So you want to start a marine aquarium? (sticky?)

ryanhayes9

Active Member
About 5 to 6 times a week we seem to get posts in the new hobbyist forum that are about, "What do I need for a saltwater tank?" Some get answered while some go unanswered. Well I believe I have a solution to that. I have compiled data on saltwater tank equipment and the steps to setting up a saltwater tank. I will cover them in sections.
1- Tank size
Many (like myself) catch the saltwater bug and never want to go back and soon (within 3 months of it running) want to upgrade to a bigger tank. Some suggest picking the size of tank you want and then double it. I started with a 29 gallon fowlr and within 3 months have a 55 gallon reef. In my opinion, a good sized starter tank would be a 55 gallon. With a bigger tank size there is less room for error. Like if your water parameters take a turn for the worst, it won’t be nearly as bad in a 55 galloon as to a 20 gallon. Be noted though, the bigger the tank, the more start up money it will cost.
- Acrylic or glass?
This is another debate that I hear allot. In my opinion glass is better than acrylic, although many people have different opinions.
Glass- weighs more than acrylic, but does not scratch nearly as bad as acrylic. Breaks easier than acrylic. It will maintain its clarity. Glass is cheaper than acrylic.
Acrylic- weighs a decent amount less that glass; therefore some large or custom built tanks will be made of acrylic. It is 17X stronger than glass, making it more shock resistant. It also insulates 20% better than glass, making temperature fluctuations less. acrylic is far less shatter proof, although, over time, many will turn a yellowish color due to the chemical reactions from the things acrylic is made from. Acrylic cost a decent amount more than glass also.
2- Filters
Many prefer the HOT type (hang on tank) that is seen in almost all freshwater tanks. These are acceptable for saltwater but, remember, this is saltwater, not freshwater.
Canister filters- these type of filters are preferred by many aquarists. They sit either under your stand, next to your tank, wherever. They also eliminate the ugly tubes that go with HOT type filters. They are shaped like a box and have and intake and return hoses. The water is sucked from the tank through the input hose, where it then runs throughout the filter media inside the canister. Then it is pumped back to the tank through the return line.
Wet/dry/trickle Filters- This is not my area of expertise because I have never run a wet dry filter before. Water is pumped from the aquarium where the water is then "trickled" down through different filter medias that may consist of filter floss etc. this is all on some type of clear box or tank type thing. Once it is filtered, it is pumped back to the main tank via return pump. These filters are preferred by many hobbyists as these can handle a large bioload from fish.
refugiums- some aquariust use these(including myself)They help to lower nitrate by having space for the addition of macro algae or liverock. It can also be a place for pods to reproduce. This in my opinion is nesecary if you plan on keeping a mandarin as these fish eat ALL DAY, and the only thing they eat is pods. Some people will even buy bottled pods and add them to their refugium to help boost the pod population.
Protein skimmer- this type of "filter" is used to remove organic compounds from the water before they break down into nitrogenous waste. This is the only type of filtration that physically removes organic compounds before they begin to decompose. These are HIGHLY recommended to any aquarist and in my opinion, a necessity to the aquarist maintaining a reef tank. There are May different types of protein skimmers...
 

