Squidd. Need your help on overflow box.

sco999

sco999

Member
If I am going to use a durso standpipe will I need to drill the hole for bulkhead to one side or will there be enough room to fit durso if I drill it in the center? Also will I need a clamp on the spaflex tubing that is going over return pump outlet? Spaflex from return pump outlet all the way to SWCD, correct? Spaflex will fit over bothends of union, then clamped, correct? What type of fitting will I use to go from 1" spaflex to 3/4" spaflex?
Almost there!!!
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Drill bulkhead off to side of specimen box to get Durso to fit...you also need room for "U" tubes to go over the top...
If you slide Spa Flex over mpt on pump you will need a clamp (plastic "click clamps" are available...or you could get a 3/4"fpt to 1' hose barb adaptor on the pump and the spa flex will not slip off...
Get 1" "slip fit" ends on union and glue in ...then you can either get a 1" to 3/4" slip adaptor from the union and run 3/4" spa flex to the SCWD (will slide over SCWD 1/2"hose barbs) or...run 1" Spa up to SCWD and then a 1" to 3/4" bushing to the SCWD 1/2" hose barb...
Anything "out" of the water can be clamped with SS hose clamps...
The "bushing" mentioned above can be as simple as a short (1" ) piece of 3/4" spa sliped and glued into the 1" spa...and then clamped to the SCWD...
 
sco999

sco999

Member
My sump/fuge is going to be directly under the Main tank. I will need two 90deg elbows (1 90deg elbow to get pvc under tank, then one 90deg elbow to get pvc down into sump/fuge. This would mean that the water would have to flow through 3 90deg bends to reach sump and 3 90deg bends to reach fuge (1st 90 - tee to horizontal, 2nd 90 to get under Main Tank, 3rd 90 to get down into sump/fuge). Will this restrict my drain flow to much? If so, is there a better way to get drains down into sump/fuge without so many 90deg bends, like spaflex?
Also on the small specimen box for overflow, do the teeth need to be cut on all three sides, or just the front?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
You should be able to drop a line from the overflow...then 45 into the horizontal under the tank... Not sure why you need so many 90s...?
Look again at the pic... I don't have any teeth on the overflow...
But you could cut them in the front edge if you wanted...
 
sco999

sco999

Member
Ok, so the horizontal line will be pushed under the main tank with a 45 that makes more sense. I wasn't going to use the weir lip, I want to use teeth instead, like the pic of the overflow box with the holes, except I will use teeth instead of holes. Will I need the teeth on all three sides if I dont use the lip. Teeth will be 3/16 wide 1/2" deep 1/4" apart. Also how far up from bottom of inner box and outer box should end of U tube be? 1" or so?
Thanks again
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Yeah a good inch or so on the U tube...too close to the bottom and it can restrict flow...
Those sized teeth should be good to start, how many or if you need to go around the sides will depend on how the HOB's flowing...
If water bulds up over the top, you'll need more slots...
 
sco999

sco999

Member
Would to many slots create a problem? If not I'll just put them on all three sides to begin with, then if needed make them larger. What do you suggest?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
I suppose more is better... then you don't have to pull it and do it twice...:D
I don't think you can get "too many" in the sides of a specimen box...
 
sco999

sco999

Member
"Alrighty Then" all three side shall have teeth! Where can I get one of those fancy airvalves for durso stand pipe? What kind of glue did you use on the

[hr]
inserted into the endcap? What size

[hr]
and what kind of tubing did you use? 1/8" ID?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
That's just a basic air pump style air valve...nothing special...Probably find them in the FW section at WallMart...
No glue, just drilled a hole and stuck it in...
No tubing connected to airvalve...:notsure:
 
sco999

sco999

Member
The picture I saw had a piece of tubing with 1 end attatched to a

[hr]
that was inserted into the top of the endcap, and the other end had the airvalve attatched. Must have been someone else's durso.
Also I had a couple of questions regarding overflow U Tubes, outflow U tubes, and SWCD.
1. How do you stabalize the U Tubes in the overflow box?
2. How do you stabalize the U Tube Outflows to the tank?
3. Does the SWCD need to be attatched to the tank or stand?(The instructions said to attatch it to the tank using a coat hanger.)
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
1. U tube will stay in place by weight of water...
2.Hanging over the back keeps outputs in place...
3 Hanging between outlets and supported by tube from pump holds SCWD in place...no coathangers needed...
This Durso has an airvalve but no tubing...Durso with airvalve
 
sco999

sco999

Member
I got my Mag 9.5 today, and there were no suction cup feet with it. Is it going to be really noisy if I set it directly on the bottom of sump/fuge? If so what would be the best solution?
Also I am in the process of building my canopy to house my 250W MH. I have 2 fans with thermostats, I will put one in each end of the canopy, one blowing air in, and one blowing air out. My light is going to be 10" off the water. How far above the water should my fans be placed in my hood?
Thanks So Much,
You Rock!!
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Mag should have come with foam pad to set on...
I like fans below lights, blowing in angled toward surface of water...
Cool the water not the lights...excess heat will go through holes in top of canopy carrring light heat as well..
 
sco999

sco999

Member
Where could I get one? Could I just use the foam cartridge off of my old HOB aquaclear power filter, or would it be to pourous, and cause detrius bulid up?
Let me know where I can get one: toolingdesign at yahoo dot com.
Thanks again
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Best would be a closed cell neoprene (like a wet suit) type foam...That's what they usually come with...then a stick tape to attach to pump..
Most any closed cell foam will work, look around the house, you probably have some laying aound...Knee pad protectors, even a mouse pad (minus the cloth )
Or you can use an open cell foam, but wil have to clean it from time to time..
 
sco999

sco999

Member
Hey there again squidd. I have run into a situation. The 38 gallon I was planning on using was previously used as a FW tank and I used copper based med in it. Needless to say I will be buying a new tank and I was thinking of going with a 45gallon because it has the same dimensions as the 38 except for the height. Any how, if I go with the 45 gallon with 90 lbs of LR, will the overflow box with 1" bulkhead going into the 29Gallon sump/fuge with Mag 9.5 return pump through SCWD, and one maxijet 900, be enough to achieve the 20x goal. If not, what would I need to achieve this goal of 20X? Could I still reach it with the mag 9.5 or would I need to upgrade. I would like to be able to achieve this without replacing the return pump. What would you suggest?
Also what brand, and what size heater would you recommend? Where in the sump/fuge should it be placed?
Thanks so much.
P.S. my canopy is almost finished, and I hope to do a test run next weekend. Thanks to "Master Squidd".
 
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