Specific Gravity question

scotikis

scotikis

Member
I modified my overflows and 'fuge to try and resolve a microbubble issue. As a result, my DT tank water level is slightly lower and my 'fuge water level is slightly higher. When the tank was set up on Dec 5, 08 I placed a piece of tape on the fuge indicating where my max fill level is, but I didn't move that tape up after my modifications. I'm in Pittsburgh with my furnace running all of the time and I have to top off practically every day with 1/2 to 1 gallon of water from my tap.
In the past 20 days my SG went from 1.018 to 1.024 and I assume its because I'm not topping off with enough water - because I didn't adjust my tape that tells me my max level.
Is there a tendancy for cycling tanks to see an increase in SG, or does my "not topping off w enough h2o" theory sound like the culprit?
 
rbrockm1

rbrockm1

Active Member
salt doesn't evaport so if your water level is lower from your mods and you haven't adjusted the salt level to go with it then i would say that is the prob.
I thought 1.024 is a good sg level??? not sure though.
i would like to know
 
scotikis

scotikis

Member
I was told that 1.024 emulates the ocean, but increases the possibility of disease. From what I've gathered, keeping a SG in the 1.021 range is optimal for a FOWLR. My LFS keeps his @ around 1.018-1.019.
 
ophiura

ophiura

Active Member
If you are doing a FOWLR, the lower specific gravity will likely kill some of the beneficial inverts in the LR, however not the bacteria that make up the biological filter.
IMO, there is no need to keep your tank at an artificially low specific gravity if you properly QT the fish. If you do not, the lower specific gravity will not prevent disease in the display. I would say 1.021 is common for a FOWLR, but not optimal (because it is lower than most "natural" reefs).
If there is any chance that you want snails, shrimp, crabs etc, you will want to keep the specific gravity higher because that is fatal for many.
Yes, you are right... your higher specific gravity is due to lack of top off. I would not suggest using tap water, personally, to top off but again if you are keeping a FOWLR it may not be a big issue. Could have issues with algae - I would do water tests on the water to see at least what nitrates, etc are at in it and a copper test wouldn't hurt.
I would also unplug everything and readjust the tape and "running level" line so you don't have to guess too much (plus have the confidence to know what will happen if the power goes out...eg that it will not overflow).
 
scotikis

scotikis

Member
Thanks Susan. I do plan on fathering snails, shrimps and crabs along with my fish and didn't know that lower sg can be fatal. I appreciate your input.
You mentioned properly QT'ing fish. My LFS guy is of the opinion that qt'ing only adds additional stress to an already stressed animal. His recommendation is to introduce the newcomers directly to the tank (of course, floating the bag for temp equalization then slowly adding DT h2o for acclimation.) I realize opinions abound on this subject, but i'm interested in knowing your opinion. If his tank is @ 1.019 and mine is @,,say 1.024 - do you think his recommended introduction in my system is going to create a fish that's more stressed than one that goes through dipping or QT?
 
aztec reef

aztec reef

Active Member
If i may throw in my two cents, I think QT your fish is primary for the prevention of desease going in DT..
All lfs keep specific gravity way low than the average hobiest, the reason behind that activity is to decrease the apperances of parasite,infections,deseases to be exhibited.
 
sepulatian

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by Scotikis
http:///forum/post/2888279
Thanks Susan. I do plan on fathering snails, shrimps and crabs along with my fish and didn't know that lower sg can be fatal. I appreciate your input.
You mentioned properly QT'ing fish. My LFS guy is of the opinion that qt'ing only adds additional stress to an already stressed animal. His recommendation is to introduce the newcomers directly to the tank (of course, floating the bag for temp equalization then slowly adding DT h2o for acclimation.) I realize opinions abound on this subject, but i'm interested in knowing your opinion. If his tank is @ 1.019 and mine is @,,say 1.024 - do you think his recommended introduction in my system is going to create a fish that's more stressed than one that goes through dipping or QT?
On the contrary, quarantining a fish reduces the amount of stress on the fish. You have to have a fully cycled QT so that there are no ammonia spikes though. A fish in a QT is by itself. It does not have to compete for food nor territory. The fish has a chance to calm down and get used to the foods that you feed without competition. A QT has other uses as well. You will be able to spot and treat disease without infecting your entire display.
I am sorry to say but this LFS is not giving the best advise. They do keep the SG low to mask illness. Some will also run a small amount of copper in the systems to keep parasite levels low. The parasites are still there though. That is why you should always quarantine your fish yourself. Bring the SG up slowly on your display. Just top off with saltwater rather than fresh water. Your optimal SG is 1.025-1.026. That is closest to natural seawater.
 
gmann1139

gmann1139

Active Member
Originally Posted by Scotikis
http:///forum/post/2888279
If his tank is @ 1.019 and mine is @,,say 1.024 - do you think his recommended introduction in my system is going to create a fish that's more stressed than one that goes through dipping or QT?
Even when you're acclimating a fish at 1.019 to a QT that's at 1.024, you are going to need to extend the drip time. I would probably go at least 3 hours, possibly four. You probably want to replace 3/4 of the water of the bag, in order to help the fish.
Oh, and just to echo what's already been said, after you have a diseased fish wipe out several others in your tank, you'll QT everything afterwards.
 
ophiura

ophiura

Active Member
So imagine you are a tiny little fish. Maybe a week ago you were minding your own business on a reef somewhere in the wild. Then you were caught. Then you were transfered to a holding facility after a long flight. Probably it is your first interaction with synthetic salt mix and different food. You are surrounded by lots of fish, many dying.
You are then packed up again, put on a plane, put in another little tank. You are jostled, you are bullied, you don't know the food, the water is weird.
For the first time in awhile, a fish you just bought has a chance to be calm. The point of a QT is not to be completely bare or new. It is an established tank, it has some place to hide, and ideally there are not other fish in there IMO. No bullies, no established fish who are defending their territories with you in their sight.
So a QT gives a fish a chance to settle and adapt. If they get sick, it leaves your options open for treating them. You can leave lights dim, you can try out foods.
There are a lot of philosophies on how or if to QT, whether straight into hypo or not. I'm not really going to go into the different arguments because many can be made either way. I have done QT and not...both with varying success.
But there are definitely big advantages to QT and I don't agree offhand with your LFS.
 
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