pomacanthus13
Member
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Some questions about keeping dwarf seahorses
- Thread starter pomacanthus13
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flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pomacanthus13 http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501405
Well I sold the two seahorses I had to my LFS because I had them ID'ed as H. kuda which would grow way to big for my five gal tank. So I've been thinking of getting a few dwarfs but I had a few questions about there care. One, what do they eat? Every site has different info about feeding and I can't really be raising brine shrimp so would they eat some of the different live or dead pods or frozen baby brine shrimp they sell in stores?. Two, how many could I keep? Same as feeding, some sites say a pair, some say up to six. Three, how many times should they be fed a day? I have been told about three feedings a day, is this correct? So can somebody help me out with these questions?
They ONLY eat newly hatched baby brine shrimp. I would have kept the kuda and got a bigger tank.
Originally Posted by Pomacanthus13 http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501405
Well I sold the two seahorses I had to my LFS because I had them ID'ed as H. kuda which would grow way to big for my five gal tank. So I've been thinking of getting a few dwarfs but I had a few questions about there care. One, what do they eat? Every site has different info about feeding and I can't really be raising brine shrimp so would they eat some of the different live or dead pods or frozen baby brine shrimp they sell in stores?. Two, how many could I keep? Same as feeding, some sites say a pair, some say up to six. Three, how many times should they be fed a day? I have been told about three feedings a day, is this correct? So can somebody help me out with these questions?
They ONLY eat newly hatched baby brine shrimp. I would have kept the kuda and got a bigger tank.
pomacanthus13
Member
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flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pomacanthus13 http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501470
Ok, I actually bought them back from my LFS after doing more reading on keeping dwarfs (Wayyy to time consuming for me). So I am going to have an extra 29 gal tank available in a few months after I set up my new FOWLR tank. I currently don't have a extra filter and I will have to transfer my current wet-dry to the new FOWLR tank. So what kind of filter would be sufficient for the future seahorse tank?
Hi
...a tall tank is best..Kuda horses get pretty large, much bigger than the Erectus (such has been my experience anyway). Any kind of filter will do, from a HOB..to the canister, and the best of course is the sump. Keeping the temps at 74 seems to be the magic number to keep them healthy. Seahorses are very messy eaters, as I'm sure you have found out by now. The best way I have found to keep the tank water pristine are macroalgae. The macros feed on the nutrients, nitrates and phosphates that plague seahorse tanks. a good CUC of various snails are needed to help eat the extra wasted food and the algae. I also keep peppermint shrimp...most of the other horse keepers on the site say their seahorses eat the peppermints, but mine never have. I have kept Erectus, and right now I have Kuda and Potbelly seahorses (different tanks).
If you do use macros...they can get invasive (it grows everywhere)...and with all the food they have to feed on in such abundance, they can choke out corals. So if you want coral, you will need a refugium to keep the macros. If you are not going to bother with coral, then the macros will be very happy with the horses, and they make great hitches. I like the red macros, the Botryocladia (red grape) is a personal favorite, and the Caulerpa prolifera because it looks like turtle grass.
Originally Posted by Pomacanthus13 http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501470
Ok, I actually bought them back from my LFS after doing more reading on keeping dwarfs (Wayyy to time consuming for me). So I am going to have an extra 29 gal tank available in a few months after I set up my new FOWLR tank. I currently don't have a extra filter and I will have to transfer my current wet-dry to the new FOWLR tank. So what kind of filter would be sufficient for the future seahorse tank?
Hi
...a tall tank is best..Kuda horses get pretty large, much bigger than the Erectus (such has been my experience anyway). Any kind of filter will do, from a HOB..to the canister, and the best of course is the sump. Keeping the temps at 74 seems to be the magic number to keep them healthy. Seahorses are very messy eaters, as I'm sure you have found out by now. The best way I have found to keep the tank water pristine are macroalgae. The macros feed on the nutrients, nitrates and phosphates that plague seahorse tanks. a good CUC of various snails are needed to help eat the extra wasted food and the algae. I also keep peppermint shrimp...most of the other horse keepers on the site say their seahorses eat the peppermints, but mine never have. I have kept Erectus, and right now I have Kuda and Potbelly seahorses (different tanks).
