Squidd I'm Almost Ready To Move To The Basement!!

[squidd]

Originally Posted by Lubeck
Squidd,
A couple of things...
I bought a pressurized tank today for the ATO, thats what I needed right? I am really confused on how this is going to work. I am not sure if I got the right thing. Its a 15gal pre-charged pressurized tank.its by Flotec... ever heard of them?
>>> Yes..this is good<<<
anyway i think i need a pump or something.
>>> For..??<<<
I am doing the ATO on Sat. and just to be sure... I need to drain the water out of the return chambers, right? I might have a problem with the placement of the float valve due to the return pump. Also, how am I supposed to get a clean straight hole if I am suposed to be a 1/2" below D? I get my Ocean motion 4way tomorrow too. Lots to do!!
>>> How are you mounting Float Valve...? Are you drilling thru outside of sump tank, or adding bracket inside return chamber...?
Either way 1/2" below baffle is a couple inches above pump so you should have plenty of room...
Oh yeah, I did change my durso set-up and it is working very well. the fuge drain has NOOOOOO bubbles coming out, its amazing, thats the intake that is completely submerged. It is hard to tell if the bubbles have reduced because I have been gone all day and the lights are off. Also, because of evaporation, when I get home evey night the water is about 6 inches below on baffle D. I kinda want to wait to see if the bubbles subside... I will wait till sat-sun before I decide to do the manifold.
>>>Very possible the low water level (daily) sucked enough air in pump to produce a continuing problem...consistant water level will help eliminate that possibility...<<<
On another note... what ever happened with Leona's tank... did that ever happen?
>>> Yes, but she moved to another board...<<<
.

 

[lubeck]

Thanks for the response.
Can you go over the procedure on how to do the ATO. I don't remember anything about a bracket option. What do you recomment? And how does the pressure tank the ro/di and the ATO all tie together?

 

[squidd]

You got the Kent kit correct ..the one woth float valve and shut off pressure switch...correct..(pg 6)
So just follow the directions for the RO part of the hookup...then run enough linr to get to sump and where ever else you want to run it...
Then you have seen this pic before I take it....Pressure tank

 

[squidd]

It's just a "T" into the output line to build reserve and pressure...
You will have to find adaptors and parts to fit yours, but should be able to find every thing you need at a well stocked hdwr store...

 

[squidd]

Then when you get to sump drilling a hole in side is "probably" the easiest (if your up to drilling) otherwise you need to make some sort of bracket to hold the float valve level and then glue or clamp it in the return chamber to maintain level...

 

[lubeck]

It looks like there is water in the sump while you were drilling, is that right? The pressure tank holds 15 gallons that will be OK right? Also, I won't have to hang the tank above the sump, right?

 

[squidd]

Yep, I shut the pump down and lowered the water enough to clear the hole..
The put tape on inside glass to catch/minimize glass dust from falling in return chamber...
Pressure tank can go "anywhere"...pressure moves water not gravity...

 

[lubeck]

These are the parts to the Kent Float Valve:
Pressure activated solenoid
White nylon fitting with stainless steel check valve insert
1/8" male connector
Blue tubing
Yellow tubing
1/4" compression "T" fitting.
Float Valve
There are different types of Instillation:
Check Valve Installation
Solenoid installation
Float installation ( I understand this one)
It doesn't say how to hook into the pressurized tank
I am confused... Grandpa is coming over at 10:30am today... thats in an hour.

 

[lubeck]

bump

 

[squidd]

So I take it Grandpa wasn't much help...??

 

[squidd]

Check Valve installation...Goes at output end of membrane...between membrane and RO output line (which goes to pressure tank and then to float valve...)
Solinoid installation...There is an "in" and "out" and a pressure side...(3 connections)...Just past check valve, add "T" on RO output line...run to pressure connection on solinoid...Feed line (from house) goes to "in" side..."out" side goes to inlet of first prefilter...
Pressure tank installation...Some where down line of check valve and "T" to pressure switch, on the RO output line, add another "T" which goes to inlet of P tank...

 

[lubeck]

Thanks for the reply... this is going to take a minute to figure out but this a big help. I will... when I have some time put it all together and then take pictures for you to look at to make sure its right. I don't want to Blow up my pressure tank or something stupid before I turn it on.

