Squidd. Need your help on overflow box.

[squidd]

Aqua C's are a proven preformer for this sized tank and Jebo's are well....cheap...
If you do go with a HOB skimmer you could make the overflow skimmer chamber smaller (maybe 5") and the return chamber could be shaved to 8" (including baffle) and the fuge made larger.... then I think your good to go...

 

[sco999]

Well you talked me into it, I will order the aqua c remora pro skimmer, and try to pawn off the crap jebo skimmer. Any suggestions on what pump to get with the remora pro? The ones I have seen so far come with either a rio, or a mag 3. Will I be able to use the remora pro on a future uprade of 180-240 gallon? If not would the regular remora work ok, or would you still suggest the pro?
Also how thick, how tall and how many pieces of glass will I need to have cut for baffles and dividers?
Thanks for all your much needed help, you have been awesome!!!!!

 

[squidd]

Rio or Mag...Definetly Mag...Rio or Maxi...Definetly Maxi....
Remora will not be transferable to 180-240...At that point your looking at a Euro Reef 8-3 or bigger...
But for now...get the Pro...
For your design above 3 baffles ..1/4" thick...make them all 16" X width of tank...
Mount two on bottom and one 2" up from bottom...

 

[squidd]

You know...
I've noticed you've "changed" your posts a time or two before I get to answer them...

 

[sco999]

Sorry,
I have been thinking about this stuff all day long, all night long, and in my sleep. After I post a reply I seem to always rethink what I have said, and find a better way to put it, or think of something I missed or want to change. Instead of posting a new reply I have been making use of the edit button.
My Bad!!!

 

[sco999]

Do you know where I can get a remora c pro, a U tube, and a maxi-jett 900. I can find places with one or the other, including that auction site, but I don't want to pay shipping 3 times. I have found other online stores that have remora, and maxi jet, but no u-tubes. Also will I need to use flex tubing or pvc? So how much of the plumbing will I be able to get from local hardware or plumbing supply store, and what will need to come from aquarium supply store? I would like to try to order plumbing, u tube, remora, and maxi-jet from one source.
Thanks so much!!!!

 

[sco999]

Is the sump design I have chosen a good one? Is there anything I should do differently, or will this work well? Is 2" between the overflow skimmer chamber wal,l and the baffle a good number?
Thanks

 

[squidd]

You'll probably have to get the U tube, specimen boxes, skimmer SCWD, bulkheads and pumps from a LFS or on line...the rest of the plumbing, parts, tubing PVC and fittings you should be able to find at a local Hdwr store...
I can't give links on this site, but if you look for some of the on-line suppliers that send out "Catalogs" and you'll find the stuff you need...
Narrow overflow/skimmer chamber to 5" ...2" is good for the baffles..another 6" for the return pump and the rest fuge...

 

[sco999]

Ill get them online them. My local fish store sucks. They told me all I needed to start was a cannister filter, crushed coral, and some salt. They also said I could have a yellow tang, naso tang, a huma huma, some damsels, and a couple of perculas in my 38 gallon!!!!
Thank god I bought some books and found this sight.
Also I have well water which I had tested: PH=7.6, no nitrates, no nitrites, trace phosphates. Should I have complete testing done by local water supply company to determine if I need a RO? Or should I just plan on biting the bullet?

 

[squidd]

What do you concider "trace" of phosphate...? (ppm...)
Silicates is a "standard" test that will help convince you to go RO...
Or just follow the lead of 90% of the other hobbiests and bite the bullet..:yes:

 

[sco999]

They didn't give me a number just told me "trace".
Do you think you could help me out with plumbing. I have no clue to what size pipe, how many unions and where, how many ball valves and where, fittings, etc.
That would be awesome!
Thanks so much Squdd, you have been great.
Sco999

 

[sco999]

Should I have a baffle set on the fuge side as well, or is this unecessary in my situation. If so, would it also be 2" off bottom?
I think I am getting an idea of what will be needed for plumbing.
1" pvc coming off of overflow with a ball valve right below overflow bulkhead and then a union right below ball valve, then 1" pvc going to Y fiting. 1" pvc coming off of Y, 1 line to skimmer chamber with ball valve to adjust flow, 1 line to fuge with ball valve to adjust flow.
1" pvc coming off of Mag 9.5 with union right above water level. 1 inch pvc to ? ? ? (this will have to be some kind of fitting to go from 1" pvc to barb type fitting to except flexline for SCWD inlet, which I think is 3/4"). Then 2 U tube outflows, one to each side of tank.
Should I go with a Y to split the overflow, or use a T?
Am I getting closer?

 

[squidd]

Originally posted by sco999
Should I have a baffle set on the fuge side as well, or is this unecessary in my situation. If so, would it also be 2" off bottom?
>>> At the rate "this" system will be flowing and the depth of the return chamber a second baffle on the fuge side will noot be neccessary...<<<
I think I am getting an idea of what will be needed for plumbing.
1" pvc coming off of overflow with a ball valve right below overflow bulkhead and then a union right below ball valve, then 1" pvc going to Y fiting. 1" pvc coming off of Y, 1 line to skimmer chamber with ball valve to adjust flow, 1 line to fuge with ball valve to adjust flow.
>>> On the drain side with HOB overflow, no ball valve will be neccessary under bulkhead... drop to horizontal PVC and then "T" off bottom leg of T for fuge feed...ball valve on fuge side only to adjust flow "IF" line set is laid to favor skimmer chamber...otherwise one on each to ballance flow<<<

 

[squidd]

Originally posted by sco999
1" pvc coming off of Mag 9.5 with union right above water level. 1 inch pvc to ? ? ? (this will have to be some kind of fitting to go from 1" pvc to barb type fitting to except flexline for SCWD inlet, which I think is 3/4"). Then 2 U tube outflows, one to each side of tank.
>>>"Suggest" Spa Flex from pump to union (to eliminate vibration) then to SCWD then to tank...(per drawing for "basics")<<<
Should I go with a Y to split the overflow, or use a T?
>> The SCWD "IS" the "T" in the return line...<<<
Am I getting closer?

 

[squidd]

Here's layout for SCWD return...edit: should read 3/4" PVC elbows "over" 3/4" spa flex for outlets to tank

 

[sco999]

How deep below the water surface should outflows, and lines into skimmer chamber and fuge be? How much room should I leave at top of sump/fuge for backwash?

 

[sco999]

DUDE YOU ROCK!!!!!!

 

[sco999]

Do you know what thread is on the input side of the mag-drive 9.5. I am ordering some more equipment and found some strainers. Would I need a strainer with 1" MPT? They have one that is 3.5" long and one that is 6.5" long. Should I get the shorter one?
Thanks so much.

 

[squidd]

Get the shorter one...
The Mag input is 3/4" FPT and you will need a 3/4"mpt to 1"fpt nylon adaptor for the strainer (hdwr store part)

 

[sco999]

How deep below the water surface should outflows, and lines into skimmer chamber and fuge be? How much room should I leave at top of sump/fuge for backwash?