Squidd - old thread ?

trompet3

Member
I know it's probably annoying that everyone asks for you in the thread titles, but I was reading some info you posted in an old post about flow through bulkheads...
"How much flow do you need out of the bulkhead...
3/4" will allow you 250-300 gph...
1'" will allow 500-700 gph...
You will get more if you place it lower in the tank (water pressure will increase flow) less if it's higher, or more if you drill it low and add a "riser tube" ( which will give you "siphon" effect)."
Had a follow up (posted a similar thread in reef with no answer a while ago)...I'm planning a bigger tank right now and still not sure on the size of the tank. I think I may go with the 240 from GC (unless anyone can point me to another good tank source for similar $$). I need to know how many overflows to have them drill and how big. I am planning on drilling 9-10 holes in the back for an 8-way oceans motion. I'm only using a sump for the convenience of auto topoff/kalk addition/exit for my external skimmer/carbon. No fuge anymore.
To the question....first, what are bulkheads bigger than those listed above capable of? Second, what do you think about how many overflows and what sizes? What do you think about having an overflow drilled in the top of the tank vs. a regular one drilled in bottom with the box surrounding it? What do you think about the 8-way?
Thanks in advance.
 

squidd

Active Member
No Problem..Actually putting my name in the post is the best way to get my attention.... :D
I'm on a couple boards now so I pretty much fly through the threads, hitting the ones with "catchy titles", points of interest or my name...
When I have more time (not too often, lately) I try to read them all..
Anyway....
3/4"...250-300
1"......500-700 (I've done 740 gph measured... "maybe" a good setup could get more)
1 1/4"..800-900
1 1/2"..1200-1350
2"........2200-2350
Again these are for "bottom drilled" gravity drains...go toward the lower side if you side drill...
Upper corner drains work well if you "up size" them one notch from gph's listed and leave a good bit of floor space open for rock work or additional C/L holes/outlets...
Run most of your flow C/L style with the O/M unit and just send enough flow to the sump to keep the skimmer happy...(maybe 1 1/2 X the skimmer pump rating) then you won't have overflow or "bubbles in my sump" issues...
8 way is cool, but I think 4 is probably plenty for most tanks (with the same gph)..Too many variable outlets and water becomes "Kaotic" and loses it's "purpose" and direction...
I like a combination of linear and random flow with "purpose" over 52 short "jets" of water going nowhere...
 

trompet3

Member
Do you think 8 jets in a 240g is too much, with some of those just blowing in the rockwork?
Also, what other tank manufacturers do you or anyone recommend?
 

squidd

Active Member
No, a 240 is a good sized tank and could "fit" the extra outlets, especially if you stick one on each side and the others in the back...also would suggest the 4 pair drum rather than an 8 single...
Glass Cages is a good choice on the tank...
 

squidd

Active Member
No, I'm saying get a "paired drum" like the version 2 or 3 ...
And then be conscious of how the outlets are "plumbed" as pairs, so you don't end up opposing or canceling flow...
 

dskidmore

Active Member
Originally Posted by Squidd
3/4"...250-300
1"......500-700 (I've done 740 gph measured... "maybe" a good setup could get more)
1 1/4"..800-900
1 1/2"..1200-1350
2"........2200-2350
Again these are for "bottom drilled" gravity drains...go toward the lower side if you side drill...
Good data as always Squidd, someday I'm going to want a list of what's in your library.
Anyway, I'm currently building my own overflow box. The pump I'm looking at (not absolutely final yet) will push around 600 GPH at my head rating. I'm trying to decide between one U tube or two. (built with PVC fixtures) I hear if your U-tubes are oversized, they are more likely to develop air bubbles. If I put in two U tubes, each capable of 600 GPH, then if one fails I don't end up with water all over my living room. But then they might be more prone to failure if they're running at half capacity most of the time.
I wish I could find the origional thread I got my idea from, but this is going to be a PVC pipe overflow, only I'm adding an acryllic box for surface skimming. I'm not going to get the full ratings above with this design, I'm thinking of 2x 1" overflow assemblies, with 1x 1" drain. I am going to use a bit of clear PVC at the top so I can monitor bubble buildup.
 

squidd

Active Member
Originally Posted by DSkidmore
Good data as always Squidd, someday I'm going to want a list of what's in your library....
.
Good luck...it's all up here... :thinking: ....
:D
There's a thread I did awhile back on "U Tube" sizing...
Somewhere...
 

dskidmore

Active Member
Thanks!
I've lost enough links that I'm making an index for myself. When I make the saline switch, I'll probably post alot of those links with my version of the "See My New Tank" thread that seems to be in vogue.
 

dskidmore

Active Member
Hrm... After digesting that info, I'm much more compelled to go with the threaded fittings, so I can experiment as necessary. I'll start with the 1" U.
While we're talking about my plumbing, any experience with Spa-Flex? One vendor says it can work with standard Schedule 40 PVC fittings, primer and a thick PVC solvent. Another vendor (or at least the guy standing in the isle) says it's not compatable with Schedule 40 PVC. I want to avoid extra elbows, and just ease the hose out of the sump and around the stand.
 

trompet3

Member
From everything I've heard around here, it is compatible with sch. 40.
I'm planning on using it for my new tank.
 

squidd

Active Member
"Spa Flex" ...(the whitw flexible PVC hose) is compatable in sizing and gluing with standard schd.40 slip fittings...
That's why I reccomend it over the clear / braided hoses...
 

dskidmore

Active Member
Day one of stand building went fairly well; although (of course) everything took longer than planned. My grandfather's old router is severely underpowered, I need to look at ways of removing most of the material with the saw first. We got all the 4x4s cut to length, and most of the side pannel groves cut. We're starting on the series of half-lap joints. I did take, and had someone else take, some pictures. Nothing terrably interesting, just proof that we were working.
 

squidd

Active Member
I did take, and had someone else take, some pictures. Nothing terrably interesting, just proof that we were working.
OK...So where are they..??? :D
 

dskidmore

Active Member
On the film, in the camera. Come on, you've been in this hobby long enough to learn patience!

I do want to go digital before I go reef though, it's invaluable in diagnosing problems and getting recomendations on aquascaping.
 

dskidmore

Active Member
Arg!!!
I put together my 1" diameter assembly, and it's only pushing around 90 GPH! The inlet strainer is always full, there are no air bubbles showing in my view window. I've tried both sumberged and exposed outlets on the end of the pipe.
It could just plain old be too many elbows.
I do need to release some pressure on the return line, I overestimated the head distance, and overpowered the pump. Poor fishies can barely swim when the pump is on!
(Yes, digital camera, not worth beans, but suffices for this purpose.)
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Somehow 101 original ended up in the Archives, where I already had it listed in the Plumbing Topic, so I'm returning it here. FYI
 
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