can adjust from a higher salinity to a lower salinity really well, without any osmotic shock. If a fish or invertebrate goes from a low salinity to a higher salinity really quickly, there is a risk of osmotic shock and rapid dehydration.
To parameter acclimate, there are two methods which you should be familiar with. The cup method is the most widely familiar of all acclimation methods. The drip method is also widely used, and is probably the most popular of methods. There are drawbacks to each method as well, which is discussed later in the article.
The Cup Method:>
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Turn your display tank lights off.
[*]
Temp acclimate, except this time, cut open the bag and make a “ring” around the bag with the plastic. The ring around the top will hold some air, so that it won't sink into your aquarium.
[*]
Use a plastic clip, such as one you use to hold food containers closed, to hold the bag on the aquarium rim, so that it doesn't float away and get into your equipment or overflows.
[*]
Use a ½c measure and add it to the bag water from your display tank once every 5 minutes until the water in the bag doubles.
[*]
Take the bag out of the water.
[*]
Use a net to catch your livestock and add it to your aquarium.
[*]
Clean up
The Drip Method:
[*]
Temp acclimate for 10 minutes with the lights off.
[*]
Set the bags in a water proof container, like a Rubbermaid or other plastic tote. Many people use the styrofoam box from shipping, if you ordered online.
Break open the bags, or use scissors or a knife.
Get some airline tubing and insert one end into the display tank and keep it in there with a clip. The other end goes down to the bag. Cut the airline tubing 2” past the top of the bag.
Tie a loose knot in the airline tubing about 4” from the bag.
Suck on the airline tubing closest to the bag. Stop before you get saltwater in your mouth.
The drip rate should be 3 to 6 drops per second. The drip rate is adjusted by tightening or loosening the knot in the airline tubing.
The water in the bag has to double before removing the livestock from the bag with a net and adding it to the aquarium.
Clean up.
[/list type=decimal]
I mentioned earlier that there were problems with this method. There are a few, so lets look at them:
The drip method doesn't really keep the fish temp acclimated very well. Yes, display tank water is being dripped into the bag, however, the bag itself is out of the display tank water and is not kept well insulated, heated, or cooled.
The drip and cup methods are not necessary if the bag water salinity is higher than your display tanks salinity. The pH of the bag and the display tank water should be relatively stable.
[*]
As soon as you open the bag, the ammonia in the bag starts to convert from the less harmful NH2 to the more harmful NH3 because the atmospheric oxygen. In a sense, once the bag is temp acclimated, get the creatures out of the bag ASAP. By adding water from the display tank with the cup and drip methods, you are merely diluting the ammonia in the bag, whereas if you removed the livestock from the bag and put it in your display tank, there would be no dangerous NH3 levels building up.
Here are a few tips and tricks with parameter acclimation that could help you:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Always have airline tubing on hand. Gang valves are also fun to use, but not necessary if you use the knot.
[*]
Always have pH testing solution on hand.
[*]
Always have a refractometer on hand to test the bag water and your display tank water to know if your fish is going from low to high or high to low salinity to avoid osmotic shock.
[*]
An aquarist should always have a plastic tote, for a variety of reasons.
[/list type=decimal]
Light acclimation is something else entirely! It doesn't have anything to do with water temps or water parameters. Light acclimation is solely used for immobile photosynthetic organisms that may need to adjust to your current lighting. Also, another key idea to keep in mind is that photosynthetic organisms don't need to be acclimated from a higher light to a lower light – because most corals require a certain amount of light, and can not do without less, but some corals may need to be acclimated from a lower light to higher lighting.
I'm not going to get into details about PAR values and Lumens etc. with lighting, because that can be discussed in detail elsewhere. However, using common sense says that a T8 bulb is low powered and a VHO lamp is a bit higher powered. If a coral goes from being under VHO lamps at the live fish store and then is thrown into your aquarium with 400w metal halides, it will subject that coral to some light stress. Here's a couple things that you can do to acclimate new corals to higher lighting:
The Elevation Method:
This method is used when the coral was placed under lighting that is just underpowered, or very similar to the lighting that you want to put it under. The more of a difference the lighting is, the more drastic the measures have to be.