 

[lubeck]

Hey Squidd, long time no talk. I finally hooked up my new closed loop and have had some issues with leaking so I will have to do some cutting. The cheato in the fuge is doing Ok but still have tons of brown hair algae all over the glass. Can I remove it? Also having problems with the durso still. it goes up and down... up and down. I tried drilling a bigger hole and just can't seem to tune it in. I am using a air valve from my old seaclone 150. I still haven't hooked up the auto top off but plan to in the week or so... i am on vacation. I would appriciate some input when the project starts. I will post some pics of how I think it should go. Thanks

 

[squidd]

Originally Posted by Lubeck
... The cheato in the fuge is doing Ok but still have tons of brown hair algae all over the glass. Can I remove it?
>>> Yes absolutly...gives macros a chance to boost malnutrient intake and may help delay/eliminate the reinfestation of the nuscience<<<
Also having problems with the durso still. it goes up and down... up and down. I tried drilling a bigger hole and just can't seem to tune it in. I am using a air valve from my old seaclone 150.
>>>> Have you switched to the lower "cup" on the 3/4" and only dealing with the one 1"..???<<<
I still haven't hooked up the auto top off but plan to in the week or so... i am on vacation.>>>

what's a "vacation"???<<
I would appriciate some input... >>> You take too many "vacations"...

<<<
...when the project starts.
I will post some pics of how I think it should go. Thanks

 

[lubeck]

Yes I am using the 1" and the 3/4" cup. I did drill another small hole and seems to be working so far.
I can't help having 12 weeks off a year. This is my third year being a culinary arts instructor and has been a 35 hour a week cut compared to working in the industry. I need to save up my strength for when I return to the "industry". might as well take it while i can.

 

[lubeck]

Yes I am still not done with the auto top off... Its the whole drill thing that is freaking me out. I went to homedepot and true value today and could not find a 5/8 diamond drill bit. There is no way I can rig a bracket because the lack of space. I am also thinking I won't be able to get the drill with a 5/8 bit between the front of the tank and the first baffle going into the return chamber... its not much room... without measuring, I would say its only 8".
In any case looking at your pics it looks like you used a dremel to drill.
I really want to get this done. Today I got the last pvc pieces to convert the pressure tank down to a 1/4" tubing. (It only took 8 Months.... I'm such an idiot.)
Anyway, need some input to get this hole drilled and exactly what I should do to make sure NO GLASS get in to the water.
thanks again.
did you ever get a new member of the family? inplace of your lion.

 

[lubeck]

I went to another hardware store and they only carry 1/2". He said I could bore the remainder with a dremil bit right? I called Ohio glass and said they would do it, but they didn't even have a 5/8" drill and would bore out the remainder. they told me it would take a day to do it so that won't work. I am not going to turn off my filtration for a whole 24hours. Too risky.
The kent float valve is only 1/2", I realize it needs a little extra space to get it in but don't think I have to go that big. I might try to use the 1/2" and bore the rest out with a dremel. What do you think?

 

[squidd]

Yep..
Some guys have had luck with a Roto-Zip and ceramic tile cutting bit, But I use the Diamond Rasp Bit and My Trusty Dremel tool...
5/8" and 9/16" glass bits are a hard find in a "generic" store like HD.. So the grinding out is S.O.P.

 

[lubeck]

Originally Posted by Squidd
Yep..
Some guys have had luck with a Roto-Zip and ceramic tile cutting bit, But I use the Diamond Rasp Bit and My Trusty Dremel tool... What is a rasp bit? and what part of the dremel tool do you use?
5/8" and 9/16" glass bits are a hard find in a "generic" store like HD.. So the grinding out is S.O.P.
What does S.O.P. mean???
How long is the diamond bit? I only have 8" of clearance.. Unless.... I try to move my entire bench and tank and come in through behind it, to get to the return chamber.. that may be only choice... that will really suck if thats what i have to do to get the hole drilled.

 

[squidd]

S.O.P =Standard Opperating Proceedure
Dremel Rasp "Bit" fits in Dremel tool and will rasp out or open hole to fit... This pic is of glass Drill $12 hdwr store..
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/show...3&postcount=13
I put mine in from the outside. with water in sump...Lower to clear, add tape to inside to catch glass "dust" use "Ball End" Diamond Dremel bit to start hole, widen out to 1/2" with glass bit shown above... and then use Diamond Rasp bit to open to fit...
Bits are about $ 9 in the Dremel cabinet at the Hdwr store...and about 1" past Dremel tool chuck..
So why you drilling inside a baffle..."in" the tank..??