If you do use macros...they can get invasive (it grows everywhere)...and with all the food they have to feed on in such abundance, they can choke out corals. So if you want coral, you will need a refugium to keep the macros. If you are not going to bother with coral, then the macros will be very happy with the horses, and they make great hitches. I like the red macros, the Botryocladia (red grape) is a personal favorite, and the Caulerpa prolifera because it looks like turtle grass.
S
saxman
Guest
Kuda can reach up to 12" uncurled length, so Flower is right on in that respect. As for keeping zots (H. zosterae), yes, it's time consuming, which is the reason we never kept them...it's like having SH fry that never reach adulthood.
As for food, zots are lazy little suckers and pretty much sit and wait for food to swim by. Artemia nauplii are one food they will eat, but adding copepods to their diet is really a good thing. You could easily keep 10 zots in a 5 gal tank.
If you go with erectus, reidi, or barbouri, you can keep a pair in a std. 29 gal.
As for food, zots are lazy little suckers and pretty much sit and wait for food to swim by. Artemia nauplii are one food they will eat, but adding copepods to their diet is really a good thing. You could easily keep 10 zots in a 5 gal tank.
If you go with erectus, reidi, or barbouri, you can keep a pair in a std. 29 gal.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501560
Kuda can reach up to 12" uncurled length, so Flower is right on in that respect. As for keeping zots (H. zosterae), yes, it's time consuming, which is the reason we never kept them...it's like having SH fry that never reach adulthood.
As for food, zots are lazy little suckers and pretty much sit and wait for food to swim by. Artemia nauplii are one food they will eat, but adding copepods to their diet is really a good thing. You could easily keep 10 zots in a 5 gal tank.
If you go with erectus, reidi, or barbouri, you can keep a pair in a std. 29 gal.
They eat copepods!...I learn something new all the time around here.
pomacanthus...PM me, maybe we can work something out....I have Kuda horses, and maybe I can take the ones you have off your hands to free you up to get some Erectus.
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501560
Kuda can reach up to 12" uncurled length, so Flower is right on in that respect. As for keeping zots (H. zosterae), yes, it's time consuming, which is the reason we never kept them...it's like having SH fry that never reach adulthood.
As for food, zots are lazy little suckers and pretty much sit and wait for food to swim by. Artemia nauplii are one food they will eat, but adding copepods to their diet is really a good thing. You could easily keep 10 zots in a 5 gal tank.
If you go with erectus, reidi, or barbouri, you can keep a pair in a std. 29 gal.
They eat copepods!...I learn something new all the time around here.
pomacanthus...PM me, maybe we can work something out....I have Kuda horses, and maybe I can take the ones you have off your hands to free you up to get some Erectus.
pomacanthus13
Member
.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pomacanthus13 http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501565
Well, I think I have an Idea but I'm still thinking about want I need to pull it off. My neighbor just took down his 55 gal freshwater tank and I can have the tank if I want it, I was thinking of putting the stuff food my planted FOWLR tank in there but maybe I can turn it into a big hippocampus tank. I could get this set up in a few weeks but I guess I need to make sure I get the right stuff for the tank. I still don't know what to do about the filter, I would really prefer a hang-on back one. Any recommendations? I really can't afford a sump or premade wet dry filter so my options are limited. Here's a list of stuff I'm planning on getting for the tank, let me know if I'm missing anything I would need.
Stuff I have
55 gal tall tank
Dual 48" T8 fixture
Glass canopy
Some macros I could add to the horse tank
Stuff I'm planning on getting
40 lbs of Dry base rock (I don't want any hitch hikers!)
50 lbs of live sand
Macro algae, probably C. Prolifera, hameldia, and sargassum
Some fake gorgonians (I have had bad luck with real one iin the past!)
