Stand Build

yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
Hello all,
I am looking to upgrade my QT from a 10 gallon to a 20 gallon long, and want to build a stand for it. Eventually I am also going to be building a stand for a 75 gallon I plan to set up, so figure the 20 gallon stand will be good practice.
So, my current plan is to build the stand out of 2x4s. I haven't drawn up anything yet, I'll do that tomorrow, but figured I'd start asking for advice. I currently don't plan on putting any kind of a skin on it as its just for a QT, but if I structurally need it I'll just use standard plywood.
So, any advice you all have for me before I get going would be greatly appreciated. :)
Also, on a side note, will a 75 watt heater be able to handle a 20 gallon tank?
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/392540/stand-build#post_3486232
Hello all,
I am looking to upgrade my QT from a 10 gallon to a 20 gallon long, and want to build a stand for it. Eventually I am also going to be building a stand for a 75 gallon I plan to set up, so figure the 20 gallon stand will be good practice.
So, my current plan is to build the stand out of 2x4s. I haven't drawn up anything yet, I'll do that tomorrow, but figured I'd start asking for advice. I currently don't plan on putting any kind of a skin on it as its just for a QT, but if I structurally need it I'll just use standard plywood.
So, any advice you all have for me before I get going would be greatly appreciated. :)
Also, on a side note, will a 75 watt heater be able to handle a 20 gallon tank?
2x4s is actually pretty overkill for a 20g long. Are you wanting to build it just functional or are you wanting to build it so that it is a piece of furniture that will become part of your home?
I can show you a way to do it where it will not only adequately support your tank, but also look good doing it. :D
 
yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
At this point I'm just thinking something to hold up the tank. The problem is as soon as it's done I'll probably decide I want it to look nice.
Obviously when the time comes for the 75 gallon stand I'll want it to look nice, and have already been doing some research concerning that and have paid attention to different threads concerning stand build (including yours).
I know the 2x4s are overkill. Should I just go with 2x2s?
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/392540/stand-build#post_3486254
At this point I'm just thinking something to hold up the tank. The problem is as soon as it's done I'll probably decide I want it to look nice.
Obviously when the time comes for the 75 gallon stand I'll want it to look nice, and have already been doing some research concerning that and have paid attention to different threads concerning stand build (including yours).
I know the 2x4s are overkill. Should I just go with 2x2s?
It really depends on what you are going for...
2x2s would be fine with me, as long as it was built with plenty of braces / cross braces. PERSONALLY...
I would buy a 4ft long 1"x12" piece of good looking pine and cut it in half for the ends. Then, I would buy two 4" long pieces of 1"x6" pine and cut those in two as well, so you would have all of your upright supports. Then, all you would need is 14 foot of 1"x3" or 1"x4" pine and you would have your top rim and your bottom rim. Might put a couple braces at the top and bottom across the middle... and you would have to buy a door big enough to fit what is left... What I am really saying is... it doesn't have to be a whole lot of work to make something beautiful that is also very functional.
Most pre-made 20g stands aren't built out of solid wood... they are made of that horrible MDF board... I shiver just thinking about using that for a stand. Another thing about buying pre-made is that you usually have to settle for a much smaller sump. ANYWAYS, now I am just talking. lol
IT also depends on your skills with carpentry... and if you have the tools already to do a job.
 
yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
Well if I make it look pretty (today I'm leaning that way) I'll want it oak, so I'll probably use 2x2 lumber for the main frame and an oak plywood skin with trim. Didn't get around to the drawings today.
I know what you mean about the crappy pre-made stands. I got one of those for my 55, after a couple years it started to absorb water. Which one of may reasons I decided to take down the tank and start over (with a 75), others being the center brace on the 55 broke and I want a bigger sump (going with a 30 gallon this time).
I don't have tons of experience in carpentry work, but have worked with wood in the past. Building the frame will be a piece of cake, but the finishing work might take some getting used to (which is why I want to practice on this stand). I do however have a friend who has a nice shop, so I'll have access to all his equipment (table saw, chop saw, router table, drill press, ect...).
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
To be honest, I wouldn't even build a frame for it. The 240g stand that I am working on right now doesn't have a "frame"... the whole thing is a decorative frame.
How tall do you want the stand? 24"? 30"?
I can draw you a diagram really quick that shows you basically step by step how to do it.
 
yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
Well what would be easier, build a frame and skin it or build the entire stand decorative? I'm thinking along the lines of a cabinet stand, just to make sure we're thinking along the same lines.
For my QT 30" would be fine. I'll probably want to go higher with the stand for the 75 though.
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
"skinning" with 1/4" sheet of plywood isn't near as good as going ahead and using a quality solid wood board.
20g long right? 30" tall stand?
2x 6'x12"x1" solid wood boards. I like oak but if you are painting it, pine works.
3x 6"x4"x1" boards
Decorative trim of your choice.
Cut the 2 large boards into 30" lengths. You will have two, one foot boards left from it. Keep them.
Cut two of those boards with a table saw long ways, leaving one side 3" wide and the other the remainder. Now you have your upright boards! The unsplit boards go on the sides, the 3" wide boards go in the back and the remainder goes in the front.
the 4" wide boards are going to be cut out and used as part of the top and bottom frame. You can leave a lip and route it, or you can route the edges and let the tank sit on the wood uprights and use the 4" wide wood to cover the base of the tank. It's your choice. The rest of the 4" wood you are going to use for the bottom frame work, a middle back support, and some finish work... basically framing in the front of the cabinet.
The cabinet door is made from the two pieces of board that are left over. I would take them and use some spare wood to fit them together and use some wood glue... (by the way, you should wood glue it all anyways....) and then route the edges of the cabinet. Hinges are cheap, should only take two.
All in all, maybe a half a days work (for me at least.) It's the sanding, staining, polyurethaning etc. etc. that takes the most time.
I use a finishing nailer on some of it. Other times I use a pocket hole jig to keep from seeing any screws.
 
yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
So you mean something like this:

That sounds like a good way to build the 20 gallon stand. For the 75 though I want to do a standard lumber frame with a solid oak skin.
This is my current plan for the frame for the 75 gallon:
 
yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
Ah, I gotcha. The way you used the 1x4 eliminates the need for plywood over the stand. I like it.
I also had the front and back switched so I had two doors in the front instead. Simply a personal choice (more symmetrical).
So I'd miter the top and bottom 1x4s and use pocket screws for those to build the frame and attach it to the uprights. As for the uprights themselves, any suggestions on the best (meaning nicest looking) way to do it?
I like that design. As long as you routed all the edges you wouldn't really need any trim.
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
You mean screwing the uprights together? Yeah, pocket holes on the inside. You need to get them as flush as possible, and more than likely you will have to sand it down as smooth as you can.
Route any of the edges you like! I didn't go into detail with the drawing because of the time limit I am setting myself tonight. lol
Remember though, if you are going to "smooth over" the four corners of the stand, you will have to pocket hole the uprights together first, and then use the router to smooth the edges out. That way your router can reach every spot and you can get a nice smooth cut.
 
yannifish

yannifish

Active Member
Yup, I think I'm good with all that. :)
I'll keep you posted as I start building (hopefully next week). Thanks.
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I also wanted you to be aware that when a board at the lumber yard is a 6'x12"x1" board, it's actual measurements are going to be 6'x11.5"x3/4". So, measure everything twice so you only have to cut once.
 
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