Stand Design Build 4x4 Cube

acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Curious to get an opinion from all the engineers out there as to what would be structurally sound for a 4x4 cube stand.....My objective is to have a totally open stand underneath without the interference from center support bracing in the front of the stand. With that said here is my idea!!!!!!!

I'm considering double laminated 2x6's or 2x8" all the way around the top perimeter of the stand and using 2x6's for the legs in each corner with cripple stud design (total of 16 legs). The stand will be wrapped in ply, but not sure exactly the finished look I'm trying to achieve at this point....Tank is going in my family room, so more than likely it will be finished to match the rest of the decor in the family room....
Throw some ideas out there for me!!!!!!!!
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Thanks Dave.....it's going to be an acrylic 48"Lx48"Wx24"or 30" H.....Haven't totally decided on the height as of yet.....
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Sorry tank is going to be constructed with 1" acrylic which is overbuilt by some peoples standards, but the extra thickness is for the external wave boxes on the left end of the tank.
 
al mc

al mc

Active Member
Personally I would use paired 2x10's and go with 4x4 at corners and in the cripple areas. The 2x10s will give you plenty of room for lag bolts from different directions in the corners.

I would also consider the 'glued' wood beams for your perimeter pieces.
 
chilwil84

chilwil84

Active Member
1.75 ldl (laminated dimentional lumber) 1.75 is the thickness fort the top edges , if you got one that matched a 2x12 height (11 5/8") and ripped it in half, with 2x4 corner nailed side to end making an L shaped corner will hold it fine. the company making the tank will prob want a support across the middle on the top to support the bottom of the tank also. i like putting 1/2 plywood on top with half 1/2 on the back and 1/4 on the side to prevent racking (the 1/2 on the back makes up for the fron having doors and less support. when you do the top you may want to look into sci's 180 build an incorporate the foam the way he did looks loike some nice insuurance for a little bit of work
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Sorry....guess I should have been a little clearer on what I was looking for......Thanks Al.....I was thinking 2x12's would be more than plenty, and have always used 4x4's for legs, but really overkill somewhat, and would never build a stand without lag bolts......
Chilwil84, I'm confused with your dimensional thickness of 1.75 for ldl lumber.....If each 2x6, 2x8 or 12 is 1 1/2 thick both combined with 1/2 ply bonded with gorilla glue between the 2 wouldn't the thickness then be 3 1/2". I'm by no means an engineer or structural person.....
As far as tank builder they only require 3/4" solid (1 piece) top, but they said even better you coud lay the first sheet and solidly attach it to the top of the stand and come back with a 2nd piece of ply and this is where you would apply your shimming between the 2 panels and then apply min 1/2" foam on top of that.....I'd never set a tank without foam.......I was very vague, but I know the requirement for supporting the tank under the bottom of the tank.....My real question is I'm trying to eliminate any type of leg support in the center of the front of the stand.......
I have to clarify that it will be somewhat inwall design with access really coming from behind the tank in the fishroom where the sump will be accessed from under the tank, where I don't want any middle down brace (leg). I see no point in having any access under the stand from the actual viewing area......but will be access to the top of the tank from the viewing area. I might have to sit and play with Sketch Up and post a drawing........
 
chilwil84

chilwil84

Active Member
ldl laminated dimentional lumber (microlam is a brand of ) is a plywood type lumber that comes in standard heights that match 2x6 on up to at least 18" wide boards (largest i have used in construction) they are designed to carry load on there side rather than verticle like a 2x4 or 2x6 so they can span a farther distance without needing support thus allowing you to have taller openings where your doors are. the 1.75 thickness is thicker than standard 2x material adding to its strength
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Originally Posted by chilwil84
ldl laminated dimentional lumber (microlam is a brand of ) is a plywood type lumber that comes in standard heights that match 2x6 on up to at least 18" wide boards (largest i have used in construction) they are designed to carry load on there side rather than verticle like a 2x4 or 2x6 so they can span a farther distance without needing support thus allowing you to have taller openings where your doors are. the 1.75 thickness is thicker than standard 2x material adding to its strength
Where can I check these out at?
 
chilwil84

chilwil84

Active Member
dont think hd or loews carries them but most lumber companies like 84 lumber or some local lumber company will carry them is some brand ask if the carry microlams, its made by the company level but has become a generic name many people use for the type of lumber it is
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Personally, I wouldn't go for the thick thick wood, honestly. It's only a 240 gallon. I would just use some standard 4x4's for the legs, 4x4's for the two boxes and slats, and 2x4's for the cross braces. I'de go with a doubled up plywood base. Have one base on the wood, a "floated" styrofoam middle and a nicely sanded birchwood top. I don't think that would leak at all, given time.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
4x4's are such a PITA, and finding nice straight ones can be a chore.....they are way overkill and miserable to notch the tops to carry the weight of the tank at that....I've always used 4x4's for legs just trying to get away from it.
 
misfit

misfit

Active Member
Why not just use 3/4 laminated plywood.If glued and screwed right you shouldnt need 4x4 etc to take up valuable space.look at the way store bought stands are made and there made out of crappy MDF.If you really wanted major strength IMO is way overkill glue 2 pieces of 3/4 together and that would be way stronger then a 2x6 or 2x8. because of the way the plywood is made They have different layers of wood all going in different directions compaired to a 2x4 etc which its grain is only going in one direction.
I used 3/4 on my stand which is holding a 210 with no problem.theres a thread somewhere in here with pics of it
 
chilwil84

chilwil84

Active Member
plywood isnt gonna get u out of a center brace in the middle without something strong behind it. 4x4s are desidned and at there strongest verticle not horizontal. with ldl almost yor entire front can be a door at ~4-5 inches tall with no brace
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
I'm going to try to get up early today to call 84 Lumber about the ldl.....I'm also going to talk to my buddy this weekend to see if he'd be willing to weld a stand and cost.
 
chilwil84

chilwil84

Active Member
metal stand are great if you go that way have him tack L brackets on it so you can hook a thin plywood skin on it without drilling the standitself. if you go wood make sure you ask them about leftover short lengths because when they cut big boards for builders they sometimes have 4-6 foot pieces left that end up laying around till they get tossed
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Yeah the tabs were already a thought on the metal stand.....still waiting to hear back from my friend Dave......If I go metal I'm going to have him fab up the stand for adjustable legs.....would make it super easy to level it up before putting tank in place.....
 
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