Some fake sponges and corals
A heater (just in case)
Now a few questions,
1. What filter? Preferably hang on back
2. What lights? I will be running a dual 48" T8 fixture, I don't know what K rating would be best for macros
3. What species? I really like cuda and reidi could I do a combination of species?
4. Do I need power heads?
Please feel free to add to or modify the list!
YAYYYY...
First...the cooler temps are the problem, not heat...that means a chiller should be used, or you must keep the room the tank is in, on the cool side. that will be your most expensive purchase for keeping seahorses. Kuda and Reidi seahorses both require the temps around 74 degrees...the bacteria infections that will come when the temps are higher will kill them.
No glass tops. An open wood canopy around the top for looks is okay, but don't cover the tank up. Saltwater has less oxygen than freshwater. Also you will need a couple of power heads...HOWEVER, make sure the PH has no openings that a seahorse would try and hitch to and hurt their tails. So for example the Koralia brand is a no, no, since the propeller is exposed...I use the Seico brand on my tanks, so look at them and see the design I'm talking about...there are plenty of brands to choose from. You don't want to have the flow too strong, but you don't want the low flow to allow cyano a foot hold either, so you have to find the happy medium. The top has to be open and the water moving real well to keep the oxygen level up. A couple of air lines (no air stone) Just big bubbles will help to do that as well.
Macros do not require the extras lights that corals do...so the T8 you have is just fine....Provide your seahorses with a shady area where they can get out of the bright light. You could just turn off the back lights on the unit so the back is not so brightly lit. The macros won't care and grow anyway.
Seahorses are very messy eaters and waste the food... and that food quickly pollutes the tank with extra nutrients, cyano is a plague we all deal with. Lots of water changes will be needed to keep things under control until the macros can start doing their job of absorbing those extra nutrients. Lots of different snails for a CUC is needed as well.
We do not recommend more than one species per tank because of the different bacteria, seahorses are very susceptible to bacteria infections. So while the Kuda can handle Kuda cooties, from other kudas.. they will die if they get Reidi cooties, and the Reidi will die of Kuda cooties....so all the seahorses need their own kind to live with to prevent exposure to unknown cooties.
Sargassium macros are hard to keep, they need the cold temps of the potbelly tanks to make it...in the 60s. The prolifera and hameldia will be very happy with the Kuda or Reidi. The botryocladia is another really pretty macro that seahorses love to hitch to...I have plenty of it, hameldia and prolifera to share....Please don't waste your money to buy them...I have a ton of all three...I am just a little lazy on harvesting because of my health, but I really need to do it. I hate just tossing it out, and would much rather share and send you some....and it's perfectly fine to use it if you have it.
Fake stuff is fine until the macros grow out...once you have plenty of macro hitches you can remove the fake stuff...it just collects algae.
A hang on the back like the Whisper brand AND a canister filter would be best for a 55g if you can't do a sump system. 2 Whisper HOB will work as well. ...lots of filtration is going to be needed, and plan on a protein skimmer as well.
I use an in-tank CPR refugium on my Kuda tank...the macros grow all over the tank for hitches, I have the refugium to allow the amphipods a place to breed...the seahorses absolutely LOVE to eat amphipods...and without a breeding place they wouldn't have a chance.
I think that about covers all the stuff you asked about.
Live sand with just the good bacteria is fine..but live sand from another tank will have bristle worms in it. We do try and keep those out of the seahorse tanks.
Here are some video of my SH tanks...excuse to macro explosion...like I said, I need to harvest them.
This is my 56g tall Kuda tank
This is the 90g Potbelly tank
Originally Posted by Pomacanthus13 http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501565
Well, I think I have an Idea but I'm still thinking about want I need to pull it off. My neighbor just took down his 55 gal freshwater tank and I can have the tank if I want it, I was thinking of putting the stuff food my planted FOWLR tank in there but maybe I can turn it into a big hippocampus tank. I could get this set up in a few weeks but I guess I need to make sure I get the right stuff for the tank. I still don't know what to do about the filter, I would really prefer a hang-on back one. Any recommendations? I really can't afford a sump or premade wet dry filter so my options are limited. Here's a list of stuff I'm planning on getting for the tank, let me know if I'm missing anything I would need.