ryanhayes9

Active Member
Air stone
The original method of protein skimming, it is not completely obsolete, although many newer technologies have eclipsed this method. The air stone is a ceramic block with an air hose attached that runs to a small air pump. The stone is placed at the bottom of a tall column of water. The tank water is pumped into the column, allowed to pass by the rising bubbles, and back into the tank. To get enough contact time with the bubble, these units can be many feet in height. While this method has been around for many years, many regard it as inefficient for larger systems or systems with large bio-loads.
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Downdraft
Pumped tank water enters through a small vertical column next to the main column that contains a plastic media that shreds the water, entrapping air in to the stream. The result is a milky white appearance of very fine bubbles. The stream enters a mixing box and is allowed to rise within the reaction chamber. This skimmer design was popular for larger skimmers but has become less prevalent with the growth of needle wheel and Beckett skimmer.
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Venturi
The premise behind these skimmers is that a venturi valve can be used to introduce the bubbles into the water stream. The tank water is pumped through the venturi, in which fine bubbles are introduced, and then enters the skimmer body. This method was popular due to its compact size and high efficiency but venturi designs are now more likely to be included in other skimmer designs rather than as a simple venturi design.
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Needle wheel
This skimmer design is more correctly known as an aspirating skimmer, since many skimmers in this family do not use needle wheels (needle wheel describes the look of the modified water pump impeller which appears to have a number of needles sticking from it) but instead use and water pump impeller with a number of pegged rods protruding from it. The purpose of these modified impellers is to chop or shred the air that is introduced via a venturi or external air pump into very fine bubbles. This style skimmer has become very popular and is believed to be the most popular type of skimmer used with residential reef aquariums today. It has been particularly successful in smaller aquariums due to its usually compact size, ease of set up and use, and quiet operation.
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Spray Induction
This method is related to the downdraft, but uses a pump to power a spray nozzle, fixed a few inches above the water level. The spray action entraps and shreds the air in the base of the unit, which then rises to the collection chamber.
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Beckett
This type of skimmer uses a foaming jet fountain nozzle manufactured by the Beckett Corporation in a protein skimmer design similar to the downdraft skimmer. Instead of using plastic media to produce the needed small bubbles as in a traditional downdraft design, a Beckett skimmer uses the Beckett 1408 foam nozzle. A Beckett skimmer can use very powerful water pumps to produce great amounts of foam and the Beckett skimmer design is often used for protein skimmers for large reef aquariums. Some larger Beckett skimmers are designed with 2 or more Beckett injectors and can use multiple water pumps to further improve the amount of foam produced and support even larger aquariums or further reduce the level of dissolved organic compounds in the aquarium. Beckett skimmers have borrowed from both downdraft and venturi designs (the Beckett foam head is a modified 4 port venturi) to produce a hybrid that may be more effective than its predecessors. However, while they can be quite powerful, Beckett skimmer designs requirement for powerful water pumps to take full advantage of their foam producing ability can mean that they sometimes use more electricity and may produce more noise than the smaller water pumps typically used in needle wheel skimmer designs. While there is debate over the merits of different skimmer designs many people consider Beckett skimmers to be the most powerful available for aquariums and they are particularly popular for larger aquariums. I thank wikipedia for help with that
 

ryanhayes9

Active Member
3- Power heads
Power heads re a necessity in marine aquariums. They are used to create a current in the water. Sort of like the waves do in the ocean. For a fowlr tank, (fish only with live rock) you will want to have a 10X tank turnover per hour distributed between at least 2 power heads. For example, if you have a 55 gallon tank, I would have 2 power heads doing at least 200 gallons per hour. If you are going to go reef you need at least a 20X turnover. then if you had a 55 gallon reef i would have 2 powerheads doind around 550 gallons per hour. Some reccomended brands of powerhead are maxijets. Note: do not buy the powerheads with the rotating nozzle. It becomes inoperable within a little while due to coralline or calcium build up etc.
4- lighting
This is not my area of expertise either. This is where you need to decide if u want a reef or a fowlr as a reef requires a stong lighting. There are power compacts, t5’s and metal halides. As this is not my area of expertise so I will leave this to the experts. https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/170123/saltwater-aquariums-101-lighting
5- Live rock and live sand / crushed coral
Live rock adds a “realistic” feel to your tank and also provides ways of filtration. Many marine aquariums have live rock. The usual recommendation is 1-2 pounds per gallon. This Is benefiscial also because little creatures called “pods” live and reproduce in the live rock(lr) and are a main food source for some fish and are also good for a well established tank. It normally runs around $5 a pound.
Live sand is a type of substrtae that MANY aquriust use and live. It, like lr, is full of beneficial creatures that will grown and reproduce in your tank. This In my opinion is also the best looking substarte there is. I normally keep about a 4 inch sand bed im my tanks.
Crushed coral is another type of substrate that is frowned upon my many aquariust. It has sharp edges and therefore cannot be kept with gobys that burrow or fish that stay on the substrate. It is also very hard to maintain as many waste particles become trapped within it and become mass nitrate producers.
6- Water/ salt mix
reverse osmosis(ro) water is highly reccomded in this hobby. This water is filtered through a process that getd rid of all the contaminants that tap water has. There are ro untis that can be purchased for this. There are also many different grocery stores that have ro water vending machines in them.they sell salt mix made especially for marine aquariums. i am a BIG supporter of red sea salt.