Place the coral(s) on the sandbed
Move them up 25% of the way after one week.
Move them up to 50% of the way after one more week.
Move them up to 75% of the way after another week.
gin-bottom: 0in;">
If the coral requires high lighting, place them as far up the display tank as possible.
In this method, it just takes time and different elevations. The lighting that the coral went from was not a very significant difference to the one it is now under.
The Screen Method:
This method uses plastic mosquito mesh and egg crate on top of the display tank in varying grades of shade. The mosquito netting may be layered one, two, even three layers thick.
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Place the coral in the tank at the desired height and placement
[*]
Put the screen(s) on top of the tank. The egg crate should be cut to fit the top of your display tank. Many aquarists already have egg crate on top of their tanks to prevent fish from carpet surfing.
[*]
After one week, remove a screen
After one week, remove the next screen.
After the third week, remove the last screen.
Keep the egg crate if desired.
[/list type=decimal]
This method allows you to place the coral where you want it, and let it gradually get used to its new lighting conditions. The shade should not effect the overall health of the rest of the corals, and may benefit them in some way.
If you would like to read more of my articles and threads, please visit this link: Snake's Methods.
Acclimation is the term used to describe the process of letting your fish and corals adjust to your tanks conditions safely, over a period of time. There are essentially three different types of acclimation. The first one is the one that most hobbyists are familiar with, the temperature acclimation. Temp acclimation helps the fish adjust to your tanks temperature while the fish/coral is still in the bag. Parameter acclimation helps fish adjust to your water parameters, and there are two different methods on how to parameter acclimate. The third type of acclimation is light acclimation, which is done exclusively for corals. This article will discuss all three types of acclimation for you to decide which is the best method for you.
The three types:
Temp acclimation
Parameter acclimation
Light acclimation
Temp acclimation can be done for any new incoming creature that you plan to put in your aquarium. Just like you wouldn't want to be taking a hot shower and then the cold water turned on you all the sudden, your fish and corals don't like it either. Here is my method of temperature acclimation:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Turn off your aquarium lights
[*]
Leave the bags sealed shut.
[*]
Float the bags for 15 to 20 minutes on a timer.
[*]
Remove the bag from the tank
Break open the bag or cut it, and remove the creature with a net and add it to your display tank. Do not add shipping water to your aquarium, ever.
Ask yourself if light acclimation needs to occur, or if it is a fish, leave the lights off for half a day.
Clean up
[/list type=decimal]
The reason why I would go ahead and try to add the livestock to the tank without parameter acclimation is because most suppliers ship the livestock in a slightly higher salinity than most people keep in their display tanks. Fish and inverts can adjust from a higher salinity to a lower salinity really well, without any osmotic shock. If a fish or invertebrate goes from a low salinity to a higher salinity really quickly, there is a risk of osmotic shock and rapid dehydration.
To parameter acclimate, there are two methods which you should be familiar with. The cup method is the most widely familiar of all acclimation methods. The drip method is also widely used, and is probably the most popular of methods. There are drawbacks to each method as well, which is discussed later in the article.
The Cup Method:>
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Turn your display tank lights off.
[*]
Temp acclimate, except this time, cut open the bag and make a “ring” around the bag with the plastic. The ring around the top will hold some air, so that it won't sink into your aquarium.
[*]
Use a plastic clip, such as one you use to hold food containers closed, to hold the bag on the aquarium rim, so that it doesn't float away and get into your equipment or overflows.
[*]
Use a ½c measure and add it to the bag water from your display tank once every 5 minutes until the water in the bag doubles.
[*]
Take the bag out of the water.
[*]
Use a net to catch your livestock and add it to your aquarium.
[*]
Clean up
The Drip Method:
[*]
Temp acclimate for 10 minutes with the lights off.
[*]
Set the bags in a water proof container, like a Rubbermaid or other plastic tote. Many people use the styrofoam box from shipping, if you ordered online.