Stuff I have
55 gal tall tank
Dual 48" T8 fixture
Glass canopy
Some macros I could add to the horse tank
Stuff I'm planning on getting
40 lbs of Dry base rock (I don't want any hitch hikers!)
50 lbs of live sand
Macro algae, probably C. Prolifera, hameldia, and sargassum
Some fake gorgonians (I have had bad luck with real one iin the past!)
Some fake sponges and corals
A heater (just in case)
Now a few questions,
1. What filter? Preferably hang on back
2. What lights? I will be running a dual 48" T8 fixture, I don't know what K rating would be best for macros
3. What species? I really like cuda and reidi could I do a combination of species?
4. Do I need power heads?
Please feel free to add to or modify the list!
YAYYYY...
First...the cooler temps are the problem, not heat...that means a chiller should be used, or you must keep the room the tank is in, on the cool side. that will be your most expensive purchase for keeping seahorses. Kuda and Reidi seahorses both require the temps around 74 degrees...the bacteria infections that will come when the temps are higher will kill them.
No glass tops. An open wood canopy around the top for looks is okay, but don't cover the tank up. Saltwater has less oxygen than freshwater. Also you will need a couple of power heads...HOWEVER, make sure the PH has no openings that a seahorse would try and hitch to and hurt their tails. So for example the Koralia brand is a no, no, since the propeller is exposed...I use the Seico brand on my tanks, so look at them and see the design I'm talking about...there are plenty of brands to choose from. You don't want to have the flow too strong, but you don't want the low flow to allow cyano a foot hold either, so you have to find the happy medium. The top has to be open and the water moving real well to keep the oxygen level up. A couple of air lines (no air stone) Just big bubbles will help to do that as well.
Macros do not require the extras lights that corals do...so the T8 you have is just fine....Provide your seahorses with a shady area where they can get out of the bright light. You could just turn off the back lights on the unit so the back is not so brightly lit. The macros won't care and grow anyway.
Seahorses are very messy eaters and waste the food... and that food quickly pollutes the tank with extra nutrients, cyano is a plague we all deal with. Lots of water changes will be needed to keep things under control until the macros can start doing their job of absorbing those extra nutrients. Lots of different snails for a CUC is needed as well.
We do not recommend more than one species per tank because of the different bacteria, seahorses are very susceptible to bacteria infections. So while the Kuda can handle Kuda cooties, from other kudas.. they will die if they get Reidi cooties, and the Reidi will die of Kuda cooties....so all the seahorses need their own kind to live with to prevent exposure to unknown cooties.
Sargassium macros are hard to keep, they need the cold temps of the potbelly tanks to make it...in the 60s. The prolifera and hameldia will be very happy with the Kuda or Reidi. The botryocladia is another really pretty macro that seahorses love to hitch to...I have plenty of it, hameldia and prolifera to share....Please don't waste your money to buy them...I have a ton of all three...I am just a little lazy on harvesting because of my health, but I really need to do it. I hate just tossing it out, and would much rather share and send you some....and it's perfectly fine to use it if you have it.
Fake stuff is fine until the macros grow out...once you have plenty of macro hitches you can remove the fake stuff...it just collects algae.
A hang on the back like the Whisper brand AND a canister filter would be best for a 55g if you can't do a sump system. 2 Whisper HOB will work as well. ...lots of filtration is going to be needed, and plan on a protein skimmer as well.
I use an in-tank CPR refugium on my Kuda tank...the macros grow all over the tank for hitches, I have the refugium to allow the amphipods a place to breed...the seahorses absolutely LOVE to eat amphipods...and without a breeding place they wouldn't have a chance.
I think that about covers all the stuff you asked about.