7- hydrometer or refractometer
these are used to measure the salinity of the water. Refractometers are more accurate, while hydrometers are cheaper. The salinity I keep my reef at is 1.026. for a fowlr yo can keep it at 1.023 but inverts prefer it a little higher.
8- heater
A heater is needed for a tank if it runs cold. Me, living in florida don’t need it, my tank runs about 80 degrees and that’s what I recommend keeping it at. Titanium heaters are good heaters and I have heard only good about won brothers heaters.
9- test kits
these are needed to test ur water during your cycle and to make sure your water parameters are in check during the life of youe tank. Salifert are great test kits.
10- setting up the tank
so you finally have all the equipment, sand, rock etc! now you want to set up the tank, alright, here are some steps to how I did mine.
1.I mixed the water and salt in the bare tank. NOTE: this is the ONLY time you can mix salt directly into your tank! Now turn on the powerheads and let this mix for about a day. Try to get the salinity near 1.026
2.now open the bags of sand and pour them in to your tank. It will be cloudy for maybe a day or two. This is normal. After this you can now add your lr and make some cool rock formations! NOTE: turn the powerheads off while doing this and for the next day. also if you think you might get fish that burrow in the sand, stack the rocks on the glass bottom and then add the sand
3.now that it has been a day or two and the sand and everything has settled, turn on all the equipment and watch your tank. Is it time for fish? NO! now that your tank is up and running it has to “cycle”, or build up beneficial bacteria. This process can take from 2 weeks to 2 months. Test your aquarium water every other day and write down your readings. You will first see ammonia levels rising. A few weeks or so later you should see the nitrite levels rising and the ammonia levels dropping. Finally, after a few more weeks you should see the nitrate levels rising and the nitrite levels dropping. When you no longer detect ammonia or nitrites but you can detect nitrates you can assume that it is safe to add your saltwater fish. Add only one fish every two weeks.
4.WoooHooo! Your tank is now complete
Fish you should avoid: https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/232470/list-of-fish-inverts-that-hobbiests-should-avoid
 

ryanhayes9

Active Member
now that i finished that.... if any of you guys have suggestions or things i should add please let me know.
BTW mods, i sort of wrote this as it could possibly become a sticky in the new hobbyist forum. i thought it would apply because it is a new hobbyist forum and there have been a lot of questions asked on how to start a tank. let me know... thanks
 

shrub125

Member
Ya i learned alot from the post i didnt know anything about the tests or the power heads but i still dont know much about the stuff i need to put at the bottem of the tank do i put sand??
 

swlover

Member
Yes you can put Live sand in there, they sell it at most of your local fish stores. Make sure it's live sand, though anything else must be rinsed, like crushed coral.
 

ryanhayes9

Active Member
Originally Posted by Shrub125
Ya i learned alot from the post i didnt know anything about the tests or the power heads but i still dont know much about the stuff i need to put at the bottem of the tank do i put sand??
yeah thats covered under live sand/ live roch/ crushed coral

thanks btw
 

hatessushi

Active Member
RyanHayes9 wrote;
2. now open the bags of sand and pour them in to your tank. It will be cloudy for maybe a day or two. This is normal. After this you can now add your lr and make some cool rock formations! NOTE: turn the powerheads off while doing this and for the next day.

I vehmenently disagree with this as some others do also especially if you have a glass tank. If sand is put in the tank before the rock then at some time when you get that cool diamond goby or other sand digger you could experience a major disaster. When the tunnel digger gets to the bottom of the rock and is moving the sand the rocks could very easily shift. If the rocks are stacked they could fall and break the tank or shift enough to crush the tunnel digger. I have a Daimond Goby and my rocks are stacked. It's a good thing I put the rocks in first so they wouldn't rest on the sand. I also have an acrylic tank so breaking the tank wasn't an issue. but I can tell you that this goby has dug all around my LR and has kept the sand clean around it. If my rock was on the sand they would no longer be stacked.
Another way to do it if you think you must put the sand in first is to put some egg crates cut to size so the when you put the rock in you can stabilize it with the crates.
 

krashpd

Member
Great post and very helpful. I have learned so much in the last month and I wish I would have read a post like that the first day. Great Job Ryan!
 

clown boy

Active Member
Just one thing I disagree with: A salinity af 1.026 is a bit high. I understand that invertabrates and corals prefer it higher, but some fish do not like it. A salinity of 1.023 is tolorable by all.
 

clown boy

Active Member
Also, 80 degrees for a tank is a bit high. I keep mine around 75, although there are some pros that say that the best is 73.
 

ryanhayes9

Active Member
well i said that i keep my REEF at 1.026. i know that 1.023 would be good for fowlr. i keep my reef at 80 degrees because at the equator where some corals come from it is 81 degrees. i belive dogstar runs his tank like this as well
 

ryanhayes9

Active Member
Originally Posted by Clown Boy
Or archiving it.
i would rather have it sticked here it applies to new hobby
 
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