Break open the bags, or use scissors or a knife.
Get some airline tubing and insert one end into the display tank and keep it in there with a clip. The other end goes down to the bag. Cut the airline tubing 2” past the top of the bag.
Tie a loose knot in the airline tubing about 4” from the bag.
Suck on the airline tubing closest to the bag. Stop before you get saltwater in your mouth.
The drip rate should be 3 to 6 drops per second. The drip rate is adjusted by tightening or loosening the knot in the airline tubing.
The water in the bag has to double before removing the livestock from the bag with a net and adding it to the aquarium.
Clean up.
[/list type=decimal]
I mentioned earlier that there were problems with this method. There are a few, so lets look at them:
The drip method doesn't really keep the fish temp acclimated very well. Yes, display tank water is being dripped into the bag, however, the bag itself is out of the display tank water and is not kept well insulated, heated, or cooled.
The drip and cup methods are not necessary if the bag water salinity is higher than your display tanks salinity. The pH of the bag and the display tank water should be relatively stable.
[*]
As soon as you open the bag, the ammonia in the bag starts to convert from the less harmful NH2 to the more harmful NH3 because the atmospheric oxygen. In a sense, once the bag is temp acclimated, get the creatures out of the bag ASAP. By adding water from the display tank with the cup and drip methods, you are merely diluting the ammonia in the bag, whereas if you removed the livestock from the bag and put it in your display tank, there would be no dangerous NH3 levels building up.
Here are a few tips and tricks with parameter acclimation that could help you:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Always have airline tubing on hand. Gang valves are also fun to use, but not necessary if you use the knot.
[*]
Always have pH testing solution on hand.
[*]
Always have a refractometer on hand to test the bag water and your display tank water to know if your fish is going from low to high or high to low salinity to avoid osmotic shock.
[*]
An aquarist should always have a plastic tote, for a variety of reasons.
[/list type=decimal]
Light acclimation is something else entirely! It doesn't have anything to do with water temps or water parameters. Light acclimation is solely used for immobile photosynthetic organisms that may need to adjust to your current lighting. Also, another key idea to keep in mind is that photosynthetic organisms don't need to be acclimated from a higher light to a lower light – because most corals require a certain amount of light, and can not do without less, but some corals may need to be acclimated from a lower light to higher lighting.
I'm not going to get into details about PAR values and Lumens etc. with lighting, because that can be discussed in detail elsewhere. However, using common sense says that a T8 bulb is low powered and a VHO lamp is a bit higher powered. If a coral goes from being under VHO lamps at the live fish store and then is thrown into your aquarium with 400w metal halides, it will subject that coral to some light stress. Here's a couple things that you can do to acclimate new corals to higher lighting:
The Elevation Method:
This method is used when the coral was placed under lighting that is just underpowered, or very similar to the lighting that you want to put it under. The more of a difference the lighting is, the more drastic the measures have to be.
Place the coral(s) on the sandbed
Move them up 25% of the way after one week.
Move them up to 50% of the way after one more week.
Move them up to 75% of the way after another week.
gin-bottom: 0in;">
If the coral requires high lighting, place them as far up the display tank as possible.
In this method, it just takes time and different elevations. The lighting that the coral went from was not a very significant difference to the one it is now under.
The Screen Method:
This method uses plastic mosquito mesh and egg crate on top of the display tank in varying grades of shade. The mosquito netting may be layered one, two, even three layers thick.
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Place the coral in the tank at the desired height and placement
[*]
Put the screen(s) on top of the tank. The egg crate should be cut to fit the top of your display tank. Many aquarists already have egg crate on top of their tanks to prevent fish from carpet surfing.
[*]
After one week, remove a screen
After one week, remove the next screen.
After the third week, remove the last screen.
Keep the egg crate if desired.
[/list type=decimal]
This method allows you to place the coral where you want it, and let it gradually get used to its new lighting conditions. The shade should not effect the overall health of the rest of the corals, and may benefit them in some way.
If you would like to read more of my articles and threads, please visit this link: Snake's Methods.