Live sand with just the good bacteria is fine..but live sand from another tank will have bristle worms in it. We do try and keep those out of the seahorse tanks.
Here are some video of my SH tanks...excuse to macro explosion...like I said, I need to harvest them.
This is my 56g tall Kuda tank
This is the 90g Potbelly tank
pomacanthus13
Member
.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pomacanthus13 http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501596
Wow your tanks look amazing! I really love how the macro has covered everything in the kuda tank and the potbellied horses are adorable! Now I think I have a better idea of what's needed for this project and its looking more and more feasible for me. Thank you for all the info and let me know when you trim your macros because I would love some to start my tank!
LOL..I have an unending supply of macros as you can see in the video. Just let me know when the tank is set and ready...I am not really sure if it's okay to add macros before the cycle is complete. I always waited before adding any life, I THINK I read on the site once that macros can be added right away, but since I'm not sure I would rather stay on the safe side.
Be very sure you want a tank full of macros before adding the red stuff....if you want coral down the road, don't add red macros to your main system. The Prolifera is fine for a main tank and it's easy enough to control, but the Halymenia gets on everything and would choke the corals...The seahorses are so messy the macros grow like alien weeds.
Also I have learned to have a recognizable structure for the Halymenia macro to grow on, once the structure is covered it still has the basic shape...but if you have it on branches for example...it looks like a red mess. The Botryocladia (red grape vines) are also easy to control...but...mine are loaded with Halymenia spores, and if you add Botryocladia from my system you get both.
LOL...from 5g to 55g, I think you have the SW tank bug....it's very contagious.
Originally Posted by Pomacanthus13 http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501596
Wow your tanks look amazing! I really love how the macro has covered everything in the kuda tank and the potbellied horses are adorable! Now I think I have a better idea of what's needed for this project and its looking more and more feasible for me. Thank you for all the info and let me know when you trim your macros because I would love some to start my tank!
LOL..I have an unending supply of macros as you can see in the video. Just let me know when the tank is set and ready...I am not really sure if it's okay to add macros before the cycle is complete. I always waited before adding any life, I THINK I read on the site once that macros can be added right away, but since I'm not sure I would rather stay on the safe side.
Be very sure you want a tank full of macros before adding the red stuff....if you want coral down the road, don't add red macros to your main system. The Prolifera is fine for a main tank and it's easy enough to control, but the Halymenia gets on everything and would choke the corals...The seahorses are so messy the macros grow like alien weeds.
Also I have learned to have a recognizable structure for the Halymenia macro to grow on, once the structure is covered it still has the basic shape...but if you have it on branches for example...it looks like a red mess. The Botryocladia (red grape vines) are also easy to control...but...mine are loaded with Halymenia spores, and if you add Botryocladia from my system you get both.
LOL...from 5g to 55g, I think you have the SW tank bug....it's very contagious.
S
saxman
Guest
FWIW, here's a 50 gal pentagon SH setup we ran for several years:
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501618
FWIW, here's a 50 gal pentagon SH setup we ran for several years:
Now that is truly beautiful. Corals and macros controlled and kept up with instead of letting the macros run like wildfire...such as my tanks. I get a feeling of serenity just looking at it....now ...I am inspired to do my harvesting and clean up my tanks.
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501618
FWIW, here's a 50 gal pentagon SH setup we ran for several years:
Now that is truly beautiful. Corals and macros controlled and kept up with instead of letting the macros run like wildfire...such as my tanks. I get a feeling of serenity just looking at it....now ...I am inspired to do my harvesting and clean up my tanks.
pomacanthus13
Member
.
pomacanthus13
Member
.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pomacanthus13 http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501638
Oh, and before I forget how many kudas do you think I could keep in the 55 gal tank?
Hi,
I have 4 in my 56g tall....I bet you could do 6 max, they get pretty big but they don't do much but hang around...unless you seed the tank with amphipods. Mine are always on the hunt, and they do get pretty active when they are feeling romantic.
I have never stocked a tank to the max. Remember there are other critters that can live with seahorses. I have a Hector's Goby, 3 peppermint shrimp and two Blue stripe (tank raised) pipefish. The reason for the tank raised was because of the fear of bacterial infections. It was real dangerous to add pipefish with my horses, and it wasn't recommended. Unfortunatly, I only see the pipes once in a while...the red macros that over populate my tank make a perfect cover....My tank may not win any prizes for beauty, but I have some very happy critters who live in them.
I used a QT for the pipes and after 4 weeks, I slowly mixed the water, in hopes of letting the seahorses build a little immunity to their cooties. Nobody died in the tank, and it has been nearly a year, so I guess it worked.
There is a compatability chart at the top of the Seahorses and Pipefish section that will tell you what can and can't live with seahorses. Saxman and his wife Cranberry were kind enough to link us up from Seahorse.org on that subject...it's a big help.
Originally Posted by Pomacanthus13 http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3501638
Oh, and before I forget how many kudas do you think I could keep in the 55 gal tank?
Hi,
I have 4 in my 56g tall....I bet you could do 6 max, they get pretty big but they don't do much but hang around...unless you seed the tank with amphipods. Mine are always on the hunt, and they do get pretty active when they are feeling romantic.
I have never stocked a tank to the max. Remember there are other critters that can live with seahorses. I have a Hector's Goby, 3 peppermint shrimp and two Blue stripe (tank raised) pipefish. The reason for the tank raised was because of the fear of bacterial infections. It was real dangerous to add pipefish with my horses, and it wasn't recommended. Unfortunatly, I only see the pipes once in a while...the red macros that over populate my tank make a perfect cover....My tank may not win any prizes for beauty, but I have some very happy critters who live in them.
I used a QT for the pipes and after 4 weeks, I slowly mixed the water, in hopes of letting the seahorses build a little immunity to their cooties. Nobody died in the tank, and it has been nearly a year, so I guess it worked.
There is a compatability chart at the top of the Seahorses and Pipefish section that will tell you what can and can't live with seahorses. Saxman and his wife Cranberry were kind enough to link us up from Seahorse.org on that subject...it's a big help.
pomacanthus13
Member
.
S
saxman
Guest
For the most part, except for "quickie" pix, we use DSLR cameras (we're "Canon people"). We don't use flash photography (usually), and pretty much always use a tripod. To get the truest color, you should set your white balance to the tank's lighting. Be sure to focus your camera, and don't try to get closer than the minimum focusing distance of your lens (lots of peeps fall down here because they want "close-ups")...use the macro setting or get a dedicated macro lens for tight work on small subjects. Finally, take a lot of shots...digital pix are free.
novahobbies
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3520940
For the most part, except for "quickie" pix, we use DSLR cameras (we're "Canon people"). We don't use flash photography (usually), and pretty much always use a tripod. To get the truest color, you should set your white balance to the tank's lighting. Be sure to focus your camera, and don't try to get closer than the minimum focusing distance of your lens (lots of peeps fall down here because they want "close-ups")...use the macro setting or get a dedicated macro lens for tight work on small subjects. Finally, take a lot of shots...digital pix are free.
You know Greg, if you and Renee are free one evening during MACNA and want to come over to my place with you camera, you're MORE than welcome to!
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/393521/some-questions-about-keeping-dwarf-seahorses#post_3520940
For the most part, except for "quickie" pix, we use DSLR cameras (we're "Canon people"). We don't use flash photography (usually), and pretty much always use a tripod. To get the truest color, you should set your white balance to the tank's lighting. Be sure to focus your camera, and don't try to get closer than the minimum focusing distance of your lens (lots of peeps fall down here because they want "close-ups")...use the macro setting or get a dedicated macro lens for tight work on small subjects. Finally, take a lot of shots...digital pix are free.
You know Greg, if you and Renee are free one evening during MACNA and want to come over to my place with you camera, you're MORE than welcome to!